Has anybody ever done a REAL SOG?

Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Back in the day I ran a lot of grows with SoG. Rooted 6 inch clones for 20 days to get them really rooted, put in 6 inch square pots with LECA and 48 plants per 4x4 area (7x7 grid minus 1 for tray fittings) under a 1kW SE HPS, flood and drain, straight to flower, lollipop at day 20. Pulled 20 - 21 grams per plant mostly in one big cola.

Did that for many years because it didn't matter if I grew 99 plants or 1200 plants, now I am focused on large plants to stay in a plant count or I would still be doing the SoG.

I am a believer that you want a plant that really stretches after flip to do a no veg SoG. My plants ended up 40 - 44 inches tall with a 14 - 16 inch cola, the strain was land race Shiva. That was a killer indica.
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Keesje said:
I think if you do 50 plants per square meter, you could achieve 10, 11, 12 and heck maybe even 14 gramms per plant under a 600 W HPS (I had that, because there was not much else these days.)

If I would do it again (which I won't because clones also cost money for example, and it is a lot of work as well) I would do it with E & F.
A simple system which will give each plant the amount of water it needs: Never too little, never too much.
With soil you can drown one plant, and leave the other one too dry. With 9 plants you can check that, control it, and adjust. With 50... impossible.
Click to expand...
I plan on using the hlg 600h led grow light. It’s supposed to be a DE replacement allegedly
 
mauricem00

mauricem00

Well-Known Member
I grew 8 plants from seed in a 2ft by 4 ft tent in 3 gallon pots. vegging time was shorter and yield was a little higher than S.C.R.O.G. the only drawback was the cost of seed. I never had much luck with cloning
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Back in the day I ran a lot of grows with SoG. Rooted 6 inch clones for 20 days to get them really rooted, put in 6 inch square pots with LECA and 48 plants per 4x4 area (7x7 grid minus 1 for tray fittings) under a 1kW SE HPS, flood and drain, straight to flower, lollipop at day 20. Pulled 20 - 21 grams per plant mostly in one big cola.

Did that for many years because it didn't matter if I grew 99 plants or 1200 plants, now I am focused on large plants to stay in a plant count or I would still be doing the SoG.

I am a believer that you want a plant that really stretches after flip to do a no veg SoG. My plants ended up 40 - 44 inches tall with a 14 - 16 inch cola, the strain was land race Shiva. That was a killer indica.
Click to expand...
Do you think I would/ it could be better to use a hydroton type grow?
I was thinking about running 50 in 6” pot straight coco or 1gal pot mixed coco perlite 70/30.
they would be on timers. And I was going to use the HLG 600h. It’s supposed to replace a de hps.
right now I currently have a cut of chem d, slurricane, and strawnanapie.
have you grown any of these? I was thinking about running the chem D for the first run.
I was gonna take cuts maybe 6-8 inches with like... 2-4 nodes on each? Or do you think I’m over thinking it?
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Hydroton is LECA and that is by far my preferred flood and drain medium.
Click to expand...
damn. I was gonna do drain to waste...
ive been doing research the last couple hours on hydroton flood and drain. Are there certain 6” pots you use? I saw somewhite ones that weredecently tall. Wasn’t sure on the difference
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
6" square white is what I like.
Click to expand...
Question... is it possible to set up an ebb and flow where the reservoir is in the other room? I would imagine you don’t want that water temp above 72 kinda like with a DTW system? My grow area will be in the 80’s (gonna run co2 and use led lights).
also, when flooding, approx how many inches do you want to flood? I saw an example of flooding 3 inches, but can’t find much info onthe amount of flooding and whatnot.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
TBH I don't worry about nutrient temperatures with flood and drain, the roots get plenty of oxygen between floods. You can put the res remote if you want so long as it's below the tray so gravity works for you. I always built a "sand box" using 2x12 lumber and lag bolts, then line it with pond liner and put a few pieces of square tubing across for tray support. This gives you max capacity, low profile and the tray sits right on it.

I still have the pots but I don't wish to sell them. Active Aqua 6" wide 8" tall square pots, thats what I use. Like 60 bucks for a case of 50.
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
I flood as deep as possible, roots only grow below the water line and I want as much as possible.
Click to expand...
Alright I’m gonna do some more research on it and reply in a few hours to pick your brain if that’s cool with you lol
Yeah looks like I’ll be getting those kinds of pots
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
When I pot clones (rapid rooters) I set them just deep enough that the bottom 1/4" of the plug is below the flood level at max depth. Otherwise you end up top feeding by hand every flood for the first 2 - 3 days (that sucks). I flood every 4 hours, just long enough to hit max depth and only when lights are on.
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
When I pot clones (rapid rooters) I set them just deep enough that the bottom 1/4" of the plug is below the flood level at max depth. Otherwise you end up top feeding by hand every flood for the first 2 - 3 days (that sucks). I flood every 4 hours, just long enough to hit max depth and only when lights are on.
Click to expand...
So I’m gonna get those white pots to do this.
am I only wanting to flood the tray until the water is covering the holes at the bottom/sides of the pots?
So that if roots grow out, they’re still getting nutrients? Or should I just try to flood about 3-5 inches over the flower cycle? More flooding when the plants are in middle of flower towards the end?
Damn so you think I’ll have to top feed the first couple days after transplant to their final pots?
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Flood deep, as deep as you can, the roots only grow below the flood depth, more root = more fruit.
Click to expand...
Ok so I can be slow at times, but when you say “plug” you’re talking about the rapid rooters, right? Lol
If that’s the case, when I put the plug into the pot, make sure the bottom 1/4” of the plug will be getting water to it? Like after it’s filled all around the pot.
so basically flood the table until like the last couple inches of the pot (from the top) is covered in water? Until it’s at least getting the rapid rooter?
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Plug = rapid rooter

Put a pot in the tray and flood it to max depth, mark a line on the pot and make sure that your rapid rooters end up with the bottom 1/4" below that line.

Does that make sense?
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Make sure to have enough reservoir capacity so that you can flood to full depth and the pump intake stays submerged in the reservoir. And have extra or you will have to top off excessively often to keep the pump submerged. Larger capacity is always better because you can go longer without adjustments to PPM / pH. I run my F&D reservoirs for the whole flowering cycle with only top offs and add backs.
 
Renfro

Renfro

Well-Known Member
Also, you can use a float valve that's fed by a solenoid valve plugged into a timer. To automatically top off the reservoir daily you can set the timer to open the solenoid valve for say 20 - 30 minutes in the middle of the dark period (when all the water is going to be in the reservoir).

Beduan 12V 1/4" Inlet Water Solenoid Valve Normally Closed for RO Reverse Osmosis Pure System: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Beduan 12V 1/4" Inlet Water Solenoid Valve Normally Closed for RO Reverse Osmosis Pure System: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com

The solenoid valve will only function in one direction so if you can't get it to close just switch the input and output on the valve.
 
TreeFiddy350

TreeFiddy350

Well-Known Member
Renfro said:
Also, you can use a float valve that's fed by a solenoid valve plugged into a timer. To automatically top off the reservoir daily you can set the timer to open the solenoid valve for say 20 - 30 minutes in the middle of the dark period (when all the water is going to be in the reservoir).

Beduan 12V 1/4" Inlet Water Solenoid Valve Normally Closed for RO Reverse Osmosis Pure System: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Beduan 12V 1/4" Inlet Water Solenoid Valve Normally Closed for RO Reverse Osmosis Pure System: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com

The solenoid valve will only function in one direction so if you can't get it to close just switch the input and output on the valve.
Click to expand...
Alright bet. That works. Question... if I’m gonna try to put the reservoir in the other room, I need to make sure I have a strong af pump to pump it to the other room and fill the table. As well as whenever it drains, I need to have a pump that will... suck it through the tube, back into the reservoir.
do you happen to know of a pump like that?
I currently have this pump...
 

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