hempy collective re-vised

Hey yall,
Does anyone currently add the bushdoctor microbrew to a hempy bucket set-up? thinking about doing this for a combined LED-CFL closet hempy with the ff trio (grow big, big bloom, tiger bloom) but I don't know if the microorganisms would be problematic for that 2" res. sitting in 80 degree temps...but then I guess if you're watering often enough to be exchanging that res water and oxygenating I don't know if problems would have a chance to grow... Is it clear how noobie i am yet?...I also have questions about trace minerals and the need for cal-mag for ro h20 in hempies but i'm still searching the forums for those answers if anyone wants to help me out... thanks everyone and rock on hempy collective re-vised

-sub'd

I haven't used any of those in my hempys. I know that the hempy method allows for all kinds of experimenting and I have found it to be very forgiving. Rock on with your hempy setup!

Little Tommy said:

I haven't used any of those in my hempys. I know that the hempy method allows for all kinds of experimenting and I have found it to be very forgiving. Rock on with your hempy setup!

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Thanks for the encouragement Little Tommy, I think I'll do just that!

Hey everybody, I'm pretty new here still though i've been cruising the forums picking up gems of knowledge all over the place; thanks for all the help so far!
My first attempt at this gardening things went awry when some silica gel that had cobalt II in it got into my soil damning my girls of bagseed progeny. That was done in a ffof stocked DIY earthbox (pics forthcoming by request). This time around i'm going hempy with the traditional 3:1 perlite:vermiculite blend. Here's the grow specs (pics below):

Closet Tent Grow, 1 Room, 1 straight cycle.
Size: 2'x3'x62"
Lights: CFL: 2x105w(1 6500K, 1 2700K), 2x65w (ibid.), 4x42w 2700K, 2x26w 6500K
LED: 2xUFO TriBand 90w
Ventilation: 1large vortex fan forcing air from closet floor into tent, 1 4"inline inductor fan (80cfm) exhaust from top of tent, 1 6" clip fan for air movement in tent. (1 additional 10" box fan if needed)
H20: All water is RO; even the water i clean with; and the pH is balanced!
Nutrients: FF Nutrient package (Grow Big, Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom) with microbe brew added

Seeds: Feminised white rhino from nirvana

Here's the plan:
I'm planning on following a phellow physician with my seed starting, with my own twist of course. A certain DocBud inspired this germing method where you use a plastic or styrofoam cup and make a mini hempy that substitutes the vermiculite for ffof. The way he did it was to have the bottom half layer of his mini hemp be pure perlite, then the next half was a 50-50 perlite, ffof blend, the top quarter to half inch was straight fox farm soil. I'm going to follow this set up but I diverge quickly: I will use the mini hempy with the layers as the good doc did but I will be sprouting only one seed using the coffee-filter/paper towel method. I will soak the seed a bit and place it in a damp coffee filter; put the coffee filter on a plate and invert a cup on top of the plate to seal the coffee filter in--I don't want any light in or to let any moisture out. This goes in the dark closet for a day or two until she cracks then its 1/4" under the moist soil and under the cfls. she will veg until she is big enough to give 4 clones. she will then be cloned and transplanted into a larger hempy bucket made of a 14 gallon rubbermade. the clones will go into jiffy pellets that will be planted in four places around the central mother in the same 14 gallon rubbermade. The clones will then be covered with 3L bottles cut off on one end to create a more humid environment for them, while allowing the donning mother to heal from the shock of cloning and transplanting. They will all veg together for 10-20 days then into flower, all together. My question here is whether i should be thinking about building reflectors for these cfls or whether my arrangement works fine without. We'll see how it goes!

Also, the grow is poised to start closer to the new year so thats when the journal will begin if anyone is interested in coming along for the journey!

Hey everyone, i've started a journal I'm gonna be updating weekly for the grow that i mentioned last month (above)..the plans changed a bit and i ran into some temp/humidity issues right off the bat but everything is settling down.... I could really use some hempy folks for some help and anyone interested in tracking a white rhino (nirvana) grow in hempys I'd love to have you along....here's the link https://www.rollitup.org/blogs/blog6349-new-cfl-led-hempy-ghetto.html hope some people stop by and check out a noob grow! all the best,
and always,
Be easy
-Dr.J

do u guys use molasses with these? what about mycorrhizae? any preferences and why?

thx...

I've been using the ff bushdoctor microbe brew (so mycorrhizae) but this is my first hempy go-round so i'll let you know how it goes...my white rhino girls seem to be enjoying the microbe hoard though!
be easy

Dr.J20 said:

I've been using the ff bushdoctor microbe brew (so mycorrhizae) but this is my first hempy go-round so i'll let you know how it goes...my white rhino girls seem to be enjoying the microbe hoard though!
be easy

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Hey J20....yeah lemme know how things go. I"m looking at this http://www.bioag.com/oregonorderpage.html
for myco as suggested by Matt Rize on this forum.....i'm doing veganics/organics and need to step up my game
I'm also getting ready to transplant and Matt sugested this is a perfect time to use myco [not that it shouldn't be used
before or after...]

The molasses can do nasty things to the perlite. I tried it a couple times and then reconsidered as I recycle my perlite mix and the molasses got a bit sticky and stinky.

Little Tommy said:

I have grown hempy in those 2 lb plastic coffee containers at 3 foot level. Perfect size and worked great!

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I used the 3 pound(48oz) folger cans and they worked great.

I have a few questions when it comes to running these mini-hempy. Is it critical to water from the top, in one spot on the edge or spread out over the entire surface?

The reason I ask this is because I have been thinking about automation as I am out of town often. My idea is as follows:

3x3 or any size flood table
MiniHempy buckets(folger cans) with holes for res
Overflow set to a few mm's above drain holes

With the right amount of perlite to vermiculite mix, the table would flood once every day or two for a few minutes, just enough to load the res of the hempy and then drain back to your small nuts res.

What do you guys think of this as far as automation? I guess drippers could be used but I'm not a fan of spaghetti lines and tubing everywhere. With the above mentioned method, it seems a small 5 gallon res would be able to hold me over while I'm gone for a week. The only issue i can see from this would be that it is no longer drain to waste as the nutes in the res would mingle with what is left in the bottom of the hempy res and could possibly cause EC/pH fluctuations.

Thoughts?

With my two liter and 1 gallon hempys on drip irrigation, a single half gallon per hour dripper per pot was enough to wet the entire media through wicking action.

Ebb and Flow is a recirculating system. But I setup my drip irrigation as a Non-recirculating system. Pump directly to each hempy once a day with minimal runoff.

The rez is filled with fresh nutes when it gets empty. So you dont have to test it all the time. Its much more stable. No PH or PPM swings with fresh nutes. Because the plants are not constantly using up the nutrients as in an ebb and flow or similar setup. Instead the plants get a daily dose of fresh nutes exactly like hand watering.











I am a Fan of automation with hempys because it makes it so easy.



I know right, hempy is already dead nuts simple but with automation you dont even have to hand water. Just fill up the rez once a week or so.

Xare said:

With my two liter and 1 gallon hempys on drip irrigation, a single half gallon per hour dripper per pot was enough to wet the entire media through wicking action.

Ebb and Flow is a recirculating system. But I setup my drip irrigation as a Non-recirculating system. Pump directly to each hempy once a day with minimal runoff.

The rez is filled with fresh nutes when it gets empty. So you dont have to test it all the time. Its much more stable. No PH or PPM swings with fresh nutes. Because the plants are not constantly using up the nutrients as in an ebb and flow or similar setup. Instead the plants get a daily dose of fresh nutes exactly like hand watering.

I am a Fan of automation with hempys because it makes it so easy.



I know right, hempy is already dead nuts simple but with automation you dont even have to hand water. Just fill up the rez once a week or so.

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Yea man, I love your 2-liter hempy grow, I can personally say it is in my top 3. I looked into doing a top feed drip but was discouraged as I have never worked with that type of plumbing and it would be an absolute nightmare if the system would spring a leak. If you don't mind me asking, what parts does your system comprise of?

The main fittings are called perma-lock. Those are the elbows and such that connect the 1/2 inch black poly tube.

These are very solid fittings and there is no way they will ever leak.

The smaller fittings that snap in and connect to the 1/4 inch tube are more vulnerable to small leaks, if you install them wrong. Its important to use a punch tool to make the holes for the spaghetti lines. You want it to be a clean cut hole so that there is no leaks. When you push the small fitting in you want to hear and feel it snap into position. If you have clean holes there is no leaks.

I never worked with this Black PVC stuff before. But its easy to work with and is quite adaptable to any situation.

If the system leaked at all I would not be able to use it.

Xare said:

The main fittings are called perma-lock. Those are the elbows and such that connect the 1/2 inch black poly tube.

These are very solid fittings and there is no way they will ever leak.

The smaller fittings that snap in and connect to the 1/4 inch tube are more vulnerable to small leaks, if you install them wrong. Its important to use a punch tool to make the holes for the spaghetti lines. You want it to be a clean cut hole so that there is no leaks. When you push the small fitting in you want to hear and feel it snap into position. If you have clean holes there is no leaks.

I never worked with this Black PVC stuff before. But its easy to work with and is quite adaptable to any situation.

If the system leaked at all I would not be able to use it.

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I have seen stuff similar to this at Home Depot and Lowes, where did you make your purchase and what was the rough estimate on price? I have been through the Berryhilldrip.com site a few times but don't really know what I am looking at. Thanks for the help Xare!

I spent $90 for all my drip irrigation parts. - the Pump A complete parts list is over on my white poison thread.

Ordered the individual parts I needed from Drip Depot, you have to get rolls of 50 feet of tube at a time tho. And stuff like drippers and small fittings come in packs of 10.

I like the cleanable button drippers because you can unscrew them for a cleaning or to replace them. Also if one does get clogged its a fast fix. Since i started with drip irrigation I have only had two drippers clog on me.

I think the inline filter helps alot to keep the system clean and functional.

What I did was just watch the youtube video's they put out and you start to understand its just like putting together Lego's. A monkey could learn it hehe

Ive spilled more water on the floor in my grow space trying to hand water, then that thing will leak.

Xare said:

I spent $90 for all my drip irrigation parts. - the Pump A complete parts list is over on my white poison thread.

Ordered the individual parts I needed from Drip Depot, you have to get rolls of 50 feet of tube at a time tho. And stuff like drippers and small fittings come in packs of 10.

I like the cleanable button drippers because you can unscrew them for a cleaning or to replace them. Also if one does get clogged its a fast fix. Since i started with drip irrigation I have only had two drippers clog on me.

I think the inline filter helps alot to keep the system clean and functional.

What I did was just watch the youtube video's they put out and you start to understand its just like putting together Lego's. A monkey could learn it hehe

Ive spilled more water on the floor in my grow space trying to hand water, then that thing will leak.

Click to expand...

Where exactly is the placement of your inline filter? I didn't see it in the pictures so I will assume it is in the res. Did you go WaterPump>1/2tube>perma-loc Male Hose Adapter>Filter>perma-loc female hose adapter>1/2tube out of the res? Bout to order this stuff up and want to be sure I don't have to make a second order.

Also, I have EcoPlus 264 and 396, I doubt either of these will put out over 3psi, so that puts me not using the pressure compensating drippers. Do you think I will still get a uniform coverage out of about 6 drippers with a 264 or 396 ecoplus?

This is a pic of the in-line filter attached to the pump:

What you have is a short piece of 1/2 inch tube maybe 4 or 5 inches long connected to the pump on one end and the other end has the Male threaded permaloc - that screws onto one end of the filter - then you screw the female threaded permaloc onto the other end of the filter and that permaloc is connected to 1/2 tube going to the plants.



So yea, you have the right understanding of it.


Pressure Compensating drippers are for higher pressure systems and outdoor gravity fed situations. ( they will not flow until a certain pressure is reached over 10 psi i think )

Stick to the regular type for indoor and low to med drip irrigation setups.

More pressure is better then rate of flow of the pump. Mine is 5.3 and its doing like 30 drippers so 3 PSI should run 6 ok.

The design of your tube layout is probably the most important factor to even watering. You want it to be equal.

One last thing Xare, does the inline filter use 3/4" hose threads or 1/2" hose threads? I am going to get an adapter that screws into my pump via 3/4" pipe threads and then converts to either 1/2" or 3/4" hose threads depending on what the filter is.

The filter is GHT.

GHT stands for Garden Hose Threaded. The standard for that is 3/4 inch

I just remembered I bought a $20 dollar tub of greencure at the same time I got my drip irrigation parts. So I really only spend about $70 on all the parts for my drip rig.

Here is another tip: After you punch a hole in the 1/2 inch black poly with the punch tool for the 1/4 inch lines you have to reset the punch tool. Take a toothpick and push out the little piece of plastic that you cut and is now stuck in the tool. Do this each time you punch a hole with the tool, it helps to make sure the cuts are clean and thus no leaks.