twateater1020
Active Member
i bought a 1996 e150 with a v 8 engine keeps getting hot took out the thermostate no help. how to clean out water passages any ideas?
help with a ford engine
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twateater1020
Active Member
how can i also put this on the diy forum.one hand pecking.
ultraviolet pirate
Well-Known Member
radiator flush
twateater1020
Active Member
no nothing in oil either changed cap top hose is a little soft will try it tomorow water circulating
ScoobyDoobyDoo
Well-Known Member
it's the flux capacitor. it's probably not getting the 1.21 gigawatts it needs.
twateater1020
Active Member
getting hot stop gurgles and steams let cool till no pressure 8 oz h20 tops it off sometimes no prob for 30 mls smtimes 5?
polyarcturus
Well-Known Member
lolyou guys are funny i will tell you what is most likely wrong, get down underneath and look for the water pump reach up behind the pulley there should be a hole, its called a weep hole. if its leaking or wet you probably nee to change the pump. you could try a radiator flush first tho. the hit with metal crystals in it(cant think of the name) is the best stuff to put in after a flush. and seal up any repairs. if you do a flush properly with water and maybe an additive that should get rid of all the gunk that could be in there. remember to adjust the thermostat when you do the flush or you will have to do the flush again when your heat doesn't work right.
twateater1020
Active Member
no stat fast on race day
ScoobyDoobyDoo
Well-Known Member
i am a certified mechanic and i'm telling you it's the flux capacitor man. she needs more juice. i have a design for a bio fuel that will power her. requires a food processor though. let me know.
twateater1020
Active Member
scooby doo nobody needs you!!!!!!!!!! here lol.
Chiggachamp
Active Member
Lol i never use those cheap fixs.. Its like the lucas they sell to stop tranny and oil leaks..
I work in a autoshop. A good honest shop. And i. Hate when people wanna take the cheap way on fixing there car. I kno it can be exspensive but its worth it if u have a good mech.
I hate when people bring in theyre cars after they had a tweaker work on it. Makesmy jobtwice as hard
Ford fucked on a raw deal
Im leaning torwards head gaskat tho.
I work in a autoshop. A good honest shop. And i. Hate when people wanna take the cheap way on fixing there car. I kno it can be exspensive but its worth it if u have a good mech.
I hate when people bring in theyre cars after they had a tweaker work on it. Makesmy jobtwice as hard
Ford fucked on a raw deal
Im leaning torwards head gaskat tho.
Metasynth
Well-Known Member
Metasynth
Well-Known Member
Manual say, car posessed by Automobile Demon. Refer to sushi take out menu for further instructions.
A few questions:
1. Does it only overheat while sitting/going at lower speeds (like stop/go driving or idling) or is it all the time highway or city driving?
2. Have you noticed any puddles/drips after parking it?
Here's pretty much everything that can cause an overheat:
More common:
1. Low/no coolant (usually due to a leak)
2. Thermostat stuck shut (not allowing coolant to circulate through engine and remove heat)
3. Radiator clogged (coolant can't have heat removed if it can't flow through the radiator)
4. Weak/leaking water pump (yes, look at the bottom and see if you see coolant coming out of the weep hole)
5. Worn mechanical fan clutch (I'd suspect this if it was only happening at idle or city speeds)
4. Heater Core is leaking (looks like a mini radiator, located behind dash at passenger's feet usually)
Less common:
1. Head gasket needs to be replaced (expensive fix)
2. Cracked engine head (expensive fix)
3. Air bubble trapped in cooling system
4. Temperature sensor/temperature gauge problem (if it's physically overheating, these are probably not the issue)
***Safety issue: NEVER open the radiator cap if there is pressure (hose feels hard and/or hot) in the upper radiator hose (one coming off the top of the radiator). If you open the radiator cap, you risk hot coolant spraying out and burning you
What to do:
1. Do a visual inspection all around radiator/water pump/hoses/overflow tank/feel the carpet at the passenger side feet area inside cab
2. Leak test--Pressure test the system (requires a special tool, but you'll find that leak w/this and can probably find the pressure kit at most auto parts stores--make sure the kit has a cap that fits your radiator) If you do this look at the water pump weep hole, look at the bottom of the radiator, look where hoses clamp on, look for pin holes in hoses, and look inside the truck where the passenger's feet goes (the heater core could be leaking and this usually makes the carpet wet on the passenger foot area and/or you get a "mist" blowing onto the inside of your windshield when it's set on defrost)
3. Thermostat check--Make sure your coolant level is full, truck is cold and start truck, turn on the heater, place your hand on the top radiator hose (when it first starts, it should be cool and you can squeeze it to collapse). Keep your hand on that hose and have someone raise RPM's (rev it up a little to allow it to start getting hot) and watch your temp gauge. When the thermostat opens you should feel that top hose get hot and eventually pressure will build up and you won't be able to squeeze it. Do this while watching your temp gauge. If it overheats and that hose never gets hot or pressurized, it's your thermostat.
4. Fan Clutch Test: WITH ENGINE OFF--just spin the radiator fan by hand. If it's super easy to spin and "free wheeling" as if there's zero resistance, you need a new fan clutch. If you spin it and it stops pretty quickly due to resistance, it's probably fine.
W/the age of the truck, I'm betting it's just a leak or a clogged radiator. My advice is if you're going to "open the system" to replace one thing, go ahead and replace the following at the same time:
Upper and lower radiator hoses
thermostat (usually very easy job, should be where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine...the housing will be a half dome)
Good luck and let us know what you find!
1. Does it only overheat while sitting/going at lower speeds (like stop/go driving or idling) or is it all the time highway or city driving?
2. Have you noticed any puddles/drips after parking it?
Here's pretty much everything that can cause an overheat:
More common:
1. Low/no coolant (usually due to a leak)
2. Thermostat stuck shut (not allowing coolant to circulate through engine and remove heat)
3. Radiator clogged (coolant can't have heat removed if it can't flow through the radiator)
4. Weak/leaking water pump (yes, look at the bottom and see if you see coolant coming out of the weep hole)
5. Worn mechanical fan clutch (I'd suspect this if it was only happening at idle or city speeds)
4. Heater Core is leaking (looks like a mini radiator, located behind dash at passenger's feet usually)
Less common:
1. Head gasket needs to be replaced (expensive fix)
2. Cracked engine head (expensive fix)
3. Air bubble trapped in cooling system
4. Temperature sensor/temperature gauge problem (if it's physically overheating, these are probably not the issue)
***Safety issue: NEVER open the radiator cap if there is pressure (hose feels hard and/or hot) in the upper radiator hose (one coming off the top of the radiator). If you open the radiator cap, you risk hot coolant spraying out and burning you
What to do:
1. Do a visual inspection all around radiator/water pump/hoses/overflow tank/feel the carpet at the passenger side feet area inside cab
2. Leak test--Pressure test the system (requires a special tool, but you'll find that leak w/this and can probably find the pressure kit at most auto parts stores--make sure the kit has a cap that fits your radiator) If you do this look at the water pump weep hole, look at the bottom of the radiator, look where hoses clamp on, look for pin holes in hoses, and look inside the truck where the passenger's feet goes (the heater core could be leaking and this usually makes the carpet wet on the passenger foot area and/or you get a "mist" blowing onto the inside of your windshield when it's set on defrost)
3. Thermostat check--Make sure your coolant level is full, truck is cold and start truck, turn on the heater, place your hand on the top radiator hose (when it first starts, it should be cool and you can squeeze it to collapse). Keep your hand on that hose and have someone raise RPM's (rev it up a little to allow it to start getting hot) and watch your temp gauge. When the thermostat opens you should feel that top hose get hot and eventually pressure will build up and you won't be able to squeeze it. Do this while watching your temp gauge. If it overheats and that hose never gets hot or pressurized, it's your thermostat.
4. Fan Clutch Test: WITH ENGINE OFF--just spin the radiator fan by hand. If it's super easy to spin and "free wheeling" as if there's zero resistance, you need a new fan clutch. If you spin it and it stops pretty quickly due to resistance, it's probably fine.
W/the age of the truck, I'm betting it's just a leak or a clogged radiator. My advice is if you're going to "open the system" to replace one thing, go ahead and replace the following at the same time:
Upper and lower radiator hoses
thermostat (usually very easy job, should be where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine...the housing will be a half dome)
Good luck and let us know what you find!
dirtsurfr
Well-Known Member
If you don't have a Thermostat in the engine it will over heat put 1 in and make sure its facing the right way.
If theres fluid coming out from behind the fan you need a new pump.
If after the motor is warmed up and running you should see the water circulating, if
you do then you probly don't need to flush.
Stay away from cheep and easy fixes, just because you buy it don't mean it works like they say.
If theres fluid coming out from behind the fan you need a new pump.
If after the motor is warmed up and running you should see the water circulating, if
you do then you probly don't need to flush.
Stay away from cheep and easy fixes, just because you buy it don't mean it works like they say.