Ph of my nutrient is really difficult to say i live in a desert kind country & these stuff comes in plastic bag with no details to be honest
The ph of the water is 7
Ppm/ec i have no idea what does it mean
And the temp is around 40 and will hit 50+ soon so i have no idea what to do man really sad times with 24/7 lockdown and no weed market around here at all, really losing my mind with this pandemic
Here are some pics of what u asked
Hey there buddy I think there is a cluster fuck of issues happening with everyone offering some good advice.
Seeing as lock down is here for most of us Inc myself. Why not read and learn some stuff. I'll send you some stuff about PH and why that's important. I would also suggest dropping your feed PH to around 6.2 as cannabis plants prefer slightly acidic environments over 7.0 which in neutral. Link below, look at how different PH's affect nutrient availability.
Learn how to easily adjust pH up and down if needed for your cannabis grow. It helps prevent nutrient deficiencies!
www.growweedeasy.com
The first issue I would address is the curling of the leaves which people seemed to have missed. Due to its size there was a key point I read upon. There is a few reasons why but the reason I think makes most sense is.
The rooting zone is not developed enough to feed the plant with the amount of water it's requiring to keep up with the rate of photosynathasis (seeing as you live in a fucking sand pit I can only imagine the intense levels of sun light you get). Thus in turn the plant starts to expose the underside of the leaf trying to slow the rate of photosynathsis by providing itself shade. This would be prior to the plant bleaching.
Nice easy fix untill it gets bigger limit it's time to full exposure of the sun. Maybe shade in the midday heat. Temperature also plays a key part in bud development. Link below with video explaining a bit more in depth leaf curling up.
Here are the 6 main causes for your weed leaves curling up and the best way to fix the problems quickly with our helpful solutions guide.
420growist.com
The medium looks again too wet, leave this untill the soil is almost completely dry before watering again as your only inviting anaerobic bacterias in to your root zone (rots essentially). Good practice with soil is taking the top of the soil with you fingers gently to break up the surface. This helps aerate the soil and when water stops the water just running off the top and down the sides of the container.
As for EC and PPM's these are pretty much the same thing. Just different measurements. These fall under what is called TDS or total dissolved solids. All this measurement tells you is how strong your nutrient soultion is.
PPM stands for parts per million
E.C. stands for electrical conductivity
These figure are important however as too higher value for PPM or EC will fry your plants. These figures are subject to opinion in terms of what strengths and at what times but all fall within a certain range. You just have to make the judgement on where in that range you want to be. Little key with small plants less is 100% more. These are measured with a TDS meter also called EC pens, PPM meters or TDS/EC/CF meters. You can buy the combined or seperately and you get what you pay for. Link below explaining a bit more. This may also explain then slight tip necrosis on the earlier set of leaves. Water sources have different EC/PPM values and also need to be factored in to your mixing ratios. Example my tap water is super clean and measure 0.1 EC or 30PPM. Towns in a different part of the country have nearly 600 PPM or 1.0/1.1 EC.
Learn about the difference between PPM and EC and how to measure your nutrient strength.
dutchmasternutrients.com
Whilst on the subject of nutrients you may want to look at making compost teas if you have the avaliable bits around you as this will help in any micro nutrient deficiencies you may have/get. Here again is a link explaining more detail about compost teas.
Nutrients and fertilizers are key for growing cannabis indoors and outdoors. Learn best practices for using them from the experts at Leafly.
www.leafly.com
Some people feed only organically but I've used the odd tea here and there to sort a few issues out. Some synthetic nutrients can kill the microbes and things put in by the tea but it's a trade off situation sometimes.
Now to address the white specs. Seeing as you didn't actually mention how you think they came about or gave further pictures I can only speculate.
It can be powdery mildew which will need a foliar spray of hydrogen peroxide. Careful it will fuck your plant if you do it wrong as it is extremely alkaline and not great for your plants but essential. You can also buy other less aggressive products but hydrogen peroxide is the better way. Wipe it off see if it comes back.
If it doesn't come back it's salts residue from getting it wet when you've fed it. If this is the case avoid this as droplets contain nutrients which will burn leaves through foliar absorbation and the droplets will act like mini magnifying glasses on the leaves damaging them.
You could have thrips which you would need a microscope of about 60-100x to see there fuckers and damn hard to see. You may have other forms of parasight that will be on the underside of the leaves. Check with a 30x jewellers loop to see a little better. Could try your phone zoomed all the way in. Desperate times desperate measures. Don't forget to inspect the soil too. Insect generally love in soil and feed on the plant so don't forgot to look. This could also explain stunted growth along with the above factors. Good news she will recover some what you'll be surprised if you fix the issue that is.