Hermaphrodite Plant??

ProphetNova

Member
Hey all! First time newbie here!

I posted some pictures about a week ago with my 4 week old girls being overwatered. One of the three seemed stunted from initial growth which was weird. Now, I found a little ball as well as some pistils around potential bud sites. I took a few pictures.

What do I do? I heard this was rare. Do I tear they/them up from the ground to avoid pollination and a seedy stash? I attached pics and comparison pics. (Basically update pics for those of you who followed my last post, they're doing so much better, thanks to all who gave me advice!)
 

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ProphetNova

Member
Also; I believe they are very close to pre-flower, if not already in it. Is it too late to pull it and toss it?
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
yep, as the man says, pix 1,2 & 3 are male/female/3 plants respectivly. if both preflowers on one plant, hermi
you say it, are you refering to the male/hermi plant? i would unless you want some seeds in with your bud, the preflowers will/can produce seed if pollinated this early..
if you can see a male testicle/ball, and a white V haired sack, thats preflowers. the plant is just telling you the sex
 

Django66

Well-Known Member
yep, as the man says, pix 1,2 & 3 are male/female/3 plants respectivly. if both preflowers on one plant, hermi
you say it, are you refering to the male/hermi plant? i would unless you want some seeds in with your bud, the preflowers will/can produce seed if pollinated this early..
if you can see a male testicle/ball, and a white V haired sack, thats preflowers. the plant is just telling you the sex
I'm still learning this stuff. I found seeds in my last grow. All feminized seeds but a lot of stress. I did it, my fault. I want to know what to look for this time. Are these things are pollen sacks? The seeds were found in another plant with no signs of weirdness.GOPR0237.JPG
 

Django66

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. There was a hermie in the room somewhere. Is that photo of a male plant or a male ball on a hermaphrodite?
The bract didn't affect the quality of the buds. I'm trying a different breeders' beans and I"m growing less plants. It was too hard to keep an eye on things with so many plants in an overcrowded grow space. Still learning.
 

ProphetNova

Member
yep, as the man says, pix 1,2 & 3 are male/female/3 plants respectivly. if both preflowers on one plant, hermi
you say it, are you refering to the male/hermi plant? i would unless you want some seeds in with your bud, the preflowers will/can produce seed if pollinated this early..
if you can see a male testicle/ball, and a white V haired sack, thats preflowers. the plant is just telling you the sex
Gottcha. So I just pull it up and toss it yeah?
 

Django66

Well-Known Member
how did you stress them the last time?
Yikes. Every way possible. I can't honestly answer that. Now, I stopped thinking I was so smart, and I took some advice and bought a quality PH meter. My water is 7.8 ph and 7.4 when I checked it later. Water was one of my problems. Purple plants? Soil? Phosphorus? No bugs or mold. Green leaves most of the time. There was too much going on to ever know what went wrong.
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
well, depending on your tollerance and the quality of the strain, ive had some great buzzes from smoking males b4, so i personaly, would pinch out any tips, dry them and smoke. shame to waste them if there there.
but if you smoke a lot, you may not get a lot from it, apart from a bit of green flavour.
just put the growing tips on top of your light and they will dry quite fast,
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
Yikes. Every way possible. I can't honestly answer that. Now, I stopped thinking I was so smart, and I took some advice and bought a quality PH meter. My water is 7.8 ph and 7.4 when I checked it later. Water was one of my problems. Purple plants? Soil? Phosphorus? No bugs or mold. Green leaves most of the time. There was too much going on to ever know what went wrong.
lol, yeah, been there too.
so is it hydro or soil? you mentioned a ph meter, so im asuming hydro. you dont have to be that exact with soil, its very forgiving as long as you dont just chuck plant food at it.
 

Django66

Well-Known Member
lol, yeah, been there too.
so is it hydro or soil? you mentioned a ph meter, so im asuming hydro. you dont have to be that exact with soil, its very forgiving as long as you dont just chuck plant food at it.
Just soil grow. You got me! lol. I do "chuck food at it". I thought if my water PH was way out of wack it would hurt my plants over a long period of time. I'm wising up.
 

go go kid

Well-Known Member
well it depends on many issues.
what type of soil are you useing, differant soils make a huge differance.
like i grow in soil ive made up myself, this consists of recycled organic potting/genral purpose soil, the soil left behind when moles leave soil above ground, leaf mulch, compost and some reclaimed soil from the last grow, most go's on the compost heap and is mixed in well.
dry amendments/ferts , just water and away you go.
others use a soil that comes in bags, like happy frog.
so include as many details as you can about the grow.
brand of soil, brand of ferts, ph of water. well/tap or rain, that sort of thing
and temps/light/size of grow area. just as many details as possable, obviously photo's help tremendously. a picture paints a thousand words.
many a situation could have been sorted out sooner if a photo was supplied to a situation.
with soil, you need not feed it for many weeks before you need to chuck food at it, food messes around with the soils ph and its ability to give the plant nutrients,
soil is very forgiving when you compaire it to hydro, a ph thats wildly over the ph range will stop it from takeing up nutrients, 1677969134766.png
heres a simple chart showing you the ph range. soil is more forgiving then that in real life. but try and stay within the two ph's
the starting PH of the water and a PPM/TDS meter will also help you with water quality.
but never be afraid to ask any questions, even if you think there silly ones, you will encounter the trolls who love to jump on questions they know the answer too and think are stupid. but it will get pointed out to you whats what and acuratly too, there are many great knollageable growers on the site.
so any questions, just ask away. but do use the SEARCH function b4 you do, theres answers to practicly every concievable question to do with growing.
but failing that, if it gets too confuseing, then ask away. best of luck
 

Django66

Well-Known Member
Great Info thanks. I've since changed the soil drastically and am having much more success. I did what most rookie growers do and took perfectly good soil and amended it with everything but unicorn droppings. Not that any of the amendments are bad but I just started adding kelp meal, lobster and crab meal gaya green this and that. Too many amendments were added, and I had no idea what each one does or how it interacts with the others. So now I'm down to using a base soil that I've been using successfully. I have only added EWC and perlite.

Soil Base - 33% each by volume, local garden soil, dark reed sedge peat (not the peat your thinking of.) and all-purpose sand.
please look up "dark reed sedge peat" before you slam me with negative comments.
For any pot I will add 30% vermiculite and/or perlite to the base and EWC.
I mulch with rice hulls. No more Gnats.
No more liquid nutrients for no reason at all. I need to just watch the plants closer. I had no idea about how a plant fades. I had healthy plants on my first grow and all of the sudden with a few weeks to go leaves were turning yellow and red. Just the fade but I burnt them with some liquid nutrients. Now I've done my research and I'm on a better path.
I scheduled a professional water test for my well water. I have the option of watering straight from the well or from the house after it's been filtered and softened. The water softener uses potassium chloride instead of sodium chloride. I had rotten egg smelling rusty water from the well when I moved in. There is an iron and hydrogen sulfide filter/aerator. then everything passes through a sediment filter again. I have no idea what is or is not in it. A professional water technician will ease my mind and eliminate one factor. I would love to be able to use my water without having to alter it.
Lighting - mars hydro bar style lights for 4x4 and 5x5. I am growing autos on an 18/6 schedule. I followed the manufacturer's instructions as far as light intensity and distances at first. I have since turned down the intensity of the lights. It's turned into a continues grow so I raise the seedlings up only slightly because the light is already 80%. It's working out good so far. I have a cheap lux meter but it's kind of useless in my mind.

Lots of fan action and I'm keeping the whole room in the temp/humidity zone. I'm not going to raise or lower the humidity unless it gets way out of bounds. The reason is, I have seedlings, plants that are just flowering, plants that have been flowering and plants almost ready to chop all in the same room. With Auto's I leave the tent doors and side flaps wide open. Rh has been around 45% lately so I haven't messed with it. I figure stable is better than large swings.

Genitcs - CRAP SHOOT. I'm trying out different breeders and narrowing it down. I found a few good ones. The new plants are growing and well structured. The plants are also uniform in size and that's a big deal to me. I only have so much room. I don't need plants that turn into vines and grow six feet tall up into my lights, when the breeder says that the variety only grows to 35 to 40 inches tall.

I clean the whole room weekly and check every plants for problems every day. Spills are cleaned up immediately. I keep a wet shop vac handy just in case of an overflow/flood. Some fly paper to monitor for gnats and such. Better record keeping on clipboards in the room. A Journal too.
If you don't have them, get a good chemical FIRE EXTIGUISHER and SMOKE ALARMS in the grow room.
You don't want to call 911. Also, Your, (or your landlords) homeowners' insurance will not pay you a cent if you burn your house down doing something that is against the law in your state. You'll probably get sued.
 

Django66

Well-Known Member
There is also a 2x4 tent for newborn and small seedlings.
Training Auto flowers is a must I found out. Just when to start LST was trial and error. This is what has been working the best for me. I wait until the plant is in flower and is starting to stretch. I trim and tie down the branches enough to let light in and really spread out the plant. Now it's strength training time. As they try to grow, I tighten the lines. Keep an eye on the base of the branch as you pull it down. It should almost break. The plant heals fast. I topped one by accident with incredible results. I topped one on purpose with disastrous results. Here is a picture of one that I topped when it was a few weeks into flowering. I broke the top when I was moving it. Almost 5 oz dried from a short stubby auto.20230127_163814.jpg20230127_163814.jpg
 
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