mogie
Well-Known Member
How do I install a GFCI?
Contributed By: Contagis
Required items:
1. GFCI Tester
2. Wire Connectors (Those caps that are red yellow blue etc...)
3. Flat and Phillips head screw drivers.
4. Insulated needle nose pliers.
This is how my outlet was set-up. It was simple in the middle of two other outlets as it had two main wires; each had its own power, neutral and ground (6 wires in total). I tested the GFCI tester on the outlet -- it has three lights on it. The two yellow lights lit up and the red stayed off. Using the installation chart provided indicated that the outlet was working fine.
Turn off the power at the main service panel, and confirm that the circuit is de-energized by using a voltage tester (voltmeter). Remove the faceplate. Take the power and neutral from one main wire, make sure they are from the same main wire and leave the ground connected to the outlet. Put a cap on each wire, and go back to the breaker box and turn it on. Now put the tester back in and see if there is still power going to it. If power is still going to the outlet, the two wires that you capped should be labelled LOAD. If no power is there the capped wires should be labelled LINE.
Look at the back of your GFCI, find where it says LINE and connect the white wire from the LINE cable you capped or labelled and connect it to the white terminal (SILVER SCREW) on the GFCI. Now connect the black LINE wire to the other side of the GFCI LINE terminal (BRASS SCREW). Ensure that the LINE wires you connected are on the LINE terminals of the GFCI. My outlet had two main wires, so I have another set to connect -- simply do the same with the LOAD wires on the GFCI, white wire to silver/white terminal and black to brass/hot terminal. After the wires are connected REMEMBER TO CONNECT THE GROUNDS. They must be attached under a screw that is on the top or bottom of the GFCI depending how you look at it.
Contributed By: Flowerman
If you install a GFCI in the middle of a circuit to protect additional receptacles down the line, be aware that the more receptacles any one GFCI protects, the more susceptible it is to "phantom tripping" -- shutting off the power because of tiny, normal fluctuation in current flow.
1. Turn off the power at the main service panel, and confirm that the circuit is de-energized by using a voltage tester (voltmeter). Remove the old receptacle. Pigtail all the white neutral wires together, and connect the pigtail to the terminal marked WHITE LINE on the GFCI.
2. Pigtail all the black hot wires together, and connect them to the terminal marked HOT LINE on the GFCI.
3. Connect the grounding wire to the green grounding screw terminal on the GFCI. Mount the GFCI in the receptacle box, and reattach the cover plate. Restore power at the service panel, and test the GFCI according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Contributed By: Contagis
Required items:
1. GFCI Tester
2. Wire Connectors (Those caps that are red yellow blue etc...)
3. Flat and Phillips head screw drivers.
4. Insulated needle nose pliers.
This is how my outlet was set-up. It was simple in the middle of two other outlets as it had two main wires; each had its own power, neutral and ground (6 wires in total). I tested the GFCI tester on the outlet -- it has three lights on it. The two yellow lights lit up and the red stayed off. Using the installation chart provided indicated that the outlet was working fine.
Turn off the power at the main service panel, and confirm that the circuit is de-energized by using a voltage tester (voltmeter). Remove the faceplate. Take the power and neutral from one main wire, make sure they are from the same main wire and leave the ground connected to the outlet. Put a cap on each wire, and go back to the breaker box and turn it on. Now put the tester back in and see if there is still power going to it. If power is still going to the outlet, the two wires that you capped should be labelled LOAD. If no power is there the capped wires should be labelled LINE.
Look at the back of your GFCI, find where it says LINE and connect the white wire from the LINE cable you capped or labelled and connect it to the white terminal (SILVER SCREW) on the GFCI. Now connect the black LINE wire to the other side of the GFCI LINE terminal (BRASS SCREW). Ensure that the LINE wires you connected are on the LINE terminals of the GFCI. My outlet had two main wires, so I have another set to connect -- simply do the same with the LOAD wires on the GFCI, white wire to silver/white terminal and black to brass/hot terminal. After the wires are connected REMEMBER TO CONNECT THE GROUNDS. They must be attached under a screw that is on the top or bottom of the GFCI depending how you look at it.
Contributed By: Flowerman
If you install a GFCI in the middle of a circuit to protect additional receptacles down the line, be aware that the more receptacles any one GFCI protects, the more susceptible it is to "phantom tripping" -- shutting off the power because of tiny, normal fluctuation in current flow.
1. Turn off the power at the main service panel, and confirm that the circuit is de-energized by using a voltage tester (voltmeter). Remove the old receptacle. Pigtail all the white neutral wires together, and connect the pigtail to the terminal marked WHITE LINE on the GFCI.
![](/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.drugs-forum.com%2Fgrowfaq%2F1137_files%2Fgfci1.jpg&hash=a3538cff15d2c9ac7fa2cb320120a50a)
2. Pigtail all the black hot wires together, and connect them to the terminal marked HOT LINE on the GFCI.
![](/proxy.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.drugs-forum.com%2Fgrowfaq%2F1137_files%2Fgfci2.jpg&hash=d70a2b48f0ae58175bd52b8a9ccacf8c)
3. Connect the grounding wire to the green grounding screw terminal on the GFCI. Mount the GFCI in the receptacle box, and reattach the cover plate. Restore power at the service panel, and test the GFCI according to the manufacturer's instructions.
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