help curing

herd lots of ways to cure .on 2nd grow can somone plz give me info on best way to cure my weed

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wee_m

Well-Known Member
herd lots of ways to cure .on 2nd grow can somone plz give me info on best way to cure my weed
 

MoodyShoes

Well-Known Member
Nope, they can't, because what is best way for one doesn't work for all

You need to "find" what works best for you through trial and error
I'm sorry but that is utter nonsense.

Here's a guide to the drying process. Now, i know you're asking about curing, but a good cure comes after a good drying process. that's the key.

Drying Process.png


Get some large airtight preserving jars with the lever close lids from Ikea. They're cheaper than the Kilner ones. Also, get some cheap hygrometers that fit inside jars.

0131001_PE285442_S5.JPG

hygrometer309635.jpg

Try to get the RH inside the jars to around 60%.

Now, this can be done by various methods, but personally (and there are varying opinions on this) i use 8g Boveda 62 packs at a ratio of one pack per half ounce of material.

41npI26R2pL._SY300_.jpg

Place half ounce in the jar, then a boveda pack, then another half....and so on.

Leave them alone to balance out over 48 hours, only opening the jars once every 24 hours.

After 48 hours, empty the jars, and simply do the same process again, half ounce, boveda etc etc.

Leave them again for 72 hours.

Now your RH should be at about 62%. If not, just leave the boveda packs in a bit longer until you achieve 62% RH.

At this stage, i remove the Boveda packs and store them away. Some people say they can remove taste from the buds over long periods of time so why take the risk? Leave the hygrometers in the jars to monitor the RH.

After 6 weeks you should have fully cured, awesome buds.
 
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RM3

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry but that is utter nonsense.

Here's a guide to the drying process. Now, i know you're asking about curing, but a good cure comes after a good drying process. that's the key.

View attachment 3663866


Get some large airtight preserving jars with the lever close lids from Ikea. They're cheaper than the Kilner ones. Also, get some cheap hygrometers that fit inside jars.

View attachment 3663867

View attachment 3663868

Try to get the RH inside the jars to around 60%.

Now, this can be done by various methods, but personally (and there are varying opinuions on this) i use Boveda 62 packs at a ratio of one pack per half ounce of material.

Place half ounce in the jar, then a boveda pack, then another half....and so on.

Leave them alone to balance out over 48 hours, only opening the jars once every 24 hours.

After 48 hours, empty the jars, and simply do the same process again, half ounce, boveda etc etc.

Leave them again for 72 hours.

Now your RH should be at about 62%.

At this stage, i remove the Boveda packs and store them away. Some people say they can remove taste from the buds over long periods of time so why take the risk? Leave the hygrometers in the jars to monitor the RH.

After 6 weeks you should have fully cured, awesome buds.
I'm sorry but that is utter nonsense.
 

MoodyShoes

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry but that is utter nonsense.
Of course it is. Better using trial and error huh?

iWKad22.jpg

It's no wonder newbies get confused on these forums with ridiculous advice like that.

Take it or leave it, but this method works. Regardless of what some people may think, growing and curing cannabis is not difficult, you just need to follow simple processes to the letter.

Good luck OP and if you need any further information let me know. :)
 

Trich_holmes

Well-Known Member
A good piece of advise I've learned the hard way is that depending on your humidity level you may want to turn off any fans or A/C as you can dry out in 2 days and end up with grassy tasting chlorophyll herbs. Yuck!
 

RM3

Well-Known Member
Of course it is. Better using trial and error huh?
Tis how most folks learn 8)

Your posted method has to many etched in stone statements that may not apply at all ?

Like put em in the tent and turn everything off ? or even chop after dark period is over, I always chop during lights on because I know for a fact that all the light degrades stuff is nonsense, yes I've tested it, but that's irrelevant. but yes, nonsense none the less.

Then there is remove all the fans, there are instances where leaving them on is very beneficial. Removing them is mostly touted by lazy folks that don't like trimmin em once dry

The whole don't check em for 72 hours is a huge bit of nonsense

drying till the stems snap has always been wrong and if kept in 60+ rh they most likely never would lol

The 62% bovida's is a tad high 57 would be better but they don't make those

And please let's not forget that the temps and humidity of different geographical areas is different ???

Like I said what works for one will not work for every one

Have a nice day
 

SamsonsRiddle

Well-Known Member
Tis how most folks learn 8)

Your posted method has to many etched in stone statements that may not apply at all ?

Like put em in the tent and turn everything off ? or even chop after dark period is over, I always chop during lights on because I know for a fact that all the light degrades stuff is nonsense, yes I've tested it, but that's irrelevant. but yes, nonsense none the less.

Then there is remove all the fans, there are instances where leaving them on is very beneficial. Removing them is mostly touted by lazy folks that don't like trimmin em once dry

The whole don't check em for 72 hours is a huge bit of nonsense

drying till the stems snap has always been wrong and if kept in 60+ rh they most likely never would lol

The 62% bovida's is a tad high 57 would be better but they don't make those

And please let's not forget that the temps and humidity of different geographical areas is different ???

Like I said what works for one will not work for every one

Have a nice day
I totally agree with the RH you put here, I shoot for 59 once in the zone because mold grows at 60% and above, especially in lower temperatures.

The whole point is to get to the point where you can have it in a jar at 55-59% SLOWLY, while still giving your "cutting" plenty of air during the whole process of getting there.
 

swazifarmer

Well-Known Member
Ive always wanted to cure with citrus fruit peels but never ever got it to work IMO it's a waste of bud as usually bud mold kicks in after 6/7 hours so unless you wanna be replacing peels every 7 hours don't do it BUT like RM3 said it what works for me might not work for you.

I've only had bud mold because of orange peels and that hurts my pride.
 

MoodyShoes

Well-Known Member
Tis how most folks learn 8)

Your posted method has to many etched in stone statements that may not apply at all ?

Like put em in the tent and turn everything off ? or even chop after dark period is over, I always chop during lights on because I know for a fact that all the light degrades stuff is nonsense, yes I've tested it, but that's irrelevant. but yes, nonsense none the less.

Then there is remove all the fans, there are instances where leaving them on is very beneficial. Removing them is mostly touted by lazy folks that don't like trimmin em once dry

The whole don't check em for 72 hours is a huge bit of nonsense

drying till the stems snap has always been wrong and if kept in 60+ rh they most likely never would lol

The 62% bovida's is a tad high 57 would be better but they don't make those

And please let's not forget that the temps and humidity of different geographical areas is different ???

Like I said what works for one will not work for every one

Have a nice day
So that's what you come back with?

It's the crazy thing about the internet isn't it? Someone makes a comment stating "use trail and error" and another makes a thoroughly detailed explanation of the drying and curing process, and guess who the average Jo public thinks has a better point?

"Tweaking" is of course necessary, 72 hours with the tent closed will do no harm whatsoever, and the OP lives in Scotland, as do i, hence the Scottish flag in his avatar. Once the jars are at 62% the RH will only go one way...down, and the difference between 62% and 57% is hardly worth focussing on unless your a muppet that belives 2% over 60% is going to mean mould.

I have a friend who repeatedly asks me why i bother posting on these forums. There is very little actual knowledge here, it seems to serve only as a place to inflate peoples egos.

Regardless of what growers may think, this hobby is as easy as riding a bike. It's not an achievement to grow a plant that grows naturally if you just throw a seed in a bit of dirt. And this becomes the problem....that everyone thinks they have their own special method that they've worked on for years because they want to overcomplicate a simple process and try to make out they are somehow a really talented person.

Seriously, it's a weed.....Get a job.

There are simple, tried and tested methods for making sure cannabis is dried and cured properly, a long dry and a regulated RH during curing are the bottom line.

Now if you really think that the process i have laid out doesn't work, that's fine, i couldn't care less, but whos information do you think is more valuable to the original question for a newbie?

Honestly, i wonder why i bother with these forums sometimes. It's like playing a game of chess with a pigeon.....utterly fruitless.
 
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RM3

Well-Known Member
So that's what you come back with?

It's the crazy thing about the internet isn't it? Someone makes a comment stating "use trail and error" and another makes a thoroughly detailed explanation of the drying and curing process, and guess who the average Jo public thinks has a better point?

"Tweaking" is of course necessary, 72 hours with the tent closed will do no harm whatsoever, and the OP lives in Scotland, as do i, hence the Scottish flag in his avatar. Once the jars are at 62% the RH will only go one way...down, and the difference between 62% and 57% is hardly worth focussing on unless your a muppet that belives 2% over 60% is going to mean mould.

I have a friend who repeatedly asks me why i bother posting on these forums. There is very little actual knowledge here, it seems to serve only as a place to inflate peoples egos.

Regardless of what growers may think, this hobby is as easy as riding a bike. It's not an achievement to grow a plant that grows naturally if you just throw a seed in a bit of dirt. And this becomes the problem....that everyone thinks they have their own special method that they've worked on for years because they want to overcomplicate a simple process and try to make out they are somehow a really talented person.

Seriously, it's a weed.....Get a job.

There are simple, tried and tested methods for making sure cannabis is dried and cured properly, a long dry and a regulated RH during curing are the bottom line.

Now if you really think that the process i have laid out doesn't work, that's fine, i couldn't care less, but whos information do you think is more valuable to the original question for a newbie?

Honestly, i wonder why i bother with these forums sometimes. It's like playing a game of chess with a pigeon.....utterly fruitless.
I post on these forums because I love the plant and because there is so much bad info, mythical nonsense and bro science 8)

I've got several teaching threads here for new growers I simply love spreading the truth

though I do admit it's like trying to fight a tornado with a nerf gun
 

swazifarmer

Well-Known Member
Moody Shoes, yes you stated the fundamentals that's pretty easy to follow but are we here to copy and paste and not challenge and question metods and techniques?

I mentioned curing with fruit peel that's another technique of curing and the durations are up for debate, that is a personally choice not a set standard.
 
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Trich_holmes

Well-Known Member
I'll just say I've never had to use packs, and it certainly doesn't take 10-14 days to dry proper. Even at 60 RH they will be bone dry and crumbling in 7-10 days. Certainly don't want someone over drying before it hits he jars, as much as you don't want someone quick drying and trapping chlorophyll. Also the 72 hour dark is rubbish. I'd also advise trimming before hanging as when sugar leaf dries is sticks to the buds and causes more damage when removing them. See what works for one doesn't work for all...that list is non sense!! You are right and that it's not a science, and it is a weed and after you work with it for a while you realize it's not dainty and you can do just about anything you want to it. People first starting out very cautious as we probably all were because we didn't know any better. The one thing you've got completely twisted is the fact that there is plenty of knowledge in the forums. As a matter of fact I could pick out 10 users off the top of my head that have more botanical and microbial knowledge Then everyone in this thread put together. Just because you may not agree with another user and have a pissing match doesn't mean that the forums are irrelevant. I mean you're here aren't you? I know for myself and probably a majority of the users if it wasn't for these forums, we all be buying our weed from the shit bag down the street at a 300x mark up. Let's all just agree to disagree you and give our individual input and let the OP decide which route to take...:bigjoint:
 

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
So that's what you come back with?

It's the crazy thing about the internet isn't it? Someone makes a comment stating "use trail and error" and another makes a thoroughly detailed explanation of the drying and curing process, and guess who the average Jo public thinks has a better point?

"Tweaking" is of course necessary, 72 hours with the tent closed will do no harm whatsoever, and the OP lives in Scotland, as do i, hence the Scottish flag in his avatar. Once the jars are at 62% the RH will only go one way...down, and the difference between 62% and 57% is hardly worth focussing on unless your a muppet that belives 2% over 60% is going to mean mould.

I have a friend who repeatedly asks me why i bother posting on these forums. There is very little actual knowledge here, it seems to serve only as a place to inflate peoples egos.

Regardless of what growers may think, this hobby is as easy as riding a bike. It's not an achievement to grow a plant that grows naturally if you just throw a seed in a bit of dirt. And this becomes the problem....that everyone thinks they have their own special method that they've worked on for years because they want to overcomplicate a simple process and try to make out they are somehow a really talented person.

Seriously, it's a weed.....Get a job.

There are simple, tried and tested methods for making sure cannabis is dried and cured properly, a long dry and a regulated RH during curing are the bottom line.

Now if you really think that the process i have laid out doesn't work, that's fine, i couldn't care less, but whos information do you think is more valuable to the original question for a newbie?

Honestly, i wonder why i bother with these forums sometimes. It's like playing a game of chess with a pigeon.....utterly fruitless.
If its that easy and only a weed it wouldn't require a 20 step process to dry and cure would it? Usually its the people who start name calling and slinging insults when disagreed with are the the ones with fragile egos.
 
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