How to clean extracts?

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
I have about 600G of bud I have been trying to process into hash oil and experimenting with. For 100g, I used acetone and was impressed it with the results, but was really worried about the safety. for 200G I used everclear but it was way more costly, took longer and didnt seem to absorb the same amount of oil per ml. The bud was cut up, soaked in a jar of the solvent at room temperature, then poured through a very cheap metal coffee filter, probably atleast 150 micron then the bud was placed into a ziplock bag and squeezed the last bits of solvent out. Then it was slowly evaporated. The resulting oil obtained is about 100ml in a pint jar. The color is very dark and doesnt seem to be homogenous at all. Sometimes it appears dark red, with golden sediment int he bottom. Sometimes appears to be dark green/black oil. The viscosity is the most interesting part, it seems to be a liquid even below room temperature. It does seem to harden up well in the freezer and also boils within a couple seconds in the microwave. Im not too familiar with how all this works but the purity of my oil seems to be quite high, atleast 60%. The things that i am worried about though is the stability of it, Bacterial growth and inadvertent extraction of dust from the surface of the bud. I now have some bud soaking in 70% ISO that has been frozen. The idea here being that the unwanted plant components are frozen in water and the liquid ISO contains the Cannabinoids. I will see how that works out but how can i clean up my end result? I was thinking that I could dissolve the oil in vodka, push it through a extra fine filter, then evaporate the ethanol, let the oil settle out of the water, then decant it off??????
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
Basically, How do I turn Rick Simpson Oil into a more potent extract. I realize I may lose some terpenes though.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
How does hash oil behave when combined with water? will it sink or float? If i was to add it to boiling water and stir it well, everything i dont want should dissolve right?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Oil and water don't mix so don't try that.

All the solvents you've been using are polar solvents that will dissolve oils and non-polar substances that you really don't want in the final product. Sugars, salts and waxes all end up in the oil. Do a search for QWISO to understand how that works and the procedure is the same using ISO, EverClear, acetone, methyl hydrate and other polar solvents like it.

Butane, petroleum ether and naphtha are examples of non-polar solvents that water soluble substance won't dissolve in. They are pure hydrocarbons and would float on top of water if you mixed them together. This makes it possible to do a separation using a small amount of something like naphtha to absorb the oils you want while getting rid of what you don't want in the water part.

Once you have made your iso oil you dissolve it in the polar solvent then add that to some water in a seperatory funnel, shake the hell out of it for a while, let the two phases separate then drain the water portion off the bottom and be left with the oil in the solvent that you evaporate off to get your cleaner oil. As most people don't have things like seperatory funnels I've used plastic liquor bottles like this.

Do the same as above in the liquor bottle shaking a lot so all the stuff that can go into the water does then allow it to sit and separate. Maybe shake it up some more if it separates quickly as you can't overdo the shaking and the more you do the cleaner the final product to a point. Then put it in the freezer until the water portion is froze solid and pour off the top layer of solvent and oil. You may want to filter it but if careful no sediment should be in it.

I use a Pyrex pie plate on top of a simmering pot of water on a hot plate outside to evap off the solvent with some vigorous stirring to get all the solvent out. When it seems to be done add a couple drops of water and stir it more until the water is all gone and by then it's as free of solvents as you'll get it without a vac chamber.

I use naphtha as a polar solvent and I get that by distilling Coleman's camp stove fuel to get rid of the rust inhibitors and other stuff in it. Gotta be Coleman's as the cheap stuff has a less pure mix and boils at a higher temp. You also need to know what you are doing so you don't blow yourself up.

If I have a lot of solvent to get rid of I put the mix in my still and recover the solvent for re-use. I do that with butane too but it's not something for rookies to try. Different still setup as well.

Be safe!
 

Drowning-Man

Well-Known Member
I have about 600G of bud I have been trying to process into hash oil and experimenting with. For 100g, I used acetone and was impressed it with the results, but was really worried about the safety. for 200G I used everclear but it was way more costly, took longer and didnt seem to absorb the same amount of oil per ml. The bud was cut up, soaked in a jar of the solvent at room temperature, then poured through a very cheap metal coffee filter, probably atleast 150 micron then the bud was placed into a ziplock bag and squeezed the last bits of solvent out. Then it was slowly evaporated. The resulting oil obtained is about 100ml in a pint jar. The color is very dark and doesnt seem to be homogenous at all. Sometimes it appears dark red, with golden sediment int he bottom. Sometimes appears to be dark green/black oil. The viscosity is the most interesting part, it seems to be a liquid even below room temperature. It does seem to harden up well in the freezer and also boils within a couple seconds in the microwave. Im not too familiar with how all this works but the purity of my oil seems to be quite high, atleast 60%. The things that i am worried about though is the stability of it, Bacterial growth and inadvertent extraction of dust from the surface of the bud. I now have some bud soaking in 70% ISO that has been frozen. The idea here being that the unwanted plant components are frozen in water and the liquid ISO contains the Cannabinoids. I will see how that works out but how can i clean up my end result? I was thinking that I could dissolve the oil in vodka, push it through a extra fine filter, then evaporate the ethanol, let the oil settle out of the water, then decant it off??????
ISO is hydroscopic, the water wont seperate and i doubt it will freeze at that concentration of alcohol
 

kulucriss

Active Member
Hi Guys. I am making my own oil using Ghanain bush weed, it's good but the yeild is pretty poor. I use 100% Chemical grade IPA and blend with the ground bush. sieve it and filter it till clear then use a crock pot with the solution in a water bath, takes about 6 hours to get rid of the IPA and I am left with a brown oil as thick as gas tar, very difficult to handle but easy to wipe a skin on then smoke, does great in a vaporiser too.
thing is, from 2oz of bush I am getting just 4-5gr of oil. That's working out at £20/gr. Any advice on how to increase yield chaps?
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys. I am making my own oil using Ghanain bush weed, it's good but the yeild is pretty poor. I use 100% Chemical grade IPA and blend with the ground bush. sieve it and filter it till clear then use a crock pot with the solution in a water bath, takes about 6 hours to get rid of the IPA and I am left with a brown oil as thick as gas tar, very difficult to handle but easy to wipe a skin on then smoke, does great in a vaporiser too.
thing is, from 2oz of bush I am getting just 4-5gr of oil. That's working out at £20/gr. Any advice on how to increase yield chaps?
The only way to increase the yield is to soak longer in the IPA which will just pull out more crap that won't get you high and reduce the quality further than it is now.

Actually there is another way. Start with a higher grade of pot but then the costs go up too.

GIGO
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
I understand the nonpolar thing a bit better but it still seems out of reach as i dont really have access to them. im going to investigate KLEEN-STRIP naptha. hopefully i dont go blind.
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
I understand the nonpolar thing a bit better but it still seems out of reach as i dont really have access to them. im going to investigate KLEEN-STRIP naptha. hopefully i dont go blind.
Methyl hydrate/wood alcohol/methanol is the one that makes you go blind if you drink it and you have to drink quite a bit. Naphtha will work great. Don't soak for too long tho. Pour it thru the filter as soon as it starts going green then a quick rinse.

Polar just means it dissolves oils, non polar does oils and water solubles. Naphtha is polar. Or the other way around but Naphtha is better than ISO for making oil. Highly flammable! Take care.
 
Top