is my plant dieing? or is this normal...

the leaves are starting to droop down(looks like it got somewhat weak) and some of the lower ones are curling up just a tad bit... its under my 150w hps.
i watered her but it still looks like theres something still wrong.
shes about 3 weeks old and is working on her 3rd set of leaves + there are leaves growing from the nodes the axis or whatever...

can someone tell me what could be going wrong with her? and if the leaves inbetween the axis are suppose to be coming in this early?
 

moash

New Member
the leaves are starting to droop down(looks like it got somewhat weak) and some of the lower ones are curling up just a tad bit... its under my 150w hps.
i watered her but it still looks like theres something still wrong.
shes about 3 weeks old and is working on her 3rd set of leaves + there are leaves growing from the nodes the axis or whatever...

can someone tell me what could be going wrong with her? and if the leaves inbetween the axis are suppose to be coming in this early?
pics?
and those leaves r grow tips.....normal
 
heat? the 150w isnt that hot, i have a big block fan in my closet and my ac is on. its bin under the hps in my walk in closet for about 3 weeks now and its just now doing this. and watering....well that could be the problem kuz it was dry, but i watered it about 7 hours ago and its still like that....=(
 

highpsi

Well-Known Member
Overwatered.

If you're in soil, don't water for another few days or until the pot gets very light, if you're in hydroton, don't water for at least another 24 hours. If the leaves perk up after letting things go dry, you'll know that it was overwatering. Roots need water and AIR, if it lacks either, the plant will suffer. An overwatered plant's roots will rot, die, and once the rot sets in, there's no going back, the plant will surely die. However, an underwatered plant (as long as it doesn't go too long without water), will usually bounce back to life and fully recover once it is watered. So, it's better to err on the side of underwatering than overwatering.
 
Overwatered.

If you're in soil, don't water for another few days or until the pot gets very light, if you're in hydroton, don't water for at least another 24 hours. If the leaves perk up after letting things go dry, you'll know that it was overwatering. Roots need water and AIR, if it lacks either, the plant will suffer. An overwatered plant's roots will rot, die, and once the rot sets in, there's no going back, the plant will surely die. However, an underwatered plant (as long as it doesn't go too long without water), will usually bounce back to life and fully recover once it is watered. So, it's better to err on the side of underwatering than overwatering.
thanks.
question: i just purchased Ph down&up, and a Ph meter.
the numbers on the meter say 3-9, what number am i suppose to be at?
do i poor the ph downs n ups straight into my soil, or do i poor them into a water bottle with water (i water manually) and dip the Ph meter stick into the bottle?
 

<stealthgrowing>

Active Member
thanks.
question: i just purchased Ph down&up, and a Ph meter.
the numbers on the meter say 3-9, what number am i suppose to be at?
do i poor the ph downs n ups straight into my soil, or do i poor them into a water bottle with water (i water manually) and dip the Ph meter stick into the bottle?

Never ever pour PH ups or downs directly onto a plant. PH up is a highly concentrated base, which will burn your skin and kill your plant. PH down is a highly concentrated acid which will burn your skin and kill your plant.

I hope you do not ignore what I am telling here. You need to prepare some water, at least a gallon of room temperature water. you will take an initial PH reading of the water. If the PH is above 6.5 (higher) then you will add a droplet of PH down until you hit 6.5... If the PH is below 6.5 (lower), then you add a droplet of PH up until you hit 6.5....

6.5 is the magical # which is slightly below 7.0 (neutral) and slightly acidic. Plants need a slightly acidic root environment to grow.

PH up and down is not something to dick around with. you will use the dropper that accompanied the two bottles of solution. the dropper they included is roughly 2mililiter. for a gallon of water. you will need only a small droplet of either to make a difference. too much and you are wasting your time.

If you have added nutrients to the water, the PH still needs to be 6.5 so check it after adding nutes. The above process is for water without nutrients. if adding nutrients, then add nutes and perform above process in that order.
 
Hey im kind of new to all this, but since hes using soil that might also have nutes should'nt he PH test water that drains out the bottom of the pot also??
 

<stealthgrowing>

Active Member
Hey im kind of new to all this, but since hes using soil that might also have nutes should'nt he PH test water that drains out the bottom of the pot also??
If he is using soil with nutes then he shouldn't use an additional nutes at all until flower. I'm not sure that PH testing runoff is a productive thing to do. I think most soils that come with nutes are PH balanced from the get go. If you are adding PH balanced water to your medium then it should alter the PH of your medium. Any medium suitable for hydroponics is already neutral. I think he needs to master getting the PH of his water correct before being concerned with other things of less priority. I mean sure you could PH probe your soil, but its going to change the minute you add water. Any soil with nutes already in it should be flushed a bit probably. At least this is what has been reccomended here.
 
If he is using soil with nutes then he shouldn't use an additional nutes at all until flower. I'm not sure that PH testing runoff is a productive thing to do. I think most soils that come with nutes are PH balanced from the get go. If you are adding PH balanced water to your medium then it should alter the PH of your medium. Any medium suitable for hydroponics is already neutral. I think he needs to master getting the PH of his water correct before being concerned with other things of less priority. I mean sure you could PH probe your soil, but its going to change the minute you add water. Any soil with nutes already in it should be flushed a bit probably. At least this is what has been reccomended here.

so all i do is get a gallon of water and test it first then add the ups or downs? exactly 6.5 correct??
 

whynot99

Member
a good range is between 6.5 and 7.0 you really want it around 6.5 and to check your ph, test your water runoff when you water, thats what i do. add your ph up/down to your water before you water the plant and test the water that comes out the bottom of the pot, test the water before and after you water
 

<stealthgrowing>

Active Member
a good range is between 6.5 and 7.0 you really want it around 6.5 and to check your ph, test your water runoff when you water, thats what i do. add your ph up/down to your water before you water the plant and test the water that comes out the bottom of the pot, test the water before and after you water

PH a gallon of water, then just water with that until you run out.
 

highpsi

Well-Known Member
but about that ph....will it really burn my skin to the bone??
No, absolutely not. Usually horticultural PH modifiers are diluted down to anywhere between 10% and 30% for two reasons, one being for ease of use, and the other for safety/shipping reasons. I've spilled PH up on my hands from time to time, it's no big deal, just wash your hands as soon as possible.

Also, PH in soil is not nearly as critical as it is in hydro. Soil acts as a buffer, so as long as you aren't watering with acid (below PH 5.0) or alkaline (above 8.5) water, you'll be fine.
 
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