home deopot soil recipe

Mr.Head

Well-Known Member
I'll beg to differ about it being a literal term. The middle of the soil should be around 100 degrees or so, where the bacteria are populating and breaking down the organic matter. Hence the term "cooking." The ambient temps don't play a role because just as most other living organisms they create their own heat. When put in certain temps/conditions the bacteria go dormant and stop populating. Probably why you think subs soil is too much.. I don't think it's enough to be honest. That's just me though ;)
Subs mix costs multiple hundreds of dollars to make outside the USA. Getting the products he uses shipped to me is about $30-50 per item, that is shipping and duty cost, not the cost of the actual item that is extra. Subs mix is not cost efficient outside of America. That and it's overly complicated for the home user who's doing under 10 pots at a time, having 50 different ingredients for a minimum added benefit doesn't make sense. If i had access to his prepared soil I would gladly try it, but you can't get it here either.

Seems like we aren't in disagreement over the cooking. The organisms create their own heat, they don't need the sun, as long as you provide the proper nutrition they will do the work. Does having a big pile of soil out in the sun help? Probably, but it is not a necessary part of soil preparation. Soil will work just fine cooked in 50 liter totes.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Subs mix costs multiple hundreds of dollars to make outside the USA. Getting the products he uses shipped to me is about $30-50 per item, that is shipping and duty cost, not the cost of the actual item that is extra. Subs mix is not cost efficient outside of America. That and it's overly complicated for the home user who's doing under 10 pots at a time, having 50 different ingredients for a minimum added benefit doesn't make sense. If i had access to his prepared soil I would gladly try it, but you can't get it here either.

Seems like we aren't in disagreement over the cooking. The organisms create their own heat, they don't need the sun, as long as you provide the proper nutrition they will do the work. Does having a big pile of soil out in the sun help? Probably, but it is not a necessary part of soil preparation. Soil will work just fine cooked in 50 liter totes.
100% agreed. A soil that is just as good (better IMO) can be made using 5-6 items as opposed to dozens.
 

MistaRasta

Well-Known Member
Subs mix costs multiple hundreds of dollars to make outside the USA. Getting the products he uses shipped to me is about $30-50 per item, that is shipping and duty cost, not the cost of the actual item that is extra. Subs mix is not cost efficient outside of America. That and it's overly complicated for the home user who's doing under 10 pots at a time, having 50 different ingredients for a minimum added benefit doesn't make sense. If i had access to his prepared soil I would gladly try it, but you can't get it here either.

Seems like we aren't in disagreement over the cooking. The organisms create their own heat, they don't need the sun, as long as you provide the proper nutrition they will do the work. Does having a big pile of soil out in the sun help? Probably, but it is not a necessary part of soil preparation. Soil will work just fine cooked in 50 liter totes.

I can see where you're coming from living outside the us. I'm trying to figure why people are willing to pay for his premaid mix when it makes hardly anything. I never said you needed to put it in a hot environment, I listed it as an option to simply speed things up. My mixes sit in totes In a shed. I make about 6 months warth of mix at a time.

It's all about sourcing and changing up ingredients in certain times of need. I can source all the ingredients for a cheap price. But To be honest I could get by on the ewc, guano, kelp meal, azomite. The extras just seem to add that finishing touch.
 

Mr.Head

Well-Known Member
Any body have experience with promix from home depot?
Yes, that's where they sell promix :) Try not to get it outside after it rains, you'll break your back :)

I haven't had any problems, but they do keep it outside sometimes always risk of bugs. Soil that comes in my house cooks for a month with amendments so I should see bugs before hand not much of a concern for me.
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Do your research. If the back of the bag says biosolids, this is what you are getting:

Biosolids, also referred to as treated human sewage, is a term used by the waste water industry to denote the byproduct of domestic and commercial sewage and wastewater treatment. These residuals are further treated to reduce but not eliminate pathogens and vector attraction by any of a number of approved methods and then trucked and land applied to a farm field.[53] Low levels of constituents such as PCBs, dioxin, and brominated flame retardants, may remain in treated sludge.[54][55]

Recent conclusion of thorough review of literature and 20-year field study of air, land, and water in Arizona concluded that biosolids use is sustainable and improves the soil and crops.[56] Other studies conclude that plants uptake large quantities of heavy metals and toxic pollutants that are retained by produce, which is then consumed by humans.[57][58][59][60][61][62]
Full Text

Really makes you want to stick your face in there and get a good whiff of that yummy earthy smell huh? ;)

P-
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
So promix is basically the base soil without any amendments
Promix BX

  • Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss
    (75-85% by volume)
  • Perlite - horticultural grade
  • Vermiculite-horticultural grade
  • Dolomitic and Calcitic limestone
    (pH adjuster)
  • Wetting Agent
  • Mycorrhizae – endomycorrhizal innoculum
    (Glomus intraradices)
Don't count on the mycorrhizae making much of a difference. You're paying for peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, and some lime. If one was so inclined, you could do this much cheaper on your own.

P-
 
Patta post: 10669927 said:
Promix BX

  • Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss
    (75-85% by volume)
  • Perlite - horticultural grade
  • Vermiculite-horticultural grade
  • Dolomitic and Calcitic limestone
    (pH adjuster)
  • Wetting Agent
  • Mycorrhizae – endomycorrhizal innoculum
    (Glomus intraradices)
Don't count on the mycorrhizae making much of a difference. You're paying for peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, and some lime. If one was so inclined, you could do this much cheaper on your own.

P-
I definitely would like to make my own
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Go to home depot, pick up a bag of premier Canadian sphagnum peat moss. It might be a different brand like lakewood, but it has to be organic and sphagnum peat. This should be about $12 for a 3cu ft bale. Add aeration - I think perlite is about the worst possible aeration out there. A partial list of substitutes might be lava rock, pumice, scoria, rice hulls, etc. Add liming agents and call it a day. Liming agents are an aera of discussion. Personally I use a mixture of crab meal, oyster shell, and rock dust. Some use lime, etc. Do a little research. There are a lot of ways to get around paying the premium hydrostore prices, and you get a better quality product.

P-
 

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Go to home depot, pick up a bag of premier Canadian sphagnum peat moss. It might be a different brand like lakewood, but it has to be organic and sphagnum peat. This should be about $12 for a 3cu ft bale. Add aeration - I think perlite is about the worst possible aeration out there. A partial list of substitutes might be lava rock, pumice, scoria, rice hulls, etc. Add liming agents and call it a day. Liming agents are an aera of discussion. Personally I use a mixture of crab meal, oyster shell, and rock dust. Some use lime, etc. Do a little research. There are a lot of ways to get around paying the premium hydrostore prices, and you get a better quality product.

P-
Why you no like perlite? They bag i have is huge, don't like how dusty it is but feel like i gotta use it now.
 

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Why you no like perlite? They bag i have is huge, don't like how dusty it is but feel like i gotta use it now.
Something like scoria or pumice would have more longevity, it doesn't float around in the medium like perlite, more minerals, more porosity, and I don't like the dust from perlite. I think it's pretty toxic. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Oh yeah, if you find it at a landscaping company etc, you can pretty much fill your truck for the price of a one of those big bags of hydrostore perlite.

I'm not saying don't use it, these are just the reasons why I don't like it.
P-
 
[QUOTE="Pattahabi, post: 10670004, member: 68251http://buildasoil.com/collections/all-visible-products/products/pure-worm-castings"check these guys out they have all amendments and free shipping on all orders]

Something like scoria or pumice would have more longevity, it doesn't float around in the medium like perlite, more minerals, more porosity, and I don't like the dust from perlite. I
think it's pretty toxic. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. Oh yeah, if
you find it at a landscaping
company etc, you can pretty
much fill your truck for the price
of a one of those big bags of hydrostore perlite.

I'm not saying don't use it, these are just the reasons why I don't like it.
P-[/QUOTE]Are you familiar with these guys ?
 

SpaaaceCowboy

Well-Known Member
Go to home depot, pick up a bag of premier Canadian sphagnum peat moss. It might be a different brand like lakewood, but it has to be organic and sphagnum peat. This should be about $12 for a 3cu ft bale. Add aeration - I think perlite is about the worst possible aeration out there. A partial list of substitutes might be lava rock, pumice, scoria, rice hulls, etc. Add liming agents and call it a day. Liming agents are an aera of discussion. Personally I use a mixture of crab meal, oyster shell, and rock dust. Some use lime, etc. Do a little research. There are a lot of ways to get around paying the premium hydrostore prices, and you get a better quality product.

P-
I usually buy pro-mix....I add 2 tablespoons of lime per gallon of mix...I believe the pro-mix already has some lime in it too if I'm not mistaken....So, the question is if I buy the Canadian sphagnum peat moss how much lime should I add ?

thnx, SC
 
I usually buy pro-mix....I add 2 tablespoons of lime per gallon of mix...I believe the pro-mix already has some lime in it too if I'm not mistaken....So, the question is if I buy the Canadian sphagnum peat moss how much lime should I add ?

thnx, SC
if the peat moss is 3 cf. doesn't it expand once watered? so does that mean I have to buy equal parts of aeration and compost/castings, to equal the expanded sixe of the peat moss or nah?
 

Deusracing

Well-Known Member
Best recipe is oregons dirt along with. crushed lava from hawaii ALL NATURAL baby I'm growing first soil...got 9 here and 11 more going in next week and buy good pots you will have them foreverIMG_4391.jpgIMG_4392.JPG IMG_4495.JPG
 

SpaaaceCowboy

Well-Known Member
if the peat moss is 3 cf. doesn't it expand once watered? so does that mean I have to buy equal parts of aeration and compost/castings, to equal the expanded sixe of the peat moss or nah?
I mix 4 cups promix dry...cups are 16 oz beers cups that I measure in...then I mix 26 oz of ewc, and then half a beer cup of perlite....Last I add 2 tbsp of lime.
 
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