Hows it look

ciscoin313 said:

Its always going to be a learning experience in grow, each time you grow you learn what to do and what not to do. The best advice I can give you is "keep it simple" some new strain out there have been grow with plain water only no nutes ,no ph adjustments and do very well.

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ciscoin313 said:

Its always going to be a learning experience in grow, each time you grow you learn what to do and what not to do. The best advice I can give you is "keep it simple" some new strain out there have been grow with plain water only no nutes ,no ph adjustments and do very well.

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In botany, chlorosis is a condition in which leaves produce insufficient chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is responsible for the green colour of leaves, chlorotic leaves are pale, yellow, or yellow-white. The affected plant has little or no ability to manufacture carbohydrates through photosynthesis and may die unless the cause of its chlorophyll insufficiency is treated, although some chlorotic plants, such as the albino Arabidopsis thaliana mutant ppi2, are viable if supplied with exogenous sucrose.

Causes









Chlorosis is typically caused when leaves do not have enough nutrients to synthesise all the chlorophyll they need. It can be brought about by a combination of factors including:

• a specific mineral deficiency in the soil, such as iron[SUP][2][/SUP] or magnesium [SUP][3][/SUP]
• deficient nitrogen and/or proteins[SUP][3][/SUP]
• a soil pH at which minerals become unavailable for absorption by the roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
• poor drainage (waterlogged roots) [SUP][4][/SUP]
• damaged and/or compacted roots [SUP][4][/SUP]
• pesticides and particularly herbicides may cause chlorosis, both to target weeds and occasionally to the crop being treated.[SUP][5][/SUP]
• exposure to sulphur dioxide[SUP][6][/SUP]
• ozone injury to sensitive plants [2]

However, the exact conditions vary from plant type to plant type. For example, Azaleas grow best in acidic soil and rice is unharmed by waterlogged soil.

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Next time do some research to help u along, cause it looks like u have quite a few problems.

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Talk to any experienced grower and they will tell you that one of the most important features of their grow is the ability to control pH. pH (which, as most people are unaware, stands for "potential Hydrogen") is of paramount importance to any hydroponic grow operation because it affects the way that nutrients are absorbed into your plants. Many growers have long had an adversarial relationship with their nutrient solution's pH, but recent advances in nutrient technologies have made pH much more easily balanced within the nutrient reservoir, without the need of buffer solutions like pH up (an alkaline solution) or pH down (an acidic solution). Here is the lowdown on pH, how it affects your plants, and how you can keep it in that "sweet spot" that plants love.
Why pH Matters:
All green-leaved plants can survive just fine with a pH between 4.0 and 7.0. Basically, because the plants are made of relatively weak acids, they enjoy an environment that is also on the acidic side. However, when you are growing hydroponically, the nutrient solution that you provide to them is their life force, and nutrients will not be absorbed properly without the solution composed of the correct pH.

While the optimum pH for plant uptake may vary from one mineral to another, experts have determined that the optimum range for most of them is between 5.5 and 5.8, though many growers will argue that anything up to the 6.2 range is perfectly fine (6.3 and 6.8 for soil).
Minerals like Manganese (Mn), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), and the especially critical Iron (Fe) have reduced absorption rates at a higher pH, while Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K), Calcium (Ca), and Magnesium (Mg) have issues being absorbed at a lower rate. This doesn't mean that no nutrients are absorbed at higher or lower pH levels, but why waste valuable nutrients because your roots essentially don't know that they are there?
Controlling pH
There are a variety of tricks to keep your pH balanced. Firstly, for God's sake, make sure you have a meter, and a good one. My advice to growers is that nutrients, meters, and lights are not the places to save money. Spend some dough on a great tri-meter (pH, ppm, and temperature), and you will have the best chance of knowing what is happening in your reservoir.
Also, invest in some simple aerators to keep the nutrient solution in your reservoir constantly circulating; this will add oxygen to your solution (which makes roots happy) and make sure that all of your nutrients are evenly distributed. Aerators are inexpensive and can be purchased anywhere from hydro stores to pet stores, and even Target or Wal-Mart, though we recommend showing love to your local hydro store, where you can pick up the latest copy of Rosebud Magazine while you're at it.
To keep pH within that optimum range, growers have traditionally had to rely on buffer solutions, like pH up and down. While relatively inexpensive and incredibly effective, these buffers add unnecessary particulates to your reservoir, often causing your ppm meter to register a higher number than it would if it were only measuring your nutes (like it should). They are also extremely caustic and (as one grower and Rosebud reader whom I know can attest) burn like hell when they come in contact with skin, especially both at once.

One trick of the trade that is lesser known and less commonly used (though can be effective if you know what you are doing) is to add excess levels of Phosphorus (P) to your reservoir. Because of the way that it interacts with the other nutes, it will work to keep your pH at an optimum level (for a while). The downside of this technique is that as you use the nutrient solution in your reservoir to water your plants, and it recycles back into the reservoir in a never-ending cycle, your plants will uptake not only the nutrients that you mixed for them, they will absorb that extra Phosphorus as well. So, when using this technique, the efficiency drops as you water your plants – nothing will be as accurate as a brand-new, freshly mixed reservoir.
Changing the Game
While the info here will allow you to have a successful grow and harvest (providing you do everything else correctly), it takes time, effort, and constant monitoring to keep pH at an acceptable level to your plants. Your little green buddies will absorb nutrients at different levels during different parts of their lifespan (veg vs. flowering), so your pH will be constantly changing, and not always in the same direction. It takes a dedicated grower (or an automated system) to stay on top of this.

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Jeffdogg said:

You should do ALOT of research before your next grow mate. Nodes are too long, you have not gotten a hang of adjusting the PH yet as well by the looks of it. You nute burned the plant using MG and the FF nutes together. Should of been enough food in the MG soil to of lasted the life cycle of the plant. Also learn what perlite is. Should of just did 20/4 the whole time. Start reading here.

https://www.rollitup.org/auto-flowering-strains/652871-advanced-autoflower-training-tips-secrets.html

Sorry its prob not what you wanted to hear but thats boarder line plant abuse . Listen and Learn..

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SeeRockCity said:

interesting choice in nutes...
I thought most people used that soluble trio for bloom only...

The Fox Farm feeding schedule shows those as nute additives....
You should look into their liquid trio for your next grow...
(Grow Big, Big Bloom, and Tiger Bloom)
and use the other trio alongside.... you will see a MASSIVE difference.

http://foxfarmfertilizer.com/frontpage/feeding-schedules.html

and always adjust your Ph before feeding

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SeeRockCity said:

do yourself a HUGE favor and invest in a decent light...
growing with 6 cfl is not doing to do much for the daily stoner....

LED or HID is the thing right now.
LED is $$$$ but easier to run without overheating issues.
HID is great but you have to make SURE you evac your heat...
A decent 600W HID (MH+HPS) kit with enclosure on amazon is only $200...





...sorry I cant speak to the light schedule on autos...
I had a horrible time with auto strains and I just flat stay away from them.

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ciscoin313 said:

Its always going to be a learning experience in grow, each time you grow you learn what to do and what not to do. The best advice I can give you is "keep it simple" some new strain out there have been grow with plain water only no nutes ,no ph adjustments and do very well.

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tekdc911 said:

it looks done are the trich's/ crystals mostly brown ?
i second the perlite
auto's growth slows to almost a stop when there over watered

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tyedyed60 said:

This is a learning thing. Next time do some research to help u along, cause it looks like u have quite a few problems. But don't get me wrong, u will have a few buds to enjoy. Try different soil & maybe keeping ur lights closer. Good luck in ur next grow.

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Jeffdogg said:

Heres a few charts for ya to check out

View attachment 2682669View attachment 2682670

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pabloesqobar said:

I'm sure the ph thing is a general rule. Myself and others on this site have never tested or adjusted ph. Never had a problem. I must be lucky with the tap water I have.

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tekdc911 said:

drainage is this guys problem im sure there is a ph issue/lock out
but that would just be from a build up of nutes from low drainage , slow growth from being soggy
the fans are doing that because this plant is reaching the end
and its eating the sugars from the fans
its a trooper ill say that much

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tekdc911 said:

with the same setup with some perlite and just plain water he can easily pull more
add one 60-80 w cfl
i bet this guy can easily quadruple his yield
just my opinion

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