Interesting plant problems, pictures + data

• Growing medium: differs, se plant time story.
• Tap water here is around pH 6.5-7.0.
  
• Good drainiage (several good sized holes in all pots).
• Temp: 25 degrees celcius, 77 farenheit, but is sadly has to vary between 20-30 C (68-86 F) at times because of my location.
• Airflow: mostly two extractionsfans with carbonfilters circulating more than enough air. One internal fan that is activated on average once or twice per day to supply air directly onto leaves. There are particle/dust/organism filters on the inlets.
• Lights: 3 big CFL, 45w each (equivalent of 195w normal light) that produce 3077 lm, 4000K which adds up to a total of 135w (585w equivalent), 9231 lm.
• Lightcycle 24/0
• Structure: Custom build wooden cube, painted plain white all around. Sealed with silicone at joints. Door has soft molding to seal. All air now has to pass trough all filters unless door is opened to water or checkup.
• height = 75cm, almsot 30 inches.
• depth = 50 cm, almost 20 inches.
• width = 50 cm , almost 20 inches.

• Germinated, in local starter soil (LSS) mixed with some (30-40% ish) perlite, in 5 days.
• Over watered plenty in the early beginning which I misread as root bound and then repotted into bigger pot with local herbal soil (LHS), 11 sep, almost 2 weeks old.
• 22 sep - Plant almost died, emergency flushed and repotted into smaller pot with LSS mixed 50/50 with perlite. 22 sep, 3 1/2 weeks old.
• Let it dry out and then it really took shine and started growing vigorously.
• 7 okt (ish) - After a couple of waterings it started yellowing and looking pale.
• 10 okt - I decided to give it local nutrition 1 (LN1) at 15% strength with about 20% runoff water.
• Now 3 days later the photos were taken.

• Germinated in moist paper between two plates in 3 days, then planted in LSS/perlite 50/50
• Also overwatered plenty, got mostly same treatment as A).
• 11 sep - same as A) but with stronger symptoms; yellowing/browning leaftips (only furthest out on the leaf).
• 13 sep - trimmed away brown and brittle material
• 15 sep - brown spots came back
• 23 sep - same treatment as A) with emergency flush etc.
• After drying out also started growing good, but not as good as A).
• 7 otk- Started getting brown spots and leaftips curling slightly up (started with lowest/oldest).
• 10 okt - Gave it some (LN1) at 15% strength with 20% runoff.
• 13 okt - photos taken

• Now after realizing my mistake with the first two i planted a backup seed that I was hoping to give a better life to in case the other two gave up.
• 19 sep - planted in LSS almost no prelite.
• germinated in just a few days and grew vigourusly, just like in my book.
• watered with care and it more or less exploded up compared to the other two, easily outgrew them in rerlationship to time in just a few days.
• 6 okt - 2 1/2 weeks old - The first set of real leaves (not the embryonic but those after them, which were a LOT bigger than they were on the other two) had gotten brown spots and areas of yellow/brown, and all leaves seemed to become a bit more yellow. Since this was in a lot smaller pot (a small plastic cup) i decided to repot it into a bigger pot. This I filled with LHS/perlite 50/50 but left a sizable hole for the rootmass and sois from the old cup. This I placed in the hole and then added some LHS on top.
• 8 okt - All leaves but first two real ones are green again. The plant looks overall healthy except for those two first leaves.
• 10 okt - watered with some 15% LN1 and a little 75% LN1 so average was probably around 35-40 % strength.
• 13 okt - photos taken.

Rlain said:

Hi!

Question:
I've been having some truoble with all of my seedlings and I can't seem to figure out what to do. Maybe someone here knows what I'm doing wrong! Since I'm fumbling in the dark I will probably provide a lot more information than neccessary, but better safe than sorry I figured.
Several photos of all plants will be provided, also full list of ingridients in soil and nutrients will be attached.

Hopefully someone here knows what I am doing wrong!

The book I will be reffering to is "The Cannabis Grow Bibile" by Greg Green.
Shorthands: LSS - local starter soil, LHS - local herbal soil, LN1 - local nutrition 1, LN2 - local nutrition 2.

Here's the background info:

3 plants/seedlings all Purple Haze Feminized from sensi seeds. Will reffer to these with following letters:
A) germinated in soil 31 aug (now 5 1/2 weeks old)
B) germinated in paper 31 aug (also 5 1/2 weeks old)
C) germinated in soil 19 sep (now 3 1/2 weels old)

Grow enviroment

• Growing medium: differs, se plant time story.
• Tap water here is around pH 6.5-7.0.
  
• Temp: 25 degrees celcius, 77 farenheit, but is sadly has to vary between 20-30 C (68-86 F) at times because of my location.
• Airflow: mostly two extractionsfans with carbonfilters circulating more than enough air. One internal fan that is activated on average once or twice per day to supply air directly onto leaves. There are particle/dust/organism filters on the inlets.
• Lights: 3 big CFL, 45w each (equivalent of 195w normal light) that produce 3077 lm, 4000K which adds up to a total of 135w (585w equivalent), 9231 lm.
• Lightcycle 24/0
• Structure: Custom build wooden cube, painted plain white all around. Sealed with silicone at joints. Door has soft molding to seal. All air now has to pass trough all filters unless door is opened to water or checkup.
• height = 75cm, almsot 30 inches.
• depth = 50 cm, almost 20 inches.
• width = 50 cm , almost 20 inches.

Time story:
plant A)

• Germinated, in local starter soil (LSS) mixed with some (30-40% ish) perlite, in 5 days.
• Over watered plenty in the early beginning which I misread as root bound and then repotted into bigger pot with local herbal soil (LHS), 11 sep, almost 2 weeks old.
• 22 sep - Plant almost died, emergency flushed and repotted into smaller pot with LSS mixed 50/50 with perlite. 22 sep, 3 1/2 weeks old.
• Let it dry out and then it really took shine and started growing vigorously.
• 7 okt (ish) - After a couple of waterings it started yellowing and looking pale.
• 10 okt - I decided to give it local nutrition 1 (LN1) at 15% strength with about 20% runoff water.
• Now 3 days later the photos were taken.

B)

• Germinated in moist paper between two plates in 3 days, then planted in LSS/perlite 50/50
• Also overwatered plenty, got mostly same treatment as A).
• 11 sep - same as A) but with stronger symptoms; yellowing/browning leaftips (only furthest out on the leaf).
• 13 sep - trimmed away brown and brittle material
• 15 sep - brown spots came back
• 23 sep - same treatment as A) with emergency flush etc.
• After drying out also started growing good, but not as good as A).
• 7 otk- Started getting brown spots and leaftips curling slightly up (started with lowest/oldest).
• 10 okt - Gave it some (LN1) at 15% strength with 20% runoff.
• 13 okt - photos taken

C)

• Now after realizing my mistake with the first two i planted a backup seed that I was hoping to give a better life to in case the other two gave up.
• 19 sep - planted in LSS almost no prelite.
• germinated in just a few days and grew vigourusly, just like in my book.
• watered with care and it more or less exploded up compared to the other two, easily outgrew them in rerlationship to time in just a few days.
• 6 okt - 2 1/2 weeks old - The first set of real leaves (not the embryonic but those after them, which were a LOT bigger than they were on the other two) had gotten brown spots and areas of yellow/brown, and all leaves seemed to become a bit more yellow. Since this was in a lot smaller pot (a small plastic cup) i decided to repot it into a bigger pot. This I filled with LHS/perlite 50/50 but left a sizable hole for the rootmass and sois from the old cup. This I placed in the hole and then added some LHS on top.
• 8 okt - All leaves but first two real ones are green again. The plant looks overall healthy except for those two first leaves.
• 10 okt - watered with some 15% LN1 and a little 75% LN1 so average was probably around 35-40 % strength.
• 13 okt - photos taken.

Other Facts:
I have checked the roots on all plants and they look healthy and strong.
I have had a problem with gnats on my tomatoes, but because of the filters i have only found 2 gnats in the grow cabinet and they stopped coming in once I sealed a leak in the systems filter.

My future plan:
I was hoping to get these to grow and then clone all of them, then flower these clones, decide which one is best and keep that one as a mother of this strain. Then If I can manage this I plan on aquiring some 50/50 (sativa/indica) cannadential, some Mr Nice, some blueberry and one more, repeat process and then have 4 or 5 small mothers that produce clones every now and then that I can flower. Im hoping to not get more than 20 grams per harvets, optimal 5-10g per harvest. Partially to keep a low amount on me and at home but also because I don't need more. Studying theroetical physics does not really allow me to smoke every day but rather more like once every/every other week. But from these few grams I would love to be able to get at least average quality, preffably better than anyone has ever seen...



Pictures:
Organized in zip files due to restricitions in how many files the forum permits me to upload.
There are about 45 photos of these three plants, the setup and equipment in there! All named appropriatley.
Although you may have one here
View attachment 3272970




Please let me know if I have missed anything or need to add any information, remember:
You're helping me, so I will do all i possibly can to easy your job in helping me!







Appendix:

Decleration of ingridients (there are photos but they are a bit unclear):

Local Starting Soil (LSS):
Composition:
- 55 %vol low humidified sphagnum peat (H2-4)
- 35 %vol high humidified sphagnum peat (H6-
- 10 %vol sand

Characteristics:
- pH = 6,0
- organic

Additives (per m^3)
- limestone powder 4kg
- dolomite powder 2kg
- NPK 14-7-15 micro: 0,9kg

Nutrients (in g/m^3, mg/l)
- Nitrogen (NO3-N+NH4-N) 125, 100
- Phosphor (P) 60, 30
- Potassium (K) 135, 140
- Magnesium (Mg) 240, 230
- Calcium (Ca) 1800, 350
- Sulphur (S) 70, 70
- Boron (B) 0.3, 0.2
- Copper (Cu) 1.1, 0.8
- Iron (Fe) 0.8, 50
- Manganese (Mn) 1.4, 15
- Molybdenum (Mo) 1.8, 0.5
- Zinc (Zn) 0.4, 1.0

Local Herbal Soil (LHS)
Composition:
- 52 %vol medium humidified sphagnum peat (H2-4)
- 35 %vol High humidified sphagnum peat (H6-
- 8 %vol sand
- 5 %vol clay

Charachteristics:
-pH=6,0
-organic
Additives (per M^3)
- chicken manure 12kg
- kalimagnesia (naitive word) 1 kg (this is basically de-chlorine-idifed Kalisalt)
- seaweed powder 0.4 kg

Nutrients (in mg/l)
- Nitrogen (NO3-N+NH4-N) 160
- P 45
- K 290
- Ca 250
- Mg 220
- S 160
- B 0.3
- Cu 0.2
- Fe 80
- Mn 15
- Mo 0.2
- Zn 5.0

Local Nutrition 1 (LN1):
Organic effervescent tablet, label says 1 tablet to 2 litres of water.
Nutrition (all is water soluble) in % of weight:
N 4.8
NH4-N 4.8
P 5.1
K 4.8

Local Nutrition 2 (LN2):
Organic liquid, label says 10ml to one litre of water, use once a week.
Contains microorganisms that are supposed to transform organic materia to nutrients.
It also contains humus. Supposedly it is from rest products from the paper industry.
I have not yet used this on these plants (on tomatoes it works wonders), it's called Bio Bact from the company Giva.
N 2.7 %
K 1.7%
S 2.5%
Zn 0.002%

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green_machine_two9er said:

sounds very confusing. [...]

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Arris said:

Them 3 plants in the pic look like they suffer from ph problems. Not nute burn that looks different.

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Rlain said:

Hi!
Thanks for your response!

To clear some up about the soils, the government here has tried to limit the availability of anything cannabis related, so soils that match up are really really hard to find here in the country. So from the local shop those were the closest I could find. This also means nutrients are harder to find. And they are usually not labeled exactly but rather labeled for instance for tomatoes in the autumn" and similair. I asked why at the shop and they said that all that technical stuff (labeled nutrients, soils with specific ingridents, etc) is only available to registered professional growers for food and similair...

A rest you say? I've heard 18/6 is good too, but since they're under a lot of stress i dont want to risk them going into flowering here. Is 18/6 safe you think?

Drainage is good, have several good sized holes in all of the pots and regularily lift them up to check that they're not clogged or anything. (adding this in edit).

But you think the soil might be too rich? Would that maybe explain the yellowing of A and C?

Yeah the B plant defentetively has some other issues. If nutrient lockout, is flush and transplant way to go, or is fluish enough? Also if soild is too rich, maybe adding lots of perlite instead would be better?





pH problem? The soil is set to 6 in the bag and the water here is 6.5-7, do you think something might have changed that? Maybe the nutes? Isn't this around optimal for soil growing? :S

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Arris said:

Yes nutes will play havoc with ph. Catch the run off and see where your ph is at.

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Rlain said:

Will do next time soil is dry (probably in about two-three days from now). What is a good runoff pH? 6-7?

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Arris said:

I never went higher than 6.1 in dirt but I think you can safely go to 6.3.

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Rlain said:

Allright! I didn't think it would be that low! I¨ll see what test kit I can find around town tomorrow! Thanks a bunch!

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