SquirrelGod
New Member
I'm Koo Koo for CoaCoa puffs. XD!
I dont have spider mites... I have SUPER MITES !!
- Thread starter FLoJo
- Start date
ZeOdekoza
Active Member
"The most important spider mite is the twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). This mite attacks a wide range of garden plants, including many vegetables (e.g., beans, eggplant), fruits (e.g., raspberries, currants, pear) and flowers. The twospotted spider mite is also the most important species on house plants. It is a prolific producer of webbing." Just a little bit of info maybe help you with the problem if this is the type you have. For next round.
ZeOdekoza
Active Member
Here is a more detailed web page bout spider mites.
Spider Mites
by W.S. Cranshaw and D.C. Sclar 1
Quick Facts...
Figure 1: Honeylocust spider mites, with eggs. Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens in Colorado. Injury is caused as they feed, bruising the cells with their small, whiplike mouthparts and ingesting the sap. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance.
Following severe infestations, leaves become discolored, producing an unthrifty gray or bronze look to the plant. Leaves and needles may ultimately become scorched and drop prematurely. Spider mites frequently kill plants or cause serious stress to them.
Spider mites (Family: Tetranychidae) are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of insects that also includes spiders, ticks, daddy-longlegs and scorpions. Spider mites are small and often difficult to see with the unaided eye. Their colors range from red and brown to yellow and green, depending on the species of spider mite and seasonal changes in their appearance.
Many spider mites produce webbing, particularly when they occur in high populations. This webbing gives the mites and their eggs some protection from natural enemies and environmental fluctuations. Webbing produced by spiders, as well as fluff produced by cottonwoods, often is confused with the webbing of spider mites.
The most important spider mite is the twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). This mite attacks a wide range of garden plants, including many vegetables (e.g., beans, eggplant), fruits (e.g., raspberries, currants, pear) and flowers. The twospotted spider mite is also the most important species on house plants. It is a prolific producer of webbing.
Evergreens tend to host other mites, notably the spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis) on spruce and juniper, Oligonychus subnudus on pines, and Platytetranychus libocedri on arborvitae and juniper. Honeylocust, particularly those in drier sites, are almost invariably infested with the honeylocust spider mite (Platytetranychus multidigituli). Other mites may affect shade trees such as elm, mountain ash and oak.
Another complex of mites is associated with turfgrass, including the clover mite and Banks grass mite. These are discussed separately in fact sheet 5.505, Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass. Clover mites also are the common mite that enters homes in fall and spring, sometimes creating significant nuisance problems in the process.
Figure 2: Twospotted spider mites, with eggs. Life History and Habits
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and extremely large in proportion to the size of the mother. After egg hatch, the old egg shells remain and can be useful in diagnosing spider mite problems.
There is some variation in the habits of the different mites that attack garden plants, trees and shrubs. Outdoors, the twospotted spider mite and honeylocust spider mite survive winter as adults hidden in protected areas such as bark cracks, bud scales or under debris around the garden. Other mites survive the cool season in the egg stage. As winter approaches, most mites change color, often turning more red or orange. This habit may be why they are sometimes called "red spiders."
Most spider mite activity peaks during the warmer months. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.
Other species of spider mites are most active during the cooler periods of the growing season, in spring and fall. This includes the spruce spider mite and most of the mites that can damage turfgrass. These cool-season spider mites may cease development and produce dormant eggs to survive hot summer weather.
Dry conditions greatly favor all spider mites, an important reason why they are so important in the more arid areas of the country. They feed more under dry conditions, as the lower humidity allows them to evaporate excess water they excrete. At the same time, most of their natural enemies require more humid conditions and are stressed by arid conditions. Furthermore, plants stressed by drought can produce changes in their chemistry that make them more nutritious to spider mites.
Control
Biological Controls
Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-colored lady beetles known as the "spider mite destroyers" (Stethorus species) are specialized predators of spider mites. Minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs (Geocoris species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies.
A great many mites in the family Phytoseiidae are predators of spider mites. In addition to those that occur naturally, some of these are produced in commercial insectaries for release as biological controls. Among those most commonly sold via mail order are Galendromus occidentalis, Phytoseiulus persimilis, Mesoseiulus longipes and Neoseiulus californicus. Although these have been successful in control of spider mites on interior plants, effective use outdoors has not been demonstrated in Colorado. Predatory mites often have fairly high requirements for humidity, which can be limiting. Most suppliers provide information regarding use of the predator mites that they carry.
One reason that spider mites become problems in yards and gardens is the use of insecticides that destroy their natural enemies. For example, carbaryl (Sevin) devastates most spider mite natural enemies and can greatly contribute to spider mite outbreaks. Malathion can aggravate some spider mite problems, despite being advertised frequently as effective for mite control. Soil applications of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit, Marathon) have also contributed to some spider mite outbreaks.
Figure 3: Twospotted spider mite injury to eggplant.
Figure 4: "Spider mite destroyer" lady beetle.
Figure 5: Minute pirate bug. Water Management
Adequate watering of plants during dry conditions can limit the importance of drought stress on spider mite outbreaks. Periodic hosing of plants with a forceful jet of water can physically remove and kill many mites, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators. Disruption of the webbing also may delay egg laying until new webbing is produced. Sometimes, small changes where mite-susceptible plants are located or how they are watered can greatly influence their susceptibility to spider mite damage.
Chemical Controls
Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Table 1 includes a summary of pesticides that may be useful for managing spider mites.
Control of Spider Mites on House Plants
Control on house plants can be particularly frustrating. There generally are no biological controls and few effective chemical controls (primarily soaps and horticultural oils). When attempting control, treat all susceptible house plants at the same time. Trim, bag and remove heavily infested leaves and discard severely infested plants. Periodically hose small plants in the sink or shower. Wipe leaves of larger plants with a soft, damp cloth. Reapply these treatments at one- to two-week intervals as long as populations persist.
Table 1: Pesticides useful to control spider mites in yards and gardens. Active Ingredient Trade Name(s) Comments acephate Orthene, certain Isotox formulations Insecticide with some effectiveness against spider mites. Systemic. abamectin Avid For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Primarily effective against twospotted spider mite; less effective against mites on conifers. Limited systemic movement. bifenthrin Talstar, others Insecticide with good miticide activity. hexythiazox Hexygon For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective miticide that affects developing stages and eggs only. One application per season label restriction. horticultural oils Sunspray, others Used at the "summer oil" rate (2 percent), oils are perhaps the most effective miticide available for home use. insecticidal soap several Marginally effective against twospotted spider mite and where webbing prevents penetration. Broadly labeled. spiromesifan Forbid For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective against mites and conserves natural enemies. sulfur various Generally sold in dust formulation for control of various fungal diseases and some mites on some ornamental and vegetable crops. 1W.S. Cranshaw, Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, and D.C. Sclar, research assistant; bioagricultural sciences and pest management. Revised 11/06.
Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Colorado counties cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.
Spider Mites
by W.S. Cranshaw and D.C. Sclar 1
Quick Facts...
- Spider mites are common plant pests. Symptoms of injury include flecking, discoloration (bronzing) and scorching of leaves. Injury can lead to leaf loss and even plant death.
- Natural enemies include small lady beetles, predatory mites, minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs and predatory thrips.
- One reason that spider mites become a problem is insecticides that kill their natural predators.
- Irrigation and moisture management can be important cultural controls for spider mites.
Following severe infestations, leaves become discolored, producing an unthrifty gray or bronze look to the plant. Leaves and needles may ultimately become scorched and drop prematurely. Spider mites frequently kill plants or cause serious stress to them.
Spider mites (Family: Tetranychidae) are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of insects that also includes spiders, ticks, daddy-longlegs and scorpions. Spider mites are small and often difficult to see with the unaided eye. Their colors range from red and brown to yellow and green, depending on the species of spider mite and seasonal changes in their appearance.
Many spider mites produce webbing, particularly when they occur in high populations. This webbing gives the mites and their eggs some protection from natural enemies and environmental fluctuations. Webbing produced by spiders, as well as fluff produced by cottonwoods, often is confused with the webbing of spider mites.
The most important spider mite is the twospotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). This mite attacks a wide range of garden plants, including many vegetables (e.g., beans, eggplant), fruits (e.g., raspberries, currants, pear) and flowers. The twospotted spider mite is also the most important species on house plants. It is a prolific producer of webbing.
Evergreens tend to host other mites, notably the spruce spider mite (Oligonychus ununguis) on spruce and juniper, Oligonychus subnudus on pines, and Platytetranychus libocedri on arborvitae and juniper. Honeylocust, particularly those in drier sites, are almost invariably infested with the honeylocust spider mite (Platytetranychus multidigituli). Other mites may affect shade trees such as elm, mountain ash and oak.
Another complex of mites is associated with turfgrass, including the clover mite and Banks grass mite. These are discussed separately in fact sheet 5.505, Clover and Other Mites of Turfgrass. Clover mites also are the common mite that enters homes in fall and spring, sometimes creating significant nuisance problems in the process.
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and extremely large in proportion to the size of the mother. After egg hatch, the old egg shells remain and can be useful in diagnosing spider mite problems.
There is some variation in the habits of the different mites that attack garden plants, trees and shrubs. Outdoors, the twospotted spider mite and honeylocust spider mite survive winter as adults hidden in protected areas such as bark cracks, bud scales or under debris around the garden. Other mites survive the cool season in the egg stage. As winter approaches, most mites change color, often turning more red or orange. This habit may be why they are sometimes called "red spiders."
Most spider mite activity peaks during the warmer months. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.
Other species of spider mites are most active during the cooler periods of the growing season, in spring and fall. This includes the spruce spider mite and most of the mites that can damage turfgrass. These cool-season spider mites may cease development and produce dormant eggs to survive hot summer weather.
Dry conditions greatly favor all spider mites, an important reason why they are so important in the more arid areas of the country. They feed more under dry conditions, as the lower humidity allows them to evaporate excess water they excrete. At the same time, most of their natural enemies require more humid conditions and are stressed by arid conditions. Furthermore, plants stressed by drought can produce changes in their chemistry that make them more nutritious to spider mites.
Control
Biological Controls
Various insects and predatory mites feed on spider mites and provide a high level of natural control. One group of small, dark-colored lady beetles known as the "spider mite destroyers" (Stethorus species) are specialized predators of spider mites. Minute pirate bugs, big-eyed bugs (Geocoris species) and predatory thrips can be important natural enemies.
A great many mites in the family Phytoseiidae are predators of spider mites. In addition to those that occur naturally, some of these are produced in commercial insectaries for release as biological controls. Among those most commonly sold via mail order are Galendromus occidentalis, Phytoseiulus persimilis, Mesoseiulus longipes and Neoseiulus californicus. Although these have been successful in control of spider mites on interior plants, effective use outdoors has not been demonstrated in Colorado. Predatory mites often have fairly high requirements for humidity, which can be limiting. Most suppliers provide information regarding use of the predator mites that they carry.
One reason that spider mites become problems in yards and gardens is the use of insecticides that destroy their natural enemies. For example, carbaryl (Sevin) devastates most spider mite natural enemies and can greatly contribute to spider mite outbreaks. Malathion can aggravate some spider mite problems, despite being advertised frequently as effective for mite control. Soil applications of the systemic insecticide imidacloprid (Merit, Marathon) have also contributed to some spider mite outbreaks.
Adequate watering of plants during dry conditions can limit the importance of drought stress on spider mite outbreaks. Periodic hosing of plants with a forceful jet of water can physically remove and kill many mites, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators. Disruption of the webbing also may delay egg laying until new webbing is produced. Sometimes, small changes where mite-susceptible plants are located or how they are watered can greatly influence their susceptibility to spider mite damage.
Chemical Controls
Chemical control of spider mites generally involves pesticides that are specifically developed for spider mite control (miticides or acaricides). Few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Furthermore, strains of spider mites resistant to pesticides frequently develop, making control difficult. Because most miticides do not affect eggs, a repeat application at an approximately 10- to 14-day interval is usually needed for control. Table 1 includes a summary of pesticides that may be useful for managing spider mites.
Control of Spider Mites on House Plants
Control on house plants can be particularly frustrating. There generally are no biological controls and few effective chemical controls (primarily soaps and horticultural oils). When attempting control, treat all susceptible house plants at the same time. Trim, bag and remove heavily infested leaves and discard severely infested plants. Periodically hose small plants in the sink or shower. Wipe leaves of larger plants with a soft, damp cloth. Reapply these treatments at one- to two-week intervals as long as populations persist.
Table 1: Pesticides useful to control spider mites in yards and gardens. Active Ingredient Trade Name(s) Comments acephate Orthene, certain Isotox formulations Insecticide with some effectiveness against spider mites. Systemic. abamectin Avid For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Primarily effective against twospotted spider mite; less effective against mites on conifers. Limited systemic movement. bifenthrin Talstar, others Insecticide with good miticide activity. hexythiazox Hexygon For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective miticide that affects developing stages and eggs only. One application per season label restriction. horticultural oils Sunspray, others Used at the "summer oil" rate (2 percent), oils are perhaps the most effective miticide available for home use. insecticidal soap several Marginally effective against twospotted spider mite and where webbing prevents penetration. Broadly labeled. spiromesifan Forbid For commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective against mites and conserves natural enemies. sulfur various Generally sold in dust formulation for control of various fungal diseases and some mites on some ornamental and vegetable crops. 1W.S. Cranshaw, Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, and D.C. Sclar, research assistant; bioagricultural sciences and pest management. Revised 11/06.
Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Colorado counties cooperating. Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.
Seamaiden
Well-Known Member
It appears that my tobacco tea did the trick for him/her, though. I love learning.
Right on. 
(And, if you feel so inclined, how about tossin' a rep my way?)
Right ON, Flo.
Right on. (And, if you feel so inclined, how about tossin' a rep my way?)
Rocky Top High
Well-Known Member
I don't have any cool remedies to zap spider mites but I use Hot Shot No Pest Strips and they appear to keep bugs away from my precious ladies including spider mites. I have one hanging in my veg room and in my flower room and (knock on wood) I have zero pest problem. I also live in the south where winters are no longer cold enough to help with killing off pests.
I highly reccomend anyone growing indoors to get these No Pest strips. I honestly have ZERO bugs and before I got these I had all kinds. Good luck
I highly reccomend anyone growing indoors to get these No Pest strips. I honestly have ZERO bugs and before I got these I had all kinds. Good luck
South Texas
Well-Known Member
See Dirtdoctor.com for more info.
Seamaiden
Well-Known Member
Apparently... they don't.I'm just curious, do people only read the first post and stop there, or what?
honkeytown
Well-Known Member
lol....you are funny girl
Seamaiden
Well-Known Member
Funny smelling?lol....you are funny girl
I'd say I'm just kidding, but it's warm, if you get my drift. Let's hope you don't. D'OH!
Dude.. what's that sme...
FLoJo
Well-Known Member
Wow Seamaiden yes def +rep for you. I am about to take that tea and spray the shit outta my room so i will have some more detailed results later..
As far as no pest strips
A. I dont think they work too well
B. I dont trust any product to be chillin in my house that your not supposed to be around for more than 4 hours! I live here for goodness sake
C. Having a powerful exhaust means that I am simply wasting the bug killing aroma anyway..
And thanks for the national geographic lesson on spider mites... like I said before I have a microscope and know what they are and what they do the problem was killing the fucks
I am off to spray down my whole room in a beekeeping outfit so i dont get that nicotine all over me (I did last night and got me buzzin haha) and will have an update in about 4 hours when I pinch off some more leaves and see how much damage is done!
Again thanks Seamaiden for the recipie... now we just need to find a way to put this brew in a aerosol form and we will be effin rich!!
As far as no pest strips
A. I dont think they work too well
B. I dont trust any product to be chillin in my house that your not supposed to be around for more than 4 hours! I live here for goodness sake
C. Having a powerful exhaust means that I am simply wasting the bug killing aroma anyway..
And thanks for the national geographic lesson on spider mites... like I said before I have a microscope and know what they are and what they do the problem was killing the fucks
I am off to spray down my whole room in a beekeeping outfit so i dont get that nicotine all over me (I did last night and got me buzzin haha) and will have an update in about 4 hours when I pinch off some more leaves and see how much damage is done!
Again thanks Seamaiden for the recipie... now we just need to find a way to put this brew in a aerosol form and we will be effin rich!!
honkeytown
Well-Known Member
lmao....Funny smelling?
I'd say I'm just kidding, but it's warm, if you get my drift. Let's hope you don't. D'OH!
Dude.. what's that sme...
Seamaiden
Well-Known Member
FloJo, I am just REALLY glad you were able to kill them. You must have saturated pretty well if you caught a buzz. Of course, I'm using out on my outdoor grow, so maybe that has something to do with it.
As for the other... you might have an idea there...
Anyway, you get 'em! I am still amazed that the other stuff you tried didn't do it. Seriously.
FLoJo
Well-Known Member
Ya I was stirring it around with my finger to get all the tobacco saturated... or maybe I was just hii lol but i quit smoking a while ago and it seemed like that good ol nicotine buzz.FloJo, I am just REALLY glad you were able to kill them. You must have saturated pretty well if you caught a buzz. Of course, I'm using out on my outdoor grow, so maybe that has something to do with it.
As for the other... you might have an idea there...
Anyway, you get 'em! I am still amazed that the other stuff you tried didn't do it. Seriously.
And I am amazed too that the other stuff didnt work.. i guess its just a matter of giving them something they aint used to.. so i strengthend up your recipie and gave em hell.. we will see later tonight if it really did the job.. if so I will spray it every three days and hopefully rid myself of these lil mongrels!
and i wonder how you would go about making it into a fogger....
FLoJo
Well-Known Member
mine is the type that you get at hydro stores its a lil spray bottle that has a adjustable nozzle so you can hold it straight and spray under the plants or on top of em or sideways it has like a 360 degree rotation... I currently have it set at the finest mist setting so hand spraying my babies is def. a forearm workout to say the least!
I sprayed them tho till it was dripping wet and I had tobacco juice all over the floor lol but I am fairly certain that I got them all saturated... if not ill spray em again.. I just hope my buds dont end up tasting like tobacco...
I sprayed them tho till it was dripping wet and I had tobacco juice all over the floor lol but I am fairly certain that I got them all saturated... if not ill spray em again.. I just hope my buds dont end up tasting like tobacco...