Help, Roots not forming.... PICS

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weeds247

Well-Known Member
Items that have been used:

American Agritech Clone Machine 25
Clonex Rooting Gel
Botanicare Power Clone Solution



I took cuttings on the 8th. I carefully stripped away some of the skin where the rooting agent was going to be applied to. I mixed the solution with 2.5 gallons of water PH'd to about 5.0


Here are the pics. There are no roots at all, and today they are starting to go limp. Should I try to reapply the rooting agent?
 

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snutter

snutter

Well-Known Member
Just give them some more time buddy!!! It can take a while for the roots to form. I don't get roots for 2 weeks when I clone. And don't worry about them getting a little limp, that happens. As long as they don't turn yellow, brown, or die, they're more than likely doing just fine... And definitely do NOT pull them out and try to re-apply more rooting compound. That will cause more problems than it will solve. Just let them continue to do their thing. They look fine and I believe they will be fine. I hope this helps. Please keep us updated on this thread..
 
snutter

snutter

Well-Known Member
Is your rooting compound liquid, powder, or gel? For the system you have, I believe that gel works the best.
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
Humic acids help. Fulmic acids particularly. Basically just soak some peat moss in water and add the brown water after running it through a coffee filter. Adjust pH upward if needed to a pH around 5.6 I never clone at any lower pH than 5.5 to 5.6

Fulvic acid readily complexes with minerals and metals making them available to plant and
easily absorbable through cell walls. (1)

Fulvic acid can often transport many times its weight in dissolved minerals and elements. (2)

Fulvic acid has close association with enzymes.(3) It increases activity of enzymes, and especially influences respiratory catalysts. Fulvic acids increase the activity of several enzymes including alkaline phosphates, transaminase, and invertase.

Fulvic acid metal organic complexes are of a low molecular weight, (4) and because of this they are also of low molecular size, and are capable of a high degree of penetration into cells. Fulvic acid complexes and chelates are able to readily pass through semi-permeable membranes such as cell walls. Yet it is important to note that it has also been determined that fulvic acids not only have the ability to transport nutrients through cell membranes, they also have the ability to sensitize cell membranes and various physiological functions as well. (5)

Fulvic acid appears to cause the genetic mechanism of plants to function at a higher level. It has been concluded that any means by which plant cells are exposed to fulvic acid can improve growth.( 6)

References


1. Williams, S. T. (1963). Are antibiotics produced in soil? Pedobiologia, 23, 427-435.

2. Many times its weight- Deb, B. C. (1949). The movement and precipitation of iron oxides in podzol soils. Journal of Soil Science, 1, 112-122.

3. Fulvic and enzymes – Pardue, H.L, Townshend, A., Clere, J.T., VanderLinden (Eds.), (1990, May 1). Analytica chimica Acta, Special Issue, Humic and Fulvic compounds, 232 (1), 1-235.
(Amsterdam, Netherlands: Elsevier Science Publishers)

4. low molecular weight, Aiken, G.R., McKnight, D.M., & VacCarthy, P.1985). Humic substances of soil, sediment and water, New York: Wiley-Interscience.

5. Sensitize cell membranes- Rashid, M.A. (1985). Geochemistry of Marine Humic Substances. New York: Spriner-Verlag.

6. Genetic and growth-Jackson, William R. (1993). Humic, Fulvic and Microbial Balance: Organic Soil Conditioning, 538. Evergreen, Colorado: Jackson Research Center
 
repvip

repvip

Well-Known Member
The simplest answer is: Too Early. It's barely been a week. Wait at least two.

If they are going limp, they might have too much surface area. You can cut the lower fan leaves in half. This reduces the transpiration load on the plant, while keeping part of the leaf to draw energy from.

Occasionally I get a clone or two that droops, and almost always the case is too many leaves, or too big of leaves. Cutting or removing some usually perks them back up in a day or two.


Just use clean water and a sterile blade bro.
Plants already have the hormones they need to grow roots.

A few years ago I tried the gels and shit. Olivia's, Clonex. It ends up being a reservoir for bacteria unless you are very careful. i.e. if you double dip (original container), eventually the gel will go bad, to the point where each clone you dip is infected. I have 100% success with tap water, and a clean blade with isopropanol. It usually takes about 10-12 days for my strain to pop roots. fyi pH is 5.8.. I don't let it go lower than ~5.5 or higher than ~6.25 seems to be a nice range, easy to judge.
 
D

dbo24242

New Member
weeds247 said:
Items that have been used:

American Agritech Clone Machine 25
Clonex Rooting Gel
Botanicare Power Clone Solution



I took cuttings on the 8th. I carefully stripped away some of the skin where the rooting agent was going to be applied to. I mixed the solution with 2.5 gallons of water PH'd to about 5.0


Here are the pics. There are no roots at all, and today they are starting to go limp. Should I try to reapply the rooting agent?
Click to expand...
if they're gonna work they need time. sit back, relax, check back in a week. if they all wilt they need humidity. that cloner has a humidity dome designed for it. buy it. use it. it will increase rooting time to 1/2 or 1/3 what it will be.
 
OregonMeds

OregonMeds

Well-Known Member
You're just impatient that's all that's really wrong.

But just for the record low ambient temperatures make it take longer also. I have some in a bubble cloner now that have taken extra long this time just because they're getting a little colder than I prefer especially at night.
 
W

weeds247

Well-Known Member
Understood... Checked today and I see roots forming. Curious though all the Chocolope have shown roots but none of my Brainstorm. I guess it must be on its own cycle
 
S

strain stalker

New Member
repvip said:
The simplest answer is: Too Early. It's barely been a week. Wait at least two.

If they are going limp, they might have too much surface area. You can cut the lower fan leaves in half. This reduces the transpiration load on the plant, while keeping part of the leaf to draw energy from.

Occasionally I get a clone or two that droops, and almost always the case is too many leaves, or too big of leaves. Cutting or removing some usually perks them back up in a day or two.


Just use clean water and a sterile blade bro.
Plants already have the hormones they need to grow roots.

A few years ago I tried the gels and shit. Olivia's, Clonex. It ends up being a reservoir for bacteria unless you are very careful. i.e. if you double dip (original container), eventually the gel will go bad, to the point where each clone you dip is infected. I have 100% success with tap water, and a clean blade with isopropanol. It usually takes about 10-12 days for my strain to pop roots. fyi pH is 5.8.. I don't let it go lower than ~5.5 or higher than ~6.25 seems to be a nice range, easy to judge.
Click to expand...
...very true! I was pissed when I realized that I did not need to use rooting gel after an experiment I tried (100% success with tap water pH @ 6.0). I been getting pumped full of shit by my hydro store (s)...BASTARDS! LOL
 
repvip

repvip

Well-Known Member
strain stalker said:
...very true! I was pissed when I realized that I did not need to use rooting gel after an experiment I tried (100% success with tap water pH @ 6.0). I been getting pumped full of shit by my hydro store (s)...BASTARDS! LOL
Click to expand...
hah! That's good shit! Same story over here!

BTW I play it safe and empty/refill the clone chambers every 7 days with tap water that has sat overnight, to let chlorine escape. Some people go a month. I had some funk grow once at a 3 week interval, but with 1 week.. no prob whatsoever

ps I'm biased against cloning gel since mine went bad that one time, every single clone had rotted exactly where it was dipped.
 
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