Hydroponic Perpetual Grow Community

[GypsyBush]

A lot of crawling with stuff in my mouth...

Damn those 2x4's are heavy...

Not to mention I have 47 steps to go up and down...lol...

I am proud to say I had no help...

You should see me go with 2 good legs... it sure was fun... lol...

Thanks for the compliment, but that is one chaotic non-organized mess...

I am just glad that it keeps me happy...kiss-ass

 

[LoudBlunts]

Hmm, So I guess I should not be using it with Bud XL and Multi- Zyme huh? If it kills bacteria, will it kill my good enzymes and what not?

heres the thing.

h2o2 should be used as a last resort. it ultimately does not kill pythium or the majors....it only keeps it at bay. it basically oxidize whatever so its made available to the plant.....

furthermore, the use of h2o2 can kill off beneficial microbes and such in your roots whether fully chemical or not. Roots still are alive and kicking and have that 'organic' life to them regardless if you only use chem nutes....

moreover...h2o2 is nothing more than a chemical airstone with some added benefits.

h2o2 become very popular on the growing scene when hydroponics emerged. At the time, res chillers were barely heard of, let alone using them for growing....

as more and more knowledge came about keeping your res cool and obtaining max DO (dissolved oxygen) by having the nute solution circulating and 'chilled' you can obtain 14ppms of DO...things started to become apparent.

The reason why h2o2 is viewed as more economical in certain setups is because only a few systems are picky picky when it comes to certain res temps i.e. dwc, aero, nft shit like that....

of course any body of water can turn picky. picky in the sense of....if you dont maintain it....nasty pathogens WILL grow (trust me on this, i KNOW)

ebb n flow reservoirs are held to the same standard as any other body of water and its pickiness...however the roots are not dangling in the hot temps and they most of the time sit in pots of medium when in ebb and flow setups this is why you can get away with it.... furthermore....supplementing with h2o2 (35% as the 3-5% sold in stores are just unstable) can keep most ickies at bay by oxidizes nasties.


with all that said....this is why some growers chose not to use h2o2 cuz it can (keyword here, CAN) harm root life, and moreover will limit your options for nutes, additives, bloom boosters, etc etc

load your res up with goodies and you wont have to worry about nasties coming in. there is no way a bunch of goodies (beneficial) will let nasties take over. Its like a war of who has the most numbers...who is 'deeper', per se

but forget goodies. keep your res light tight, circulated & moving water, and last but not least....keep it cool and you wont have shit to worry about

 

[LoudBlunts]

btw, Gypsy.... i see you

nice bro

 

[GypsyBush]

Oh!

Thanks!

 

[McGruppsMonsters]

New to the "group" considering a switch over to SOG type of grow. Was thinking about forty plants per 4X4, I run 3K watts so I would need to put out about 120 clones, closer to 160 or so and weed out the weaker ones.

My questions about SOG are the following

How do you combat bug issues with forty plants packed under a 1K? I have a tough time growing taller trees, and they are less prone to mite infestation than a shit ton of clones packed into a small space.

Do you guys find it's better to stagger the grows in a SOG format to achieve the true perpetual harvest? My main concern is not being able to use pyrithrium and other mite fighting agents because you constantly have plants in the flower cycle of life.

As of now I can bomb during veg, and then also shortly into flower, but if I stagger the grows by a few weeks, it's more than likely that I'll have a hard time finding a window where dropping a bomb would be appropriate.

Lastly, when I take cuts, they are often times smaller to fit into the Hydro Hut, and I'm curious what height you guys let your plants get to in veg before inducing flower in a SOG format? I was thinking 10-12 inches, which usually takes me about 11 days to achieve with the size of the clones I take. Thanks gang I'll be stopping by this thread more often as I consider the switch.

Also, can you guys tell me how many plants you use per 4X4, the veg time, and your current yield. I would like to achieve 1lb per 1K lamp, vegging for 11-13 days in an ebb and flow format....is this possible with the right strain?

I'm currently holding a SSH that my friend is growing, several friends, and they swear the plant at 5 weeks is mature enough, and has put on enough weight to take them down. I know as an experienced grower the 5 week thing is just a preference. In all likelihood the strain is a 7 week strain but people have realized you can add productivity by taking it down early as it doesn't pack on a shit load of weight in the last few weeks.... would you reccomend a strain like this for a SOG?

 

[GypsyBush]

Why do yo keep getting pests?

Oh and 4x4 =16 sqft...

@ 4 plants/sqft you can safely fit 64 lollipops on a true 4x4 tray... well 63 because of the fittings...

 

[Greyskull]

dude you need to get your self some floramite, spray the shit out of your mothers & vegging gals, and you won't have any more mite problem.
style of grow has no bearing on what pests are attracted to your crops. maybe even spray the plantsright oitside the grow & near the intake/s....

perp or not to perp... DO YOU WANT TO HARVEST EVERY 60 DAYS OR DO YOU WANT TO TAKE PLANTS DOWN ALL THE TIME? do you wnat to do a litle work all the time or do you wnat to do a shitload of work once in a while?

and btw you can use the total release pyretheum fogers up to 3 days before harvest... i wouldn't recommned using them beyond week 3 of flower... if you're there and you have mite you should be spraying neem every 7 days to just keep the mites minimal. and for the record floramite, on the botles label, says its safe up to 3 days before harvest... use it in flower at your own discretion ha ha

IME/IMO if you are going to be running a 3k grow (plant number & style don't matter) you need to know exactly how your plants grow... how fast they clone how they respond to topping should they be topped in your situation. if your friends have any skills, and they have the same plant you will be growing, i would pay pretty close attention to what my homies are doing. i would watch them add their nutes. or prune their plants. spend time with them in their grow op and have them learn you about the plant. if what they are doing is successful, i don't see the point in fucking off and doing something different if you have LIVE TECHNICAL SUPPORT in the form of your homeys. seriouosly i would ask them EXACTLY WHAT ARE YOU DOING and just do it. ask questions later just learn to be successful. thats what i think if you are going to be growing a plant your friends have intimate knowledge with....

just my 2 cents
please remedy your mite situation your plants will thank you for it.

 

[Thundercat]

I'm currently holding a SSH that my friend is growing, several friends, and they swear the plant at 5 weeks is mature enough, and has put on enough weight to take them down. I know as an experienced grower the 5 week thing is just a preference. In all likelihood the strain is a 7 week strain but people have realized you can add productivity by taking it down early as it doesn't pack on a shit load of weight in the last few weeks.... would you reccomend a strain like this for a SOG?

First of, seems to me if they are cutting a plant that has sativa in it, like SSH, at 5 weeks you are likely only getting a portion of that plants potential. I'm not the most experianced grower out there, but I've never heard of a strain that finished in 5 weeks, it sounds like you friend is just impatient. Also as far as the amount of weight the plants put on, it has been my experiance, and thatof many other growers I've talked to, that platns put on THE MOST wieght the last 2-3 weeks of flowering, which means your losing potential there as well as on potency. JUst my two cents, but I wanted to add it. I don't see a point in growing the plants just to cut them weeks early. Peace TC

 

[Thundercat]

lol ok so 2 more cents. I just checked out the description of super silver haze which is what your talking about correct? According to the breaders of that strain its supposed to be in for 11 weeks in order to be mature. Yes long flowering sativas require patients, I'm dealing with some that are expected to take 14 weeks. But until you let the plant grow out properly you'll never know its full potential. Also another note, usually you can expect they will take atleast a week longer then the breeders say unless you are a really pro grower, and your plants have 0 stress while they are growing.

So I'm not trying to bash on you man just so you know, just sharing some info to hopfully allow you to get optimal yield/potency from your girls. TC

 

[Return of the Spork]

I haven't been able to flower it yet, but I have been sitting on a SSH mother for a while. That bitch is lanky. I have been able to train it to produce denser clones, but I know it will not be a good SoG fit for me, (at least in my cabs). I have heard of plants finishing in 7 weeks, but 5 seems short. If it finished in 5 weeks I would blame growing conditions. Not trying to call your bro's out, but if they are happy to cut SSH at 5 weeks, then they are impatient and inexperienced. I suggest the indica variety. I started with Jack Herer, and while it is a hybrid it is more sativa and compared to my poisons, the poisons win out EASY. Can't wait to try that Sweet God there is so much buzz about. BCBD is making some money off you guys.

Mites from some of the original clones I got that appeared clean (now I have a quarantine, durr) and have worked their way through. One cab was barely effected, and the other was CRAWLING. The mothers were feeling it too. I tried neem, and while I am sure it helped it didn't finish the job. I got the Doktor Doom Mite spray and pretty much worked on the mothers with that for a while. My clones got treatment before going in, and I cut off bad leaves and increased humidity where I could. Also I started using the Hot Shot Strips. I know they are still there but I seem to have won for now. So pests when you have different cycles does suck, but it is my own fault for letting it get to that point. If someone has pests, I would bet that there is something they could do differently to help fight or prevent it from happening again.

 

[McGruppsMonsters]

dude you need to get your self some floramite, spray the shit out of your mothers & vegging gals, and you won't have any more mite problem.
style of grow has no bearing on what pests are attracted to your crops. maybe even spray the plantsright oitside the grow & near the intake/s....

perp or not to perp... DO YOU WANT TO HARVEST EVERY 60 DAYS OR DO YOU WANT TO TAKE PLANTS DOWN ALL THE TIME? do you wnat to do a litle work all the time or do you wnat to do a shitload of work once in a while?

and btw you can use the total release pyretheum fogers up to 3 days before harvest... i wouldn't recommned using them beyond week 3 of flower... if you're there and you have mite you should be spraying neem every 7 days to just keep the mites minimal. and for the record floramite, on the botles label, says its safe up to 3 days before harvest... use it in flower at your own discretion ha ha

IME/IMO if you are going to be running a 3k grow (plant number & style don't matter) you need to know exactly how your plants grow... how fast they clone how they respond to topping should they be topped in your situation. if your friends have any skills, and they have the same plant you will be growing, i would pay pretty close attention to what my homies are doing. i would watch them add their nutes. or prune their plants. spend time with them in their grow op and have them learn you about the plant. if what they are doing is successful, i don't see the point in fucking off and doing something different if you have LIVE TECHNICAL SUPPORT in the form of your homeys. seriouosly i would ask them EXACTLY WHAT ARE YOU DOING and just do it. ask questions later just learn to be successful. thats what i think if you are going to be growing a plant your friends have intimate knowledge with....

just my 2 cents
please remedy your mite situation your plants will thank you for it.

I've never heard of people dropping pyrethrium bombs three days before harvest, but I guess you could be right? I've had pretty good luck with floramite in the past, and I'll continue to use it... the bugs always seem to come back somehow though. This time I'll be more on it and really try to get in there more and spray.

As for replicating my buddy's system, it really isn't possible due to height constraints in my room. They are growing 6 foot Diesels in garages, I only have 7.5 foot ceilings. I have had pretty good luck with the Sour Diesel so I was thinking I'd keep it around, and maybe just grow more of them than my buddys do, and hopefully achieve the same results.

For whatever reason SOG just sounded nice to me and I am considering the switch. It personally sounds more appealing to me to do a shit ton of work all at once and then be mellow for a little while, but I could see the appeal of doing a little work constantly. You don't lose your rhythm or get lazy, you're always involved and you're never as overwhelmed with work as you can be harvesting all at once.

 

[DeweyKox]

heres the thing.

h2o2 should be used as a last resort. it ultimately does not kill pythium or the majors....it only keeps it at bay. it basically oxidize whatever so its made available to the plant.....

furthermore, the use of h2o2 can kill off beneficial microbes and such in your roots whether fully chemical or not. Roots still are alive and kicking and have that 'organic' life to them regardless if you only use chem nutes....

moreover...h2o2 is nothing more than a chemical airstone with some added benefits.

h2o2 become very popular on the growing scene when hydroponics emerged. At the time, res chillers were barely heard of, let alone using them for growing....

as more and more knowledge came about keeping your res cool and obtaining max DO (dissolved oxygen) by having the nute solution circulating and 'chilled' you can obtain 14ppms of DO...things started to become apparent.

The reason why h2o2 is viewed as more economical in certain setups is because only a few systems are picky picky when it comes to certain res temps i.e. dwc, aero, nft shit like that....

of course any body of water can turn picky. picky in the sense of....if you dont maintain it....nasty pathogens WILL grow (trust me on this, i KNOW)

ebb n flow reservoirs are held to the same standard as any other body of water and its pickiness...however the roots are not dangling in the hot temps and they most of the time sit in pots of medium when in ebb and flow setups this is why you can get away with it.... furthermore....supplementing with h2o2 (35% as the 3-5% sold in stores are just unstable) can keep most ickies at bay by oxidizes nasties.


with all that said....this is why some growers chose not to use h2o2 cuz it can (keyword here, CAN) harm root life, and moreover will limit your options for nutes, additives, bloom boosters, etc etc

load your res up with goodies and you wont have to worry about nasties coming in. there is no way a bunch of goodies (beneficial) will let nasties take over. Its like a war of who has the most numbers...who is 'deeper', per se

but forget goodies. keep your res light tight, circulated & moving water, and last but not least....keep it cool and you wont have shit to worry about

Well, I use about 6ml (35% H2o2) per gallon with H&G and additives. The reason I ask, is, I just started using Bud XL and already use Multi-Zyme, and wanted to see if it is killing those additives or using them. I have seen a noticeable difference when the additives came in effect.

But if I need to go from 2 week intervals rez tank changes with H202, to 1 week res change with zero h2o2, then i could, its just more work. And I have never check the temps of my water tank, but if I had to guess, its prolly 50-63. I have one large air stone, and thats its.

 

[GypsyBush]

Here is something for you guys to laugh at...

Like I was just thinking that I have an area in my op that has enough light to warrant a few more ladies...

But I am kinda strapped for cash right now so I went looking around the house...

I found...

1 - 185 gph water pump

2 - 5ft of flexible hose

3 - 18 gallon tub (the res)

4 - bottom half of a 32 gallon rubbermaid (the tray)

5 - 11 6" pots

6 - some string

7 - some gravel from the driveway ( I would have preferred using hydroton, but the gravel was free, we'll see how it works)

It is a recirculating drip/squirt sytem...

The water gets pumped to the individual pots via holes in the hose.. and returns to the res via holes in the bottom of the tray...

I plan on running it 4 hours on 15 min off... during lights on...

Simple as it gets, and although it was not free, most people here have this stuff at home...

Here is the picture...

and I'll make sure to bring updated pics when the time comes...

Cheers...

 

[Thundercat]

Very creative macgyver!!

 

[GypsyBush]

Thanks!

It's 11 more lollipops...

Granted they will not be in full light, I still expect to get a minimum of 10g each... which represents almost a QP ...

Not bad for just the added expense of a water pump...

We'll see though, it may not work that well....

 

[LoudBlunts]

why not GB? i use my corner for some corner plants too

got tired of handwatering....so i built a drip system

good job bro!!!

 

[GypsyBush]

Thanks LB...

So I drilled holes on the pots... so the hose could go through... the string was a bit much for my taste...lol..

So here it is with the very last bit of hydroton I had on hand... ready for some gravel and clones...

Still need to find an adequate plug for the end of the hose... but that won't be hard...

 

[LoudBlunts]

Well, I use about 6ml (35% H2o2) per gallon with H&G and additives. The reason I ask, is, I just started using Bud XL and already use Multi-Zyme, and wanted to see if it is killing those additives or using them. I have seen a noticeable difference when the additives came in effect.

But if I need to go from 2 week intervals rez tank changes with H202, to 1 week res change with zero h2o2, then i could, its just more work. And I have never check the temps of my water tank, but if I had to guess, its prolly 50-63. I have one large air stone, and thats its.

tbh, your root excelerator should be the h2o2 for your setup.

if it doesnt work well you can try more gentle h2o2-like alternatives such as hydroguard or the new upgrade to Aquashield (not sure of the name)

orrrr you can use Dutchmasters' Zone same thing

 

[DeweyKox]

Yea, Maybe I should try that out. But Fuck that root excelerator is some expensive shit! I am going to bring down the H2o2 for now till I can afford to buy some and try it out. But I do have Drip Clean. That was cheap and very strong, and use it with the h2o2.

 

[LoudBlunts]

dont trip the root excelerator is pricey, but its worth it

ultra concentrated...and you only use in half the time in veg and flower depending on period

and even then its like 1.1mL per gallon

thas like superthrive application ratio.

and it works...i've seen it in action