HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"

:wall:Hi Calibuzz, I just read your article on your natural way to kill spider mites and I really would like to try your pepper recipe. My question to you is. I have already sprayed my girly-girls with Ferti-Lome it is a Fruit Tree Spray. I did this on Saturday am, early 2:00am, and with the spray I am using now I can use everyday up until harvest. I would like to make and use your pepper spray, but what I now need to know is, would it be OK for me to use my fruit spray that I used and then on the next application which I would like to do within 48hrs can I use your pepper recipe without any harm to my girly-girls? I appreciate any of your words of wisdom. thanks in advance and look forward to reading your reply. Have a great weekend and peace to you always as well.....peace from the nw hippiechic

HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%
By Calibuzz - 30 year grower

View attachment 1831939
Cured Clone - see new growth!

You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.

As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.

The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."

Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz

"Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."

Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"

I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.

Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
:fire:The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.

NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.

"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.

HERE IS WHAT TO DO

Making the Calicleaner

1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.

HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.

WHAT’S NEXT??

Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.

However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.

Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!

Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.

Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.

Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!

The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.

Caliclean works,

Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.

Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace be with you always,

Calibuzz

View attachment 1831939View attachment 1831941View attachment 1831940

Image one: Cured Clone - see new growth.
Image two: Cured Nursery - all plants mite free after caliclean!
Image three: After the Storm - I was out hiking the mountains and witnessed this.

There is hope at the end of every rainbow; don't give up!
 

TenEmies

Well-Known Member
people will bitch and say that its bad to use but avid will kill every fucking mite you hae and they wont come back. the shit is off the hook

Is it still working? Avid is only decent for adult mites not eggs.. It can kill eggs but not all time.. Needs to be three.. So use avid then use floor mite or nuke me then use Forbid at the end to make sure cause I've seen two spotted mites walk thru avid and all above used by its self only
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
First off, it's floramite, not floor mite. LoL- you guys kill me sometimes. Floramite kills eggs and mites, Avid only mites. Floramite kills on contact only. Avid is absorbed by the leaves and leaves a residual "killer" for 28 days. After the 2 or 3rd week of flowering, use only natural products like Mighty Wash or neem oil.

Lastly some products kill the mites on contact, other work differently and kill over a few days. The key to all of them is a VERY thorough spray on all parts of the plant. Always follow directions exactly as stated on the package. Wash all plants before harvesting to wash off residuals.......
 

mackdown

Member
I can't count how many times Ive read something similar to this. YOU CANNOT KILL SPIDER MITES. I have tried everything and nothing works.
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
I can't count how many times Ive read something similar to this. YOU CANNOT KILL SPIDER MITES. I have tried everything and nothing works.
I disagree........a combo of Floramite and Avid, 4 weeks apart will do the trick for you. I had them on and off for 2 years-each time showing themselves during the 2nd or 3rd week of flowering each crop. THE KEY IS the spraying technique. Most people that have them and can't get rid of them don't do a proper job when spraying. Thorough means spraying every single inch of every single plant, then the pots, floor and side walls too. Sometimes twice. Lastly, it's always better to be proactive meaning spraying even if you don't see them. Just figure they are there someplace and spray anyway. I think I killed them all the last couple of weeks of my last grow and I'll be spraying anyway the 2nd week of flowering JUST IN CASE. This way if they are there hiding, it will stop them from getting a foothold in the room again. I also completely clean the room AND POTS after each grow, which everyone should do anyway.
 

Toxichris

Member
I live in India and i dont get Habanero peppers here, besides even if i do, they're way too expensive. But there is a pepper that is small and native to India and is considered even hotter than habanero. can i use this instead? i dont really know what its called. Plus, will my plants get affected if any of the solution should trickle down into the soil?
 

MrMeanGreen

Active Member
The killer with mites is the eggs, getting shot of the mites is easy but keeping them at bay is the fucker. If you are still in veg the best way I have found is to take you plants when the soil is pretty dry. Into the bath and absolutely soak it in a weak solution of eco washing up liquid and water in a decent sprayer, I mean soak it to the point it is nearly falling over with the weight. leave it for 10 minutes then go back to it with a warm shower of clean water and rinse it down thoroughly. Then leave the shower on the top of the soil to rinse the soap suds through. The soap in the solution gunks up the mites mouths so to speak and they cant eat. I nkow it will flush the soil through but ya plant will survive easily until the next feed is due. I now nip of any old or damaged leaves that aren't 100% perfect as the likelyhood is they have eggs on.

Whilst your doing this you also need to treat the environment they live in.

Often i never see them again for the rest of that crop but they always come back.

Not advised when in flower, fuck with ya buds.

Sometimes it's not about getting rid of them it is managing them.
 

GreenThumbSucker

Well-Known Member
The killer with mites is the eggs, getting shot of the mites is easy but keeping them at bay is the fucker. If you are still in veg the best way I have found is to take you plants when the soil is pretty dry. Into the bath and absolutely soak it in a weak solution of eco washing up liquid and water in a decent sprayer, I mean soak it to the point it is nearly falling over with the weight. leave it for 10 minutes then go back to it with a warm shower of clean water and rinse it down thoroughly. Then leave the shower on the top of the soil to rinse the soap suds through. The soap in the solution gunks up the mites mouths so to speak and they cant eat. I nkow it will flush the soil through but ya plant will survive easily until the next feed is due. I now nip of any old or damaged leaves that aren't 100% perfect as the likelyhood is they have eggs on.

Whilst your doing this you also need to treat the environment they live in.

Often i never see them again for the rest of that crop but they always come back.

Not advised when in flower, fuck with ya buds.

Sometimes it's not about getting rid of them it is managing them.
Use Forbid 4f and they are gone forever. Forbid 4f is super expensive, like $400 per pint, but you can get a few ML at a time on ebay for $15 - $25. 1 ml makes a gallon of strong spray, .5 ml makes a gallon of less strong spray.

Forbid kills all mites and eggs. You do not have to spray it on the undersides of the leaves, just on the top and you do not have to saturate the whole plant. Just get it as good as you can. It kills through the leaves systemically. Spraying once kills everything. Managing them sucks. Kill them.

If you do use forbid 4f, do NOT use it during budding. It keeps killing systemically for 6 weeks after you spray. If you spray your pots and the floor around the plants a few weeks after spraying them, you do not get reinfected.

I had a years long mite infection, then I got this stuff and they went away after the first spraying and never came back. I still spray them preventivly when I first put the clones in the system, but thats all. Don't mess around, just slaughter them and be done with it.

Many say you should switch up with different products, but the maker of forbid says that isn't necessary because of the way it kills. I used only forbid and they disappeared period.

You can get 1/4 oz with 1 ml measuring pipette on ebay for $25. Like I said, 1 ml makes 1-2 gallons. 1/4 oz will last you a lifetime. I am still on the first gallon I mixed up, have barely made a dent in my supply in a year. Don't mess around and wreck crop after crop trying to get rid of them, this stuff is a mite Holocaust.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forbid-4F-spidermite-formula-1-4oz-Free-Lightning-fast-shipping-with-tracking-/251153008317?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a79e2c6bd
 

Brandawg92

Active Member
Cant kill spider mites? Hahahhahaha ok. I had em, and theyre gone now thats that. But aphids, while they seem less damaging are hard to kill with azadirachtin
 

sfbrewer

Member
I plan on using Forbid right around the time I flip. We had mites at week 6 last grow, so I plan on going with a integrated pest management approach outlined in an earlier thread. Basicly, rotating Forbid, Mite Rid, Avid, Azamax, etc. so that the mites don't build up a resistance to the pesticides. I also had hermies last grow, so I will be applying Dutch Masters Reverse within the first week of flower and then 10 days later. Since we are also constantly compating powdery mildew, I will likely spray some Eagle 20 early on in the flower stage also. I sprayed E20 in veg and so far so good. My question is, with all this going on, what would be the proper timing of these sprays? Please save your breath about cleanliness, light leaks, etc. We are in preventative mode and want to eliminate the known problems so that we can deal with our new, unkown problems. I just am looking for some advice on which to do first, second, third...if it even matters...thanks
 

citizen8

Member
Greetings Citizens...new to the site.

I have a 4x4x6 tent into my first grow with four 12 inch clones, (3 Jack Herer and 1 Afgoo) and 1 mystery plant started from seed. They are all about two weeks into flower. I was inspecting clones in another room and found some little buggers on a couple of them, hit them with some neem and read about the pepper spray. Made some up and thoroughly applied spray to flowering babies. I will see what the results are from both potions, and will post the results.
:peace:
 

sfbrewer

Member
Hey Kid, I don't want you to think that my life is one problem after another, but we do have our challenges. We have been able to get though a few grows, but there are always something new. So, knowing that, we try to do a proactive approach to stopping what we know we will encounter: namely PM, Mites and now nanners or hermies. I figure if we can set up a program to go after what we know is in our environment and deal with that, we can deal with the next. hey, like they say, if it was easy everybody would be doing it
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
AVID!!! It's systemic and stays within the leaves for around 4 weeks killing mites that are sucking the leaf juices. Don't use within 48 days of the end of flowering. It's the only thing that truly works with 1 thorough application.
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
I found the peppers spray was nearly impossible to totally remove. I sprayed fully with fresh water days after my last treatment and it didn't seem to do much with reducing the "hotness" of the buds. I stopped trying to smoke them- just too irritating to the lungs. Never again.
 
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