How long until brand new living soil coots mix becomes alive?

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
Mixed up the soil last week and transplanted them a day after making the mix. I noticed a bunch of deficiencies and necrotic leaves. I'm sure that it is a PH issue, since my amendments are all slow release and used minimally. 1/2 cup per cubic foot per crab, neem, kelp. Alongside oyster flour shell, basalt, and gypsum at a cup per cubic foot.

Been spraying and root drenching AACT, every other day to boost the beneficials and supplementing with foliar feed of kelp meal, silica, fulvic, and yucca to get them through the stress. Noticed some fungas gnats, so I've been spraying for bugs with a light dose of neem oil every 3 days.

How long will it take before the PH normalizes? Should I topdress with Oyster Shell Flour?
 
Last edited:

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Well Im a nube aroud here but arnt you supposed to let the soil sit for a month first?
Not Coot's/Cornell's mix actually, one of the other benefits of it. It doesn't contain anything that "burns" so it can be potted and used immediately. Though, letting it sit for a few days to a week is recommended for the purpose of jump starting the microbes. Or you can just water some Grower's Recharge in, then good to go!


Mixed up the soil last week and transplanted them a day after making the mix. I noticed a bunch of deficiencies and necrotic leaves. I'm sure that it is a PH issue, since my amendments are all slow release and used minimally. 1/2 cup per cubic foot per crab, neem, kelp. Alongside oyster flour shell, basalt, and gypsum at a cup per cubic foot.

Been spraying and root drenching AACT, every other day to boost the beneficials and supplementing with foliar feed of kelp meal, silica, fulvic, and yucca to get them through the stress. Noticed some fungas gnats, so I've been spraying for bugs with a light dose of neem oil every 3 days.

How long will it take before the PH normalizes? Should I topdress with Oyster Shell Flour?
That is 100% your problem. Please post photos ASAP so we can see more.

When you say fulvic, you mean like FulPower? That stuff is not supposed to be used every other day. We're talking once a month for FulPower, using it that often will wreak absolute havoc on your plants. Liquid Kelp should also not be used every other day, 1-2 times a month max.

And when you say AACT, do you mean pure compost tea or are you putting organic amendments in them too?

Stop using the teas, especially if these teas have organic amendments. These organic amendments are meant to be slow released, but brewing them in a tea makes them immediately available and turns your living soil into a pseudo-synthetic style grow.

Stop using teas, and stop spraying with FulPower that often. Your plants should return to normal in about a week or two.

I'm sure that it is a PH issue, since my amendments are all slow release and used minimally. 1/2 cup per cubic foot per crab, neem, kelp. Alongside oyster flour shell, basalt, and gypsum at a cup per cubic foot.
How do you know for sure it's a pH issue? Those amendments are both gradual and instant release. Upon coming into contact with water, nutrients will be made immediately available and over time as they decompose. Even if they were slow release, this wouldn't be effecting your pH.

The only possible way you could have a pH issue is if your water is excessively hard like mine is. And even then, it takes weeks for the salts from hard water to build up to the point where pH problems start to manifest. Unless your faucets in your house have calcium/salt deposits on them, your water is likely fine.

I'm 110% sure the issue is how often you're using FulPower. Excess use of FulPower/TM7/etc can kill plants in very short order, and the damage they do is irreversible. Please post pics ASAP, I'd like to see how bad the damage is and know for sure if the plants can be salvaged or not.
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
Not Coot's/Cornell's mix actually, one of the other benefits of it. It doesn't contain anything that "burns" so it can be potted and used immediately. Though, letting it sit for a few days to a week is recommended for the purpose of jump starting the microbes. Or you can just water some Grower's Recharge in, then good to go!




That is 100% your problem. Please post photos ASAP so we can see more.

When you say fulvic, you mean like FulPower? That stuff is not supposed to be used every other day. We're talking once a month for FulPower, using it that often will wreak absolute havoc on your plants. Liquid Kelp should also not be used every other day, 1-2 times a month max.

And when you say AACT, do you mean pure compost tea or are you putting organic amendments in them too?

Stop using the teas, especially if these teas have organic amendments. These organic amendments are meant to be slow released, but brewing them in a tea makes them immediately available and turns your living soil into a pseudo-synthetic style grow.

Stop using teas, and stop spraying with FulPower that often. Your plants should return to normal in about a week or two.



How do you know for sure it's a pH issue? Those amendments are both gradual and instant release. Upon coming into contact with water, nutrients will be made immediately available and over time as they decompose. Even if they were slow release, this wouldn't be effecting your pH.

The only possible way you could have a pH issue is if your water is excessively hard like mine is. And even then, it takes weeks for the salts from hard water to build up to the point where pH problems start to manifest. Unless your faucets in your house have calcium/salt deposits on them, your water is likely fine.

I'm 110% sure the issue is how often you're using FulPower. Excess use of FulPower/TM7/etc can kill plants in very short order, and the damage they do is irreversible. Please post pics ASAP, I'd like to see how bad the damage is and know for sure if the plants can be salvaged or not.
I've sprayed with an aloe, fulvic, kelp, yucca, silica mix once so far. The rest of the sprays have been with neem oil as a preventative, I use fulvic and silica with this also. It's a fulvic concentrated powder from kelp4less that I mixed up. As far as watering the soil, I've used humic acid(kelp4less used at recommended dosage), yucca to hydrate the medium once before and after planting. The AACT(no nutrients) has been used as a spray and soil drenched once. Sorry, I should've been more specific. But they are almost two weeks into veg in their new medium. Filling out the canopy currently. They are showing signs of improvement the past few days actually! They were a lighter shade of green and are now regaining their color. I'm thinking they were just very stressed and needed to adjust to the new soil and the change of lighting schedule, much higher concentrations of co2 and the type of light also(mh to hps). I'm came to the conclusion that it could be very possible it was the ph, as this coots mix variant is high in CSPM that I copied from Buildasoil(similar to their light mix). Basically mixed and limed, used in a span of 2-3 days. I did a soil slurry test and the mix came out at 5.2 with no lime :o. Once added, took another reading and sits at 6.2-6.3. I figured that the kelp foliar feeding will give them the nutrients they were asking for and promote more vigorous root growth to fill in the new 25 gallon pots, transplanted from a 3gallon. How often should I be using these fulvic and humic acids? Will post pics when I get the chance!
 
Last edited:

kratos015

Well-Known Member
I've sprayed with an aloe, fulvic, kelp, yucca, silica mix once so far. The rest of the sprays have been with neem oil as a preventative, I use fulvic and silica with this also. It's a fulvic concentrated powder from kelp4less that I mixed up. As far as watering the soil, I've used humic acid(kelp4less used at recommended dosage), yucca to hydrate the medium once before and after planting. The AACT(no nutrients) has been used as a spray and soil drenched once. Sorry, I should've been more specific. But they are almost two weeks into veg in their new medium. Filling out the canopy currently. They are showing signs of improvement the past few days actually! They were a lighter shade of green and are now regaining their color. I'm thinking they were just very stressed and needed to adjust to the new soil and the change of lighting schedule, much higher concentrations of co2 and the type of light also(mh to hps). I'm came to the conclusion that it could be very possible it was the ph, as this coots mix variant is high in CSPM that I copied from Buildasoil(similar to their light mix). Basically mixed and limed, used in a span of 2-3 days. I did a soil slurry test and the mix came out at 5.2 with no lime :o. Once added, took another reading and sits at 6.2-6.3. I figured that the kelp foliar feeding will give them the nutrients they were asking for and promote more vigorous root growth to fill in the new 25 gallon pots, transplanted from a 3gallon. How often should I be using these fulvic and humic acids? Will post pics when I get the chance!
If that fulvic acid product is anything like the ones I use, they are to be used very sparingly. Once a month and 1/3-1/4 tsp, and I cut that in half.

Seems like it was just a pH issue then, 6.2-6.8 and anything in between is right on the money.

The transplant shock also may have contributed. In the future, get yourself a good mycorrhizae product (I like VAM) and sprinkle it on the root balls before transfer if possible/convenient/safe. A ProTekt/silica would be best sprayed after transplant, your liquid kelp may be different from mine but mine says use every 2-3 weeks so I do it monthly.

Less is more here friend. From what I'm reading, if the pH has been changed then everything should show improvement within the week. They also need to take some time to settle in their new home first too. They'll be fine.

You're running CO2, so your temps are perfect. I run 80-86 @ 1200 ppms.

Have you been top dressing with your neem/crab/kelp meal?
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
If that fulvic acid product is anything like the ones I use, they are to be used very sparingly. Once a month and 1/3-1/4 tsp, and I cut that in half.

Seems like it was just a pH issue then, 6.2-6.8 and anything in between is right on the money.

The transplant shock also may have contributed. In the future, get yourself a good mycorrhizae product (I like VAM) and sprinkle it on the root balls before transfer if possible/convenient/safe. A ProTekt/silica would be best sprayed after transplant, your liquid kelp may be different from mine but mine says use every 2-3 weeks so I do it monthly.

Less is more here friend. From what I'm reading, if the pH has been changed then everything should show improvement within the week. They also need to take some time to settle in their new home first too. They'll be fine.

You're running CO2, so your temps are perfect. I run 80-86 @ 1200 ppms.

Have you been top dressing with your neem/crab/kelp meal?
Ah!! I’m sure that fulpower stuff is extremely potent! I will definitely use it sparingly thanks for the suggestions! My kelp is coots rehydration turning it into a paste with a blender method then diluted with water. I figured that every time I’m using any type of foliar or soul drench some fulvic for foliar and humic for drenches help carry the nutrients to the plants and serve as a microbe food. I have used a very very light top dressing! In my 25 gallon pots I put about .5 cups of Neem, crab, kelp, biolive from DTE(this stuff has added beneficial and mycorrhizae!! The amount that’s in a 50 lb sack has way more then what you could find in something concentrated as compared to products like Great White, I figured if sprinkled on top of white dwarfs that hopefully it’ll attach itself to the roots of the cover crop)and a cup of gypsum. Then watered in with a compost/Vermicompost tea that already has the ingredients as suggested by Coot when making a worm bin. Sprinkles some white dwarf clovers and mulched with rice hulls at about 1 1/2 - 2 inches. I think I may also but overwatering slightly.. but it’s hard to tell as I check almost daily on my blumat blusoak system. I push my fingers into the soil about two knuckles deep into the soil that has a tensionmeter reading 80 and on a cheap moisture probe as a reference. The arrow for that probe lies right at a tick after the “moist” into the “wet”. I try to adjust my watering mainly based upon the posture of the fan leaves.. it’s been awhile since I’ve seen these babies pray. I’m running 1500 ppm with my single ended hps hovering at around 18 inches from the canopy(can’t wait to upgrade these budget lights into some quality LEDs but I figured if I can’t get the nutrients right with HPS the LED is going to be too much lol). Just topped and super cropped to even out the canopy.

What kind of strains are you running Kratos? Just a random interesting question. This year for me I have a few Bodhi Seeds keeper selections from his Santa Cruz Bluedream x Sunshine Day Dream and the GG4 x Sunshine Daydream if you’re familiar! Ice Cream Cake, Gelato, Garlic Cookies and an Ac/Dc original clone cuts also! I’m really trying to find something that’s easy to bowl trim and minimal scissor work. I think I’m leaning to cookie phenos..

Oh and I made a 300 gallon indoor Vermicompost bin lol!! Used some wood to elevate my hard plastic 3x6 bed I wasn’t using. Keep it at a slight downward angle to drain the leachate. Put in a 400 gallon fabric pot in the bed then filled with a garden compost and a little bit of my base mix of peat moss and pumice. Bought a 14 gallon tub of vermicastings with love red wigglers mature and young with mature amber cocoons From Craigslist. And dumped it into the bed. Seeing these guys crawl around is strangely so fun haha! So my plan is to make enough Vermicompost to top dress at a rate of 2 inches per pot at the end of the cycle as a way of cycling in more organic material and to reamend and possibly a .5 cup dose of biolive. Do you think this will be enough to keep the soil in optimal shape?? The compost was made with this recipe. For every 100 gallons of compost I put in 2 pounds or roughly 4-4.5 cups of Neem kelp crab. Then 8 pounds of gypsum, oyster shell flour and basalt.

@kratos015
 
Last edited:

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Ah!! I’m sure that fulpower stuff is extremely potent! I will definitely use it sparingly thanks for the suggestions! My kelp is coots rehydration turning it into a paste with a blender method then diluted with water. I figured that every time I’m using any type of foliar or soul drench some fulvic for foliar and humic for drenches help carry the nutrients to the plants and serve as a microbe food. I have used a very very light top dressing! In my 25 gallon pots I put about .5 cups of Neem, crab, kelp, biolive from DTE(this stuff has added beneficial and mycorrhizae!! The amount that’s in a 50 lb sack has way more then what you could find in something concentrated as compared to products like Great White, I figured if sprinkled on top of white dwarfs that hopefully it’ll attach itself to the roots of the cover crop)and a cup of gypsum. Then watered in with a compost/Vermicompost tea that already has the ingredients as suggested by Coot when making a worm bin. Sprinkles some white dwarf clovers and mulched with rice hulls at about 1 1/2 - 2 inches. I think I may also but overwatering slightly.. but it’s hard to tell as I check almost daily on my blumat blusoak system. I push my fingers into the soil about two knuckles deep into the soil that has a tensionmeter reading 80 and on a cheap moisture probe as a reference. The arrow for that probe lies right at a tick after the “moist” into the “wet”. I try to adjust my watering mainly based upon the posture of the fan leaves.. it’s been awhile since I’ve seen these babies pray. I’m running 1500 ppm with my single ended hps hovering at around 18 inches from the canopy(can’t wait to upgrade these budget lights into some quality LEDs but I figured if I can’t get the nutrients right with HPS the LED is going to be too much lol). Just topped and super cropped to even out the canopy.

What kind of strains are you running Kratos? Just a random interesting question. This year for me I have a few Bodhi Seeds keeper selections from his Santa Cruz Bluedream x Sunshine Day Dream and the GG4 x Sunshine Daydream if you’re familiar! Ice Cream Cake, Gelato, Garlic Cookies and an Ac/Dc original clone cuts also! I’m really trying to find something that’s easy to bowl trim and minimal scissor work. I think I’m leaning to cookie phenos..

Oh and I made a 300 gallon indoor Vermicompost bin lol!! Used some wood to elevate my hard plastic 3x6 bed I wasn’t using. Keep it at a slight downward angle to drain the leachate. Put in a 400 gallon fabric pot in the bed then filled with a garden compost and a little bit of my base mix of peat moss and pumice. Bought a 14 gallon tub of vermicastings with love red wigglers mature and young with mature amber cocoons From Craigslist. And dumped it into the bed. Seeing these guys crawl around is strangely so fun haha! So my plan is to make enough Vermicompost to top dress at a rate of 2 inches per pot at the end of the cycle as a way of cycling in more organic material and to reamend and possibly a .5 cup dose of biolive. Do you think this will be enough to keep the soil in optimal shape?? The compost was made with this recipe. For every 100 gallons of compost I put in 2 pounds or roughly 4-4.5 cups of Neem kelp crab. Then 8 pounds of gypsum, oyster shell flour and basalt.

@kratos015
Nutrient blends like DTE Bio Live (good stuff btw) may have mycorrhizae, but it isn't pure and won't be enough to attach itself to the roots. Dusting mycorrhizae on a transplant is practically mandatory IMO. Sure, you can technically go without it. But having the mykos bond to your roots immediately will ensure the survival of your plant. Think of the symbiosis going on, the mykos will do everything in their power to ensure the survival of the plant as they are dependent on the plant's survival. They all take care of each other because they need each other to thrive.

Great White is a good product, but its way overpriced. Same sized jar of Endo Mycorrhizae goes for $8-$12 on Amazon.

Blumats are designed for perfect watering, if you're using Blumats you shouldn't have to worry about watering in the slightest. I don't trust water probes, unreliable IMO. Lift test and knuckle has always worked for me.

The leaves praying this is actually a bit of a myth, by the way. When they're praying it isn't praying for more light, they're praying for more Magnesium. This is because Mg is a crucial component in photosynthesis, and Mg is typically the first to show signs of deficiency and/or be locked out.

What's the wattage of your SE bulb? 18 inches is pretty close. Even with the hand test under the light, just because there isn't heat stress doesn't mean there won't be light stress. Be cautious.

I'm not running anything fancy at the moment. I'm mostly an outdoor grower, so I grow strains that can handle the extreme cold and heat of my climate. I've got some Green Crack plants outdoors now, experimenting to see how well they do in the winter. I've got 2 Strawberry Cough plants in a 4x8 Scrog under a 1000w DE MH bulb, and 3 Monkey OG and 1 Critical Blue next to the screen.

Been wanting to run Bodhi gear for the longest time, but I've never been fond of sexing plants. Potential waste of time if I get males. Someday when I'm in my own place and have the ability to get a separate veg room going.

I hate trimming now lol. Was fun when I started, but after doing it for 10+ years it got old fast. My last year's summer outdoor was ~13lbs between 5 plants, I didn't even trim 3lbs of it. Just turned it all into bubble hash. I'll be doing nothing but trimming top buds, and turning the rest into bubble from now on.

Half oz of bubble lasts me longer than a QP of flower. And the taste is too good, I'm spoiled now lol. Which works just fine, because running hash means little to no trimming. Just trim the fan leaves off before harvest, cut the buds and throw into my work bag, make hash. Done. No trimming, no worrying about a perfect dry/cure for flowers, a tenth of the jars compared to flower, and incredible flavor from running fresh.

It is entirely possible to have a successful grow with nothing but EWC top dress. It sounds like you are well on your way to making EWC that are capable of achieving this. Worms love OSF and neem! Just make sure your Crab Meal and Basalt are as finely ground as possible, less time to decompose and the sooner the worms can munch on it. Worm castings that have been made from high quality compost, kelp/crab/neem meals, and OSF will be of the highest quality. Add a little langbeinite to the bin too (little goes a LONG way) so your EWC has some K, Mg, and Sulfur in it too. This way, your EWC will have absolutely everything it needs and will be of the highest quality.

You having access to EWC like those will put you leaps and bounds ahead of most of us, myself included. At that point, you'd pretty much only need something like TM7 for micro-nutrients (Cu, Zn, Mn, etc).

Sounds like you're well on your way. Only thing you need now is to stick with it and get personal experience with the living soil method and the plants themselves.
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
Nutrient blends like DTE Bio Live (good stuff btw) may have mycorrhizae, but it isn't pure and won't be enough to attach itself to the roots. Dusting mycorrhizae on a transplant is practically mandatory IMO. Sure, you can technically go without it. But having the mykos bond to your roots immediately will ensure the survival of your plant. Think of the symbiosis going on, the mykos will do everything in their power to ensure the survival of the plant as they are dependent on the plant's survival. They all take care of each other because they need each other to thrive.

Great White is a good product, but its way overpriced. Same sized jar of Endo Mycorrhizae goes for $8-$12 on Amazon.

Blumats are designed for perfect watering, if you're using Blumats you shouldn't have to worry about watering in the slightest. I don't trust water probes, unreliable IMO. Lift test and knuckle has always worked for me.

The leaves praying this is actually a bit of a myth, by the way. When they're praying it isn't praying for more light, they're praying for more Magnesium. This is because Mg is a crucial component in photosynthesis, and Mg is typically the first to show signs of deficiency and/or be locked out.

What's the wattage of your SE bulb? 18 inches is pretty close. Even with the hand test under the light, just because there isn't heat stress doesn't mean there won't be light stress. Be cautious.

I'm not running anything fancy at the moment. I'm mostly an outdoor grower, so I grow strains that can handle the extreme cold and heat of my climate. I've got some Green Crack plants outdoors now, experimenting to see how well they do in the winter. I've got 2 Strawberry Cough plants in a 4x8 Scrog under a 1000w DE MH bulb, and 3 Monkey OG and 1 Critical Blue next to the screen.

Been wanting to run Bodhi gear for the longest time, but I've never been fond of sexing plants. Potential waste of time if I get males. Someday when I'm in my own place and have the ability to get a separate veg room going.

I hate trimming now lol. Was fun when I started, but after doing it for 10+ years it got old fast. My last year's summer outdoor was ~13lbs between 5 plants, I didn't even trim 3lbs of it. Just turned it all into bubble hash. I'll be doing nothing but trimming top buds, and turning the rest into bubble from now on.

Half oz of bubble lasts me longer than a QP of flower. And the taste is too good, I'm spoiled now lol. Which works just fine, because running hash means little to no trimming. Just trim the fan leaves off before harvest, cut the buds and throw into my work bag, make hash. Done. No trimming, no worrying about a perfect dry/cure for flowers, a tenth of the jars compared to flower, and incredible flavor from running fresh.

It is entirely possible to have a successful grow with nothing but EWC top dress. It sounds like you are well on your way to making EWC that are capable of achieving this. Worms love OSF and neem! Just make sure your Crab Meal and Basalt are as finely ground as possible, less time to decompose and the sooner the worms can munch on it. Worm castings that have been made from high quality compost, kelp/crab/neem meals, and OSF will be of the highest quality. Add a little langbeinite to the bin too (little goes a LONG way) so your EWC has some K, Mg, and Sulfur in it too. This way, your EWC will have absolutely everything it needs and will be of the highest quality.

You having access to EWC like those will put you leaps and bounds ahead of most of us, myself included. At that point, you'd pretty much only need something like TM7 for micro-nutrients (Cu, Zn, Mn, etc).

Sounds like you're well on your way. Only thing you need now is to stick with it and get personal experience with the living soil method and the plants themselves.
I’m running thousands for me SE. Looked up online for par readings on the bulbs and it comes out to 1100-1300 umol or something of that nature at 18”. It’s not exact but I really wanted to cap my lights out so I can run my 1500 ppm of co2! I’m loving the growth too! Nice squat bushes now I just need to install my steel pipes for the whole room trellis!

Tm7? I figured with the Neem and the kelp all the micronutrients needs would be hit?

I agree! I’m in the same boat with the bubble too spoiled now to put in the effort to roll up a spliff! Made some delicious full melt with this crazily mutated plant that was monster cropped.

What’s the most affordable way to introduce quality mycorrhizae?? Something water soluble would be nice. I have been inoculating my plants at a young age with mycos but not too much once transplanted. I’ve seen farms spray the roots actually instead of the powder method. Seems like that way would be more effective in terms of amount of area evenly covered.

And as far as regular seeds.. yeah fuck the whole phenohunting process. If I had to go back 3 years I would’ve sourced all clones from nurseries. And choose 4 hype strains. Instead of phenohunting and trying to dial in 100s or different phenos. At most Id just use small tent 12/12 from seed and see what I find lol. The phenohunting and sexing took too much time and space for me!
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
I’m running thousands for me SE. Looked up online for par readings on the bulbs and it comes out to 1100-1300 umol or something of that nature at 18”. It’s not exact but I really wanted to cap my lights out so I can run my 1500 ppm of co2! I’m loving the growth too! Nice squat bushes now I just need to install my steel pipes for the whole room trellis!

Tm7? I figured with the Neem and the kelp all the micronutrients needs would be hit?

I agree! I’m in the same boat with the bubble too spoiled now to put in the effort to roll up a spliff! Made some delicious full melt with this crazily mutated plant that was monster cropped.

What’s the most affordable way to introduce quality mycorrhizae?? Something water soluble would be nice. I have been inoculating my plants at a young age with mycos but not too much once transplanted. I’ve seen farms spray the roots actually instead of the powder method. Seems like that way would be more effective in terms of amount of area evenly covered.

And as far as regular seeds.. yeah fuck the whole phenohunting process. If I had to go back 3 years I would’ve sourced all clones from nurseries. And choose 4 hype strains. Instead of phenohunting and trying to dial in 100s or different phenos. At most Id just use small tent 12/12 from seed and see what I find lol. The phenohunting and sexing took too much time and space for me!
Mykos WP is a wettable mykos powder you can water in. I'm sure it's no where near as good as the regular, but I have both. I add a little WP and dry microbes sometimes into my top dressing mixes. But I always put a bunch of the regular directly on the roots at every transplant.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
I’m running thousands for me SE. Looked up online for par readings on the bulbs and it comes out to 1100-1300 umol or something of that nature at 18”. It’s not exact but I really wanted to cap my lights out so I can run my 1500 ppm of co2! I’m loving the growth too! Nice squat bushes now I just need to install my steel pipes for the whole room trellis!

Tm7? I figured with the Neem and the kelp all the micronutrients needs would be hit?

I agree! I’m in the same boat with the bubble too spoiled now to put in the effort to roll up a spliff! Made some delicious full melt with this crazily mutated plant that was monster cropped.

What’s the most affordable way to introduce quality mycorrhizae?? Something water soluble would be nice. I have been inoculating my plants at a young age with mycos but not too much once transplanted. I’ve seen farms spray the roots actually instead of the powder method. Seems like that way would be more effective in terms of amount of area evenly covered.

And as far as regular seeds.. yeah fuck the whole phenohunting process. If I had to go back 3 years I would’ve sourced all clones from nurseries. And choose 4 hype strains. Instead of phenohunting and trying to dial in 100s or different phenos. At most Id just use small tent 12/12 from seed and see what I find lol. The phenohunting and sexing took too much time and space for me!
Ran my 1000w SE at 2ft above canopy personally, with CO2 and air vented hoods. But if 18" is working for you, then great!

CO2 is great if your room is in perfect order, and if you're experiencing the benefits of CO2 supplementing then you're definitely doing something right!

TM7 is good shit, just needs to be used sparingly. I actually had someone PM me on here about the FulPower, seems I was confusing it with TM7. TM7 is what you need to be careful with. Lots of people use FulPower in foliar weekly and get good results, I was mistaken and was confusing TM7 with FulPower. TM7 is what'll fuck up plants if you're not careful.

Water soluble mycorrhizae can work, it just isn't as effective as the dry products. The dry products are guaranteed to make contact, where as the water soluble is not. Do a side by side test sometime and see the difference between wet and dry mykos. However, your idea of spraying the roots is definitely intriguing. I'll have to try spraying my roots with a water soluble mykos after applying dry mykos, that sounds incredible for sure.

I love pheno hunting and breeding, but like you pointed out, it just takes too much extra space that not many of us have the luxury of sparing. I tend to avoid nurseries, personally. Many of them lie about what they're giving you, and that doesn't account for the potential contamination/infection problems.

Last nursery I used was like 8-9 years ago, Progressive Options in Van Nuys. Those guys were absolute artists, trustworthy, and took a lot of pride in their quality of work. While I'm sure some nurseries are reputable, for every one legitimate one there's over a dozen sketchy ones.

I just buy feminized seed packs and call it a day. Getting clones from a mother plant is easy, sure. But the taproot and roots from a seedling can never be replicated by a clone.



Not sure about the size of your tent, forgive me if I happened to miss that. But you should look into DE fixtures. They can be had on Amazon for under $200. If you're getting nice squat bushes now, you'd get some monsters with a DE. Much better light spectrum, and a 1000w DE dimmed down to 600w will still outperform a 1000w SE. Just food for thought. If you can keep them 3-4ft from the canopy, they're incredible.
 

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Ran my 1000w SE at 2ft above canopy personally, with CO2 and air vented hoods. But if 18" is working for you, then great!

CO2 is great if your room is in perfect order, and if you're experiencing the benefits of CO2 supplementing then you're definitely doing something right!

TM7 is good shit, just needs to be used sparingly. I actually had someone PM me on here about the FulPower, seems I was confusing it with TM7. TM7 is what you need to be careful with. Lots of people use FulPower in foliar weekly and get good results, I was mistaken and was confusing TM7 with FulPower. TM7 is what'll fuck up plants if you're not careful.

Water soluble mycorrhizae can work, it just isn't as effective as the dry products. The dry products are guaranteed to make contact, where as the water soluble is not. Do a side by side test sometime and see the difference between wet and dry mykos. However, your idea of spraying the roots is definitely intriguing. I'll have to try spraying my roots with a water soluble mykos after applying dry mykos, that sounds incredible for sure.

I love pheno hunting and breeding, but like you pointed out, it just takes too much extra space that not many of us have the luxury of sparing. I tend to avoid nurseries, personally. Many of them lie about what they're giving you, and that doesn't account for the potential contamination/infection problems.

Last nursery I used was like 8-9 years ago, Progressive Options in Van Nuys. Those guys were absolute artists, trustworthy, and took a lot of pride in their quality of work. While I'm sure some nurseries are reputable, for every one legitimate one there's over a dozen sketchy ones.

I just buy feminized seed packs and call it a day. Getting clones from a mother plant is easy, sure. But the taproot and roots from a seedling can never be replicated by a clone.



Not sure about the size of your tent, forgive me if I happened to miss that. But you should look into DE fixtures. They can be had on Amazon for under $200. If you're getting nice squat bushes now, you'd get some monsters with a DE. Much better light spectrum, and a 1000w DE dimmed down to 600w will still outperform a 1000w SE. Just food for thought. If you can keep them 3-4ft from the canopy, they're incredible.
Even better would be to spray with wettable Mykos and then coat the roots with the dry stuff. I never though of using it that way. That's a good freaking idea. I just mist the roots with water and coat the shit outta them with the dry. The dry Mykos sticks way better to moist roots.
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
Ran my 1000w SE at 2ft above canopy personally, with CO2 and air vented hoods. But if 18" is working for you, then great!

CO2 is great if your room is in perfect order, and if you're experiencing the benefits of CO2 supplementing then you're definitely doing something right!

TM7 is good shit, just needs to be used sparingly. I actually had someone PM me on here about the FulPower, seems I was confusing it with TM7. TM7 is what you need to be careful with. Lots of people use FulPower in foliar weekly and get good results, I was mistaken and was confusing TM7 with FulPower. TM7 is what'll fuck up plants if you're not careful.

Water soluble mycorrhizae can work, it just isn't as effective as the dry products. The dry products are guaranteed to make contact, where as the water soluble is not. Do a side by side test sometime and see the difference between wet and dry mykos. However, your idea of spraying the roots is definitely intriguing. I'll have to try spraying my roots with a water soluble mykos after applying dry mykos, that sounds incredible for sure.

I love pheno hunting and breeding, but like you pointed out, it just takes too much extra space that not many of us have the luxury of sparing. I tend to avoid nurseries, personally. Many of them lie about what they're giving you, and that doesn't account for the potential contamination/infection problems.

Last nursery I used was like 8-9 years ago, Progressive Options in Van Nuys. Those guys were absolute artists, trustworthy, and took a lot of pride in their quality of work. While I'm sure some nurseries are reputable, for every one legitimate one there's over a dozen sketchy ones.

I just buy feminized seed packs and call it a day. Getting clones from a mother plant is easy, sure. But the taproot and roots from a seedling can never be replicated by a clone.



Not sure about the size of your tent, forgive me if I happened to miss that. But you should look into DE fixtures. They can be had on Amazon for under $200. If you're getting nice squat bushes now, you'd get some monsters with a DE. Much better light spectrum, and a 1000w DE dimmed down to 600w will still outperform a 1000w SE. Just food for thought. If you can keep them 3-4ft from the canopy, they're incredible.
I have low ceiling height 6-7 feet and the pots are huge already. My next buy for the grow will be LED fixtures 800-1000 watt led fixtures
 

Rurumo

Well-Known Member
Even better would be to spray with wettable Mykos and then coat the roots with the dry stuff. I never though of using it that way. That's a good freaking idea. I just mist the roots with water and coat the shit outta them with the dry. The dry Mykos sticks way better to moist roots.
I like to dust my seeds with it too, that way they're with the roots right from the beginning.
 

kratos015

Well-Known Member
Pictures with better lighting. New growth looks good but what do you guys think of the damages?? Potassium?
Looks like Mg or Iron, if you can post more than just the one photo we'd be able to tell for sure.

The deficiency is on your newer growth/top of the plant, its an immobile nutrient and can't be Potassium.
 

steveydvee

Well-Known Member
I couldn’t post the video so I just took a bunch of screenshots of it. They are in such bad shape!! But they definitely look better then last week that’s forsure! I got fungus gnats also! So very possible a fungus gnats larvae issue? Will a Neem meal tea soil drench be good? Get rid of gnat larvae and possibe remedy for micronutrients? Honestly, I might just chillll with these teas after a drench. My foliage is getting kinda dark. Would hate to have an over fertilization issue. Seems like they are getting better as time goes. Also note that I never defoliate. So some of these issues may be misleading. Looks like I’ll have to go in there and clean it up so I can properly see what the issue is.

Suggestions?
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Top