Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical

squarepush3r

squarepush3r

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
Just buy 50 feet of 4" flex pvc and run a continous coil like a spring. Drill holes for net pots and use medium pressure low flow misters http://www.dripirrigation.com/index.php?cPath=43&sort=2a&page=3 run intermittantly by using a timer and solenoid valve. You would need a beeter , higher pressure pum than used for low pressure misters. Such as this Iwaki on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Magnet-Pump-Model-MD-30RZT-115NL-Unused_W0QQitemZ230392742077QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Pumps?hash=item35a47a40bd It provide 24 psi, not the piddly 5 psi or so provided by the low pressure fountain pumps etc. Iwakis are known for being the quietest and best made mag drive pumps on the marjket.

Cut some plywood donut shaped rings out of plywood make one cut though one side of like sized rings so that they can be twisted into a ramp to supportthe flex tubing. They need only be about 3" wide Make a larger ring for the top and bottom of the tower. Space out the inner rings attached to up rights attached between the bottom ring and the top ring. Twist the inner rings to form the spiral and attach to the outter up rights. You should end up with one almost continous long coil. Run the tubing to feed the spray heads ouside the frame work. Spray paint everthing but the mister heads with Krylon fushion flat white paint. Buy one piece of 5' long glass tubing http://www.winshipdesigns.com/home/ws3/page_16547_35/150x3x1500mm_simax_tubing.html and insert two lights, one from the top and one from the bottom. Install fan at the bottom. Put large industrial/commercial caster type wheels under the bottom ring. http://cgi.ebay.com/Caster-5-Wheel-Set-Locking-Ball-Bearing-Heavy-Duty_W0QQitemZ130339452392QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Casters?hash=item1e58d635e8 Drain the end of the continous tube to a reservoir. Drape the vertical tower with white on black poly and leave the top and bottom open. To do maintenance etc, merely remove the wrap and reach in from outside. It would be easily adapted to CO2, carbon cans etc. Check prices and you would likely find that with the continous tubing that need no fittings that the piping costs are probaly lower. Plus there are no nooks and crannyies to gather crud. Very simple to clean. Just feed a wire or rope through the tubes length. Tie a rag to the end of the rope or wire and pull the rag through the pre wetted tube. Even better try three or four rags on the end a few feet apart.
Click to expand...
looks good, I have never heard of a solenoid valve before, but this may solve some other problems I was thinking of also.

Where would the misters? How many misters would you use? I guess thats the only part I didn't understand exactly how the misters would be able to water all the roots of all the plants (say 40 plants).

This is a good idea to explore, the only drawback I see, is the Flex-PVC is very expensive, may be over $500 for this system in tube alone.



That 5hit said:
you gat to love this guy hidden room wall
check out this vertical grow and its a water cooled light 1kw
heres the link https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/263979-sealed-water-cooled-blueberry-coco.html#post3315542
Click to expand...
wow, never heard of water cooled light before, must check this out
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
The mister would just be one betwwen ecah plant. The ones I use do not even need grommets. Just drill the hole and stick them in. The solenoid is so that the pump just runs 24 hours per day. Turning them on and off cosnstantly lowers there life spans considerably. With the solenoid you just install a fitting just past the pumps discahrge. On the "T" you put the solenoid. When the solenoid opens its water path offers almost no resistance to flow. As water always tkaes the path of least resistance it will just flow through the open solenoid and flow straight back to the resrvoir. When it closes it will flow through the tubing feeding the misters.

Water cooled tubes are quite easy to make if you have a router. Just buy 1"thick cell cast scrap plastic on eBay and amke your end cao ps. The link to the galss blowing shop I posted has tubing in evey size up to 7 inch diameter. I have scads of water cooled tubes. Shipping is expensive to here for the tubing, bt all combined I only have an average of about $100 to $120 into each water cooled tube. I have some that are a full 5 foot long with three bulbs inside. They are best used with a flow switch so that they switch turns off the light if the water quits flowing. Otherwise if the lights are real close to the plants they can burn pretty quickly without the water flowing. I am quite sure if you check the pt rice of a bunch of fittings and pipe both they are far from cheap either, I think heath siwrote he spent $500 dollars on pipe and fittings. With the flex pvc you would only need tow fittings t most. A cap at the top and a cap or reduver at the bottom to run the last foot or two to your reservoir. So they costs are not really any different. Fifty feet of tubing is $393 dollars. At three foot in diameter that would give you about five tiers. Not cheap but totally seamless so no nooks or crannies to catch trash etc. no measuring , cutting, fitting, gluing and such. Nnd readily reusable if you go bigger in diameter or smaller in diameter. With the rigid pipe you would need to v cut and extend or shorten anduse a bunch of couplings. If you have larger farm stores where you live the likely have larger black poly pipe. It is not as flexible but it is likely cheaper.

I would put a 2" pot every six inches, with a mister between each one. Nep oprene spit ring on top of the pots. Nothing in the pots, no hydroton or rock wool.
 
squarepush3r

squarepush3r

Well-Known Member
hey guys

I just found this

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=1656c29acad5694825fc264b1d80bb27

in the future, if you want you can use this to make some 3D sketches of things you are trying to make. I'm going to use it now to try to jot down some models I've been thinking of.



EDIT: here is my creation
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=62641a5cc02cb7edc9bbcc572d1ea695&prevstart=0

I read it takes 1-2 days before you can fully 3-D view it, so keep checking, but for now there is a 2D view
 
xogenic

xogenic

Well-Known Member
squarepush3r said:
hey guys

I just found this

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=1656c29acad5694825fc264b1d80bb27

in the future, if you want you can use this to make some 3D sketches of things you are trying to make. I'm going to use it now to try to jot down some models I've been thinking of.



EDIT: here is my creation
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=62641a5cc02cb7edc9bbcc572d1ea695&prevstart=0

I read it takes 1-2 days before you can fully 3-D view it, so keep checking, but for now there is a 2D view
Click to expand...
sexy little bit of software nice find mate
 
squarepush3r

squarepush3r

Well-Known Member
fatman7574 said:
The mister would just be one betwwen ecah plant. The ones I use do not even need grommets. Just drill the hole and stick them in. The solenoid is so that the pump just runs 24 hours per day. Turning them on and off cosnstantly lowers there life spans considerably. With the solenoid you just install a fitting just past the pumps discahrge. On the "T" you put the solenoid. When the solenoid opens its water path offers almost no resistance to flow. As water always tkaes the path of least resistance it will just flow through the open solenoid and flow straight back to the resrvoir. When it closes it will flow through the tubing feeding the misters.

Water cooled tubes are quite easy to make if you have a router. Just buy 1"thick cell cast scrap plastic on eBay and amke your end cao ps. The link to the galss blowing shop I posted has tubing in evey size up to 7 inch diameter. I have scads of water cooled tubes. Shipping is expensive to here for the tubing, bt all combined I only have an average of about $100 to $120 into each water cooled tube. I have some that are a full 5 foot long with three bulbs inside. They are best used with a flow switch so that they switch turns off the light if the water quits flowing. Otherwise if the lights are real close to the plants they can burn pretty quickly without the water flowing. I am quite sure if you check the pt rice of a bunch of fittings and pipe both they are far from cheap either, I think heath siwrote he spent $500 dollars on pipe and fittings. With the flex pvc you would only need tow fittings t most. A cap at the top and a cap or reduver at the bottom to run the last foot or two to your reservoir. So they costs are not really any different. Fifty feet of tubing is $393 dollars. At three foot in diameter that would give you about five tiers. Not cheap but totally seamless so no nooks or crannies to catch trash etc. no measuring , cutting, fitting, gluing and such. Nnd readily reusable if you go bigger in diameter or smaller in diameter. With the rigid pipe you would need to v cut and extend or shorten anduse a bunch of couplings. If you have larger farm stores where you live the likely have larger black poly pipe. It is not as flexible but it is likely cheaper.

I would put a 2" pot every six inches, with a mister between each one. Nep oprene spit ring on top of the pots. Nothing in the pots, no hydroton or rock wool.
Click to expand...
@fatman7574

could you elaborate on your mister placement exactly? If I understand, the misters are to be between each plant, but inside the piping? So, you drill a hole from the outside of the spiral, and install the misters from the inside (so they point inwards). Then, you run a water tube on the outside which connects each mister, to the high powered pump in the resovior?

I just wasn't sure the exact placement of the misters ... thanks
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
http://www.dripirrigation.com/index.php?cPath=43&sort=2a&page=3

Just drill a hole an equal distance between each net pot hole. The hole should be a snug fit allowing that all of the mister up to the flange be fit through the hole. That puts the mister spray starting at just below the inside of the pipe. A 1/4" hose is force fit over the fittings barb attachment area. Heat the end of the tubing in an insualted cup full of hot water makes it easy to install.

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-328-polyethylene-tubing-nsf58.aspx1/4 Tubing

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-500-john-guest-pp-range-white-polypropylene-fittings.aspx Fittings

http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Magnet-Pump-Model-MD-30RZT-115NL-Unused_W0QQitemZ370283657391QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Pumps?hash=item5636a038af Pump.

The pump delivers 24 psi. Most fountain pumps deliver about 3 to 5 psi. It is considered the most quiet and best made magnetic pump brand in the U.S. It normally retails for about $300. It is however an external pump, not a submersible. However that means it does not heat up the water as does a submersible pump.


I would make the mister plumbing risers out of 3/8" tubing and use a 3/8"x 3/8"x3/8" "T" for each two misters and use a 3/8" x1/4" x 1/4" "T" at each of those T's to attach the 1/4" tube to each of two misters. With a 3 foot diameter tower you would have approximattely 18 holes per each level and 5 levels. That would mean 9 vertical 3/8" risers and 9 3/8"x 3/8"x3/8" "T's" for each level and each of those would have one 3/8" x1/4" x 1/4" "T".

The bottom would have a ring that had 9 3/8"x 3/8"x3/8" T's a cap and an adapter to convert to the pipe size used on your pump, its T and the solenoid valve. All the tubing main lines should run out side the tower so as to stay out of the way and so as to take in less heat from light exposure.

It is preferrable to buy black tubing and pray paint it flat white after assembly. Black stops light penetration and therefore algae growth. The white refects light. Kyrlon Fushion paint works well as it is specifically made for painting plastic.

The fittings are not cheap but they are pretty simple to work with and are leak free if the tubing is cut squarely. They are reusable and are cheaper when bought in bulk in larger numbers. In bulk they are likely half the cost of buying at a chain hardware store. Plus there is no wetted surface made of metal.
 
DST

DST

Well-Known Member
Very impressive construction going on here. I am starting a vertical for my next grow but using coco and a bit less futuristic looking. +rep for the building skills for sure.

Peace, DST
 
milowerx96

milowerx96

Active Member
That pump gave me wood!



fatman7574 said:
http://www.dripirrigation.com/index.php?cPath=43&sort=2a&page=3

Just drill a hole an equal distance between each net pot hole. The hole should be a snug fit allowing that all of the mister up to the flange be fit through the hole. That puts the mister spray starting at just below the inside of the pipe. A 1/4" hose is force fit over the fittings barb attachment area. Heat the end of the tubing in an insualted cup full of hot water makes it easy to install.

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-328-polyethylene-tubing-nsf58.aspx1/4 Tubing

http://www.freshwatersystems.com/c-500-john-guest-pp-range-white-polypropylene-fittings.aspx Fittings

http://cgi.ebay.com/Iwaki-Magnet-Pump-Model-MD-30RZT-115NL-Unused_W0QQitemZ370283657391QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Pumps?hash=item5636a038af Pump.

The pump delivers 24 psi. Most fountain pumps deliver about 3 to 5 psi. It is considered the most quiet and best made magnetic pump brand in the U.S. It normally retails for about $300. It is however an external pump, not a submersible. However that means it does not heat up the water as does a submersible pump.


I would make the mister plumbing risers out of 3/8" tubing and use a 3/8"x 3/8"x3/8" "T" for each two misters and use a 3/8" x1/4" x 1/4" "T" at each of those T's to attach the 1/4" tube to each of two misters. With a 3 foot diameter tower you would have approximattely 18 holes per each level and 5 levels. That would mean 9 vertical 3/8" risers and 9 3/8"x 3/8"x3/8" "T's" for each level and each of those would have one 3/8" x1/4" x 1/4" "T".

The bottom would have a ring that had 9 3/8"x 3/8"x3/8" T's a cap and an adapter to convert to the pipe size used on your pump, its T and the solenoid valve. All the tubing main lines should run out side the tower so as to stay out of the way and so as to take in less heat from light exposure.

It is preferrable to buy black tubing and pray paint it flat white after assembly. Black stops light penetration and therefore algae growth. The white refects light. Kyrlon Fushion paint works well as it is specifically made for painting plastic.

The fittings are not cheap but they are pretty simple to work with and are leak free if the tubing is cut squarely. They are reusable and are cheaper when bought in bulk in larger numbers. In bulk they are likely half the cost of buying at a chain hardware store. Plus there is no wetted surface made of metal.
Click to expand...
 
N

n.dap

Member
okay im new here to the forum and god damn this system is attractive. i had acouple questions if anyone could answer them, i have done plenty of outdoor grows, but recently i bought a dual cooltube with brand new 600watt hps bulbs and remote ballasts. i know the digis are or efficient but for my first grow ill use the remotes. i understand the layout and everything im just wondering about the water system. i know it DWC i understand how that works and everything to. my questions directed toward the filling of the tubes. as you said you fill all the tubes....... as in you fill all 4 layers of 4' tubing to 1/4' up the netting bucket. and you fill rez how many gallons? or im i getting it wrong. could sumone please explain. once i get this then i will start the building process of the vertical style flood tubes
 
squarepush3r

squarepush3r

Well-Known Member
n.dap said:
okay im new here to the forum and god damn this system is attractive. i had acouple questions if anyone could answer them, i have done plenty of outdoor grows, but recently i bought a dual cooltube with brand new 600watt hps bulbs and remote ballasts. i know the digis are or efficient but for my first grow ill use the remotes. i understand the layout and everything im just wondering about the water system. i know it DWC i understand how that works and everything to. my questions directed toward the filling of the tubes. as you said you fill all the tubes....... as in you fill all 4 layers of 4' tubing to 1/4' up the netting bucket. and you fill rez how many gallons? or im i getting it wrong. could sumone please explain. once i get this then i will start the building process of the vertical style flood tubes
Click to expand...
ya, up at the bottoms of the netbuckets is good.

for your Rez, put the total amount of water for all your buckets together, then add a few gallons for buffer in case of evaporation, etc..
 
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