I have a few plant issues. Please help.

RetiredMatthebrute said:

another thing worth looking into. hydro ideal PH is 5.8 and soil is like 6.5 which is a big difference

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I just read an article that said that peat moss behaves a lot more like soil than hydro so the ph should be adjusted to meet soil ph requirements.

psilocybindude said:

Hot soil means that the soil has a toxic level of nutrients in it not that the soil is to warm temperature wise, if you use to much fertilizer the plants will get nutrient burn which stunts growth and burns leaves.

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Ahhhh OK. Thanks for clearing that up.

hunter22375 said:

Am I correct about the moistening the soil idea? Would it help lower the temp or increase it at a deeper depth?



OK. I will test the PH of the soil. Also, the nutes I mentioned above....the starter pack I use...was recommended to me by my local grow shop becasue its a good beginner nute pack and its hard to over nute as long as you follow the directions in the starter pack. So, I have been using the recommended dosage stated by the pack.

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lol sorry man i tohught you knew what hot soil meant in the lingo....glad he cleared that up

never believe a dam thing the hydro guys tells you....all he see's is fresh meat coming in to empty his wallet.....

flush, PH then 1/4 str nutes in about a week....i think this will help your problem.

OK...will they be OK until tomorrow? I don't have any PH testing equip atm. I will need to get some tomorrow. Once I have gotten the PH....I will post up again. THANKS a ton guys for all the help.

psilocybindude said:

I just read an article that said that peat moss behaves a lot more like soil than hydro so the ph should be adjusted to meet soil ph requirements.

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was going to put this up but just did a factory reset on PC and am reluctant to DL anything i dont have to lol

actually im sure those plants can handle 1000 watts after all seedlings can take sunlight which is 10000 watts per square foot

Water only a couple of times. Then test feed a 1/4 strength feeding and wait. No burn then water, water and then feed 1/2 strength and wait. Repeat. Full strength after that. Plants need to harden to receiving nutrients. Do this by starting weak and GRADUALLY increase the feedings. Think of it like this: what if you had a son who tried out for football and was making it and building strength but wanted more (of course) and he went to a consultant and came back with a load of shit comparable to what most people feed and in strengths for not only an adult but one accustomed to taking high grade nutrients in levels unneeded by most. A little growth hormone for Junior at levels NFL players use, eh?

RetiredMatthebrute said:

lol sorry man i tohught you knew what hot soil meant in the lingo....

never believe a dam thing the hydro guys tells you....all he see's is fresh meat coming in to empty his wallet.....

flush, PH then 1/4 str nutes in about a week....i think this will help your problem.

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What he said, and if you cant afford a ph meter from the shop which i would recommend you can get them pretty cheap from ebay or you could get a cheap chemical pool ph tester, ph is very important though so you must get a tester.

hunter22375 said:

OK...will they be OK until tomorrow? I don't have any PH testing equip atm. I will need to get some tomorrow. Once I have gotten the PH....I will post up again. THANKS a ton guys for all the help.

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i would flush them tonight. if the soil is hot then it will continue to burn them, they arent going to die of deficiency by tomorow but they could possibly get burnt to shit so its the lesser of 2 evils.

carfull on the digital PH tester the hydro guy is going to sell you its probably garbage gor for a chemical style that you compare colors on a chart. a good place to go is the pet store and get some PH strips, then take your samples and let them soak in 1 part soil 3 parts water for around 6-8 hours stirring once after 2 hours then letting the doil settle (so you dont get it all over your strip)

or they sell a chem drop kind that i prefer, but agin it still takes around 8 hours because you have to let the soil buffer the water then settle for a few hours so you can get a acurate reading. (hard to distinguish colors when the water is cloudy with medium)

bombasticson said:

actually im sure those plants can handle 1000 watts after all seedlings can take sunlight which is 10000 watts per square foot

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yeah your right they probably can but they dont need it and its extra ambient heat that is harsher on smaller plants than bigger ones. plants that size will grow just fine at 100w and 900w is not going to make them grow any faster, cells only divide so fast,

This?

RetiredMatthebrute said:

dont listen to this guy, with the info you have provided theres no way he can diagnose a deficiency.

ph of the water you use is just dead information, the soil will buffer to whatever PH it is after a couple hours regaurdless of PH of solution u used to water/feed. if you want a usefull PH reading get a accurate PH reading of the soil, then you can correct so there is no lockout and see what elements are being locked out if the PH of the soil is off.

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OK, I was wrong. I admit it, no shame. However, the spots on the leaves looks like what I had on mine that was Potassium.
Was I wrong in saying the soil appeared dry? If I was, tell me-I am learning too.
Am I doing something useless or un-necessary when I PH my water?

Not exactly. But close. Let me post a pic. I don't think mine says advanced.

imchucky666 said:

OK, I was wrong. I admit it, no shame. However, the spots on the leaves looks like what I had on mine that was Potassium.
Was I wrong in saying the soil appeared dry? If I was, tell me-I am learning too.
Am I doing something useless or un-necessary when I PH my water?

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In soil no need to ph water soil is a buffer

RetiredMatthebrute said:

or they sell a chem drop kind that i prefer, but agin it still takes around 8 hours because you have to let the soil buffer the water then settle for a few hours so you can get a acurate reading. (hard to distinguish colors when the water is cloudy with medium)

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Heh that's the exact reason i said i don't like the chemical testers because the color of the water was always fucked, i never thought of waiting a few hours for the junk in the water to settle to the bottom so i could see the colors clearly. Also thanks for mentioning that method of testing the ph i to am having problems with my plants and i haven't been able to get an accurate ph reading because i am growing in air pots and half the water by passes the soil entirely because of the holes in the side.

Do you think you could stop in and take a look at my plant problem thread retiredmatthebrute i am having some problems and receiving all kinds of advice and I'm just not sure as to what the problem is?

Here is a pic of the bail I have.

Tht chit expensive has lime and is organic.

imchucky666 said:

OK, I was wrong. I admit it, no shame. However, the spots on the leaves looks like what I had on mine that was Potassium.
Was I wrong in saying the soil appeared dry? If I was, tell me-I am learning too.
Am I doing something useless or un-necessary when I PH my water?

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as far as the soil being dry, im just going by what he said, leaves will wilt a bit when they are thirsty and after watering them 20 min they will perk right back up. i went out to my plants after not watering for 7 days in 90+ degree weather and they were looking almost dead, watered them and went back out and they looked fine. lack of water ownt cause spots thought.

yes PH testing your water and runoff is kinda redundant. it dosent give you any valid information to put into the equation ( i suck at spelling sorry) if you really want to know what the PH is you need to check the PH of the soil itself. feel free to do some research and if im wrong call me out and back it up thats the glory of the interwebz man.

i wasnt trying to be rude either but i wanted to be blunt and informative and him adding more to his mix is not going to help him until he knows for sure it is a deficiency and its not caused by PH lockout.

RetiredMatthebrute said:

yeah your right they probably can but they dont need it and its extra ambient heat that is harsher on smaller plants than bigger ones. plants that size will grow just fine at 100w and 900w is not going to make them grow any faster, cells only divide so fast,

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I was just going to say that 1000 watts is a bit much for some seedlings, OP how close is it to the plants, and what are the min max temps? There is no reason to use so much power on some seedlings you should go buy some 27 actual watt 6500k CFL's for your plants they will pay for themselves by not using so much power and they will be good enough for the next month - month and a half.

SOMEBEECH said:

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YES. Thats it.