Im having some PH issues

bizzarebud

Well-Known Member
I need to find the best way to keep my ph down and at least maintain a ph of 5.5.- 5.6
I will stay at around 5.5 when adding lemon juice. then the next morning the ph will be like 7.2 ...

Is there anyone out there with good advice with helping me keep my ph down.kiss-ass
 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
Many topics in Hydroponics are arguable, often debated. Even Ed Rosenthal and Jorge Cervantes disagree on many subjects, LIGHT and WATER being the main two.

Jorge Cervantes says to start with PURE water, R.O. Water, (Reversed Osmosis) or Distilled water, or Filtered Water. Ed Rosenthal says CITY water works just fine, as well as Well Water.


One of the not so simple procedures for many growers is maintaining a level pH. And if the plants are eating and drinking daily, the pH will change daily as they eat and drink, removing nutrients from the water.

I will not get into a bunch of scientific points to make here, I will only report on personal experience. I do accept and believe the more controversial side of the coin, that City Water and Well Water not only works or performs just fine, but works best for me.

If you will google "Water, pH, Buffers" and research it, you will find both sides of the coin. You will learn that water with content, (water with Lime, Calcium, Iron, Maganese, Magnisium, and other minerals) is easier to maintain a level pH, than Filtered Water, R.O. Water, or Distilled Water. ( a buffer is a stabilizer)
Those minerals act as "buffers" holding or maintaining the pH at one level.
Water that has no content will drift up or down in pH more quickly and need additonal added buffers.

Then there is the dreaded "clorine" in the city water.

I once took a job selling Water Filters. I had to go to a short class for two days, studying city water, water filters, and clorine. We would go to a prospect's house, with a clorine swimming pool test kit. We would test thier water and frighten them, and show them it was too highly clorinated to swim in, much less drink it. We'd hook up the filter, let them use it for free for a week, drinking their tea and coffee with no clorine in it. When I came back a week later, they would not want to give up their filter. They would buy it everytime.
We were taught and had it proven to us, that clorine will "disapate" ( a fancy word for vaporize, or disappear in vapors) with any added heat, aeration, or being allowed to sit an hour.

In the past two years, I did two very successful grows at my X-wife's house, and she has city water. We tested it with a swimming pool clorine test kit. It was very high in clorine. I ran the water from a faucet, over the warm palm of my hand, into a large metal bowl. When the bowl filled, I poured it into a five gallon bucket, one bowl at a time, holding the bowl up high, allowing the water to fall through the air. When the bucket was full, we stirred it, tested it, and 75% to 80% of the clorine was gone, no smell, no odor, no taste.


Today most citie use chlorinated water. Many cities have switched to a form called Chloramine. This form will not dissipate, will not evaporate, will stay in the water forever.

You can check if your city uses Chlormine on your water supply's website. All info must be reported on Chloramine levels.

You can find Dechlorinators at your local aquarium stores. Most often it is sold to people with large fresh water home made ponds. Generally they run city water, but do not want the chlorine or chlormine to hurt there VERY pricey Coy or other fish. Dechlorinators work great, and are easy to use. Many growers still report great growing results with city water.

Three years ago, I tried to do a grow with store bought distilled water at a friend's house. His water had a sulphur smell to it. I read it was best to use filtered water, in a Jorge Cervantes book. Cost us 79 cents a gallon then. I only did one 6 gallon tank of water, and after we bought and hauled water for 4 weeks, spent about $30 to $40, and battled and battled pH spikes and pH flucuations for a month, I wised up. It is very difficult to maintain a level pH in Filtered or Distilled Water.


And there is water with energy or electolytes and there is dead water. I want my water full of energy, not dead from filtration. So I use and prefer well water.
 

blueybong

Well-Known Member
I need to find the best way to keep my ph down and at least maintain a ph of 5.5.- 5.6
I will stay at around 5.5 when adding lemon juice. then the next morning the ph will be like 7.2 ...

Is there anyone out there with good advice with helping me keep my ph down.kiss-ass
Any hydro shop will have a liquid ph down, which will be very stable using Pro Blend Grow nutes(I use the same nutes).


 

Roseman

Elite Rolling Society
NEW growers worry about it too too much, and the biggest mistake they make is trying for a perfect contstant same pH.
You will do better, to just try to keep it between 5.6 and 6.8 without changing it often. Plants eat more nitrogen at 5.7 to 5.9 than at 6.7 to 6.8. But they eat more iron and magnesium at 6.5 to 6.8. You need a fluctuating pH level for your plants to absorb different nutes at different levels.
When you prepare your water, add nutes and pH test it, no matter what the results, if it is between 5.6 and 6.4, leave it alone or only adjust it slightly by .1 to .2 down.
Do NOT try to make it exactly 5.9.
DO NOT PLAY the pH Game.
Do NOT ride the pH Roller Coaster.

Do NOT adjust it more than .5 in 4 hours.

It is better to be off, too high, or too low, than to adjust it too much at one time.

Drastic or FAST adjustments really mess up the entire system.
Adjust gradually, and slowly.





The pH should not vary more than .5 to .7 everyday, and if it does flucuate alot more up OR down daily, something is wrong.
First, ask yourself, IF growing in HYDRO, what is going into the tank? Water, Nutes, pH UP and Down should be it. Adding anything else, WHEN YOU DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM, is not the wisest thing to do. (Yes, sometimes some small amount of peroxide or hydrozyme might be needed, but I've done 7 grows without it.)
And if you are making NUTE SOUP, ( a nute mix and supplement mix of more than two nutrients) I can not help you or advise you about your pH.

Except for the very first time you add the water to the tank, You should pH balance your water FIRST, everytime, outside of the tank, then add the nutes, pH balance it again, then add it to the tank. Rule of thumb is your pH should not go up more than .5 within one 12 hour day or 1.0 in 24 hours.
If it does go up more in one day or two days, you got to do something to stabilize it. After the first two or 3 weeks pass, and the plants are drinking a gallon a day, you can add one gallon back that is over adjusted or over compensated, to get it back down. FOR EXAMPLE, If the tank is reading 7.2, then add one gallon of 6.2, and you'll get it down SOME, without it being too drastic.
DRASTIC pH CHANGES WITHIN 24 HOURS ARE VERY DANGEROUS.

IF YOU ARE HAVING A PROBLEM, AND ONLY IF IT IS GOING UP AND DOWN WILDLY, then try adding a lump of charcoal or two, tied in a panty hose or nylon stocking to the tank.
OR
Go to Walmart or PetSmart to the Aquarium Dept, next to the fish food, filters and additives and sea salts, and get those little packages of Ammonia Control absorbent packets. They look like little sponges in a wrapper. They work great to stabilize the pH. Or get the Ammonia control packets and add a couple to the tank.
IF YOU ARE HAVING A PROBLEM, AND ONLY IF IT IS GOING UP AND DOWN WILDLY, and you need a remedy then get everything in your tank like you want it, (except the roots or plants,) and add two heaping tablespoons of baking soda to a gallon of water,Stir it good, then add it to the tank. Wait ten or 15 minutes, then pH adjust it again. Then it should stay stabilized until the next Drain and Replenish.

From the book:
A buffer solution is an aqueous solution consisting of a mixture of a weak acid and its conjugate base or a weak base and its conjugate acid. It has the property that the pH of the solution changes very little when a small amount of acid or base is added to it. Buffer solutions are used as a means of keeping pH at a nearly constant value in a wide variety of chemical applications.

IF YOU ARE HAVING A PROBLEM, AND ONLY IF IT IS GOING UP AND DOWN WILDLY,
you can simply add two heaping table spoons of baking soda to your water, (before you put it in the tank). Yes, it will wreck the pH, but then you adjust it with pH Down, OUT OF YOUR TANK, and then it will stay more stable for a few days longer.


Primarily what one needs to add to the water are neutralizers and buffers that will stabilize the acid and alkaline levels to the degree that is required for the plants. Most of these stabilizing products are sold in great volume at any pet store that specialized in aquariums and tropical fish and if one is not familiar with what product to purchase, then one should consult with the qualified salespeople so as to arrive at a specific product that will properly address the specific needs of the fish and their owner. You want something that reduces the acid.
 

Cosuir

Member
No man, as far as i can tell Roseman thinks (in his experience) that city water is fine! Read his tutorial's and comments..i think he's the man..for sure!
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
one thing he didnt mention in his info was nute strength, out of all the nutes i have tried i think pure blend pro has a stable PH most, but heres one thing, if your running nutes a little too high, the plants will not use them all up, thus creating a higher nutrient concentration, this can cause your PH to flux. when it comes to nutrients less is more, a wise man named Earl said to run lower ppms than you would normally do, till you hit the point of the plants taking up as much nutes as water or even watch the ppms go down. ever see your rez get lower and your ppms go higher by 100ppm per day? this is what i mean, i used to have the same issues when i ran GH nutes and fed at 1000ppm, everyday PH would rise from 5.5 to over 7 within 24hrs. when they started to recieve 700ppm my PH stabilized, and actually did add-backs with nutes, before this i had to addback plain water to offset the ppms...doing all of this, i found one thing for sure, i never had happier healthier plants EVER...so go slow let the plants dicatate to you when they should get more nutes, the "sweet spot" is when your nute concentration goes down
 
Im using fox farm nutes and i have so much trouble maintaining a decent ph level,but from what i remember, when i used Pure Blend Pro , i hardly had any PH trouble with my rez...so now i understand what was goin on...
 
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