IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

Positivity said:

wow..thats a lot of stars. Did about 80 once, takes some time but not too bad.

Little confusing how you wrote that up but I'll give it a try.

So the driver 36-60v...You need at least 36v and no more than 60v basically. Assuming the drivers specs are accurate. You need to look at the place you purchased your leds and see what the typical current is for that led at 650 or 700ma. Say its 2.5v....60/2.5 = 24. You can put at the most 24 leds. If the string is dim or doesn't light you may need to remove a few or check with a multimeter what the voltage actually is.

Same process for the 33-68v...

Wire them in series. Positive from driver to positive on star. negative on that star to the positive on the next until you end up with a negative out on the last star to the driver negative. Thats it...

When you use a better brand of driver like meanwell you can count on the driver specs to be accurate and they will normally light up every time if you calculated the leds total voltage right

Click to expand...

mauricem00 said:

on each driver you will need to wire atleast the minimum number of leds in series (12 or more for the 12-18 and 18 or more for the 18-30 going below this minimum number on each driver may cause your leds to flash rather then light continuously. going over the maximum number will cause the same thing . you may also want to add some cool white diodes to help reduce stretching and produce healthier plants.

Click to expand...

justghost said:

been eyeing this light for some hours now. what you all think of the Budmaster product line?

especially this, http://www.budmaster.co.uk/budmaster-ii-uk-cob-x-1.html

had just received my marshydro 130w earlier, so i'ma see how that goes

Click to expand...

hod928 said:

What would be the best driver/light set up for a 2x2x4 tent. Im on the border of using either a 250w HPS or building my own LED light.

Click to expand...

vano1500 said:

I am a new grower up in Washington state and have a 9,000 square foot aeroponic facility. Now switching over to LED. Just ordered some star chips to go with the oslon SSL 80* Hyper-red 660nm. Our 4' by 4' area will be lit up by 414 LEDs. To go with the Hyper red we are mixing some 3000k warm white for the all around healthy pigments. Each row will run on it's own 2 drivers. 1 driver will run the whites and 1 for the reds. Each row will contain 36 lights... 70% red and the rest white. there is a total of 12 rows, can add or take off easily because of the design. Our team has got the price of the LEDs, stars, drivers, and heatsinks down to... 1044.00. Wanted to share what we were thinking... Any advise or improvements you have?

Click to expand...

vano1500 said:

I am a new grower up in Washington state and have a 9,000 square foot aeroponic facility. Now switching over to LED. Just ordered some star chips to go with the oslon SSL 80* Hyper-red 660nm. Our 4' by 4' area will be lit up by 414 LEDs. To go with the Hyper red we are mixing some 3000k warm white for the all around healthy pigments. Each row will run on it's own 2 drivers. 1 driver will run the whites and 1 for the reds. Each row will contain 36 lights... 70% red and the rest white. there is a total of 12 rows, can add or take off easily because of the design. Our team has got the price of the LEDs, stars, drivers, and heatsinks down to... 1044.00. Wanted to share what we were thinking... Any advise or improvements you have?

Click to expand...

PurpleBuz said:

what white leds are you using ? By the number of chips (414 leds for a 4x4 dang!) I assume your not using cobs, why not ?[/QUOTE

Heat. He have great HVAC because of the design of HPS. Trying to get 660nm as close to the plants as possible as this will save on optics and increase density. If I use COBs, there is more power and heat. I am using 2700k oslon ssl 150 degrees as an all around health pigment, including the 10 percent blue. Happen to be a current student and have been taking advantage of my professors and the scholar journals to make an educated decision. If there is anything you are thinking, let me know. thanks for the reply.

Click to expand...

pop22 said:

If your running a commercial grow-op, where the hell you get time to build DIY lights?? I'm all for DIY but I see no sense in messing with it in a business setting. buy some BML Sypdrs and have the benefit of a warranty and tech support, AND a full tax write off.

Click to expand...

hod928 said:

What would be the best driver/light set up for a 2x2x4 tent. Im on the border of using either a 250w HPS or building my own LED light.

Click to expand...

vano1500 said:

Heat. He have great HVAC because of the design of HPS. Trying to get 660nm as close to the plants as possible as this will save on optics and increase density. If I use COBs, there is more power and heat. I am using 2700k oslon ssl 150 degrees as an all around health pigment, including the 10 percent blue. Happen to be a current student and have been taking advantage of my professors and the scholar journals to make an educated decision. If there is anything you are thinking, let me know. thanks for the reply.

Click to expand...

PurpleBuz said:

ahhh I get it. In that case I would have deployed either vero18s or cxb3070 warm whites and run them at very low currents (500 - 700ma). maybe 16 cobs plus 16 660nm stars. assembling 32 pieces sure beats 414

Click to expand...

vano1500 said:

We want to do better than the spydr 1200. we know we can... by doing better and doing it ourselves we save 160,000.00.

Click to expand...

vano1500 said:

thanks for the info! all I am solid on right now is the oslon ssl hyper reds. I will put the numbers for efficiency/cost and see how to best integrate white lights. Have any idea of what the thermal resistance would be on these COBs? wanna keep heat sinks uniform and inexpensive.

Click to expand...

tripleD said:

In order to be able to SAVE that much you must be figuring that you were going to need at least 100 spydr 1200's but realistically probably more like 160 since I'm sure an order of that size wld qualify you for a significant discount & even then you wld have to be able to build them yourself for almost nothing in order to save that amount of $$$.... Or am I missing sum thing????
I have the spydr 600 myself & I absolutely love it!

Click to expand...

vano1500 said:

3 fruiting rooms, a total of 80 4' by 4' grow pods. that includes our 2 R&D rooms. We build for 1000 vs paying 3000. get a better product. 80 * 3000 = 240,000. 80 * 1000 = 80,000. 240,000 - 80,000 = 160,000. Now I know that we would get a huge discount but the product is big enough and doesn't have the spectrum of light I want.

Click to expand...