HLG 320H-C2100A

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Is that just the driver? or do you have fan's running on that circuit too?

390 is about 120% over the expected draw so it would be unusual even with some overhead.

If it's an issue you can dial it down and use the watt meter to estimate the current, or use an ammeter on the DC circuit to dial in an exact current.
 

Malocan

Well-Known Member
151V*2,369A=357,719watt
357,719watt/0,925%(driver)=386,723watt

Maybe his driver has even a bit more Ampere
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Is that just the driver? or do you have fan's running on that circuit too?

390 is about 120% over the expected draw so it would be unusual even with some overhead.

If it's an issue you can dial it down and use the watt meter to estimate the current, or use an ammeter on the DC circuit to dial in an exact current.
Test report is 12% over, plus 6% driver loss...382W? Still, I wouldn't want to see those numbers.

Edit oops @Malocan beat me to it.
 

Malocan

Well-Known Member
Test report is 12% over, plus 6% driver loss...382W? Still, I wouldn't want to see those numbers.

Edit oops @Malocan beat me to it.
driver efficiency @ 115VAC should be around 92% if i follow the datasheet and test report, but still the numbers dont fit
Edit:
152V * 2,369A = 360,008Watt
360,008Watt / 0,92%(driver) = 391,4Watt
 
Last edited:

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Is that just the driver? or do you have fan's running on that circuit too?

390 is about 120% over the expected draw so it would be unusual even with some overhead.

If it's an issue you can dial it down and use the watt meter to estimate the current, or use an ammeter on the DC circuit to dial in an exact current.
Just My Beloved Vero29's And Nothing Else. I Bought Them from Mouser So I'm Going to E-mail Them About This Issue.
 

The Dawg

Well-Known Member
Have you tested your Kill A watt with something else that you know the draw of?

Cheers,
Will
The internal pot is there for a reason... I'm not sure Mouser will be keen on replacing a unit that isn't malfunctioning. Why not just adjust it?
Brother Will Thayer Yes I Have Tested My Killa-A -Watt Meter Against My 400 Watt Cmh And My Inventronics Drivers. All 3 Of My Inventronics Are 320-2100B's And They All Read 343 Watts From The Wall. Which In My Plus Or Minus 10% Mind Is Ok

Brother Rahz I Did Turn Down The Driver To 300 Watts Still These Numbers Don't Make Sense To This 60 Year Old Mind And Why Does An Electronic Device Take 2 Hours To Warm Up. Yes My Mean Wells Start Out Around 345 Then Jump Up To 391 And 373 After 2 Hours Running? These Drivers Remind Me Of The Old Vacuum Tubes. For You Youngens That Was What We Used Before Solid State Circuitry
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
max. current for the HLG 320H = 2.369 Amps
View attachment 3717814
http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/HLG-320H-C/HLG-320H-C2100-rpt.pdf


typ. Voltage for the Vero29 at 2.369 Amps = 38.5 Volts
View attachment 3717817
Led-Power = Volt X Amps = 38.5 V x 2.369 A = 91.2W for one Vero. or 364.8 if you use 4 Cobs
with eff. of the driver (92%) we see 396.5 Watts from the wall.

more power for the @The Dawg
And now he can go ahead and yank it right back down to ~347W for 100% load.
 

NoFucks2Give

Well-Known Member
Start Out Around 345 Then Jump Up To 391 And 373 After 2 Hours Running
Did you ever resolve this issue? The 391 to 373 over two hours can be attributed to thermal dynamics. It takes about two hours for the system to reach thermal equilibrium. During the time the LEDs are heating up. As the temperature increases the forward voltage decreases.

You are measuring the wrong end of the power supply. Watts in means nothing unless you know the watts out. You should use a current shunt and volt meter to measure the current and voltage out.

The 345 to 391 is not as simple without knowing how the LEDs are wired. I'm going to guess there is something wired in parallel. You should not wire LEDs in parallel and power them with an HLG without some circuitry to balance the loads in the parallel paths. A resistor does not count as circuitry.

Without load balancing the parallel paths with struggle with each other due to the thermal effects on the LED's dynamic resistance changing with the temperature changes. that can play out in various ways depending on differences in forward voltage changes due to the current changing the forward voltage. One path the current will increase raising the forward voltage while the current decreases in the other path it's forward voltage decreases. The current rising in the one path will increase the temperature and decrease the forward voltage. This goes on and on for days if you do not turn off the lights.

This is more dramatic when the LEDs are on different boards at different temperatures. Bottom line, it appears the LEDs are incorrectly wired. But that is just a guess.

I doubt Mouser was of much help. They are nice guys but this was not their problem. The wattage of the supply is a minimum, not a typical or a maximum. If you still have a problem and would like to resolve it, I can help you do that.

Remind Me Of The Old Vacuum Tubes.
Vacuum tubes always reminds me of slide rules. When I was going to school it was vacuum tubes and slide rule. And tuition was $12 a semester, a pound of weed cost $125. A quarter pound of Red Lebanese hash was $300. The draft had just ended.
 
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