I'm no carpenter....so wtf do I do?

Hey guys I am really anxious to get my closet set up the way it needs to be, but I am having a hard time bringing it together. I'd like to propose my plan and how I think it should work and hope to get some good feedback from all the experienced grower's here at rollitup. I have the most trouble realizing the handywork that needs to be done. I mean what kind of cuts to make, where to place screws, ect. My closet is 5'x2'x6.5' and is in a spare room that stays cool year round and is used as storage. The doorway is 3' wide and is right in the middle of one side. I can not cut through any walls, but I can drill and paint all I want. Right now there is no door on the closet,but I want to make the closet sealed. I already have 1 250 w HPS/MH converter ballast and I am planning on getting a second. These two lights should fully illuminate my floor space. I also think a 6" inline fan rated at 400cfm should be strong enough to ventilate the closet. My plan is to have a shelf in the closet. Have two large holes along the back of the shelf lined up with the lights hanging below. These holes should allow the hot air from the growing area below to travel into the "utility" area above. I also want to store the light ballast up here. I would mount the fan above the shelf and it would only have to work to clear the air from this heat box, instead of the larger closet. I think this is making good use of the fan, but I may be wrong. I run into trouble when I consider the door. How can I have a door that opens and closes, a fan that has to exhaust through the same doorway, and is light proof. The thing is I don't know how to handle the four inch thickness of the door way. It complicates all shapes. I am thinking a short door, that only opens below the shelf line, and having the shelf more permanently sealed. How would I accomplish this. I know this is a long post, but I'm trying to fully explain the situation. Will post pictures tomorrow.

pictures explain better mate

Consider that 'doorway' for a moment... and go find and look at another complete door inside your place. Notice how the side with the hinges exposed (the side the door opens towards) the door is biased towards that side? If you install the door so the hinges are on the outside, - so the door opens outward into your main room or hall, not into the closet- you'll "gain" some footprint.

The way the door casing is (with the door all the way towards the outer edge of the opening) you can make another inner door out of tarp or other light-proof material with a zipper or velcro opening. Or two inner doors if you do a split-level shelf arrangement.

In general and if possible, anchor things to the 2x4 studs within the walls... drywall has little holding power by itself. "good" construction adhesive is strong and non-destructive, but takes 24hr -+ to set up vs banging in a nail or shooting a screw in.

LOL Measure Twice, Cut Once... I say that over & over to myself, and still bugger things on occasion. Just try to minimize the impact of your screw-ups.

I had only the roughest of plans going in to my project, which allowed me to modify several parts of it, on the go. A rigid, non-waiverable plan & cut list and I'd be done now, but with only one room, not two. What I'm saying here is be flexible and don't be afraid (or too proud) to readjust things of what you're doing seems unworkable.

I know your pain, I am not too shabby with knocking stuff up DIY style, but there is ALWAYS something that goes wrong. Even if it is some bloody IKEA job, it is sod's law that you will have to undo something you previously did because it doesnt go there yet.

Best way i think is to get a basics guide to either DIY or carpentry. Just a little paperback guide book will do, no need for a bible. It will show some tips and tricks to get certain things working. You will be surprised how simple some things are when they look so damn complicated.

And don't forget useful materials like No-Nails (strong glue) which is heat resistant and can save a lot of awkward screwing and nailing together.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Complete-Guide-Carpentry-Homeowners/dp/158923331X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1334920158&sr=1-1 something like this should do the trick. It of course comes in handy for other little projects around the house as well =)

Thanks for the tips guys, +rep. Unpossible, I go in my grow area once a week and look at it and always nit pick at my ideas to make sure there isn't something i'm overlooking. Normally there is, and so every week the plan changes a little. My plans now, though still similar in the core idea, are massively different than they were 2 months ago. I dont want to put holes in walls and come to the realization it was unnecessary afterwards. Like you said measure twice cut once. But I'm tired of a light hanging in the middle of the closet from nylon strings that are a pain to adjust. And more people keep coming by my place and I'm no longer comfortable with the glow coming from under the door of the empty room. I'm sure the light is visible in the window too, though the window is in the back yard, and the yard faces the woods, i still have neighbors. It's time to tighten things up.

Door idea...cover with a layer of white plastic this will be facing plants and reflect light and help keep it in then use duct tape to seal it all off. Now a layer of black plastic then more duct tape to seal. Then i saw these zipper flaps at htg supply that are various heights with strong foam tape on back. Slap zipper flap on zip it down cut a slit in plastic for your access. For your vent fans put holes at top and bottom and seal after duct vent is in..

Hope it makes sense just hit the bong

google zipper door. see if that meets your need.

there are diff ones to choose from

How sturdy and permanent would a tarp and zipper door be? I know I could mount the fan to the ceiling but could a 2mm Mylar sheet support a flange? How about heavy duty tarp?