Thundercat
Well-Known Member
Mine is never around more then a few weeks, but it gets stored in a dark cupboard in parchment or in my silicone containers (which are disks). I never thought I would like the ball, just seems like it could be a pain.
Iso Extractions by _oakley_
- Thread starter oakley1984
- Start date
jondamon
Well-Known Member
The easy way is really simple.
Make your QWISO and purge it.
Heat up your QWISO in a double boil or oil bath.
Then add PG or PEG400 and Heat gently until dissolved.
Once cooled you can vape.
I've found 0.1g of oil to a MaX of 1ml of PG or PEG to work best.
My last batch was 1.5g of oil into a total of 9ml of PG.
Seriously strong but a little chokey after a few hits.
Next time I'm trying Winterized BHO and PEG400.
J
Green4Ganja
Member
oakly have you ever tried water curing before making the qwiso? Awsome technique by the way 
made my day
made my day
Green4Ganja
Member
why mais i ask?
Green4Ganja
Member
yeah but you get ride of weight that you dont need right? wouldnt make it more potent ? and wouldnt it remove waxes?
Green4Ganja
Member
thx makes alot of sense and should i use a 190 micron when i do the initial extraction because when making hash it removes most of the contaminents? and its fairly fast draining
I realise this is an old thread but ive just signed up to say this, thanks so much oakley (if you are still on here!) i made my first ever extract yesterday using this method.i used 7g of decent bud and a few g of stems and got just over a g of extract (it's not quite as good looking as yours but happy for a first attempt!) and have today turned it into eliquid so hopefully i will be completely tobacco free now, very happy and very high writing this!
Cheers!
Cheers!
GreenStick85
Well-Known Member
I have to admit I want to try this but I'm on the fence still because I don't have a vacuum to purge anything. Made bHo but let that sit out a long while before I smoked it and winterized it. I guess I just need to find that 90+ proof stuff and do it when I find the time. It's just that the butane being winterized with grain alcohol, I'm more comfortable with inhaling it since it was done right. But with ISO alcohol, I guess I'm less comfortable because it's not something you can ingest.
mcstellar
Member
I joined just so I could post a comment saying this is a great method. Follow the instructions *exactly* the first time and you will be rewarded with amazing results.
I plan on trying this method with a few pounds of bud and will post results/pictures.
I agree with Oakley that the details are in the cook down. I evaporate as much of the ISO as I can. Then, when it is just liquid enough to pour of my evaporating dish without leaving a bunch of goodies behind that I'd either lose or need to reclaim, I pour the concentrate on a silpat in a sheet pan and heat gently over a hot plate while monitoring with an infrared thermometer to ensure it doesn't go much over 185F. Cook until you're happy. Doing this on the silpat means you don't have to scrape out your evaporating dish.
Thanks, Oakley! I appreciate your method and that you shared it with us! <3
I plan on trying this method with a few pounds of bud and will post results/pictures.
I agree with Oakley that the details are in the cook down. I evaporate as much of the ISO as I can. Then, when it is just liquid enough to pour of my evaporating dish without leaving a bunch of goodies behind that I'd either lose or need to reclaim, I pour the concentrate on a silpat in a sheet pan and heat gently over a hot plate while monitoring with an infrared thermometer to ensure it doesn't go much over 185F. Cook until you're happy. Doing this on the silpat means you don't have to scrape out your evaporating dish.
Thanks, Oakley! I appreciate your method and that you shared it with us! <3
Last edited:
mcstellar
Member
My pics seem to be having issues, so I included the URLs too...
Unfortunately, I didn't start with top notch bud. Instead, it was some runts that got pulled out of the grow early and dried/cured with the regular stuff. It as really fluffy/airy, so I didn't break it up too much. It was also pretty dry and didn't want to turn it into powder.
Everything, including all equipment, was frozen in a chest freezer at -15F for several days before starting.
I started with 3 pounds total. About a half pound fit in the 100um screen sitting on the 5 gallon bucket.
https://goo.gl/T1WSA8
Originally, Oakley recommended 1 quart per ounce of pot. The store didn't have that much iso, so I used 2 gallons per pound (1/2 quart per ounce). I get my iso for $30/gallon from a local vendor.
I packed the 100um screen with the pot and poured a half gallon over it, waited one minute, then poured the rest. I let that drain until the dripping stopped. Then I dumped that into a bag and squeezed it out as described in the initial tek. Repeat with remainder of pot.
https://goo.gl/ACYzYj
I noticed that nothing really came out when i squeezed the bag, so I stopped the bag squeeze after the first half pound. I did continue to mash the pot into the screen to try and squeeze out any leftover solvent though. In total, I used 6 gallons of iso and ended up with 4.5 gallons of iso after washing, meaning 1.5 gallons was tossed out with the material.
After everything had been washed, I began filtering. I set up a strainer with large coffee filters. This took awhile. I put the filtered iso back into clean jugs and let that sit for 48 hours at -15F. I then decanted the liquid from the gallon jug into another coffee filter lined strainer for a second filter pass.
https://goo.gl/Oqh7ru
https://goo.gl/WKZMqN
I put the filtered iso into a stainless pot with a lid sitting in an oil bath. I used a temperature controller to keep the temperature of the oil right under the boiling point of the iso, or ~175F at my altitude/pressure. I used a second thermostat to tell me the temperature of the iso in the pot.
https://goo.gl/iuNlCV
https://goo.gl/7zsPLZ (the picture also shows a simple attempt to reclaim some of the iso. Yeah, that didn't work. :/ )
Overall, it took about 9 hours of evaporating and topping off the iso to get it reduced down to about a cup of liquid.
https://goo.gl/S7RDaF
I set up a griddle with a silicone mat so I could pour the iso and evaporate it directly on the silicone mat to minimize loss. I used my infrared thermometer to make sure the temp of the griddle/mat/oil never got above 190-195F. I cooked this until the bubbling mostly stopped, removing the mat from the griddle if necessary to maintain temperature.
https://goo.gl/sJCuha
https://goo.gl/PKrf8R
A movie of the evap process.
A movie of me taking its temperature.
In total, I ended up with 74 grams of oil from ~1300 grams of pot, or about 5.7% by weight.
This is 37 grams, or half of the yield from the run:
https://goo.gl/bIVH0H
https://goo.gl/KCLHnT
I've run smaller amounts of good buds (around an ounce) and had better results (~4-5 grams per ounce of starting material). I'm thinking the reduced yield was probably due to a couple of things:
1) Quality of the pot we started with
2) When running the smaller amounts, *all* of the solvent went over *all* of the material. When running the larger amount, the screen was wider and the solvent was spread around more (see video), so a given area in the screen might only receive *some* of the iso. It might be beneficial to use a tall, narrow column instead of a wide, flat disk for the wash to ensure all of the solvent hits all of the pot. Or, increase contact time by doing a short 30-60 second dunk.
It might be worth trying more solvent and/or re-pouring the solvent over subsequent batches (for 1 pound, pour 2 gallons over the first half pound, reload the screen, then pour that same 2 gallons over the second half pound). Or, wash with an extra 1/2-1 gallon to guarantee you end up with 2 gallons per pound of pot *after* your wash.
Thanks again Oakley for the inspiration. Hope this post helps someone.
Unfortunately, I didn't start with top notch bud. Instead, it was some runts that got pulled out of the grow early and dried/cured with the regular stuff. It as really fluffy/airy, so I didn't break it up too much. It was also pretty dry and didn't want to turn it into powder.
Everything, including all equipment, was frozen in a chest freezer at -15F for several days before starting.
I started with 3 pounds total. About a half pound fit in the 100um screen sitting on the 5 gallon bucket.
https://goo.gl/T1WSA8
Originally, Oakley recommended 1 quart per ounce of pot. The store didn't have that much iso, so I used 2 gallons per pound (1/2 quart per ounce). I get my iso for $30/gallon from a local vendor.
I packed the 100um screen with the pot and poured a half gallon over it, waited one minute, then poured the rest. I let that drain until the dripping stopped. Then I dumped that into a bag and squeezed it out as described in the initial tek. Repeat with remainder of pot.
https://goo.gl/ACYzYj
I noticed that nothing really came out when i squeezed the bag, so I stopped the bag squeeze after the first half pound. I did continue to mash the pot into the screen to try and squeeze out any leftover solvent though. In total, I used 6 gallons of iso and ended up with 4.5 gallons of iso after washing, meaning 1.5 gallons was tossed out with the material.
After everything had been washed, I began filtering. I set up a strainer with large coffee filters. This took awhile. I put the filtered iso back into clean jugs and let that sit for 48 hours at -15F. I then decanted the liquid from the gallon jug into another coffee filter lined strainer for a second filter pass.
https://goo.gl/Oqh7ru
https://goo.gl/WKZMqN
I put the filtered iso into a stainless pot with a lid sitting in an oil bath. I used a temperature controller to keep the temperature of the oil right under the boiling point of the iso, or ~175F at my altitude/pressure. I used a second thermostat to tell me the temperature of the iso in the pot.
https://goo.gl/iuNlCV
https://goo.gl/7zsPLZ (the picture also shows a simple attempt to reclaim some of the iso. Yeah, that didn't work. :/ )
Overall, it took about 9 hours of evaporating and topping off the iso to get it reduced down to about a cup of liquid.
https://goo.gl/S7RDaF
I set up a griddle with a silicone mat so I could pour the iso and evaporate it directly on the silicone mat to minimize loss. I used my infrared thermometer to make sure the temp of the griddle/mat/oil never got above 190-195F. I cooked this until the bubbling mostly stopped, removing the mat from the griddle if necessary to maintain temperature.
https://goo.gl/sJCuha
https://goo.gl/PKrf8R
A movie of the evap process.
A movie of me taking its temperature.
In total, I ended up with 74 grams of oil from ~1300 grams of pot, or about 5.7% by weight.
This is 37 grams, or half of the yield from the run:
https://goo.gl/bIVH0H
https://goo.gl/KCLHnT
I've run smaller amounts of good buds (around an ounce) and had better results (~4-5 grams per ounce of starting material). I'm thinking the reduced yield was probably due to a couple of things:
1) Quality of the pot we started with
2) When running the smaller amounts, *all* of the solvent went over *all* of the material. When running the larger amount, the screen was wider and the solvent was spread around more (see video), so a given area in the screen might only receive *some* of the iso. It might be beneficial to use a tall, narrow column instead of a wide, flat disk for the wash to ensure all of the solvent hits all of the pot. Or, increase contact time by doing a short 30-60 second dunk.
It might be worth trying more solvent and/or re-pouring the solvent over subsequent batches (for 1 pound, pour 2 gallons over the first half pound, reload the screen, then pour that same 2 gallons over the second half pound). Or, wash with an extra 1/2-1 gallon to guarantee you end up with 2 gallons per pound of pot *after* your wash.
Thanks again Oakley for the inspiration. Hope this post helps someone.
Last edited:
Blueryder133792
Active Member
Tagging this for kater
Spark Greenwald
New Member
Can you use a double boiler type setup to cook it? When do I know to stop cooking?
MXW3LL
Well-Known Member
yea but i would use foil to keep the water vapor away from the product, since the iso alc really wants to grab water molecules.
MXW3LL
Well-Known Member
i just ordered this since the other auction isn't active anymore:so i finally did it... i have applied this to serious bulk scale!
ive found a way of applying this method to a GARBAGE BAG of material yes thats right... this modification allows you process a GARBAGE bag of material in one go! 5-20lbs of trim!
items required.
5 Gallons of 99% iso
3 NEW 5 gallon buckets (2-4$ @ home depot)
this filter;
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SIEVE-12-100um-Filter-Copepods-Amphipods-Mysid-Shrimp-Rotifers-phytoplankton-/160716444018?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256b725172
follow the guide as posted earlier!
with the 100 micron screen i was able to just pour my mixture back through the screen and filter out a Large amount of crystal/floating particulate matter
^ after this it is still required that you do a final filter with coffee filters
LARGE size coffee filters can be had here..
http://www.cw-usa.com/supplies-filters-commercial-coffee-urn-10gallon.html
happy cooking! you can make OUNCES at a time processing this way!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIEVE-12-034-100-mic-Stackable-Copepods-phytoplankton-Brine-Shrimp-Amphipods-Mysid-/152156257678?rsta=en_US(en_US)&cnac=US&mail=sys&e=op&unp_tpcid=email-receipt-auction-payment&ppid=PPX000608&calf=4532bd99a5fae&calc=4532bd99a5fae&pgrp=main:email&unptid=34e2d386-1c0c-11e7-977e-441ea14dde40&mchn=em&t=&s=ci&page=main:email&cal=4532bd99a5fae&cust=
oakley1984
Well-Known Member
been quite some time since i have replied to anyone in this thread, however felt i needed to through some advice out there, Dont do that ^, with this method it is an open cookoff process, throwing a foil cover over, yes will semi keep water vapor away, but it will also absorb water vapor and act as a condensing cover, causing water and alcohol to bind in the cover, liquefy again.. and drip back into cooking vessel, introducing moisture.