Hydroponics

art2

Active Member
All right! Hydroponics is what I know, and hydroponics is the way I grow! :bigjoint:

This forum will be great, we can discuss anything hydro. No dirtbags here, We haul water!

We can compare the different nutrient salts, and all of the additives. Plus the kinds of soilless media and what irrigation system is best for each. And of course, pH and TDS measuring equipment, feeding and flushing, etc.

And all the while, we'll make fun of those guys hauling big bags of dirt! :blsmoke:


I can't think of any questions right now, what do YOU want to know?

:mrgreen:
I just put my first seeds in "Rapid Rooter" starter plugs in a pan then covered with another pan. I didn't have enough $ to get a good light yet so I got a florescent. I've got a nice 3X4' closet space to work with. I want to try the flood method for my first hydro attempt. Any Advice ???
 

Gyp

Rogue
If you're just starting out, go with ebb an flow or a bubbler, aero is a bit more advanced.
 

massmurda420

Well-Known Member
me and my dad atre thinkin of mpurchasin a hydro kit
but i dont know where i should look and which i should use
we are just growing like 4-5 plants for personal use.
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
hey pot is ebb better than aero or are both trial and era just starting to do hydro was dirt got to see which is better . if you have any tips please feel free to pass on . doing the ebb thing . panhead
I just put my first seeds in "Rapid Rooter" starter plugs in a pan then covered with another pan. I didn't have enough $ to get a good light yet so I got a florescent. I've got a nice 3X4' closet space to work with. I want to try the flood method for my first hydro attempt. Any Advice ???
Ebb&flow, flood&drain, that's a great place to start with active hydro! Grow your plants in an inert media and flood it a couple of times a day, either automatically using timers and pumps, or manually. Aero may be better, but it takes a lot of time and dedication.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

Lamafia ck

New Member
i got a ph problem i'll check the ph every night and every night is around 7 i always bring it down to 5.2 but it wont stay at 5.2 i checkd it this morning and its already 7
the bottom leaves r yellowing and i have no idea wat to do ???
i use around 4 gallon of poland spring water i never used tap water i sterelize my system every week and i have no clue wats making the ph go up
 

panheadcharlie

Active Member
i got a ph problem i'll check the ph every night and every night is around 7 i always bring it down to 5.2 but it wont stay at 5.2 i checkd it this morning and its already 7
the bottom leaves r yellowing and i have no idea wat to do ???
i use around 4 gallon of poland spring water i never used tap water i sterelize my system every week and i have no clue wats making the ph go up
lamafia your ph will go up and down i was having the same problem i took the ness, precation got my ph rite feed my plants waited a few hours to filter . up agian read up on my problem the book ( mr greenhead)said it will and then it will even out . why 5.2 on your ph . i read 6.4 was best for nut. up take .like to know for my knowledge just had 3 ( 1 sno white 2 grimilyn)to go hermmi on me. so inlightin me please..............chuck
 

iRAYone

Active Member
Hi
I had the same problem. In deionized water there is no PH buffer???(as I am told) I use part deionized and part RO. in a 50/50 mix. I start my system at 5.5 and everyday it goes up one point at the end of the week I am 6.5. I let the ph go up because the plant will take up different nutes at different PH. 5.8 is best.Rock wool will increase the pH as well I use coconut mix. Hope that helps.
 

ripabg

Active Member
Yeah my ph fluctuates and i have a 33 gal res filled 1/3 way, and i t fluctualtes avery nite,,,, why?
 

potroast

Uses the Rollitup profile
Here is part of one of the best explanations that I have found on the subject: I'll highlight some good points.

Most varieties of vegetables grow at their best in a nutrient solution having a pH between 6.0 and 7.5 and a nutrient temperature between 20 and 22 degrees Celsius

In low light ( overcast days or indoor growing environments) plants take up more potassium and phosphorous from the nutrient solution so the acidity increases (pH drops). In strong intense light (clear sunny days) plants take up more nitrogen from the nutrient solution so the acidity decreases (pH rises). pH can be controlled in two ways.

Extremes in pH can result in precipitation of certain nutrients. For plant roots to be able to absorb nutrients, the nutrients must be dissolved in solution. The process of precipitation (the reverse of dissolving) results in the formation of solids in the nutrient solution, making nutrients unavailable to plants. Not all precipitation settles to the bottom of the tanks, some precipitates occur as very fine suspension invisible to the naked eye. Plants can tell us their problems through leaf symptoms (e.g. iron [Fe] deficiency) when it's too late. Iron (Fe) is one essential plant nutrient whose solubility is affected by pH which is why it is added in a chelated form (or daily), Fe deficiency symptoms occur readily. At pH values over 7, less than 50% of the Fe is available to plants. At pH 8.0, no Fe is left in solution due to iron hydroxide precipitation (Fe(OH)3 - which eventually converts to rust). As long as the pH is kept below 6.5, over 90% of the Fe is available to plants. Varying pH of summer lettuce nutrient solutions also affects the solubility of calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P). Due to calcium phosphate precipitation (Ca3(PO4)2) the availability of Ca and P decreases at pH values above 6.0. All other nutrients stay in solution and do not precipitate over a wide pH range. Poor water quality could exacerbate any precipitation reactions that may occur. Generally in the pH range 4.0 to 6.0, all nutrients are available to plants. Precipitation reduces Fe, Ca and P availability at pH 6.0 and over .

Adjusting pH The addition of acids or alkalis to nutrient solutions is the most common and practical means to adjust pH, and can be easily automated. There are ways to minimise pH variations and they are worth some consideration. Nitrogen is the essential inorganic nutrient required in the largest quantity by plants. Most plants are able to absorb either nitrate (NO3-) or ammonium (NH4+) or both. NH4+ as the sole source of nitrogen or in excess is deleterious to the growth of many plant species. Some plants yield better when supplied with a mixture of NH4+ (ammonium) and NO3- (nitrate) compared to NO3- alone. A combination of NH4+ and NO3- can be used to buffer against changes in pH. Plants grown in nutrient solution containing only NO3- as the sole nitrogen source tend to increase solution pH, hence the need to add acid. But when approximately 10%-20% of the total nitrogen is supplied as NH4+, the nutrient solution pH is stabilised at pH 5.5. NH4+ concentration needs to be monitored as it has been shown recently that micro-organisms growing on plant root surfaces can convert the NH4+ to NO3-. Since hand-held ion-selective electrodes for measuring both NH4+ and NO3- are now available, it should be possible to accurately monitor and maintain a predetermined NO3-/NH4+ ratio throughout the life of the crop. Phosphorus is required in large amounts by plants. Interestingly, there are two forms of fertilisers containing both K and P - KH2PO4 mono-potassium phosphate (MKP) and K2HPO4 di-potassium phosphate. Equal quantities of both can be used to maintain the pH at 7.0. Using a higher proportion of K2HPO4 increases pH. MKP can be used to lower the solution pH. Buffers are solutions which resist pH change and are used to calibrate pH electrodes. Buffers can be added to nutrient solutions in an attempt to maintain pH stability. One such buffer is called 2-(N-morpholino) ethanesulfonic acid - abbreviated to MES. Many of the companies who claim better pH control with their 'specially' formulated nutrient solutions add MES to their mixes. It is important to remember when using MES, that after MES addition the pH is low and needs to be adjusted to your required level with an alkali such as potassium hydroxide (KOH). Another method of pH stabilisation is to use ion- exchange and chelating resins. Generally, these resins are small beads which have nutrients absorbed or chelated onto them - the nutrient solution circulates through the beads or the beads can be suspended in the nutrient tank. As plants absorb nutrients, more nutrients are released by the resins. The aim is to achieve controlled release of nutrients into the solution in an attempt to mimic the way the soil releases nutrients. Ideally, such release can adequately supply the growing plants' nutritional requirements and maintain pH stability.

Is pH Adjustment Critical? pH is not as critical as most hydroponicists believe. The main point is to avoid extremes in pH. Plants grow on soils with a wide range of pH. For most plant species there is an optimum pH in the region of pH 5 to pH 6.
Hey, It's me, I'm back. Yeah, I know that this is just some other guys write up, but it jives with everything that I have read on the subject.

HTH :mrgreen:
 

pmoore68

Active Member
The fact that it fluctuates could be a sign also that you are taking in nutes.As the water level goes down and the nutes are taken in the ppm changes,temp changes etc.Stay on it you are fine.
 
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