I think my plants are preflowering too early, what can I do?

HapaHaole

Well-Known Member
No it didn't lol but the guy has been growing a long time... do you think it would be better to do the 24/0 or the 18/6?
24/0 if you can deal with the electrical charges and if you need to save a LITTLE... go 18/6. Which ever you choose pah-leese stay with that light schedule or ur ladies will grow NADS! (maybe) ewwww... lol
 

lahadaextranjera

Well-Known Member
What you've done is the perfect practice for sexing plants. You take clones and put them on 12 hrs to see what they are. However like the others said, you should whack them with 24/0 then 18/6 before 12:12 if you want to flower this plant properly.
 

kermit2692

Well-Known Member
didnt she say it was a clone? so ya it can show maturity at 6inches, and if you have access to clones honestly id get more and just trash or bud out the little guys u already had on 12/12..will take way too long to go back to veg your better off starting over if its inside or just letting them continue if you have a seperate veg/ flower spot as this will help you learn the process before sacrificing large real plants. also what shes done is not perfect practice for sexing plants,perfect practice for sexing plants is waiting for preflowers!!force flowering for sex is impatience at its best and unnecesary. if its a clone it was an unecesary practice anyway as it should have been female already. let me just take out the guess work for you....put plant in dirt, no delayed release crap. fox farm happy frog is good. make sure the pot is large enough, a 5 gallon cheap bucket with some holes in the bottom is perfect from any hardware store. light is on at least 18 hours on a timer so the time its on and off is the same everyday, wait til it gets about 2 ft tall and then take the light down to 12 hours on the timer. flower with a 400 watt hps at least or you will yield very little. that is it for light and dirt and pot size. water every 2-4 days (whenever the top of soil starts getting dry)you will have to water more in flower because the heat from the light evaporates the water faster. feed nutes once a week same day, give or take one, every week. the water needs to have sat out for two days to evaporate the chlorine and the easiest thing to do for nutes since you dont know about all this yet is to buy the technaflora starter kit and mix exactly how the flyer in the pack says for whatever week you are on. the recipe will change slightly when you go to flower but the flyer is easy to understand. that is all for water and nutes. when you hit 56days of flowering thats 8 weeks, some strains are done then and some later but about a week and a half to two before you think its done you stop feeding and start flushing, after the week to two is up the plant will look yellow crappy and dead kinda but the bud will look phenomenal, this is when you harvest. their are many more variations such as two days dark right before harvest that you can experiment with but this is a basic outline that if followed you will not fail. keep in mind most ppl do fail on the first grow though so dont be defeated by that...um lemme see, mylar on the walls is good but costs 35 bucks or so, training the plant with some string is good, if the soil compacts through time add a little to the top, absolutely no light can get in during dark periods of flowering or your plant will seed...idk its late thats what comes to mind to help for now...feel free to pm me any questions, i can help with for sure answers and it gets annoying asking questions and hearing 5 different answers personally lol. so if you want one answer that will for sure work just ask!!
 

ddimebag

Active Member
Pre-flowering isn't flowering. when a plant is mature enough to start flowering, given the right light schedule it will make "pre-flowers" - a couple of very small, underdeveloped flowers. it wont make buds until it gets 12 hours of darkness. pre flowering is a normal part of vegging, and can go on as long as you want without actually flowering. Hence, there is no such thing as pre-flowering too early. it just means you have vigorous plants that are old enough to flower, i you wish, or can be vegged further until the time is deemed right.
 

badmojo420

Well-Known Member
didnt she say it was a clone? so ya it can show maturity at 6inches, and if you have access to clones honestly id get more and just trash or bud out the little guys u already had on 12/12..will take way too long to go back to veg your better off starting over if its inside or just letting them continue if you have a seperate veg/ flower spot as this will help you learn the process before sacrificing large real plants. also what shes done is not perfect practice for sexing plants,perfect practice for sexing plants is waiting for preflowers!!force flowering for sex is impatience at its best and unnecesary. if its a clone it was an unecesary practice anyway as it should have been female already. let me just take out the guess work for you....put plant in dirt, no delayed release crap. fox farm happy frog is good. make sure the pot is large enough, a 5 gallon cheap bucket with some holes in the bottom is perfect from any hardware store. light is on at least 18 hours on a timer so the time its on and off is the same everyday, wait til it gets about 2 ft tall and then take the light down to 12 hours on the timer. flower with a 400 watt hps at least or you will yield very little. that is it for light and dirt and pot size. water every 2-4 days (whenever the top of soil starts getting dry)you will have to water more in flower because the heat from the light evaporates the water faster. feed nutes once a week same day, give or take one, every week. the water needs to have sat out for two days to evaporate the chlorine and the easiest thing to do for nutes since you dont know about all this yet is to buy the technaflora starter kit and mix exactly how the flyer in the pack says for whatever week you are on. the recipe will change slightly when you go to flower but the flyer is easy to understand. that is all for water and nutes. when you hit 56days of flowering thats 8 weeks, some strains are done then and some later but about a week and a half to two before you think its done you stop feeding and start flushing, after the week to two is up the plant will look yellow crappy and dead kinda but the bud will look phenomenal, this is when you harvest. their are many more variations such as two days dark right before harvest that you can experiment with but this is a basic outline that if followed you will not fail. keep in mind most ppl do fail on the first grow though so dont be defeated by that...um lemme see, mylar on the walls is good but costs 35 bucks or so, training the plant with some string is good, if the soil compacts through time add a little to the top, absolutely no light can get in during dark periods of flowering or your plant will seed...idk its late thats what comes to mind to help for now...feel free to pm me any questions, i can help with for sure answers and it gets annoying asking questions and hearing 5 different answers personally lol. so if you want one answer that will for sure work just ask!!


Just like to throw this out there, you can pick up mylar in the form of Emergency Blankets at Walmart for $5-7, probably even cheaper, in the camping section.
 

colonuggs

Well-Known Member
The first response I got generally went with the information that I've been getting from others who have been growing a lot longer. It won't hurt me to try putting it back in the veg stage like I've been advised instead of trying to flower a 6-inch plant. I'll let you know how it goes.
The plant might start off flowering at 6 inches tall... depending on the strain..... it could end up being 18 inches tall when finished

My ECSD I start flowering at 10 inches and I end up with 30 inch tall plants
 

kermit2692

Well-Known Member
Just like to throw this out there, you can pick up mylar in the form of Emergency Blankets at Walmart for $5-7, probably even cheaper, in the camping section.
eh you probably wind up buying two or three and at that point may as well buy a roll of mylar that will last much longer...also its easier to hang mylar and mylar isnt as thick so im guessing heat dispersion would be better with mylar..just my opinion..id rather go with the right tool for the job instead of making my own
 
Well I've had it on the 24/0 light schedule since Monday morning. Ill just be playing the waiting game for the next few weeks and see if they're still growing the way they were before. I'm definitely going to get a few more clones but I'm not going to give up just yet. Has anyone tried using an LED light. Is there any real difference in the yield?
 

kermit2692

Well-Known Member
if you mean an led for flowering then yes big yield difference, hid is the ONLY way to go for flowering..granted ive seen a select few pull it off but thats very uncommon. go with the hps anything less is a waste of time effort and money..i understand it might be hard to justify dropping money on the light if you are new to the hobby which is why i grew outside first but its truly the only way you will yield well indoors, without the hid your buds will also be super airy and thin
 

badmojo420

Well-Known Member
if you mean an led for flowering then yes big yield difference, hid is the ONLY way to go for flowering..granted ive seen a select few pull it off but thats very uncommon. go with the hps anything less is a waste of time effort and money..i understand it might be hard to justify dropping money on the light if you are new to the hobby which is why i grew outside first but its truly the only way you will yield well indoors, without the hid your buds will also be super airy and thin

i personally disagree with this statement. LEDs can produce some serious buds. Of course itll never be that of a HPS system but saying youll get thin airy buds with LEDs is just wrong, supposing you know what your doing.

Ive even seen some pretty decent buds pulled with CFLs.
 

kermit2692

Well-Known Member
omg this is why i said if u like you can pm me everyone wants to negate the next guy on here...i said hps is the way to go, and this is especially true for a first timer, most ppl will get airier buds with anything but an hid system and thats fact, i did also say in their though that a select few have mastered it and make it work so for you to say supposing you know what your doing is the exact same as saying a few ppl have pulled it off because guess what, only a few ppl no what they are doing with leds!...but the general rule is your going to get a significantly higher yield and more solid buds with an hid system thats just a fact..even those guys making it work for them will yield more off of an hid if they swapped one in. ive also seen some pretty decent buds pulled off cfl but guess what im not wasting months of time for pretty good...and anyway you agreed with me you said yourself nothing compares to an hps which was my whole point!
 
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