HELP! BUD GROWTH SLOWING DOWN - BODHI GRANOLA FUNK

Dr. Who said:

HERE READ this about flushing. Yes I wrote it..

The thing is, NOTHING in agriculture gets 'flushed" and that leads to little to no research in the area. You see, the thing is, the whole "idea" of "flushing is nonsense! Plants don't work that way! They do not take up nutrients or salts as most of you think of them! They do not "store" them in the sense you think of them! Not only that, but the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers! NO amount of "flushing" will "exchange" plant "stored" nutrition back "out" of the plant! Scientifically impossible by the way most of you guys understand......Ok, that's my word on "flushing". (No one listens to this in threads if they don't want to hear it or accept it.)

Now then, you propose the "FADE TO FINISH" method. Great idea in theory but, and this IS a BIG BUT! Remember when I said above that "the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers!" ? This shoots that theory in the ass right away. You see the main amount of stored nutrition is in either the roots and the rest in leaves and some in small amounts in transit in the phloam (the sap that actually moves the nutrients around the plant)......

Now when you "starve a plant" it will draw from it's self by actually breaking down the needed parts of it's self to do an "emergency" attempt to reproduce! (This can happen in certain plants even in veg! A kind of last ditch effort to continue the species.)

With that in mind you take the fact that the plant is not "moving" nutrients "out" of buds, but into them to speed growth and as fast as it can - "reproduce". This single minded process the plant now puts it's self on causes the plant to stress it's self. This self induced stress can, in many cases if done long enough, lead the plant to go bisexual, and produce "banana's" in a last ditch effort to reproduce and "carry on the line" and produce seeds...

Basically put, In reality you are moving nutrients that you're "attempting" to get rid of,,right to where your trying to remove them from! You are also stressing the plant in the way for "Herming" to actually happen easier!

I and many others that have tried to convey this actual plant science, are called everything you can think of and those 'impossible of understanding these facts", fight so hard against us that many of us have simply chosen to avoid the issue or don't fight to hard.

Anyway, there you are in as short and sweet and as simple/understandable as I can...

The thing is you have to understand Botany and Horticulture (and there are LOTS of subsections to those that are involved here) to truly put together the pieces of the puzzle to get your head wrapped around the idea that flushing and the "fade" don't work for what they are intended or alleged to actually do!

There you go Mods, nice, polite and to the point. (Sorry about the other thread Sunni)

There you go, Now have at it!
I'm stepping back to watch the circus.

Read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

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Dr. Who said:

Ca/Mg supplementing is for RO water.....

No, the KIND line is 3 bottles - period. You use differing amounts of them and only 2 at a time for each stage.

Examples of per gallon mix rates:
For heavy feeders in bloom....10 ml of each, BASE and BLOOM.
For lighter N feeders In bloom.....7.5 ml of BASE and 10 ml of BLOOM.

In Veg....I use a pre charged soil that runs plants for 30 days....In solo cups they get water. Once they go into 1 gallon pots they get 10 ml GROW and that's all...
Some heavy feeders get 2.5 to 3 ml base and 10 ml Grow.

Some strains can be Mg hungry. You have to learn to see that and add some Mg for them. I generally have no need to add Mg in bloom. (I do a supplementing of a Mg sulfate and a K sulfate to increase trich and terp production. VERY much a learned thing...application of plant science.) For now, you need to learn to dial in your strains for feeding rates...THEN once you have them down pat, and repeating quality on every run. THEN start trying specific chemical supplementation.

"Seeing" a "done" plant and I mean PROPERLY done. Is an ART that you have to learn.

Like I said. Some strains don't amber much, if at all. You need to have time under your belt to "see" done, in strains like this...
There are several ways I look for that.
Are they stacking "good" foxtails? Pretty good clue that a non ambering strain is close to or just about to finish..Daily checking for hat "finished" look...

Go 2 extra weeks and then start trying longer.....You may be surprised at how long a "true" finish takes...
Growing conditions (environment) dictate run times more then and # of breeder given days... His definition of "finished" maybe different then mine.

"I" grow for max potential of the strain. I want to grow it out to the best it's genetic traits allow. Highest THC content,,max bud size and density, etc.

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dhiz said:

The video shows it better.

http://www.veoh.com/watch/v141903996r4SMKySt

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Dr. Who said:

Yuk, I don't run "Flash player" Nor do I have it loaded on MY PC anymore...

THE fastest way to hack your PC is through all the holes in Flash Player!

This sites servers were brought down last year by a Flash Player hack.

So, tried it on my phone. All I get is a broken link...

So, what that video shows , Unless that's yours to show me. I can't comment on it. I can say that from the bulk of the "instructional" BS video's I have seen..... If it is one of those, I can't say I trust that one either.

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Dr. Who said:

Sorry I can't see it.

Still, pictures do say a thousand words....How about some of those?

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tyke1973 said:

Leave em Longer,Has for cheaper Led lights taking Longer .That is not the case with the Mars ones ,so far they have all ways finished same time frame has HPS.Looks like they have gone through some serious stretching though .The Nugs I have been getting from the Mars 300 ,have been great the Blueberry gum main cola weighed in at 6 gram under a Oz .big fat solid ass bud .Beautiful smoke too.That does look some fire though dude,have ya tried using a more Blue for veg ,like T5 .then flip over to Led .Im testing the Mars cob starting Thursday,See how that goes .

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tyke1973 said:

I don't ph ain't done for years ,but they look great I say two week max and they should be ready.The Superbright LEDs are great for vegging so are the Mars 300's.but I all ways use T5's in early veg right through to flower 18 inch ,apart from this Mars Cob test I'm doing ,that will be getting the seedlings under it ,this thur.2 Two Bloody Skunk autos.Your heads are starting to go milky ,so I'm thinking the time frame I said above.they will gain more weight in that time .

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dhiz said:

Sounds good. Thanks for the input. Should I ignore the ph runoff and do business as usual?

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Dr. Who said:

YES, and go longer is correct..

A note on those COB's
You'll see bigger bud structure from their use!

Click to expand...

Dr. Who said:

Ca/Mg supplementing is for RO water.....

No, the KIND line is 3 bottles - period. You use differing amounts of them and only 2 at a time for each stage.

Examples of per gallon mix rates:
For heavy feeders in bloom....10 ml of each, BASE and BLOOM.
For lighter N feeders In bloom.....7.5 ml of BASE and 10 ml of BLOOM.

In Veg....I use a pre charged soil that runs plants for 30 days....In solo cups they get water. Once they go into 1 gallon pots they get 10 ml GROW and that's all...
Some heavy feeders get 2.5 to 3 ml base and 10 ml Grow.

Some strains can be Mg hungry. You have to learn to see that and add some Mg for them. I generally have no need to add Mg in bloom. (I do a supplementing of a Mg sulfate and a K sulfate to increase trich and terp production. VERY much a learned thing...application of plant science.) For now, you need to learn to dial in your strains for feeding rates...THEN once you have them down pat, and repeating quality on every run. THEN start trying specific chemical supplementation.

"Seeing" a "done" plant and I mean PROPERLY done. Is an ART that you have to learn.

Like I said. Some strains don't amber much, if at all. You need to have time under your belt to "see" done, in strains like this...
There are several ways I look for that.
Are they stacking "good" foxtails? Pretty good clue that a non ambering strain is close to or just about to finish..Daily checking for hat "finished" look...

Go 2 extra weeks and then start trying longer.....You may be surprised at how long a "true" finish takes...
Growing conditions (environment) dictate run times more then and # of breeder given days... His definition of "finished" maybe different then mine.

"I" grow for max potential of the strain. I want to grow it out to the best it's genetic traits allow. Highest THC content,,max bud size and density, etc.

Click to expand...

Dr. Who said:

YES, and go longer is correct..

A note on those COB's
You'll see bigger bud structure from their use!

Click to expand...

dhiz said:

These are the updated photos. It is the end of week 8 since I changed from to 12/12 lighting but 6 weeks since I saw pistols. I checked trichomes and most are cloudy with about 5% amber. I am going to start just watering with plain water starting today for about 10 days. Should I go longer?View attachment 4224394 View attachment 4224395 View attachment 4224396 View attachment 4224397 View attachment 4224398 View attachment 4224399 View attachment 4224400 View attachment 4224401

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tyke1973 said:

I don't ph ain't done for years ,but they look great I say two week max and they should be ready.The Superbright LEDs are great for vegging so are the Mars 300's.but I all ways use T5's in early veg right through to flower 18 inch ,apart from this Mars Cob test I'm doing ,that will be getting the seedlings under it ,this thur.2 Two Bloody Skunk autos.Your heads are starting to go milky ,so I'm thinking the time frame I said above.they will gain more weight in that time .

Click to expand...