how can i add nitrogen to my plant?

HookdOnChronics

Well-Known Member
Really?..... Gonna post the exact same thing twice?..... This exact thread, with the exact plant, by the exact user is in the Marijuana Plant Problems section posted 5 minutes apart. C'mon now, just be patient and you'll get your answers!
 

GreenLynx

Member
I'm thinkin you've got bigger problems than Just N. what is your PH? have you given them Ferts? are those the pot you germed them in or did you transplant??
 

skate4theherb

Well-Known Member
i posted it on here. because i wanted to know an Organics way to help my plant.i thought by posting it on plant help i would just get stuff about Fertilizer.but i wanted to know a way to fix it with out Fertilizer.like baking sode to bring Ph up.
you don't have to be so rude!
i thought this site was about helping people not putting them down.

My Ph is at 6.5. i have not given it and Fertilizer,just water.
I germed my seed in rookwool and the transplanted them after the roots came out the bottom.
The pix are of one plant.
 

Anjinsan

Well-Known Member
No fertilizer for 2 weeks. Do not over water. Do not have the lights too close. Use a oscillating fan in your grow room...it should shake the plant a bit when it sweeps.
 

Anjinsan

Well-Known Member
if you can save this plant...then you can add nitrogen via blood meal which I generally mix into the dirt...then add a few inches of fresh potting soil over the top...then plant the seed.
 

HookdOnChronics

Well-Known Member
i posted it on here. because i wanted to know an Organics way to help my plant.i thought by posting it on plant help i would just get stuff about Fertilizer.but i wanted to know a way to fix it with out Fertilizer.like baking sode to bring Ph up.
you don't have to be so rude!
i thought this site was about helping people not putting them down.

My Ph is at 6.5. i have not given it and Fertilizer,just water.
I germed my seed in rookwool and the transplanted them after the roots came out the bottom.
The pix are of one plant.
~All said with the utmost respect~​

:) The plant is gonna need fertilizer one way or another. Be it organic or chemical, plants need nutrients to live, just like you and me sir. Oh, and if you were wondering about baking soda to bring PH up, why does the title say "how can i add nitrogen to my plant?" :)

:) I wasn't trying to be rude. There is just simply no point in having 2 of the exact same threads by the exact same person with the exact same problem on the exact same plant. :)

:) Did I not give you advice in the other thread about how to add some N to your plant? I guess that isn't help hu? Well how about this, you tell me what you want to hear, and I'll tell you that. :)


How old is your plant?
:) This could be, and most likely is your problem right here... Oh, but you didn't want to hear about fertilizer. I'm so terribly sorry. I apologise. Hope everything works out for you and your non-fertilizer grow :)

Peace out, In love
-Hookd
 

voodoofx

Active Member
Thats a sick puppy! You dont want to hear about fertilizer/nutrients but that is almost certainly the problem. Could be crap soil but it all comes down to what they are having[or not] for dinner.
 

HookdOnChronics

Well-Known Member
Thats a sick puppy! You dont want to hear about fertilizer/nutrients but that is almost certainly the problem. Could be crap soil but it all comes down to what they are having[or not] for dinner.
my point exactly

And Your first post in this thread
I need help adding nitrogen to my plant.
how can i add just nitrogen to the plant?its growing in soil.

i posted the pix of my plant if u know whats wrong with ti can u please help?
Obviously not asking about Fertilizer (N) lol
********************************************************************
And your first post in yout other thread
I need help adding nitrogen to my plant.
how can i add just nitrogen to the plant?its growing in soil.

i posted the pix of my plant if u know whats wrong with ti can u please help
Yea I guess they're only somewhat similar..... lol, Good luck again with the grow anyways man!
 

snew

Well-Known Member
Since your question is about nitrogen - I like to use alpha meal it works great as a tea, I bubble about 1 cup to 4 gallons of water. There is a great thread on here about it. Worm castings are also great organic tea.
 

Hiesman

Well-Known Member
my point exactly

And Your first post in this thread

Obviously not asking about Fertilizer (N) lol
********************************************************************
And your first post in yout other thread

Yea I guess they're only somewhat similar..... lol, Good luck again with the grow anyways man!
for someone who grows with miracle grow i wouldn say much.... quit bein a dick head to the new guy

hiesman out
 

GreenLynx

Member
THAT's the issue, your overwatering her! rock wool, surrounded by dirt looses water less quickly than the dirt! I like bat guano for a good N and P source for my soil crops. Good and organic, do anything with it, Tea, Top dressing, can mix it in and I've even heard of some crazy bastards using it in an folar spray. Hope this helps kid.


P.S. we all start somewhere...
 

Sifr

Member
Have you tried doing a foliage spray? I used a few drops of superthrive (find this at your local greenhouse of grow shop) to 2 quarts of water along with some nutes that are high in nitrogen just a few drops of that as well so you don't burn your plants. spray every few days till you see results.
 

SSHZ

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing your pH is too low- did you add lime to your soil? You should be using a complete hydro fertilizer, mildly deluted about 1/4 strength. I'm guessing that baby won't make it or will be so far behind- it never amounts to anything. Start over is my suggestion, cause that puppy is HURTING!!!!
 

gameover

Member
i posted it on here. because i wanted to know an Organics way to help my plant.i thought by posting it on plant help i would just get stuff about Fertilizer.but i wanted to know a way to fix it with out Fertilizer.like baking sode to bring Ph up.
you don't have to be so rude!
i thought this site was about helping people not putting them down.

My Ph is at 6.5. i have not given it and Fertilizer,just water.
I germed my seed in rookwool and the transplanted them after the roots came out the bottom.
The pix are of one plant.

WHAT UP UR FROM STOCKTON HUH? [CITY OF TREES] whatever,:confused: but lets try and answer some of your probs,it looks like you have a whole lot going on or not going on... This really helped me, if this doesnt help let me know cus I have more to help:joint:

Key on Nutrient Disorders

To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before
making major changes. 1) a) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2.
b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.

2) a) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen (N) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #3.

3) a) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #4.

4) a) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency.
b) If not, keep reading…

5) a) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and
leaves may be small. >> Phosphorous (P) deficiency.
b) If not, go to #6.

6) a) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or
insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K.
b) If not, go to #7.

7) a) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray,
brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N).
b) If not, go to #8…

8) a) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >>Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely).
b) If not, go to #9.

9) a) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning.
b) If not, go to #10...

10) a) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency.
b) If not, #11.

11) a) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf
margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency.
b) If not, #12.

12) a) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn)
deficiency.
b) If not, #13.

13) a) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency.
b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.



Solutions to Nutrient Deficiencies

The Nutrients: Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.

Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.

Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.

Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.

Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use
chelated Mn.

Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the
nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.


Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is
"hard," usually due to too
many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more
than around 200ppm (parts
per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants
have a chronic problem. Ask
your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH,
TDS, and mineral levels (as
well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area.
This is a common request,
especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular
water filters will not reduce a
high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and
de-ionizers will. A digital TDS
meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool
for monitoring the nutrient
levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it.
They run about $40 and up.

General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of
thumb is to use more
nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact
opposite during the flowering
period. For the veg. period try a N:P:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of
course is the same ratio as
20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding
nutrients. If you use a reservoir,
keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for
TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants =
400-800 ppm; large plants =
900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These
numbers are just a guideline, and
many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain
nutrients are "invisible" to TDS
meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual
nutrient levels. When in
doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for
feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or
radish plants nearby for comparison.

PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5
(in rockwool, 5.5-6.1) .
Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at
a high pH (alkaline) above
7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in
acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap
water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic
matter in them tend to get too acidic,
which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy,
and generally the more you pay
the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from
aquarium stores are inexpensive,
but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a
waterproof one. You won't regret it.

Other Things…

Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas,
don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the
plant will be able to take cooler
temps than it otherwise could.

Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled,
dry, and look burnt, mimicking a
nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you
hold it at the top of the plants.
Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be
kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F
(33) if you add additional CO2.

Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is
usually fine.

Mold and fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower
the humidity and
increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves,
wherever they are. Keep your
garden clean.

Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.

Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright
lights, causing small white,
yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some
sprays can also cause
chemical reactions.
 
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