Is this Mother plant going to revive ?

Hi Guys/Gals,

Here is a Mother plant which got over-fert back in April. I had to cut it back and leave it alone. Watering only with weak nutes every 5-7 days as it's under CFL's. Half RO and half tap water. Today I fed it 1/4 strength veg nutes at PH 6.2.

Some of the new growth looks very deficient. What can I do to fix it?

It's Super Skunk from Sensi Seeds

Quit watering it!!cut off dieing growth and back off the light!!!!she's sad but should survive and thrive again if given the proper condition's...no wet feet when you do water water twice what it need's to pull oxygen down to the root's use mycorrihazze for the root's health..she looks strong you did a good job with her so far! just mist her when it's hot never before bed..and you'll be golden my friend no question....wishing you the best!! jack my mother....

have you pulled it out of the pot and checked the roots. I would do that just to make sure its not bound or you have any root rot going on. It def has some stuff going on. Nice green mid and lower foilage and yellowing brown foilage on the top. Just to make sure...are you foliar feeding? my best educated guess would be either a sulfur or boron deficiency or nute burn from foliar feeding. Both of them deficiencies indicate yellow or brown color of new growing shoots which is what I see going on with your mom. If the tops end up dying off best bet is to just top her and let the lower shoots grow out. She will recover. Maybe a bigger pot with fresh soil will cheer her up. Whenever I had a mom in a small pot like that that started to get "angry" I do a repot and she cheers right up! You might want to get that ph up to between 6.5-6.9. 6.2 is in the danger zone for soil grows.

quit watering her? She is watering it every 5-7 days. that is plenty of time for the soil to dry out smh.

Hmmm...really yellow new growth is usually another sign of over fert... As for the idea of it being a micro deficiency, only if the overfert caused the deficiency, in which case adding the missing element in greater amounts will not help...it takes a long time to "grow out" of overfert...A long long time sometimes...but also check to make sure that your plant's aren't root bound, usually a root bound plant will yellow like a deficient plant though---down low...

The thing is, that pot is 11L and the seed germinated end of Feb. This is it's 3rd home since and got transplanted about 1 mth ago from a 7 L pot. Plus 11L is very big for me and I don't have a larger one. I wish I'd checked the roots before I watered it. It's really heavy now so I'll have to wait a few days to check.

I'm not foliar feeding, it's only had weak Neem spray. This is my Pineapple Chunk Mum. I want the Super Skunk to look like this !!

what about the ph being 6.2 and possibly locking out P/Ca/Mg? That has to be a big issue also. Here's a chart for ph and nutrient uptake...

View attachment 2212758

jpockets420 said:

what about the ph being 6.2 and possibly locking out P/Ca/Mg? That has to be a big issue also. Here's a chart for ph and nutrient uptake...

View attachment 2212758

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I had thought about that but the initial PH of the Canna soil is PH 5.8 - 6.2 and the Canna Veg food stated to keep the PH in the range.

I can raise the PH to 6.5 for Mg or add Mono nutes Mg

They do look a bit P def I think...

The thing is..if you add Mg without fixing the ph first the Mg will not be accessible to the plant, thus causing it to build up in the soil and it will interact with calcium uptake. I always notice deficiencies start when my ph drops below 6.4 and gets worse as it gets closer to 6. What happens to my plants is the opposite of what is happening yours though. I get ph claw and leaves start to get rusty and orange spots all over the lower and mid level fan leaves and secondary leaves. Let some other more experienced growers chime in on this, especially ones more experience with the type of soil you are using then come to your conclusion You can always call your local hydro shop too and describe what is going on to them. They are usually very well informed and willing to help their customers.

lahadaextranjera said:

They do look a bit P def I think... View attachment 2212761

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Yep..P starts to become inaccessible under 6.5

Thinking about it logically, the soil WAS ph 5.8-6.2 but what is it now? I wish I'd tested the run-off which was a good 20%, nasty orangey, browney colour though. If N is more absorbed at the lower PH of 6.2 then I should have raised it slowly as the plant got older. Most plants are transplanted in veg and stay in those pots. ????

I really want this Super Skunk (sensi seeds) for cloning. I have a couple of back-up clones that are small.

What PH do u transplant in veg period? 1/2 strength or 1/4 strength fert? I want to go with 1/2 next time as my EC is so low.

I always ph my water at 7.0 or use hinkley springs distilled water which comes ph'd at 7.0. The ph is lowered slightly as it leeches through the soil and I end up with a 6.5 ph in the soil and just slightly higher runoff ph. I get a slight yellow runoff from my plants. You can always use some gardening lime and topdress to stabilize your ph. I use 1/4 strength fert at transplant with no runoff. I water just enough to get her wet. Too wet and things might get froggy with roots not yet established in the bigger pot. I also add superthrive and rootbastic after transplant.

How many times do u water a bit before u water WITH a run-off?

It's so easy outdoors, they get a good soaking, with run-off and they're light by the next day. New transplants outdoors are light in 3-4 days. Ok, they're bigger plants but also in bigger pots. They love air and wind and use it so quickly out there.

Mimicking Mother Nature is not easy!!

After transplant I give two light waterings with 1/4 strength nutes, superthrive and rootbastic before I start watering with runoff. This encourages roots to seek out water and grow. After a couple light waterings the roots are big enough to take on more water. First full watering I bump up to 1/2 strength nutrients and then I alternate feed/water. Once in a while I will still give light waterings with no runoff just to inhibit more root growth.

jpockets420 said:

After transplant I give two light waterings with 1/4 strength nutes, superthrive and rootbastic before I start watering with runoff. This encourages roots to seek out water and grow. After a couple light waterings the roots are big enough to take on more water. First full watering I bump up to 1/2 strength nutrients and then I alternate feed/water. Once in a while I will still give light waterings with no runoff just to inhibit more root growth.

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I'm going to water less on transplants in future unless they're really big !!!

lahadaextranjera said:

How many times do u water a bit before u water WITH a run-off?

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You should have run off EVERY watering. Little *sips* of water are not in the plants best interest. Water well >>>>let dry >>>nothing in between.

Wet

Snip the top if it doesn't get better. The plant is using a lot of energy to try to rebuild itself, taking off the worst parts will let it put that energy towards the more "essential" parts of the plant. But if you don't fix the problem it will die regardless

Wetdog said:

You should have run off EVERY watering. Little *sips* of water are not in the plants best interest. Water well >>>>let dry >>>nothing in between.

Wet

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I have been but they take too long too dry out for a 1/4 strength mix. I'm going from a 10cm clone pot to a 5 - 7 Lt pot.

Burns2510 said:

Snip the top if it doesn't get better. The plant is using a lot of energy to try to rebuild itself, taking off the worst parts will let it put that energy towards the more "essential" parts of the plant.

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I'll have to cut it back AGAIN in that case. I already did this around a month ago.