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Kraamm

Kraamm

Active Member
Hi fellow growers, I'm french and speaks little English, sorry.

I grow in a box 4 * 4 * 6.6 with AAW and a 400W bulb CMH Retro-white with correct results (organic of course).

My project is to make a lamp for mothers with 12 CREE XML2-U2-4C + 3 LUXEON LXM3 PD01 deep red top bin, driven at 700mA. I calculated 39.5 Volts max if I'm not mistaken (about 28 watts). Not too much power so they do not grow too fast, just keep healthy and possibly for seedlings and cuttings.

I'm looking for a driver (encapsulated if possible) with a high efficiency and dimmable.

If SUPRASPL or STARDUSTSAILOR are in the area, their feedback is appreciated very much.
I'm confused, if anyone has any knowledge electronics, ca will help me enormously.
All comments on this choice of LEDs for vegging are welcome. thanks.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
FranJan, I don't think the BML SPYDR is over priced

Unlike panels built into one chassis, the SPYDR has 6 individual bars, each articulates and can be pushed together for veg then spread up to 3ft for flowering. Osram 3w diodes and a huge MeanWell driver, plus the fact that you can choose your own spectrums, well to a point anyway

Now that said, I will be testing a new comers 260w panel, which he says competes with the BML umole wise over a 3ft square area for ~ $600
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Interesting

However, when getting 3 (~ $300) I think there are much better options- Onyx, A51 and quite possibly a new comer that i will be getting soon. Designed by an mj grower for mj growers. I have followed several test grows on other sites. Sworn to secrecy, but won't be long now

Very promising
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
Damn, they are finally getting their act together

Someone should pony up.

I have new mfg panels coming soon.

No more room here
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Looking at the C3x3 675w Vipar unit. They say they use top-bin LEDs but don't mention the make. They use the 5w diodes. You seem to know your stuff, can you tell me what "top-bin" means and can they still be shit depending maker?
 
Bad Karma

Bad Karma

Well-Known Member
DonPetro said:
Looking at the C3x3 675w Vipar unit. They say they use top-bin LEDs but don't mention the make. They use the 5w diodes. You seem to know your stuff, can you tell me what "top-bin" means and can they still be shit depending maker?
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Top-bin basically means high quality, the higher the bin, the higher the quality. Cree would be considered a top bin diode manufacture, as where another company like Epistar would be considered a mid to lower bin diode maker. Last I heard, Vipar was using Epistar, which isn't exactly bad, but it's far from the best.
 
smokey the cat

smokey the cat

Well-Known Member
Kraamm said:
Hi fellow growers, I'm french and speaks little English, sorry.

I grow in a box 4 * 4 * 6.6 with AAW and a 400W bulb CMH Retro-white with correct results (organic of course).

My project is to make a lamp for mothers with 12 CREE XML2-U2-4C + 3 LUXEON LXM3 PD01 deep red top bin, driven at 700mA. I calculated 39.5 Volts max if I'm not mistaken (about 28 watts). Not too much power so they do not grow too fast, just keep healthy and possibly for seedlings and cuttings.

I'm looking for a driver (encapsulated if possible) with a high efficiency and dimmable.

If SUPRASPL or STARDUSTSAILOR are in the area, their feedback is appreciated very much.
I'm confused, if anyone has any knowledge electronics, ca will help me enormously.
All comments on this choice of LEDs for vegging are welcome. thanks.
Click to expand...
I'm planning a smaller mother/clone box too. I'm thinking I will just use XML2 whites. I don't think you'll see any benefit to adding reds to a veg light.

COB chips like CXA would be a little easier to wire together - one or two COBs might be enough for your canopy. Though obviously 2 cobs wont spread light like a 15 smaller LED stars will.

For encapsulated dimming LED drivers I use MeanWell - this USA retailer has a really nice page laying out the voltage and current options for the LPF series which might help you narrow your search. http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/power-supply-lpf-dimmable.shtml

For 40V of LED @ 800mA with 28W total power the models LPF-40D-48 will work - it'll put out 840mA and power up to 48V. Other versions of the 40D driver offer slightly different volt and current options.

Planning a 28W mother chamber means you could almost use a slightly smaller 25W driver. LPF-25D-36 - up to 36V @ 700mA.


Supra's thread here
https://www.rollitup.org/t/diy-leds-how-to-power-them.801554/ - has a lot of useful info about powering LEDs. Mainly using COB chips, but it's all pretty similar.
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
@PetFlora

Greengenes707 said:
BML- http://www.bmlhorticulture.com
I talked for a long time with nick...awesome dude. Great business man, and seems to be making a solid product. They are making everything on site as far as housing and aluminum. I can't remember the drivers. But Osram chips...he was claiming over 50% efficient with the 660nm . They test each batch that comes in. His had a better fV than the spec sheet we use, so that is why he told me.
There are some perforce things about the lights that aren't perfect to me but still is a really nice light. Specifically the spyder 1000. The problem is defiantly heat though...the bars are hot as hell to the touch on the 600 and 1000...I would assume that even a single bar is going to get that hot. But they are getting a great even spread and has some adjustability as far as tilting the bars. Intesity isn't quite there like I like to see(I have high intensity standards), but the evenness is there.
Spyder 1000 growmax, and spyder 600 in basically the "petflora" spectrum
View attachment 3220240 View attachment 3220239
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Where does GG mention price? maybe one of his vids?
I do however see mention of the heat problem again... not a sign of a well designed product.
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
epic, why don't you go to their site for the answers you seek?

IMO, if they thought heat would be a problem they would have designed it differently

That a simple tweak like incorporating a fan instead a bunch of crappy and noisy computer fans that will likely fail long before the leds, ala most panels, to gain even BETTER PAR is a no-brainer to me

The Corvette has several models, each more hp than the base model. Would you say the base model is a poor design?
 
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FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
PetFlora I just like to point out your hypocricy, ignorance and lies. You're a tool and being a good personable human means dick when it comes to designing a great LED panel. They say Pol Pot was a wonderful person when he wasn't killing millions. And are you still selling those dirt pills to dog owners? Your a joke now you do know that? And I would never be jealous of a useless tool as yourself. Now go cry to Sunni.
 
Scotch089

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
That a simple tweak like incorporating a fan instead a bunch of crappy and noisy computer fans that will likely fail long before the leds, ala most panels, to gain even BETTER PAR is a no-brainer to me
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The fact of the matter is you shouldn't be obligated to modify the design by adding a TWELVE inch fan, hell I don't even have space to add a 12" fan and frankly id be pissed if I had to.

And noisy computer fans? Computers are used in a living space- if you are using a LOUD fan than you picked the wrong one for what your trying to do. 18db is loud?? And if they were worried about getting better "par numbers" they would have implemented fans I properly cool the bars. Since as you've stated- cooling them increases efficiency=better/more dissipation. And if the designer did their job right- didnt drive the fans too hard, the fans should last as long as the panel itself, eh?

My point is, you shouldn't have to add shit to get the output ou want- and that alone is enough to say "meh, I'm good." Then to tack on someone who didnt even pay for the panel is advertising like THAT'S how they were given it, because thats the demeanor that comes off- for christs sake you havnt even gotten your OTHER FREE light and your praising it like a damn salesman in SAMs Club trying toget ppl to sign up for Direct TV. And to mention that since that IS how you got it- why should anyone take your word? You're just holding up your end of the bargain. An again, to dig YOURSELF deeper- you press it on anyone every opportunity you get. Noo... I'm not a fan of being sold.
 
epicfail

epicfail

Well-Known Member
PetFlora said:
FranJan, I don't think the BML SPYDR is over priced
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FranJan said:
Of course not, ya didn't pay or work for the fuckin' thing :dunce:.
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PetFlora said:
Your prejudice is showing, and maybe jealousy too

See GreenGenes comments on them after meeting Nick at the show
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I thought you were pointing out GG said something about the price (or value) that maybe I missed. Unless he did, you bringing him into the conversation when he didn't mention the price at all is an invalid argument. It is an overpriced unit for the value you get compared to other options out there. I'm sure when they make a second version it will be better, as long as they keep the same price point. Both the BML and the ONYX seem like good companies and their lights have potential but were not designed for cannabis (hans and a51 were). I can't wait to see what their second versions will be like.
 
subb

subb

Well-Known Member
Hey guys,

So I've got a 6' box that I'm in the process of turning into a perpetual scrog or sog (not sure which route yet)

Flower chamber is 4' high x 2' x 1.5'
Mother/clone/veg chamber is just 2' high x 2' x 1.5'

Right now I have an Area 51 RW-75 in the flower chamber. I had planned on getting 4x Cree floodlights, the 3000k 18w ones and sticking them in the corners. However, I am unsure of what angle to get, I believe you can get 27 or 47 degrees. Any suggestions on that front? What about mixing in a 2700k bulb as well? I am willing to get better supplemental lighting if necessary.

For veg I had planned on sticking with CFLs, but my new LED mania has me wanting to replace all lights with LED. So I am pretty unsure of what to do for that tiny space.

My original plan was to go perpetual SoG, but I am leaning toward perpetual Scrog now, although I'm not sure. Scrog plan is to simply to keep a bonsai mother in there, take a clone about once every 30 days, veg it under a scrog screen and slap it in the flower chamber (veg chamber would be partitioned off so the bonsai doesn't get all the veg light). There would basically be 3 scrog screens, each one 1 foot wide, so 2 scrog screens/plants are in the flower chamber at all times, 30 days apart, and one vegging in the bottom chamber.

I'm at a loss of what to do for veg. My immediate thought was to partition the veg chamber and give the mother a low wattage LED, enough to stay healthy and produce a clone a month. The other side I would add as much light as I could fit for the upcoming Scrog. I wanted to use the new Cree bulbs at home depot, but I'm really not sure which ones to use, or how many watts to keep that bonsai healthy but not growing too fast, and an appropriate bulb(s) for the veg chamber.

What do you guys think? I know veg space is really tight and I don't know how far away these Cree bulbs need to be. My other thought was to NOT keep a mother plant but stagger the clones. So I would clone my plant, veg it under the screen, then take a clone from this plant before going into flower and veg that, just keep cloning the clones essentially. OR I can just keep a bonsai mother in there and take a few extra clones and go for a SoG. I was leaning away from SoG mostly because I thought I would get a better yield with a nice horizontal canopy than vertical colas with LED.

So, any help with the supplemental lighting in addition to my RW-75 in flower as well as any suggestions on what to do for my veg chamber and the appropriate LEDs.

I've really only got one grow under my belt, it was a scrog grow in a box that was 3' high x 2' x 1.5 (basically half my current box height) and got about 2oz from a Northern Lights plant using a 150w HPS + 2x 125w CFLs.

My main goal is to yield about an ounce a month, if that is doable. Strictly for personal medication.

Any help would be highly appreciated! There are multiple different Cree bulbs, watts, etc, I just don't know what would be best. Thanks so much guys. Sorry for the wall of text!

edit: Here's a quick pic of my unfinished box so far, but these are the base dimensions.



P.S. that horizontal fold in the panda film on the back wall, if you can see it, that's about how far my canopy needs to be from the RW-75 (it can get a couple inches closer, though, I believe) if that helps anything :P
 
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PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
FranJan said:
PetFlora I just like to point out your hypocricy, ignorance and lies. You're a tool and being a good personable human means dick when it comes to designing a great LED panel. They say Pol Pot was a wonderful person when he wasn't killing millions. And are you still selling those dirt pills to dog owners? Your a joke now you do know that? And I would never be jealous of a useless tool as yourself. Now go cry to Sunni.
Click to expand...

If you have something to say just come out with it, why beat around the bush?

The one thing I feel confident of, if you had the SPYDR to use, your attitude would be 180*s opposite of your jealous little bitch attitude

That aside, I love you man
 
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