the point you raise is fairly valid. it is very important with fem seeds made in that manner that you watch for hermies closely as their is always the chance. i personally feel its worth the risk overall in this case but making some seeds with a bagseed male too wouldnt hurt either. just one little lower bud can give plenty of seeds so it wouldnt be that big of a loss.
original poster, if you want to get a perpetual grow going it would be easier and quicker i think to forget about seeds for a while. especially if one of your primary concerns is having a constant steady supply of meds. all you need to do is take a few clones from this current plant and put them in a seperate veg area somewhere, since you'll be cloning from plant in 12/12 it will take a bit longer to get them reverted and going. when your plant in the flower area is done this first generation may not quite be where you want it size wise to get 3 or 4 good clones off so you may need to veg them in the flower area a week or two after the first plant is done flowering so they get bigger and more mature. by the time the generation 2 is done flowering the clones of generation 3 should be plenty large enough to take 3 orr 4 clones off each and be put into flower. once you get cloning mastered and have as many clones each generation you want you can cut down to taking 1 clone per plant each generation. then you can have plenty of spare clones to play with and make as many seeds as you'd like and you'll have good constant harvests every few months. cloning is incredibley easy. I use a method that can take a bit longer for rooting than other methods but is so easy and foolproof it makes up for it. no worrying about humidity, no worrying about the moisture level in the cloning medium, no worrying about cloning powder(ive found in water cloning that personally it doesnt seem to help anything adding a little bit of rooting powder to the water or dipping the clones in gel first), no worrying about misting, no worrying about powdery mildew, only things you have to worry about is that the cups have enough water in them and that you do not give them too much light. heres the guide that got me into it.....
How do I clone plants?
As easy as cloning is to the masses that use powder, liquid/gel rooting hormone, bubblers and soil, etc. There is an even less complex method of cloning that is so easy, it must have been around for decades, if not centuries. The only ingredients involved are water, light, and the cutting you would like to root. In the example I?m going to show, I?ve cut three different sizes of clone. The first with two leaves and a single growing tip (S). The next has four nodes, but still only a couple large leaves (M). The third is 6? tall, has seven nodes and several sets of good-sized leaves (L).
As with normal cloning, you immediately dip the cutting in the water for about 15 to 30 seconds, tweaking it to dislodge any air bubbles that may be present. But the biggest difference is, you won?t be removing the cutting from the water until it has roots big enough to support the foliage above. Make sure the cup, which contains the cutting, is opaque. This prevents the light from shining directly on the roots.
So far, I?ve mentioned the cuttings and the water, but the most important part is the light. I have made this method work 100% of the time simply by sitting my cuttings on a windowsill that receives no direct sunlight. In fact, slightly shaded would be even better. In the evenings (short days), I sit them on an end table over 7 feet from a ceiling mounted 100-watt incandescent bulb. At bedtime, I just turn off the lights like normal, and when I get up in the AM its back to the windowsill. During the longer daylight hours they can be left on the sill full time. Remember, no direct sunlight.
The picture shows my three cuttings in their water cups. M & L have barely an inch of water to sit in. Any more and it would cover one of the leaf stems. The smaller one stayed in the plastic because the stem was too short to sit in water and stay upright in the cup. Do what?s necessary to keep at least ½? of the stem in the water.
Notice the glass that diffuses light, an extra measure against too much light exposure.
The clones grew roots at far different speeds. S showed in seven days, with a small ¼? long root and another small protrusion.
By the time S?s roots reached this level of development (nine days), L was just putting out the first nubs that would be roots. M has shown no inclination of rooting at all. Searching for an answer, I changed the water in Ms cup, but I think it boils down too the thickness of the stem. Both M&L have the same size stem but L has far more foliage on top.
S is doing far better than the others (seen below) and M is finally starting to show.
M showed roots in 14 days and was planted on day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
L showed roots on day 11 and was in soil at day 18.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
S showed roots at seven days and was in the soil at 15.
This picture was taken just before transplant.
