you will need air exchange LED bulbs or CFLs are the way to go with that setup on addition to a scrog screen so you can train the plant to it and keep it from getting to close to the light. leds would be the way to go but cfls aren't a bad option. 135w led would be overkill you probably need about 60w of light in there cfl or led.
I just saw someone else do something similar with a AT. It is not 2008...led's are just as intense if not more than any hps's out there now. Specially when you are buying the bests light(Apache and A51). They do it from the same height, so it is not some kind of marketing trick. They are not messing around when they tell you the hanging height. Those heights are recommended so that at that height the canopy will be receiving the optimal light(700µmols-1200µmols)...which is intense even for full flower.
I don't know about that one. Everytime I try to go on the page for that bulb on Philips site it takes forever to load and before it finishes loading I get kicked offline.... Dammit Obama.....These intrigue me because they have a decent lumens/watt rating and if that globe is just a diffuser, and not a remote phosphor, then you could remove it for a bit more light. Also if it's not using CREEs tower design they may be better for our needs. But there really is only one way to know. Also the EcoSmart brand use CREE diodes in some of their bulbs.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-10-5-Watt-60-Watt-A19-Bright-White-3000K-Household-LED-Light-Bulb-4-Pack-429381/203667330
yes there are many brands some will need the outer dome removed. but some of these this cant be done with because the leds inside are deep blue/UVA colored and there is a phosphor coating inside the dome like flouro. although witht that said, that does not make them bad lights, their color rendering is very good, but the output of lumens is less, therefore it would take more of these to achieve the brightness of less direct led bulbs.
you can usually tell by the lumen output, if it is just a diffuser, it will be more than it counterpart.(per watt)
not true. kelvin is an inadequate system that measures the overall look of light and not the peaks of light specific colors of the spectrum that makes up the light they produce. any kelvin light is potentially useful.Looking at that some more, 3k is at the borderline for flowering, isn't it? I was always taught that the 3-4k was useless
Nice! I don't think you will be disappointed with the Cree's. Mixing is fine, I couldn't find the 5k's around me in stock, so I will use my 4000k/4500k cfl's to mix it up. Though I am tempted to just jam 10 bulbs into my space and call it a day.
I'm excited to use the Crees...so much easier to deal maybe having to add heat rather than reduce heat. My CFL grows always ran kinda hot.Nice! I don't think you will be disappointed with the Cree's. Mixing is fine, I couldn't find the 5k's around me in stock, so I will use my 4000k/4500k cfl's to mix it up. Though I am tempted to just jam 10 bulbs into my space and call it a day.
These things put out no damn heat at all it's ridiculous.
Last: my opinion is LST, with practice you can get the same results as scrog easily. I started with pointers from bonsai books....but of course it isn't hard to bend and tie down a plant without experience either. But every bit helps
Thanks for the reply FranJan,
Check out Chronikool's threads. He uses different LED spotlights and bulbs from all over. I think he could help you figure out what you need. Just don't buy that Mars panel
. (That's a joke you'll understand soon.)
No it has some CREE chips in it. For that money buy a panel from these guys and get a panel that's actually packed with CREEs.
Nice nice, but do you have a whole kit just for Domination???I'm excited to use the Crees...so much easier to deal maybe having to add heat rather than reduce heat. My CFL grows always ran kinda hot.
And as for LST, I firmly believe in tying all my bitches down
I thought they were coming for me. (I live in the country, I ​never hear them)