how much longer?

EC is electrical conductivity. It's a way to measure the amount of nutrients, salts and impurities in water.

ahh okay. check this out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ4fQaUTHCY

hydro is bigger. is it becuase the roots formed faster in the lighter coco, or just becuase chemical its a better way to yield more? or did they neglect the organic plant/start with a smaller clone?

also during flower, should it get more or less water then in veg? i keep hearing them say they flush then let medium dry for 5 days. why would this benefit the buds? is this just becuase hes using coco? is this just becuase hes drowing the plant becuase of chemical nutes?

he keeps looking at the soilless when he says he flushes and lets it dry out

I don't think you should be worrying about hydro. Stick to one thing, learn it, master it. Then move on.

Different than what?
Like Mr2shim says, figure out how to do ONE thning correctly FIRST.
You keep jumping around, comets, sun, watering, hydro, EC, BS, do you have A.D.D.?

View attachment 2482001noo i will stick to earth (till my bag runs out at least ) probably will do coco then.

im just saying, for seedlings i want to put them in soil, but i want to make a sip system, so maybe the roots will develop quicker and go into veg quicker?

so far day 8, and theyre still in seedling stage with 12 hours of sun per day.

i didnt like my root structure at 4 weeks. my tomato plant had a much more developed roots at 4 weeks.

View attachment 2482001View attachment 2481993View attachment 2481994

here goes the sip system i want to create . something like this for my next batch of seedlings. how deep do you think the wick has to be into the soil? can it just be sitting under it? my soil does have a wetting agent in it.

So, are you Doug or Bob Mckenzie?

so here is my tomato plant, five weeks old today.

so what happens is the flowers open wide, then when they get pollinated, they close up and make a tomato.

youll notice its really bushy, becuase i didnt prune the suckers (or popcorn nugs) id rather it be bushy instead of tall and giving all energy to main head.

there is a four week old photo in here just for comparison. i guess its still going through the "stretch". its stretching more wide than tall, which is fine by me!

bakatare, youre right, its just taking up viable light energy, but i planted a tomato and a basil to try and offset the cannabis smell.

How's that short flowering one doin? The one that looks like a big bud

bmeat said:

cfls. this was my first plant ever grown, and i know its a very bad outcome.

i have two new sprouts, that will be as beautiful as my tomato plant is. this is it at 3.5 weeks, just entered the stretch and showing me preflowers. just transplanted it to a bigger container. View attachment 2473074
View attachment 2473076View attachment 2473077
when the plant had fan leaves..and a main cola..its leaves were very slim. how can you tell what kind of plant it is by the shape of the buds leaves? i wanna know what this bagseed is!

how much longer do you think i should wait? i want mostly cloudly. i feel like letting trichs go amber is just letting them degrade

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WTF homeslice? Those are fucking tomato plants!

echlectica said:

WTF homeslice? Those are fucking tomato plants!

Click to expand...

Earlier he claimed to have planted it to try and hide the weed smell.

Bakatare666 said:

Earlier he claimed to have planted it to try and hide the weed smell.

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LOL did he really?

Mommy's gonna find out.

robert030188 said:

How's that short flowering one doin? The one that looks like a big bud

Click to expand...

not bad, smelling good. i have to stop with the nutes becuase i was burning her, and ill be starting the flush (even super soil and organic fertilizer)

they say sativas can take 8-12 weeks, but if conditions are not good to great, itll be on the longer end of the estimate. since mine was abused and hurt for a bit, i think its gonna be a little longer for her. the 21st will be 9 weeks.

ill put up a picture of her later, shes def getting more mature. pistils are turning from white to a darker shade, and there a lot more pistils. its gonna be like half of a mine cola on a real cannabis plant.

i also learned last night that cfl and led are great bulbs, probably even better than mh and hps watt per watt, just becuase mh and hps bulbs have a lot lower c.r.i index then cfl.

led can be tuned in to provide the full spectrum of sun, run cool, dont use a lot of power, and you can get them extra close, but right now theyre too expensive to even consider.

i also learned that what when we see a bulb as pure or super bright (like 4k) it means its green, and therefore its bad to grow with since plants dont like green thats why they reflect it (learned this from some great heads on here)

but at the same time;

Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt

they put out more lumens per watt, but at a lower color rendering index

bmeat said:

not bad, smelling good. i have to stop with the nutes becuase i was burning her, and ill be starting the flush (even super soil and organic fertilizer)

they say sativas can take 8-12 weeks, but if conditions are not good to great, itll be on the longer end of the estimate. since mine was abused and hurt for a bit, i think its gonna be a little longer for her. the 21st will be 9 weeks.

ill put up a picture of her later, shes def getting more mature. pistils are turning from white to a darker shade, and there a lot more pistils. its gonna be like half of a mine cola on a real cannabis plant.

i also learned last night that cfl and led are great bulbs, probably even better than mh and hps watt per watt, just becuase mh and hps bulbs have a lot lower c.r.i index then cfl.

led can be tuned in to provide the full spectrum of sun, run cool, dont use a lot of power, and you can get them extra close, but right now theyre too expensive to even consider.

i also learned that what when we see a bulb as pure or super bright (like 4k) it means its green, and therefore its bad to grow with since plants dont like green thats why they reflect it (learned this from some great heads on here)

but at the same time;

Approximate light production:
Incandescents: 17 lumens/watt
Mercury vapor: 45-50 lumens/watt
Fluorescents: 60-70 lumens/watt
Metal halide: 90 lumens/watt
High pressure sodium: 107 lumens/watt

they put out more lumens per watt, but at a lower color rendering index

Click to expand...

Do you read what you type? Nice job at contradicting yourself in the same post.

BTW, the best, by far the best light to grow with is CMH. Then it's HPS/MH, then it's CFL, then LED.

The reason I say led is the worst is because that shit is massively gimmickey. Sure it will grow great bud, but not dense heavy, trichome packed bud. I've seen it time and time again.

But what do I know. I'm just some idiot that grows in my moms house and I just graduated high school so I think I'm an adult and know everything in the world.

i understand..i always do that so we can discuss what is right and wrong. lumen and c.r.i. are not the same thing. lumens is essentially brightness, and c.r.i. is how well the color is produce compared to the sun or a flame.

i would think that a cfl would be the best, since it is a full spectrum bulb, it runs cool (can get it close to plants, dont have to vent too heavy) and has the best average c.r.i. to $$ ratio.


"
Some examples of some common and competitive light sources color temperature and CRI values are: Candle: 1700k 100 CRI
High Pressure Sodium: 2100k 25 CRI
Incandescent: 2700k 100 CRI
Tungsten Halogen: 3200k 95 CRI
*Solux Bulb: 4100k 98 CRI
Cool White: 4200k 62 CRI
*Ott-Lite™ Pro: 5000k 82 CRI
Clear Metal Halide: 5500k 60 CRI
*Verilux® "Natural Spectrum®": 5500k 82 CRI (also called HappyEyes® and Trucolite Phosphor Technology&#8482
Natural Sunlight: 5000-6000k 100 CRI
*BlueMax™: 5900k 96 CRI
Daylight Bulb: 6400k 80 CRI
*Sharper Image Bright as Day™ Lamp: 6400k 80 CRI (also called "wide-spectrum","daylight spectrum","natural spectrum")
*NextTen SunWhite® Lamp: 6400k 82 CRI
*Bell&Howell Sunlight Lamp: 6500k 80-85 CRI *FirstStreet Balanced Spectrum®: 6500k 84 CRI
*=Marketed as a "full spectrum" or similar to sunlight source
"

so 4000k may be useless, since its essentially green, but why dont we use 5000 or 5500 for veg, instead of 6400, if the natural sunlight is 5000-6000?

bmeat said:

i understand..i always do that so we can discuss what is right and wrong. lumen and c.r.i. are not the same thing. lumens is essentially brightness, and c.r.i. is how well the color is produce compared to the sun or a flame.

i would think that a cfl would be the best, since it is a full spectrum bulb, it runs cool (can get it close to plants, dont have to vent too heavy) and has the best average c.r.i. to $$ ratio.

Click to expand...

Please, don't ever in your entire life try to give me advice.

Since you think you know everything. Tell me what lumen is and how it's useful to a plant.

bmeat said:

whatever, i learned today from a guy on here that our sun will not super nova. it wont even nova, itll just die out

dissapointing.

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hahah no super nor nova

Bakatare666 said:

Earlier he claimed to have planted it to try and hide the weed smell.

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hahah. this kid is too much, man please just go to barnes and noble and pick up a book on cultivation. Do some chores around the house, get 25 buck and ride your bike there. You wont regret it, i promise. lmao

mr2shim said:

Please, don't ever in your entire life try to give me advice.

Since you think you know everything. Tell me what lumen is and how it's useful to a plant.

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copy and pasting doesn't count! make sure he knows that lol

you guys are too funny.

how do i contact an admin?

bmeat said:

you guys are too funny.

how do i contact an admin?

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use your brain

Wiki............