Leaf problems, is it magnesium deficiency?

mushroomcookiedough

mushroomcookiedough

Active Member
Have 4 plants doing pretty much fantastic in their environment. (24-26c, 65-75% rH, Light Grow Mix + Sensi Grow&Bloom).

I have 3 different strains (all autoflowers) and they have all started showing some similar symptoms.
I am thinking it is magnesium deficiency, as I have been trying to not overdo it with nutrients.

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mushroomcookiedough

mushroomcookiedough

Active Member
Iricana said:
I am having a similar problem with mine as well. Here is a link I read within here ( https://www.rollitup.org/t/plant-moisture-stress-symptoms-and-solutions.150004/ ) that could help. I am in dwc with good e/c and ph yet can't figure out the issue. Wonder if this is an auto issue...??
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Humidity might be the problem, I think the humidity at the moment is averaging 65-75%, so I should probably lower it towards 50%
Might also be the lighting? Too much perhaps... I am using 4 light sources all around the plant, so the average is 40-50k LUX on all corners of the plants...
 
Merlin1147

Merlin1147

Well-Known Member
mushroomcookiedough said:
Humidity might be the problem, I think the humidity at the moment is averaging 65-75%, so I should probably lower it towards 50%
Might also be the lighting? Too much perhaps... I am using 4 light sources all around the plant, so the average is 40-50k LUX on all corners of the plants...
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If It were light damage you’d think it would be on the leaves closest to the lights. I’m thinking calcium maybe from the high humidity. Ca moves in the xylem and sometimes has a hard time getting where it needs to go with poor transpiration. The white tips are an indication. Not burnt like you would see with high fertilizer just white.
what are your temps? Either lower the Rh or bump the temp a few degrees
 
mushroomcookiedough

mushroomcookiedough

Active Member
Merlin1147 said:
If It were light damage you’d think it would be on the leaves closest to the lights. I’m thinking calcium maybe from the high humidity. Ca moves in the xylem and sometimes has a hard time getting where it needs to go with poor transpiration. The white tips are an indication. Not burnt like you would see with high fertilizer just white.
what are your temps? Either lower the Rh or bump the temp a few degrees
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Alright, gonna try to lower rh about 20%, temps are about 25c stable, so pretty ideal for autos. I think I'll give them an extra boost of noots too...

Thanks for the advice,
 
Kaotic

Kaotic

Well-Known Member
mushroomcookiedough said:
Have 4 plants doing pretty much fantastic in their environment. (24-26c, 65-75% rH, Light Grow Mix + Sensi Grow&Bloom).

I have 3 different strains (all autoflowers) and they have all started showing some similar symptoms.
I am thinking it is magnesium deficiency, as I have been trying to not overdo it with nutrients.

View attachment 4705076View attachment 4705077View attachment 4705075View attachment 4705073View attachment 4705074View attachment 4705072
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Calmag deficiency, it may be magnesium, I think she needs some Is my guess.
plants look healthy and no leaf tip burn from what I see..
 
Trickyticky

Trickyticky

Well-Known Member
I would inject them with a little cal/mag 1mil per litre.
Also as above says , lower ya humidity a touch .
Also like above says . If was light then would show on new growth closest to the light . Aya in soil ? If so then stop ph'ing ya inflow that could be contributing as a good soil medium will have ph buffers
 
D

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
Surprised you keep your lights so high. Most people have mag problems when their pH is off. As long as you are using good nutes and good tap water then it's all about pH and environment.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
I think it's a pH related issue. If you have a reliable soil pH tester see what it says. The cheap analog ones with the long thin metal probe are useless. If you can't afford a good one like the Blue Lab soil pen then you hay want to get some of the soil pH test chemicals that will give you a ballpark.
 
mushroomcookiedough

mushroomcookiedough

Active Member
Kaotic said:
Calmag deficiency, it may be magnesium, I think she needs some Is my guess.
plants look healthy and no leaf tip burn from what I see..
Click to expand...
Trickyticky said:
I would inject them with a little cal/mag 1mil per litre.
Also as above says , lower ya humidity a touch .
Also like above says . If was light then would show on new growth closest to the light . Aya in soil ? If so then stop ph'ing ya inflow that could be contributing as a good soil medium will have ph buffers
Click to expand...
I have given them some extra noots now!


Star Dog said:
For the benift of those who don't know wtf light grow mix is, is it soil?
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Light grow mix is basically soil which is lightly fertilized. Basically, it has quite a bit of nutrients in it, but not enough for the lifespan of the plant, so after 2-5 weeks of growing (from seedling) you need to start adding nutrients. Light mix is usually pre-mixed with perlite, and as its name implies, the soil is quite "light". It isn't heavy, so it gives the roots more breathing room. :)


DaFreak said:
Surprised you keep your lights so high. Most people have mag problems when their pH is off. As long as you are using good nutes and good tap water then it's all about pH and environment.
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I usually only use one of these lights, but this time I had a few extra to spare, so I moved the top light a few inches away and added 3 more lights surrounding it. Total power draw is around 600w (pure LED). But you would put the lights closer? I guess I could try, as they don't seem to be getting burnt.

Renfro said:
I think it's a pH related issue. If you have a reliable soil pH tester see what it says. The cheap analog ones with the long thin metal probe are useless. If you can't afford a good one like the Blue Lab soil pen then you hay want to get some of the soil pH test chemicals that will give you a ballpark.
Click to expand...
I am getting a reliable soil pH tester next week (cost around 200 bucks). But the soil I use has had good levels previously, and the water source here has perfect pH for growing, so I highly doubt it is a pH problem, as the pH has been perfect perviously.
 
D

DaFreak

Well-Known Member
mushroomcookiedough said:
I have given them some extra noots now!




Light grow mix is basically soil which is lightly fertilized. Basically, it has quite a bit of nutrients in it, but not enough for the lifespan of the plant, so after 2-5 weeks of growing (from seedling) you need to start adding nutrients. Light mix is usually pre-mixed with perlite, and as its name implies, the soil is quite "light". It isn't heavy, so it gives the roots more breathing room. :)




I usually only use one of these lights, but this time I had a few extra to spare, so I moved the top light a few inches away and added 3 more lights surrounding it. Total power draw is around 600w (pure LED). But you would put the lights closer? I guess I could try, as they don't seem to be getting burnt.



I am getting a reliable soil pH tester next week (cost around 200 bucks). But the soil I use has had good levels previously, and the water source here has perfect pH for growing, so I highly doubt it is a pH problem, as the pH has been perfect perviously.
Click to expand...
I use 600 led cob and I keep mine 18 inches away.
 
Kaotic

Kaotic

Well-Known Member
Kaotic said:
Calmag deficiency, it may be magnesium, I think she needs some Is my guess.
plants look healthy and no leaf tip burn from what I see..
Click to expand...
I also
mushroomcookiedough said:
Have 4 plants doing pretty much fantastic in their environment. (24-26c, 65-75% rH, Light Grow Mix + Sensi Grow&Bloom).

I have 3 different strains (all autoflowers) and they have all started showing some similar symptoms.
I am thinking it is magnesium deficiency, as I have been trying to not overdo it with nutrients.

View attachment 4705076View attachment 4705077View attachment 4705075View attachment 4705073View attachment 4705074View attachment 4705072
Click to expand...
Neutral ph water and light feeding requires no ph’ing of the water period. For organic soil at least.
 
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