Learning abou azomite

P

pollen205

Well-Known Member
Hy

Just learning about azomite and have 3 big question

1. Can I burn my plant with azomite..
2. Do I start my seedlings with soil ammenmend with azomite or just in final soil
3.azomite have 70 minerale.. . Just wondering is there some minerala in it That cannabis dont like..
Mercury is That what caught my eye...

:)
 
Booyah!

Booyah!

Well-Known Member
I quit using Azomite. Much cleaner rock dusts out there. Glacial Rock Dust and Basalt are two very nice ones that would more than replace Azomite.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
Booyah! said:
I quit using Azomite. Much cleaner rock dusts out there. Glacial Rock Dust and Basalt are two very nice ones that would more than replace Azomite.
Click to expand...
Just the opposite here, I quit using "Hard rock" dust like those mentioned ^^ and now use just Azomite and Greensand for minerals. They have shown to work best for me and my environment.

For Booyah!, other RD works better in his environment. Both of us are right in our choices. and neither wrong.

OP: Go to the Azomite web site, there is a good amount of info for your questions and make an informed decision. They have detailed breakdowns and application rates.

Wet
 
P

pollen205

Well-Known Member
Reading alot on net about it and read That i can get aluminium toxicity... Wtf

Really want to be healthy and this by the name that it sounds.. Omg

Do I have option to buy some mix minerals without aluminum at all and if yes what brand
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
pollen205 said:
Reading alot on net about it and read That i can get aluminium toxicity... Wtf

Really want to be healthy and this by the name that it sounds.. Omg

Do I have option to buy some mix minerals without aluminum at all and if yes what brand
Click to expand...
Humic acid helps with heavy metals. I'm currently researching it and trying to get a more in depth understanding about it. It will help chelate minerals and detoxify heavy metals.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
pollen205 said:
Reading alot on net about it and read That i can get aluminium toxicity... Wtf

Really want to be healthy and this by the name that it sounds.. Omg

Do I have option to buy some mix minerals without aluminum at all and if yes what brand
Click to expand...
Not really, Al is the 3rd most abundant element after oxygen and silicon and it is in pretty much everything. Next to impossible to avoid it, but it is also nearly inert in soil and rocks but not quite.

For it to release in soil to be toxic that soil would have to be extremely acidic (well under 5.0 pH), which would likely kill the plant on it's own since canna and most plants prefer a pH of ~6.5 to 7.0. A well buffered and limed soil pretty much eliminates this scenario from the git go.

Excessive use of humic acids can also cause it to release, like having adequate HA in your soil and then adding concentrated HA such as the BioAg product on top of that.. Ends up being too much of a good thing.

To make things simple, Humic acid is the stuff that turns your water brown when it's added. Worm castings and finished compost are good examples of this and either will provide all the HA needed.

It's very simple in practice and very difficult to explain unless you have a degree in organic chemestry. LOL I do know from experience, that VC from my worm bins provides plenty of HA. Using HumiSolve from BioAg in addition to the castings pushed it into the *too much* catagory even with light applications. I still have most of the bag left.

HTH some.

Wet
 
P

pollen205

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
Not really, Al is the 3rd most abundant element after oxygen and silicon and it is in pretty much everything. Next to impossible to avoid it, but it is also nearly inert in soil and rocks but not quite.

For it to release in soil to be toxic that soil would have to be extremely acidic (well under 5.0 pH), which would likely kill the plant on it's own since canna and most plants prefer a pH of ~6.5 to 7.0. A well buffered and limed soil pretty much eliminates this scenario from the git go.

Excessive use of humic acids can also cause it to release, like having adequate HA in your soil and then adding concentrated HA such as the BioAg product on top of that.. Ends up being too much of a good thing.

To make things simple, Humic acid is the stuff that turns your water brown when it's added. Worm castings and finished compost are good examples of this and either will provide all the HA needed.

It's very simple in practice and very difficult to explain unless you have a degree in organic chemestry. LOL I do know from experience, that VC from my worm bins provides plenty of HA. Using HumiSolve from BioAg in addition to the castings pushed it into the *too much* catagory even with light applications. I still have most of the bag left.

HTH some.

Wet
Click to expand...
Thank you for time that you spend writing this...
But I fucking dont understand...
Can you please tell me do you use azomite or not simple as that...
 
E

elephantSea

Well-Known Member
I reuse dirt. Therefore, every now and then I need to re-mineralize. There are a variety of options for this. One of them is Azomite. If you're growing in new, store bought dirt - you don't need the azomite.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
pollen205 said:
Thank you for time that you spend writing this...
But I fucking dont understand...
Can you please tell me do you use azomite or not simple as that...
Click to expand...

I did in my first reply above. Perhaps you should read a bit closer. It was in the very first paragraph.

I now use only azomite and greensand for my mineral needs and no longer bother with hard rock dusts like basalt or granite.

I add both at the rate of 1cup/cf.

Wet
 
P

pollen205

Well-Known Member
elephantSea said:
I reuse dirt. Therefore, every now and then I need to re-mineralize. There are a variety of options for this. One of them is Azomite. If you're growing in new, store bought dirt - you don't need the azomite.
Click to expand...
Really here in europe we dont have that fox farm, bigrootz and soil like that...
The best that I find is klasman potground h
So really want to get that extra for my soil...
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
pollen205 said:
Thank you for time that you spend writing this...
But I fucking dont understand...
Can you please tell me do you use azomite or not simple as that...
Click to expand...
It's hard to find a good source of Manganese(not magnesium) and Azomite has a good amount of Mn along with zinc. It seems like I cannot find a better source of trace minerals. From my soil tests, basalt just gives you a good boost of Mg. You might get more from it if you reuse your soil for years? The only way that I would stress the high amounts of Al is if someone showed me a plant tissue test that had abnormally high amounts of aluminum.

I understand the scare about aluminum and I felt the same way about it. It is probably some crap theory that started in a pot forum like this one. Anyways, it might be best to compost it or make gro-kashi with it because I heard that both ways will help with toxic heavy metals.
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
Excessive use of humic acids can also cause it to release
Click to expand...
I would like to know where you read this at because I'm trying to learn about this current subject right now.
Wetdog said:
like having adequate HA in your soil and then adding concentrated HA such as the BioAg product on top of that.. Ends up being too much of a good thing.
Click to expand...
Right, Dr. Faust said that humic acid can be toxic and fulvic acid would only accelerate a deficiency problem.
Wetdog said:
To make things simple, Humic acid is the stuff that turns your water brown when it's added. Worm castings and finished compost are good examples of this and either will provide all the HA needed.

It's very simple in practice and very difficult to explain unless you have a degree in organic chemestry. LOL I do know from experience, that VC from my worm bins provides plenty of HA. Using HumiSolve from BioAg in addition to the castings pushed it into the *too much* catagory even with light applications. I still have most of the bag left.
Click to expand...
How old are your worm castings or compost? If yours is over 2yrs old, then you should have plenty of humic acid. I started my worm bin in Nov 2017 and the leaves are still pretty red looking, I used mostly leaves and this stuff looks like it is going to take forever to break down. However, I do have some good fungal growth. I was thinking about using a small amount of humic acid in the worm bin. From what Dr. Faust said about using it on farm soil, the worms were attracted to HA. He also said that it takes compost about 2yrs to start producing humic acid. I think that my compost is going to take longer than 2yrs from the looks of it. It's going so slow... Next time, I am going to run the leaves through the chipper after pick them up with the lawn mower. The grass that I picked up with it is long gone.
DSC01128.JPG
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
Excessive use of humic acids can also cause it to release
Click to expand...
Do you know what it is supposed to release? I'm aware that it releases the bond between calcium and phosphorus and it makes phosphorus more available, but I wanted to know if there was more to it. I've been trying to figure out how to remove the high levels of P in compost and apparently, I just wasn't aging it long enough. I would use compost as soon as it would pass through my screen. Dr. Faust said that humic acid is not understood much like how vitimin C was to scurvy. He said that Department of Agriculture refuses to acknowledge humic acid is important for food crops. So, not much is really known about humic acid and Universities don't teach it in school. That makes Dr. Faust the leading researcher on humic acid, much like how Paul Stamets is to fungi.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
I would like to know where you read this at because I'm trying to learn about this current subject right now.

Right, Dr. Faust said that humic acid can be toxic and fulvic acid would only accelerate a deficiency problem.
Click to expand...
There is a 4YO thread over at GCO titled Azomite and Aluminum toxicity that covered the whole thing pretty well. A good amount of links to studies that get kinda technical real quick and even comments from BioAg's Dr. Faust in the links IIRC.

I bumped it up so it's on the first page & easy to find. The main gist seems centered mostly on over application of humic and fulvic acid. The links are great, but most were way over my head with me not having an advanced degree in organic chemistry, but they are all in one spot. Information overload. LOL

My worm bins were started in 2010 and been in operation ever since. IDK about adding humic acid to the bin, but the worms sure as hell produce it and the worms have been my source of humic acid for many years. Fulvic acid also since it is a component of humic acid.

The thread is a good read in itself (only 2 pages), and the links provide all sorts of rabbit holes to go down.

Enjoy !!

Wet
 
MustangStudFarm

MustangStudFarm

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
I now use only azomite and greensand for my mineral needs and no longer bother with hard rock dusts like basalt or granite.
Click to expand...
Have you came across glacial rock dust that was micronized like azomite? I had it before, but this last bag that I bought looks identical to basalt. I wonder if someone mislabeled the bag or something? Anyways, I just bought my first big bag of Greensand. Have you seen micronized greensand? I used the Texas stuff the first time and it seemed to have the consistency of sand, but I think that this one is going to be a ground powder?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077S3NS2T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
ShLUbY

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Have you came across glacial rock dust that was micronized like azomite? I had it before, but this last bag that I bought looks identical to basalt. I wonder if someone mislabeled the bag or something? Anyways, I just bought my first big bag of Greensand. Have you seen micronized greensand? I used the Texas stuff the first time and it seemed to have the consistency of sand, but I think that this one is going to be a ground powder?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077S3NS2T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...
the stuff i get from organically done is quite micronized
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
MustangStudFarm said:
Have you came across glacial rock dust that was micronized like azomite? I had it before, but this last bag that I bought looks identical to basalt. I wonder if someone mislabeled the bag or something? Anyways, I just bought my first big bag of Greensand. Have you seen micronized greensand? I used the Texas stuff the first time and it seemed to have the consistency of sand, but I think that this one is going to be a ground powder?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077S3NS2T/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...
I get all my stuff like that from Planet Natural, in fact the same greensand you linked to. But it's on sale now for ~$32, the same 44lb bag. Azomite is on sale for just over $17 for a 44lb bag.

I do believe both are micronized and both look like a pic of basalt that PN has a pic of. Micronized feels more like fine powder rather than anything gritty like sand. IIRC, the azomite web site said the very fine powder is for use in irrigation systems.

No, nothing has been mislabeled, those 3 things come from 3 different places and it seems everything ground that fine becomes that grayish color/hue. Azomite comes from one particular volcano in Utah and the best greensand (what you linked to), comes from NJ. Basalt is way more common than either of the other 2.

Give Planet Natural a look see sometime. I've found that they have the highest quality and lowest prices online. I get everythin but my kelp meal from there and that's only because the national distributor for Thorvin kelp is in Va., a couple hundred miles from me in SC.

Wet
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top