I have no idea :(

American420

New Member
Howdy. First off, thanks for clicking to delve into my issues, i think ive already have a post and the first line is almost a generic copy.

I have an indoor grow going in my guest bedroom closet.
First a little history. I started with about 8 plants, but after weeding out males, it was a fifty fifty split. I was down to four females. After a few months of vegging on two 60 watt CFL (5600K-ish), i added a third bulb that was much warmer (2700K). I know the light situation isnt optimal, but im planning on adding another flowering bulb (the 2700K) when i can afford it.
I started running into issues towards the tail end of the vegging period. Some of the same symptoms youll see in the pics ahead, with lower tier sets of leaves dying, browning around the edges on some, and brown spots on others (this symptom was all the way to the top), and just a general, slow death.
Skip ahead another couple months and im down to two plants now. The buds are just starting to grow, one plant still seems in good health and the other is starting to show... something.
Ive done a few outdoor harvests, but this is my first indoor grow so please excuse any blatant mistakes.

Some facts:
I used a miracle grow potting soil and same brand perlite. It has a light nutrient content and even that is just a little added N-P-K.
I use tap water, but the water is too base (around 8.0), so i have some pH Down and pH strips to ensure its neutral. I water on a bi-daily basis, when the dirt is dry on top, I give it a soak. There's holes on the bottom, so i have plates to hold some of the water in, I'm considering adding those watering bulbs (supposed to release water when the soil drys out)
The walls are taped with... mylar sheets? i cant remember what its called, but its for hydro growing and its supposed to reflect 98% of the light.
I use Better Gro Orchard Plus for veg and Orchard Better Bloom (11-35-11, plus minors) for blooming and that's about once a week to a week and a half.
The light schedule was 18/6 for vegging and now its 12/12 for flowering. Using a mechanical timer but it doesnt seem precise enough so im going to upgrade to a digital one when funds are available. And again, i have two 60 watt CFL at 5600K or 6500K and one 60 watt CFL at 2700K, and also again, i know its not very much, but im trying to keep the power bill down and at the same time, cant afford any more lights at this moment.

And if its worth noting, the bushier plant had to be topped as it grew too tall past the lights.
Without further adieu, some pics

This is the setup. I try to keep the blooming light in the middle. The bushy, healthier, and also topped plant, is Plant A, which is on the left. Plant B, is on the right, which is the one whom is suffering the most,
20150813_132945.jpg This is Plant A in the light 20150813_133003.jpg Close up of Plant A leaf. 20150813_133027.jpg Also on Plant A, these two symptoms are sporadic, but just being present is enough to make me freak. 20150813_133126.jpg This is Plant B 20150813_133207.jpg Also Plant B 20150813_133215.jpg And one more Plant B 20150813_133309.jpg

The preview didnt show the pictures, so apologies if the thread is sloppy, but any help it highly appreciated.
 

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pope creek

Active Member
but you are feeding her rubbish. IMHO.
That's a lot of strong chemical fertilizer in a small pot. Plant just cant cope.
 

American420

New Member
I don't think it's overwatering, if anything, I might be letting too much soil get dry before watering.
Should I flush the smaller pot out?
And what about plant A, is that normal?

And any recommendations on fert?
 

American420

New Member
Like I said guys, I don't think I'm over-watering, that soil is dry before watering, atleast a few inches of clearly dry soil,, unless you're saying to let it stay dry for a for a while.

And for the N tox, would flushing help?
 

American420

New Member
I read that N tox can mimic over watering, but to be on the lookout for the "claw" effect, followed by yellowing and then browning.
 

lfc89

Member
Its 100% N toxic look at your leaves they look like a Mexican wants to come along and put some chilli beef inside them. I would just give them a good flush let the soil dry out completely and start again and go easy on the N
 

Alexander Supertramp

Well-Known Member
You definitely have some N tox going on. You could flush, but just straight water for a week or so should do. Be sure to water until you get some decent runoff from the bottom of the pots.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
MG potting soil! How many months of food in it?

That's the issue.

Don't flush...you'll only make it worse!

Just straight water - pH to 6.5 and add a bit of Ca/Mg to it, say 2.5 -3.0 ml and do that for 7 days.....

No added nutrients to MG "timed release nightmare" soil!

Doc
 

American420

New Member
Yeah, I figured with the nute soil it might screw a flush up. I was thinking of transplanting into a bigger pot of neutral soil and while doing so, leave the root ball intact to lessen the stress. It's still very early in the flowering phase and from what Ive read, it seems like people have mixed opinions on doing that.

But thanks anyway everyone for all the advice. I was concentrating so much on a possible minor element defiency, I overlooked toxicity.
 

American420

New Member
Thanks for the advice everyone, I figured I screwed myself in the long run with MG soil.

I was thinking about transferring Plant B to a larger pot with neutral dirt in it and leaving the root ball undisturbed during the process.. After reading a bit, I've found mixed opinions on trying that.
 
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