Led light design - TRAHMAS

Bignutes

Bignutes

Well-Known Member
My light design as follows:

TRAHMAS - Threaded rod aluminum heatsink modular adjustment simulator

30 sq ft space

The light:
960 watts
Lighting schedule is the "sun" (provided by my light) rises and sets, so my sunrise or sunset I can go down to about 2800k, rises to about 3600k by midday for 32 watts per sq ft max, this is for flower, for veg I can run this setup to go 2700k at sunrise/sunset and get to 4300k at midday for 15 watts per sq ft minimum. I transition to flower so its a mix during transition period.

Three 320 watt inventronics drivers - eud-320s320dt, these drivers are programmable and these simulate sunrise and sunset.

Vesta dual channel 2700k and 5000k - 2 footers x 32, good one and done strips for this as with drivers above they will adjust the current ratio applied to each channel to change cct.
2x - 4 parallel x 4 series for the 2700k channel for two of the 320 drivers, so 640 watts are applied to the 2700k for flowering
1x - 8 parallel x 4 series for the 5000k channel for one 320 watt driver so 320 watts are applied to the 5000k channel

The light build itself is modular, meaning I can build it, add on or subtract, shrink, expand, tear down, repurpose lighting components any way I see fit depending on my grow. Can also use part of it to dedicate to side lighting on one grow and go back to scrog from solely above on the next grow.

Start with the frame:
1.5x1.5x.188 aluminum angle
3/8" dia. ready rod
3/8" nuts

Pics to follow
 
Drill two holes on each end of heatsink, oversize holes so a 13/32 diameter bit.

Cut four foot lengths of readyrod and put nuts on ready rod with a drill and a rubber band, saves a bunch of time

This is my first build pics, it's a smaller 6.5 sq ft light but you get the picture
 

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Used wagos to connect wiring, 300 volt wire, on the first build being that I only had two parallel legs I installed fast blow fuses in case one leg went down. These are the red wiring harnesses. On my 4x8 build I didn't need these as I had more parallel legs to redistribute the current if one failed.
 

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I figured light is what plants take in for energy, ie their food, so if I gave them a variety in their diet with changing cct it would give them a better morphological expression, besides who wants to eat oatmeal everyday. Give it some stretch and some bushy growth that progressively happens everday. Its not something that I am going to live and die by, it's an experiment.
 
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First grow on this yielded 0.72 grams dried per watt, nothing was dialed in except the lighting schedule.

Temp gun at or near tc point on strip maxes out at 42 C running it at 50% of max recommended current
 
I wanted to take a caveman approach to this, I'm not a programmer so the raspberry pi and arduino were off limits, I just don't think like that so this is the easiest way to get that.

To note inventronics sells two devices that can convert any 0-10v driver to do the same simulation. Just need these two devices, download their software and your in business.

ttps://www.inventronics-co.com/product/tdd-anfn-xxxx/

Software is really easy to use, it's like an app with sliders and set points.
 
Bignutes said:
I wanted to take a caveman approach to this, I'm not a programmer so the raspberry pi and arduino were off limits, I just don't think like that so this is the easiest way to get that.

To note inventronics sells two devices that can convert any 0-10v driver to do the same simulation. Just need these two devices, download their software and your in business.

ttps://www.inventronics-co.com/product/tdd-anfn-xxxx/

Software is really easy to use, it's like an app with sliders and set points.
Click to expand...
To do what exactly?
 
I imagine this looking even better had you used heatsinkUSA profiles and just drilled a hole through all the fins. Same nuts to hold em in place..a picture really is worth 1000 words
 
Airwalker16 said:
I imagine this looking even better had you used heatsinkUSA profiles and just drilled a hole through all the fins. Same nuts to hold em in place..a picture really is worth 1000 words
Click to expand...

I bought the angle for $1.47 a foot, all toll for an 4x8 area the heat sinks cost $95. Going with 1.813" heat sinks from heatsinkusa would have cost me $840, would have been nice but not worth it.
 
Bignutes said:
I bought the angle for $1.47 a foot, all toll for an 4x8 area the heat sinks cost $95. Going with 1.813" heat sinks from heatsinkusa would have cost me $840, would have been nice but not worth it.
Click to expand...
Whoa that's crazy spendy. It'd still be Cool to see it done though, right?!
 
Bignutes said:
I bought the angle for $1.47 a foot, all toll for an 4x8 area the heat sinks cost $95. Going with 1.813" heat sinks from heatsinkusa would have cost me $840, would have been nice but not worth it.
Click to expand...
8 sinks of 1.813" at 24" long woulda only been $18.72 a piece. So $149. I wouldn't spent the extra 50 for arthritis and cooling needs.
 
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