Kind Sir Organics

I wanted to start fresh, as I got lost in an amendment daze (AD) and had to refocus on my EWC. I made a batch of soil with what I had on hand last night. Will be documenting my worm bin here as well.

Base:
Sphagnum peat moss (30%)
Compost(30%)
Perlite/Red Lava Rock (40%)
About 2Cups Vermiculite

Per Cu Ft
Kelp meal: 3/4Cup
Alfalfa meal: 1\8Cup
Fish bone meal: 1/2 - 3/4 Cup
Crab shell meal: 3/4Cup
Peruvian seabird guano: 1Tablespoon
Diameticous Earth: 1/8Cup
Xtremegardening Mykos: 2 Tablespoon (Just to try it out)

Oyster shell flour: 3/4 - 1Cup
Glacial rock dust: 2.25 - 2.5Cups

I am waiting to buy neem from neemresource, and a fes other items. FinanciAlly cant atm.





Compost Description:
Purple Cow Organics Activated Compost With MicroLife is a scientifically formulated, tested, and certified premium compost - vermicompost based product. It delivers a full-range of benefits, along with metabolic building blocks to enrich and enliven your soil's foodweb. Purple Cow is formulated beginning with composted leaves and alfalfa fiber. Alfalfa contains a naturally-occurring plant hormone; triacontanol, that research has proven to promote root growth. During the composting process of Purple Cow, beneficial "soil foods", including greensand, rock dusts, and kelp meal stimulate a diversity of microorganisms along with adding macro and micronutrients. Kelp contains growth hormones, auxins, cytokines, and gibberellins, which increase root development substantially. Finally, MicroLife, Purple Cow's own blend of vermicompost worm castings, is added for final activation of the product. Purple Cow supplies beneficial microorganisms and organic humus to the growing media of soil, harmoniously enhancing your soil's biology and making nutrients more available for plant uptake. Purple Cow improves soil structure and porosity, creating a better plant root environment, resulting in a healthier plant overall.

That compost sounds like the dogs bollocks or purple bulls........lol

Don't put the mykos in your soil mix, it'll just be food for other organisms, use it to dust roots or planting hole on transplant, they need a living host/root to germinate(?) and survive (I am just repeating others advice here, but it's what I've always done because the instructions, on the packet I use, say to do so)

Veg: 4ft 8bulb T5HO/Also have 105W CFL if needed.
Flower: 600W HPS W/ Hood -Hortilux Eye Bulb

Projects:

1. Build a Biochar "furance?" or atleast make some
2. Start a compost bin
3. Clone my Aloe, confirm what supplemental plants Ill be growing.


Questions :
I dont feed my worm bin very often, once a week usually. Im going to start feeding more often now, but I found a couple black bugs (size of an ant.) I read they could be beneficial, the bin is in an unused bathroom so I doubt the bugs found their way there but who knows.

I want to start a second bin, how should I do that? Just use worms from my current bin correct?

DonBrennon said:

That compost sounds like the dogs bollocks or purple bulls........lol

Don't put the mykos in your soil mix, it'll just be food for other organisms, use it to dust roots or planting hole on transplant, they need a living host/root to germinate(?) and survive (I am just repeating others advice here, but it's what I've always done because the instructions, on the packet I use, say to do so)

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yes, this is totally correct.
Mycos are not transient, and in the world of microbes.. they are easily edible, specifically trichodermas and the larger microbes. Must have physical contact with the roots to work and propagate.

Kind Sir said:

I wanted to start fresh, as I got lost in an amendment daze (AD) and had to refocus on my EWC. I made a batch of soil with what I had on hand last night. Will be documenting my worm bin here as well.

Base:
Sphagnum peat moss (30%)
Compost(30%)
Perlite/Red Lava Rock (40%)
About 2Cups Vermiculite

Per Cu Ft
Kelp meal: 3/4Cup
Alfalfa meal: 1\8Cup
Fish bone meal: 1/2 - 3/4 Cup
Crab shell meal: 3/4Cup
Peruvian seabird guano: 1Tablespoon
Diameticous Earth: 1/8Cup
Xtremegardening Mykos: 2 Tablespoon (Just to try it out)

Oyster shell flour: 3/4 - 1Cup
Glacial rock dust: 2.25 - 2.5Cups

Click to expand...

One thing i'd like to use in a mix like this is a bit more nitrogen.
you're a lil light on the nutrients, but I like that you are using a lot of that "pimp" compost.. being alfalfa and leaf based
Still.. the crab meal has nitrogen in it, but not for a while, the seabird has it too, but you aren't using much of that. the alfalfa is all you have, and at 1/8 a cup, that's simply not enough, in my opinion.
I'd LOVE to see a half cup of fish meal in this, that would round off a NICE mix.
OR bump the seabirdguano, to a half cup..
I just don't like the solubility of the guano for a mix, it's awesome for topdresses or teas though.
You just end up washing a bit of it away

That's a good mix as is though, it just may run a bit shy on the nitrogen towards the end.
Hard to say though, that compost may give ya enough boost.
is there a NPK rating for the compost?
probably like a .5/.25/.35 or something?

DonBrennon said:

That compost sounds like the dogs bollocks or purple bulls........lol

Don't put the mykos in your soil mix, it'll just be food for other organisms, use it to dust roots or planting hole on transplant, they need a living host/root to germinate(?) and survive (I am just repeating others advice here, but it's what I've always done because the instructions, on the packet I use, say to do so)

Click to expand...

I didnt see your response buddy sorry! Ya greasey told me that a little while back, I saw on the back of my mykos package and it suggests you put like "1lb mykos per 4Cu ft" or so, so I added about a tablespoon just cuz. But youre right, thank you.

greasemonkeymann said:

yes, this is totally correct.
Mycos are not transient, and in the world of microbes.. they are easily edible, specifically trichodermas and the larger microbes. Must have physical contact with the roots to work and propagate.

One thing i'd like to use in a mix like this is a bit more nitrogen.
you're a lil light on the nutrients, but I like that you are using a lot of that "pimp" compost.. being alfalfa and leaf based
Still.. the crab meal has nitrogen in it, but not for a while, the seabird has it too, but you aren't using much of that. the alfalfa is all you have, and at 1/8 a cup, that's simply not enough, in my opinion.
I'd LOVE to see a half cup of fish meal in this, that would round off a NICE mix.
OR bump the seabirdguano, to a half cup..
I just don't like the solubility of the guano for a mix, it's awesome for topdresses or teas though.
You just end up washing a bit of it away

That's a good mix as is though, it just may run a bit shy on the nitrogen towards the end.
Hard to say though, that compost may give ya enough boost.
is there a NPK rating for the compost?
probably like a .5/.25/.35 or something?

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It says .70-.30-.30.

Im going to add a little more alfalfa when I get home?
I have fish BONE meal not regular fish meal tho, I need to grab a few items. Thanks for the reponse man.

Kind Sir said:

It says .70-.30-.30.

Im going to add a little more alfalfa when I get home?
I have fish BONE meal not regular fish meal tho, I need to grab a few items. Thanks for the reponse man.

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hmm, that's some potent stuff my man
your recipe may be fine as is then.
I would recommend neem though, it's got a lot of those micronutrients, and trace elements that others don't
Sulfur in particular..
sulfur is your buddy just in trace amounts

greasemonkeymann said:

hmm, that's some potent stuff my man
your recipe may be fine as is then.
I would recommend neem though, it's got a lot of those micronutrients, and trace elements that others don't
Sulfur in particular..
sulfur is your buddy just in trace amounts

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Ya Ive heard alot about sulfur lately, neem is my #1 priority but Im getting a couple bucks together to order through neemresource.

If I have a nitrogen def in the future, I can easily handle it Id assume? Do a little topdress, Im trying to make sure I dont add TOO MUCH like you said you can't take away, but always add.

Thanks again, grease.

Kind Sir said:

Ya Ive heard alot about sulfur lately, neem is my #1 priority but Im getting a couple bucks together to order through neemresource.

If I have a nitrogen def in the future, I can easily handle it Id assume? Do a little topdress, Im trying to make sure I dont add TOO MUCH like you said you can't take away, but always add.

Thanks again, grease.

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EXACTLY... like I said, with that rich of a compost, i'd leave it as is.
That's some good compost.
Speaking of.. so is there NO cow manure in it?
reason I ask is manure has sulfur in it..
not sure if guanos do or not..
if you can find gypsum, that has sulfur too
hmmmm

Kind Sir said:

Ya Ive heard alot about sulfur lately, neem is my #1 priority but Im getting a couple bucks together to order through neemresource.

If I have a nitrogen def in the future, I can easily handle it Id assume? Do a little topdress, Im trying to make sure I dont add TOO MUCH like you said you can't take away, but always add.

Thanks again, grease.

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interesting...
just read some information on high phosphorus bat guanos.. evidently some are naturally loaded with calcium as well as sulfur due to the caves material, specifically limestone
Interesting shit though... bat guano as a calcium and sulfur source is pretty cool.
here's where I found the information
http://sofertam.com/bat guano/types of guano.html

I didnt realize ykj

greasemonkeymann said:

interesting...
just read some information on high phosphorus bat guanos.. evidently some are naturally loaded with calcium as well as sulfur due to the caves material, specifically limestone
Interesting shit though... bat guano as a calcium and sulfur source is pretty cool.
here's where I found the information
http://sofertam.com/bat guano/types of guano.html

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I didnt realize you posted! The only source I have is on the bag, and it says the same thing as I copy and pasted. The purple cow name is misleading, they have a few different items that I want to buy. I used to live RIGHT DOWN THE ROAD from purple cow HQ before I started growing, shucks.

Yes I am looking into adding some sulfur into my mix. I want to add a few items (a separate batch) in the next 2 weeks due to financial reasons.

Not limited to...

Neem seed meal - Neemresource (Was it you who stated karanja was pretty much the same?)
Gypsum
Rotten wood chunks/leaf mold(Courteously suggested by you)
Change out perlite/red lava for rice hulls/pumice/red lava
Comfrey
Homemade EWC soon

I understand theyre selling guano, but it sure sounds good. Silicon and sulfur sound good to me
Questions when you get to your computer.

1. I use a 27gal tote for my worm bin. Started it with 1k reds, and ended up with about 4in bedding (cardboard, newspaper, egg cartons, soil/sphagnum)
Feeding is simple but.
-what else and how often do you add these items? Amendments for example.
-my bin is indoors but I saw a few black walking bugs the size of a small small ant? Couldnt find 100% replica online.

Last question.
I have a shitty air pump/ W stone the store lied about. I asked if it could do 5gal aact,but not even close. What do you think I should do to properly make aact until I grab my new pump?
Heres my granny pump
https://www.hydroponics.net/i/132910

Archipelago bat guano on eBay, used inside and out, marigolds and begonias love it! Been using about ten years. Did I miss dolomite in your mix? Another calcium source especially if you recycle is soft rock phosphate.

hillbill said:

Archipelago bat guano on eBay, used inside and out, marigolds and begonias love it! Been using about ten years. Did I miss dolomite in your mix? Another calcium source especially if you recycle is soft rock phosphate.

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yea, he could, he does have oyster flour and crab meal though, those are good sources, i'd say a good thing to add would be gypsum.
It'd get him that sulfur as well as a bit more on keeping the ph in check.
poor mans choice could be going to a construction site and getting a handful of sheetrock.. pulverizing a cup or two of it.
that's gypsum

Kind Sir said:

I understand theyre selling guano, but it sure sounds good. Silicon and sulfur sound good to me
Questions when you get to your computer.

1. I use a 27gal tote for my worm bin. Started it with 1k reds, and ended up with about 4in bedding (cardboard, newspaper, egg cartons, soil/sphagnum)
Feeding is simple but.
-what else and how often do you add these items? Amendments for example.
-my bin is indoors but I saw a few black walking bugs the size of a small small ant? Couldnt find 100% replica online.

Last question.
I have a shitty air pump/ W stone the store lied about. I asked if it could do 5gal aact,but not even close. What do you think I should do to properly make aact until I grab my new pump?
Heres my granny pump
https://www.hydroponics.net/i/132910

Click to expand...

Ahh well, that pump probably couldn't do much more than maybe a half gallon properly, and even still it'd have to be like in a vase or something where it'll all get agitated enough.
You sure you need to do an AACT? With your soil's ingredients it's gonna be LOADED with microbes man.
And I don't really feed my worms amendments in the traditional sense, just fruits, but fruits are nutrients, for sure, a fruit based vermicast i'd suspect to be rather high in nutrients
I suppose you could lean your wormbin more towards a nitrogen mix, giving more greens, and veggies
but that's 100% speculation, I've never had my castings testing for their content.
Would be a cool experiment to get two bins and feed them totally differently, just to see if the end result is changed at all..
As far as feeding the worms, I feed them as the eat, so if it's cold, and I uncover last weeks food and it's still has some residue, I wait a day or two, but if it's warm? you can feed pretty often, but I got a metric fuck-ton of worms in my bin, natives too, and the natives really like fruit.
I can get them to go through a lb of rotted fruit a week in 40 deg weather
three times that in the summer, and I feel I don't even push them.. I bet I could do way more if I wanted

hillbill said:

Archipelago bat guano on eBay, used inside and out, marigolds and begonias love it! Been using about ten years. Did I miss dolomite in your mix? Another calcium source especially if you recycle is soft rock phosphate.

Click to expand...

No you didnt miss anything. I only use (due to money issues)
Crab shell, oyster shell flour, and after greasemonkey showed me the bat guano thread, my guano might have calcium? ( ;

greasemonkeymann said:

Ahh well, that pump probably couldn't do much more than maybe a half gallon properly, and even still it'd have to be like in a vase or something where it'll all get agitated enough.
You sure you need to do an AACT? With your soil's ingredients it's gonna be LOADED with microbes man.
And I don't really feed my worms amendments in the traditional sense, just fruits, but fruits are nutrients, for sure, a fruit based vermicast i'd suspect to be rather high in nutrients
I suppose you could lean your wormbin more towards a nitrogen mix, giving more greens, and veggies
but that's 100% speculation, I've never had my castings testing for their content.
Would be a cool experiment to get two bins and feed them totally differently, just to see if the end result is changed at all..
As far as feeding the worms, I feed them as the eat, so if it's cold, and I uncover last weeks food and it's still has some residue, I wait a day or two, but if it's warm? you can feed pretty often, but I got a metric fuck-ton of worms in my bin, natives too, and the natives really like fruit.
I can get them to go through a lb of rotted fruit a week in 40 deg weather
three times that in the summer, and I feel I don't even push them.. I bet I could do way more if I wanted

Click to expand...

I dont know if I need aact, Id rather not buy a new pump right now anyway! Just trying to do this right, especially since its the first run with tbis soil.

I only feed my worms fruits, (no leftover veggie) mainly thawed strawberries,bananas. I saw some people add amendments to their worm bin, thats why I ask. I added a little crab shell, oyster shell, glacial rock dust and a handful of my compost to help microbes (thought itd help.)

I have alot to learn still obviously. Thanks for all your help.

Kind Sir said:

No you didnt miss anything. I only use (due to money issues)
Crab shell, oyster shell flour, and after greasemonkey showed me the bat guano thread, my guano might have calcium? ( ;

Click to expand...

I forgot to mention, you said you were possibly wanting to add rice hulls to your mix, you can but keep in mind they'll degrade pretty quick, like probably in two runs, or 6 months or so. So if you do so, i'd add them in addition to what you'd normally want.
lava rock, pumice, biochar are good longterm aeration, rotted tree chunk slowly get smaller over time (my theory is something is nibbling on them, microbial wise), rice hulls go quickly, perlite lasts long but separates from the media over time.
getting your comfrey going will give you all the calcium you'll need by the way.

Kind Sir said:

I dont know if I need aact, Id rather not buy a new pump right now anyway! Just trying to do this right, especially since its the first run with tbis soil.

I only feed my worms fruits, (no leftover veggie) mainly thawed strawberries,bananas. I saw some people add amendments to their worm bin, thats why I ask. I added a little crab shell, oyster shell, glacial rock dust and a handful of my compost to help microbes (thought itd help.)

I have alot to learn still obviously. Thanks for all your help.

Click to expand...

I built my AACT brewer because it seemed like I was always running out of EWC! I bought 30gal of castings on craigslist and did a proper top-dressing, and there is no comparison, top-dressing is SO much better! Maybe I am doing something wrong, but I doubt it!
I am looking into building my own cheap worm bins. I bought a couple of the worm farms last year, but they are over $100 each!

Kind Sir said:

No you didnt miss anything. I only use (due to money issues)
Crab shell, oyster shell flour, and after greasemonkey showed me the bat guano thread, my guano might have calcium? ( ;

Click to expand...

Quick question, what region of the US are you in, growing zone?

The 'money issues' thing is kinda BS if you are passing up locally sourced equivalents and paying big $$$ to ship *designer* amendments.

Pretty much, stuff like Oyster shell flour, fish meal (any type), crab/crustacean meal, etc., are only available "locally" in the PNW and close to the left coast. Great, if that's where you live, not so great if it has to be shipped.

Oyster shell flour is a prime example. The product itself is cheap, ~$9 - $12/40-50lb bag. To ship it is in the $40 neighborhood. Local to me is calcitic lime (a 1 to 1 equivalent), for ~$15 for the same amount. It's not rocket science to figure out the cost/benefit ratio between $49 and $15 for chemically equivalent products.

Bone meal here is right at $1/lb. Never priced the fish bone just knowing it would never be that cheap and I have yet to hear of any health issues arising from its use. You know, THAT would make the news. Nor from blood meal, but that seldom gets used now, being replaced with soy meal for a high N, slow release application.

Just saying, there is a literal shit ton of cheaper alternatives that bring exactly the same benefit to the table. Finding them just takes a bit of research and experience will show just how well they work, or don't.

I did the same thing you're doing till it became apparent I couldn't afford to keep doing it with shipping being so expensive. So, don't feel like the Lone Ranger here. LOL

The worst was rock dust. Paid $30 for 10lbs of basalt (IIRC), and then later found granite dust locally for $5/5gallon bucket. You supply the bucket and shovel. Weighed ~60-70lbs.

Now, pretty much the only bulk items that are worth the shipping are neem cake and kelp meal. Both are just north of $40 for shipping and both are worth the added expense IMO.

Worms: Feed as the food is consumed. Like GMM, I may only feed once/month in the winter and 2-3x that much when things warm up. If you can see food, they don't need any more. I do a 'lasagna' type deal with peat based bedding, adding ~1" of bedding when the food is consumed. Then, more food on top of the fresh bedding and repeat the whole thing. Ends up ~14"+ deep by harvest time. I do add some amendments to the bedding "just because", but don't keep adding them. I find worms from top to bottom giving lie to the 'they only stay near the surface' line. Your 4" depth seems a bit shallow, but experience will guide you in that area with YOUR set up.

HTH some.

Wet