_MrBelvedere_
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up. What meanwell driver will run four or five 4CXA's?
Is 4cxA more efficient than 4cxB? What driver do you recommend for 4cxB?
Is a pwm dimmer more efficient than a linear pot?
Thx!
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- Thread starter SnotBoogie
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Thanks for the heads up. What meanwell driver will run four or five 4CXA's?
Is 4cxA more efficient than 4cxB? What driver do you recommend for 4cxB?
Is a pwm dimmer more efficient than a linear pot?
Thx!
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
As of today, there is no driver to run 4 cxA's at 50w in series. But that driver you have(hlg185h-c700) will run 4 cxB3590(72v) at 50w each. Or 3 cxA's or 3 vero29's.
Long story short the cxB's have slightly lower Vf and can fit perfectly...as where with the original cxA, they were just a bit too much Vf. Kind of a goldilocks of driver stories.
_MrBelvedere_
Well-Known Member
thanks again! what driver do you recommend to run 4 or 5 3590's? Is 3590 still the best bang for the buck with cree? I will buy another set based on what you recommend.
also, is pwm more efficient at dimming leds than a regular pot?
Thx
also, is pwm more efficient at dimming leds than a regular pot?
Thx
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
You have it all right in your head, 3590@50w is the best bang for the $...except the cxB is what is the best. The cxA is the old cxB. Newer is better in this case.
For the cxA's you have you could run all 4 at 43W with a 600ma version of http://lsdpower.com/en/pro_show.asp?id=90.
Then use the meanwell for if/when you get cxB's.
Super underdriving is the only reason to use a cxA these days if you have the super price hook up. Otherwise it should be cxB's only is my opinion.
Dimming
no, either method will result in the same driver efficiency:load characteristic.
_MrBelvedere_
Well-Known Member
thanks, I will return the CXa ones and exchange them for CXb. How many 3590CXb's will the HLG-185H-C700A driver run?
I am building my light on a piece of aluminum U-channel like this:
The initial design is to mount
the COBs directly to the underside of the U-Channel like this:
I have an AGPtek Thermometer Thermocouple Sensor so I can measure the operating temperature of the COBs using this design. Do you think they will run too hot with that 8 foot U-Channel heat sink? I will have a Hurricane wall fan blowing directly on the light during lights on to keep it cool. If the thermocouple thermometer is reading that the temps are too high on the COB, my plan B is to use this style of heat sink (see below) sandwiched in between the COB and the U-Channel.... My room temperatures never exceed 80 degrees by the way. Think it will it work without needing this secondary heat sink?
I am building my light on a piece of aluminum U-channel like this:
The initial design is to mount
the COBs directly to the underside of the U-Channel like this:
I have an AGPtek Thermometer Thermocouple Sensor so I can measure the operating temperature of the COBs using this design. Do you think they will run too hot with that 8 foot U-Channel heat sink? I will have a Hurricane wall fan blowing directly on the light during lights on to keep it cool. If the thermocouple thermometer is reading that the temps are too high on the COB, my plan B is to use this style of heat sink (see below) sandwiched in between the COB and the U-Channel.... My room temperatures never exceed 80 degrees by the way. Think it will it work without needing this secondary heat sink?
Boppa
Active Member
looking for a meter to check out how much light is getting where and am a little confused as to what ot buy.
Lux, lumins,par UMOLs/m2?
not sure what unit of measurement is best for LED lights, or for tweaking my lights to the betterment of my plants.
Researh show me that conversion factors may not be accurate.
Price is always a concern, but would rather spend $150 and get something that works than spend $30 and have it be useless...
Opinions based on your experience would be welcome.
thanks
Lux, lumins,par UMOLs/m2?
not sure what unit of measurement is best for LED lights, or for tweaking my lights to the betterment of my plants.
Researh show me that conversion factors may not be accurate.
Price is always a concern, but would rather spend $150 and get something that works than spend $30 and have it be useless...
Opinions based on your experience would be welcome.
thanks
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
http://rollitup.org/t/new-usb-par-sensor-from-apogee.888247/#post-12016525
Do you have a multi-meter? Apogee also makes a less than $150 attachment.....otherwise go with the Apogee and some Richard-Head just correlated some correction factors too I believe using the Apogee for their methods... in the Vero thread.
Maybe you should read up on how light is measured between a LUX meter and PAR meter. That helps figure out WHY, you would want to switch between either two...Although, the PAR gets you there faster.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
torontoke
Well-Known Member
Any of you guys know how big of an area a 3070cxb covers?
I'm still in the initial drawing stage and would like to mount them the correct optimal distance apart.
I'm planning to use 5 in an x pattern.
Probably going to use material to make it adjustable but rough numbers will help save a few hours.
I'm still in the initial drawing stage and would like to mount them the correct optimal distance apart.
I'm planning to use 5 in an x pattern.
Probably going to use material to make it adjustable but rough numbers will help save a few hours.
Snaddehat
Well-Known Member
If i remember correctly, the bare COB's spread the light at a 115-120 degree angle. You can use lenses and/or reflectors to focus the light and adjust to your growspace.
BM9AGS
Well-Known Member
Ran at 10watts each=under kill
Ran at 100 watts each=over kill
Steban
New Member
I am curious as to why the Lumia 5.2 plant version would 2x less lumens per watt if in the 70-100 range (which I can't find documentation on) where as the CXA3590's are only at 134 lumen per watt max http://www.cree.com/News-and-Events/Cree-News/Press-Releases/2013/October/CXA3590-and-3070-intro
Again I am interested in using this chip for a single or dual plant setup and like that way individual wavelengths can be tuned and the built in cycle controller. Wondering if anyone has used this chip for small numbers of plants and what results they have achieved.
I know its a bit expensive but its new and hard to find much documentation on it atm.
Any suggestions or info is appreciated.
That link is pretty cool, didnt know you can do that I just noticed the link. I read what supra said about the two voltages 36 for running soft and 72 for running them harder. Thanks.
Just found out why its better to run them @49 with 16. Someone recommended 16 but from heavenbrite their 5x5 unit only has 8 cobs so I wasn't sure.
JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
8 or 9 CXB3590s in a 5x5 ran 75 to 100 watts to each would work best IMO
16 could be run if your putting 50watt to each
That would save me some money and weight on overall unit. I was thinking 3x3 for a total of 9 3590s. Do you get better light penetration that way since the LEDs are brighter? If I ran those cobs at those wattages, can I expect them to work a couple years if used only for flower?
JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
I would use 4 CXB3590s 100watts each with optic for 3x3. That's just my opinion because there are ton different ways to setup.
Yes IMO COB ran at higher wattages have better penetration and can be ran 20 to24in from canopy and underdriven need to be put 12 to 14inches to get same type intensity canopy. Just my opinion though
Yes IMO CXB/Meanwell will give you the durability/performance for more than 2yrs.
The high quality built fixtures have warranties that cover for longer than that.
Hi, Jimmy sorry I meant a 3x3 configuration for the 9 lights. Its going in a 5x5 space. In a few years these cobs will be old news anyway. Is there a way to run 3 drivers @3 per driver?
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