How to kill Spider Mites

ive been in a similar situation and thats wut i did.

i put a jar in the freezer for a couple days, and i took it out for a couple hours to let the moisture evaporate off the sides of the jar. believe it or not i actually saw some climbing up the sides of the glass after the first night. so thats why i chose to do a couple nights.

just keep and eye on it. it worked fine for me.

Well I did this. I froze them over night and that seemed to have stopped them for now. I also went to my local wal-mart and got a bunch of no pest strips. I have to tell you I was very sceptical at first that this little stick would penetrate into the buds and kill these little #$&%*. I spotted an active web on one of my buds and set a pest strip about 4 inches from there. I also placed them in other places I have plants. Normaly I see these little fkers moving on a leaf at least somewhere on the top portion of the plant. I dont see a thing moving today. It looks like the web is not only dead but falling apart and almost gone. I would assume lack of mantinance.
So I have been useing AzaMax in the water of the hydro plants and it seems to be working, Its sort of a long term the way im useing it. You can spray directly on younger plants that are still in veg. But this stuff really messes them up and they cant molt or reproduce. You can use it fairly far into budding, just make sure you rinse it for a week or 2.

So hope this helps someone else in this situation. I cant stand these little *%$*# eating my hard work..For free!!!

The no pest strips work great, but I dont know if I would trust them to keep everything out of every nook and cranny. The Azamax is working but very expensive..sitting down? $80.00 for a pint and it takes about 3 oz per plant.

My best advice is to just be super carful and quarentine any new plants, inspect your crop regularly. Fist sign of any mites hit them fast and hard. NO MERCY!!

floramit is the bomb it last 30 days.
that also means it last 30 days. you touch the plant you must wash your hands it is strong stuff.
worth every penny.

seems like you have gotten rid of them, but be wary, it may just be between hatches. id treat it as if they still had mites for another week.

Bug bomb einstien oil none work dude if the problem is that bad.if the problem is only on a couple or one plant get it out i know this sounds harsh but it is the only way to beat these thing.i would even go has far has saying if the problem is that bad get all the plants out, get them out of the house and blitz the grow area with bleach. Clean through out then leave for a week or so leave the fans on though wet all the grow area with bleach water then leave the fans to dry the room for you spider mites need a little heat to surrvive sorry dude.if the grow is near the end you can try soap water but this can cause rot so be careful.it's a hard one but i would not start another grow 100% not worth it sort the mites out first once these get a grip they can destroy all the buds get the plant with the least spider mites and isolate it from the rest take clones from the less effected parts of the plants.try and get your hands on some lady birds these might sort a small problem on a clone say.

There is some shit from australia that is fairly new. Spider mits dont have a resistance to em. THis stuff is def the way to go. Ive only had em once, but this shit knocked em out quick.

just became available in the U.S. recently. Im hearing guys talk about how amazed they are that this shit works. My buddy got mites, and he battled them for a year in his garden before he finally just moved. He got em again, and used this shit and they were gone after one application.

heres some shit from the site

http://verticalhydro.com/index.php?m...8206094d991ed5

Spider mites destroy plant cells by sucking out their contents, and Mite-Rid works by providing a barrier which is harmless to the plant, but fatal to the mites. Some of the components of Mite-Rid are also absorbed by the plant and then suppress the life cycle of the mites. Mite-Rid uses a unique formula of botanical oils, including neem, garlic, eucalyptus plus surfactants to provide a protective barrier against many leaf eating pests, and most effectively, the Spider Mite.
The main active ingredient, neem oil, contains a limonoid called azadirachtin which has steroids (campesterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol) which interrupt the normal hormonal balance of mites, suppressing its reproductive cycle. The neem oil used in Mite-Rid is cold pressed, as only oil of this quality will contain these steroids.


Mite-Rid is fully bio-degradable and is not toxic to animals and under normal use will not affect the plant's metabolism. Highly effective against two-spotted and red mites, Mite-Rid is also reporting success with Eriophyid mites such as the "Fuschia Gall Mite" which is endemic to parts of California and also known as the "Mendo" or "Mendocino mini". Mite-Rid comes in a concentrate form, and the 45ml bottle mixes with water to make 18 litres ( 32.7 pints) of mite killing spray.
One thorough application is usualy enough, but heavy infestations may require two, as the tiny eggs can be a bit more resilient; so we recommend a second application in these cases.
Get them before they get your plants!

They say prevention is better than cure, and just a little Mite-Rid goes a long way to preventing mite infestation. A periodic spray with Mite-Rid is the best way to never see your plants suffering an attack of spider mites.
Remember, when it's hot, and dry, mites are just a gentle breeze away from your plants, and they usually go undetected until they've multiplied to plague proportions. Just one spray every few weeks in the hottest season will protect your crop from this near invisible pest.
Whether you're an indoor grower, greenhouse grower, hydroponic grower, or outdoor grower, sooner or later the mites will find you!



http://verticalhydro.com/index.php?m...8206094d991ed5

I used this shit because i had an infestation early. I read about it on a forum and got some. (i was lucky cuz only one retailer was even selling it in the u.s. at that point, and he had just started a month prior)

After one application everything was gone.

give this one a try if you got the mites. THIS SHIT WORKS!

ok, so pretty much iv had a spider mite infestation for about 3 weeks now. up untill now i was just cuttin off leaves (the bad ones) because we have had lots of rain. i recently have tried this trick, you need.

1 litter spray bottle
juice from the hottest peppers u can find
2 table spoons of soap (perferably dove)


add about 1 to 2 table spoons of the pepper juice to the soap then mix this up . add that to the water and stir, not mix.

this will deture almost all insects from eating your plants, i suggest you only use this towards the beginning of flowering. you dont wanna smoke hot bud lol.

another trick is to subsitute the pepper juice for garlic, most insects hate the taste of garlic and wont bother to take a 2nd bite. includeing spider mites.
liqued garlic works best, but whole garlic will work or dryed garlic . you must soak whole or dryed garlic over night in water though.
you can also use the garlic trick on ur buds up to 4 weeks from harvest, i dont recommend this after 4 weeks to harvest. no1 wants italian buds lol.

Keep the chemicals in the lab... Keep your plants happy and healthy! Do it Mother Natures way...

I highly recommend Ladybugs! Get a BIG container of them for about $9 and you will begin to have results almost immediately.

More good news: The good ladies eat a host of other critters too. Just keep a paper towel wet for their water supply and they like fruit pits with some fruit still on the pit... or they do tend to become cannibals.

Hope this helps!

SOGLAD

thank you this thread helped so much. you just saved my crop.

i apply newspaper sheets on my pots to prevent soaps reach the soil , once u got mites u eventually get married with them unless u nuke the entire building the plants are with pesticides every 4 to 6 months , learn to leave with them ruther trying to kill them , u kill urself too in the proscess , dont kill them up toss them out of ur plants , low temps high wind + humidity is ur friend and they dont like it at all , im saying it again what it kills them can kill u too , soaps are good but they dont eliminate them from the erea where they came from , soaps and oils can just douche them away during the critical 4 -5 weeks of the flowring and that means u have aplied it during the vegetative stage just before the turn , on the last weeks of flower u toss them away with strong water spray , thats the only HEALTHY way to use a spider mite control , ladybugs can help but only for short periods and still if u are hard infested u need water sprays to get rid of theyre ( arghhh i forgot the word , the linings they produce from theyre mouths ... the thin cottons they walk over ) *web

make applies of strong pestisides in the grow erea before u start the grow , clean grow space and beyont assures not mutch hide outs for the litle bastards

SNS-217 Spider Mite Control is the BEST way to KILL MITES. It even kills the eggs. It is a newer product on the market, but it really works. I read about it in High Times magazine. It's all natural, food grade safe, and it wont harm your plants. I've tried so many products: Floramite, Neem Oil, and Liquid Lady bug. Sure, these products might kill the mites but adult mites lay thousands of eggs that can hatch every 2-3 days. I wasted so much $$$$ just trying to kill the adults over and over. With SNS-217 I got rid of all the mites (including their eggs) and I haven't had a problem since. This is the only product on the market that kills the eggs!!!!!! I hope this helps everyone as much as it has helped me and my Happy Plants

you have fungus gnats. the eat dead roots and can damage newer healthy roots. they start out as eggs. then hatch into little white worms, that would explain your caterpillars. the caterpillars turn into little bugs that look like mites but they are not mites, they are baby fungus gnats. you might see them bounce around when you go to water. after they get into the adult stage they can fly, spread, and lay more eggs. the web you seen on the roots was probably mold or fungus which was a food source to them.

spider mites on the other hand are arachnids and make webs between the stems and nodes. you will see a lot of spots under fan leaves. they suck the juices out with their needle like mouth. then they lay eggs under.

sounds to me like you misidentified. lucky for you fungus gnats are far less of a pest than spider mites. put down a layer of sand. i actually am in the process myself of killing them with this method. neem oil failed me as far as long term treatment.

burjzyntski said:

I'm 100% sure Ive got a spider mite infestation and I'd like some help on how to kill them.

I've heard that soapy water will do the trick, but I'm concerned that the soap will bring the soil's pH up to a dangerously basic level (maybe), so would you use lemon juice or vinegar to level the pH out?

I've heard the soapy water trick from two different people, and neither said anything about adding lemon juice/vinegar, and you can always lower the pH later (acidify it), so I think I'll go ahead and do this...?

Any suggestions? Comments? Feedback?

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Is easy to get thrips and spider mites. Riptide 5% Pyrethrin gets the mites, Mosquito dunks get the thrips in soil I bought a cheap electric Black and Decker Fogger and use 4 different brands of ammo in case they adapt to using the same kind. I kick their ass and pace waiting fer some eggs to hatch, here kitty, kitty, its time to meet DADDY. Pow, wack, boom, bang like Batman I win again.

skiweeds said:

you have fungus gnats. the eat dead roots and can damage newer healthy roots. they start out as eggs. then hatch into little white worms, that would explain your caterpillars. the caterpillars turn into little bugs that look like mites but they are not mites, they are baby fungus gnats. you might see them bounce around when you go to water. after they get into the adult stage they can fly, spread, and lay more eggs. the web you seen on the roots was probably mold or fungus which was a food source.
[...]
sounds to me like you misidentified. lucky for you fungus gnats are far less of a pest than spider mites. put down a layer of sand. i actually am in the process myself of killing them with this method. neem oil failed me as far as long term treatment.

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Okay, THAT'S what I had. The ebb/flow tray tends to stay damp, ESP when covered in roots.
Thanks for the good information.