Is it better to make your own nutrients or to buy premix nutrients like foxfarm

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
They are, 5ppm boron, zinc and manganese is ridiculously high, as is the 10ppm iron and 1ppm copper. Hope you didnt mix a big batch of it :)
 

ShirkGoldbrick

Active Member
Well, in all fairness the ec of the particular designed solution was over 3, so the highest actual dose which according to fatman is 1.0ec, would leave micros at just under a third of those ppm, below the toxic levels. I want to put an early rooter in these nutes and observe.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Your best bet is either to use Hoagland, use one of the formulas built into the hydrobuddy database (none of them are insane). Then just make small adjustments if needed, and call that your formula. Hoagland formula specifies between 1-5ppm iron. I've been using 5ppm with good results.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
A digital scale with 0.001g resolution is handy for making up small test batches. Unusable 5 gallon stocks waste a lot of chemicals and are more difficult to dispose of responsibly.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Don't even bother trying without both a 0.1g scale, and a 0.001g scale. The range of most cheap 0.001g scales will not measure more than a few 10s of grams.

Even with a 0.001g scale, you won't be able to get good precision with molybdenum,boron, and manganese if weighing directly into the tank. Making a stock solution is the way to get precision. The more dilute the stock solution, the less instrumentation error you will have because a 60mL syringe will have 1mL graduations.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
1L stocks are about the smallest size thats still useful. Direct addition of micro`s isnt a good idea unless its a swimming pool sized res. You can get 0.001g resolution scales that read to 100g, but as said you will need a higher range scale for the bulkier chems. A 600g, 0.1g resolution does a good job.
 

ShirkGoldbrick

Active Member
Eh, the only nutrient that's really a bit high is the zinc. Although I've got upper side of ratio chelated iron too so this shouldn't be an issue. I was worried so I double checked jorge cervantes ppm chart.

The only irritating part is I'm going to have to agitate it everyday to keep it homogeneous, next time I'll lower the zinc a little and go 50x concentrated instead of 100.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
You didnt say which one of fatmans recipes you were using but hopefully its not one that sports these kind of micro levels.

Iron 10.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 5.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 1.00
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
2ppm is the highest level of Mn in any formulations build into hydrobuddy, so I consider it the upper limit.

5ppm zinc is crazy. It's way too high. I get enough zinc throwing a tiny piece of post 1983 penny into each tank.. Seriously, it's needed in such small quantities, it's practically a negligible amount. Same with copper. 1ppm is way too high. Boron should also be below 2ppm, and of course, Iron should be between 1-5ppm.
 

ShirkGoldbrick

Active Member
Atomizer, it is - but that gives a 3.4EC solution. Divide by two and look at the chart by jorge cervantes it's in his book just after micronutrients I think. I think I've seen it online too. Then the only high nute is zinc which is only an issue if it locks out iron.

I have one clone in the main setup that rooted some 1/2“ roots that I'm testing out at 0.8EC. I'll be watching probably for a week before I move the others in - some still haven't popped roots.
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
If its this one i doubt you`ll need to watch it for a week ;)
How did you get this to EC:3.4?
Nitrogen 200
Phosphorus 200
Potassium 300
Magnesium 50
Calcium 231

Sulfur 66
Iron 10.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 5.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 1.00
 

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
When you are testing a nute its best to use ro to remove any unknown variables. A custom formulated nute should be geared for ro for that very reason :)
 

ShirkGoldbrick

Active Member
All my water is ro and uv filtered. The reason I bumped up calmag was because using dynagrow I had to supplement it so I bumped it up to be equivalent.

So far so good. It's 15on 15off right now, still a little droopy from the small root system. You can take huge Cuttings in a bubble cloner and experience no wilt, this hasn't been the case for me with aero cloning.

The leaves have a little calcium rust spots on a few of the fans and are dieing from the tip on those but that happens on my mothers too, calcium may still be a bit light. I left any fucked up leaves on when I took the cuttings figuring they'd be sacrificed first as food for roots. No immediate death from zinc toxicity.
 

ShirkGoldbrick

Active Member
Here's the clone on the day three of its transplant into the aero setup. It's running 15 on 15 off but I think I'll switch to 45 on 15 off. It seems to be wilting a little bit due to the small root system and large leaf mass. This wasn't an issue in the bubbler as long as the stem was submersed.

I tried the whole scraping the stem think, I think I took too much off? Almost none have sprouted roots from there. Many have similar roots to this one when I transplanted now (about third to half the amount as pictured). They're all starting to yellow though. I added some light nutes to the bubbler and gave them a foliar feed. They sure do root slow in hydro/aero.

The only leaf problems I have seen are the dieing from the tip on the few older fan leaves. Not sure what's causing that? They just get old? Some of the older fan leaves on the mothers tend to do that too.

Transplant:
Transplant.jpg

Day 3 Morning:
Day 3Morning.jpg

Roots:
roots.jpg

Leaf damage:
leaves.jpg
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Here's the clone on the day three of its transplant into the aero setup. It's running 15 on 15 off but I think I'll switch to 45 on 15 off. It seems to be wilting a little bit due to the small root system and large leaf mass. This wasn't an issue in the bubbler as long as the stem was submersed.

I tried the whole scraping the stem think, I think I took too much off? Almost none have sprouted roots from there. Many have similar roots to this one when I transplanted now (about third to half the amount as pictured). They're all starting to yellow though. I added some light nutes to the bubbler and gave them a foliar feed. They sure do root slow in hydro/aero.

The only leaf problems I have seen are the dieing from the tip on the few older fan leaves. Not sure what's causing that? They just get old? Some of the older fan leaves on the mothers tend to do that too.

Transplant:
View attachment 3397391

Day 3 Morning:
View attachment 3397398

Roots:
View attachment 3397399

Leaf damage:
View attachment 3397401

Perhaps think of making your own thread in the help section.
 
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