bobbuck
Well-Known Member
Scrap is what I was thinking . I'm going to keep a few to try and set up a 45w Vero 18 veg/clone light and take some temps and see what happens.
Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
bassman999
Well-Known Member
The heatsinks look similar to what I use for my lights.
My HS are 8"x8"
What does the led show...voltage?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Temps in °C or Tc. of the heatsink right behind a cob.
In one of my other builds I've an additional ampere/voltage meter.
Attachments
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145w CXB3590@1050mA & 20w Oslon SSL80 [email protected] -
Einbau aller Komponenten4.jpg -
Verkabelung fast fertig3.jpg
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
That's not so hard you maybe think.
You can buy these already color lacquered aluminum c-channels from a metal web shop according to your own specifications and then cut the holes out you need using jigsaw. Then drill a few holes for dimmer knob, fan and driver, glue-in the thermometer and connect the wiring. The hardest part is to sawing out precise holes!
I know starsailor? And some others have the metal working ability
bassman999
Well-Known Member
@Randomblame the fixtures you make are awesome dude!
I really want to make something close in function and looks to them.
My diy lights are fully functional, but very rough looking in contrast
I really want to make something close in function and looks to them.
My diy lights are fully functional, but very rough looking in contrast
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Thanks bro,
But you do not want to see my first build...
CPU coolers, aluminum rods and cable ties, lol!
So ugly, that I've put myself ashamed in the corner.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
You got better, right? That's the main thing.
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Hold on a minute! Stop the press! You're being to hard on yourself. You're talking about ty-raps, aluminum rods (you left out pvc pipe and duct-tape and bailing wire) like there are bad things? A pile a buds safely grown trumps beauty every time!
And did I forget Kapton tape and RTV sealer?
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HalfBee
Well-Known Member
So true... first builds are supposed to bee fugly if you aren't doing it from a kit.
Finding out what works and testing/salvaging parts is only part of the problem.
Using skills outside your comfort zone (power tools), having disabilities, and such
almost guarantee it won't look perfect.
Spent uncounted hours doing Cob/heatsink combo calculations - so happy I got it right...
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Sounds like my lights lol
How do you bend and cut the aluminum?
Voidling
Well-Known Member
How many watts do you plan to run on the cobs? Full power, 40%, something in between? The heat sink doesn't care the source so much as to what the full load is in watts.
I'm not sure the numbers they're using now, used to be 110cm2/watt which would be 20 watts of led. I think that was passive. I'm going to find time to catch up on new info
If my calculations are correct, it'll be 56.34% efficient so 21 heat watts per cob I think. I'm using Mean well HLG-185H-1400B driver to run 3 or 4 cobs.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
I run between 30 and 40 watts per cob during flowering using (2) HLG-240s and 12 cobs in a 2x4 (8ft^2) tent.
So 1.5 cobs and 45-60watts per ft^2.
Overkill, but makes up for my small space and only average skills
I run between 21% and 29% of max output flowering and about half that vegging
So 1.5 cobs and 45-60watts per ft^2.
Overkill, but makes up for my small space and only average skills
I run between 21% and 29% of max output flowering and about half that vegging
muleface
Well-Known Member
so is 110cm2/w for passive cooling? does this scale out pretty well, so a 20 w cob would need 2200 cm2 and a 100 w cob would need 11000 cm2?
