Harvesting...!!!!.HELP!!!! BUDS SMELL GRASSY AFTER TRIMMING

Brick Top

New Member
BRICKTOP-well call me an expert cuz i dry for 2-4 days then cure for a month and dont get mold...WHAT DO U DO?

I follow the following information. Let me know what you think of it.


Marijuana

Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana



Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.

Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.

When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves.

The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.

Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.

When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).

Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.

If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.

Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.


Drying Marijuana After Harvest

You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.
Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.

The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.

A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.

A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.

You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.

At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.

Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers
have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.


Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.

A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.


Curing Marijuana

It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.

At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.

The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).

To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.

Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.

When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes
are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.


Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.

You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.

You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).

The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.

If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.

Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).

If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.

Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.

Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.

I did pretty much what is written above for a long time and then adapted what I did slightly to follow what is stated above and it works perfectly and I believe it to be as good of a system for drying and curing as can be found.

But after all what do I know, I have only done this for 37 years now?

I am curious, are you even 37 years old let alone grown for 37 years?
 

Brick Top

New Member
the link u posted says dry for a week or two i thinks thats to long..i'd say till the bud is dry on the outside not until the stem cracks then it get to dry and u loose that sticky goey-ness..

Depending on the size and density of each different average bud size per grow drying time can vary somewhat so a range is given. If you have tiny air filled buds they will of course dry faster than large heavy dense buds will.

But if you have a good harvest a week or two is not to long if your conditions are correct. If you have large thick heavy dense buds and your conditions are correct for properly drying your harvest it is impossible for you to have properly dried bud in 2 to 3 days.

If you have dry bud in 2 to 3 days your humidity level was WAY to low or your temperature was WAY to high or both were WAY off. The result is that your bud will not be all that it can be, it will not taste as good as it can and you can lose potency too.

Only through proper drying techniques can you turn your harvest into all that it can be.

Of course it is more than just obvious that you honestly believe that you know vastly more than experts on marijuana know and are one of those who tell other people to do things the way that you have decided on your own to be best but unlike you I believe in helping people with the best possible information and advice that can be found so that is what I share with people.
 

SCORPIO13

Well-Known Member
I use the information on the web site that brick top is giving out and I have had outstanding results. That website is where I get most of my info from and it has not failed me yet.
 

Brick Top

New Member
I use the information on the web site that brick top is giving out and I have had outstanding results. That website is where I get most of my info from and it has not failed me yet.



It is expert advice and you cannot go wrong following expert advice.

You will only go wrong if you take the advice of people on sites like this who say ‘well I do this’ or ‘I do that.’
 

Kriegs

Well-Known Member
It is expert advice and you cannot go wrong following expert advice.

You will only go wrong if you take the advice of people on sites like this who say ‘well I do this’ or ‘I do that.’
Word... and I've seen enough of BT's input to know it's good, and always written in English to boot.

Personally, once I've built up a nice stash doing it the right way like it's laid out here, I might play around with other experiments... but until then...

That said, I don't see any harm in quick drying a little bit just to check it out. Just keep it in perspective (hard for some, I know). Knowing it's not all it could be just gives me more motivation to do it right for 99% of the crop. I quick-dried a little off mine tonight -- smokes smooth, nice head-high after 3 hits... better than a lot of shit I've seen over my 30+ years of smoking.
 

darthCannabis

Active Member
Well the thing is all weed have different smells. Some smell like pine trees and some smell like freshly cut grass. Even though it smells like grass it will smoke wonderfully. Don't lose your head over the smell of the plant. After its done drying and curing in a air lock jar smoke it. I think you'll be impressed by the way it smokes. Happy smoke trails :bigjoint: Peace
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
I follow the following information. Let me know what you think of it.


Marijuana

Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana



Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.

Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.

When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with you bare hands. With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves.

The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.

Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.

When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).

Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.

If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.

Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.


Drying Marijuana After Harvest

You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.
Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.

The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.

A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates over all the plants is necessary.

A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.

You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.

At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.

At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.

Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers
have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.


Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.

A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.


Curing Marijuana

It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%. You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems snap or break (rather than fold) when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.

At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.

The cure lasts a week or two. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC (that increases potency).

To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say plastic can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.

Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few pounds or less. They have a rubber seal and hold 2 or more ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.

When curing quantities in excess of a few pounds, large (over 40 quarts) plastic storage boxes
are recommended. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.


Gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.

You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.

You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).

The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.

If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.

Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).

If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.

Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.

Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.

I did pretty much what is written above for a long time and then adapted what I did slightly to follow what is stated above and it works perfectly and I believe it to be as good of a system for drying and curing as can be found.

But after all what do I know, I have only done this for 37 years now?

I am curious, are you even 37 years old let alone grown for 37 years?
coo good info but whats up with all the bs at the end i never said i know everything.. im telling u what i do ur the one acting like u know everything but u just post and get info from websites.. i can do that to..age dont mean nothing get a job growing or working at a cannabis club. i did thats how i know what i know. I dry till the weed is dry on the outside not until i can crack the branch thats takes away freshness..and thats what u do wait till the branch cracks right? well ur shit coulda been fresher..thats good u have grown for 37years good 4u but that doesnt mean u know everything and im telling u i dry for 3-5days and cure for longer with no damn mold..try it then we'll talk
 

Brick Top

New Member
coo good info but whats up with all the bs at the end i never said i know everything.. im telling u what i do ur the one acting like u know everything but u just post and get info from websites..

So you want to know what is up? I guess I will have to tell you.

I never said that you have claimed to know everything. I said that you concocted your own system and it is contrary to that of what experts in growing marijuana have learned and teach.

You claimed that I find information from websites, as if expert information is somehow less than accurate just because it comes from a website, but I had previously stated that previous to having found said information I had already been using a system that was very close to the information I later found and then I altered what I did to be in line with the expert information.

I also stated that unlike you I share expert information and do not tell people to do what I have concocted myself but to instead do what experts in growing marijuana say is the very best thing that someone can do and all I add to that is that I follow what they teach and that it works perfectly.

I also added that unlike you my only desire it to help those who need instruction by supplying them with the very best of advice while you instead tell them what you do, that experts and myself and others here have said is a sure fire way to end up with moldy bud, and you mislead them with horrible advice.

I most sincerely hope that was clear enough for you. I would express myself monosylabically if it were possible in an attempt to further assist you in possibly being able to understand what I write but frankly attempting to think down to your level causes me to suffer headaches and low-grade nausea.
 

Brick Top

New Member
u sound like u think u know to much..try what i said then u can talk shit if i lead u in the wrong direction

I need not try what you now do because decades ago before I had learned very much about this sort of thing I tried it and learned that it is a sure fire way to end up with moldy bud and also because experts in growing marijuana clearly state that what you do is a sure fire way to end up with moldy bud.

But once again it is evident that you want and need to believe that you know vastly more than true experts in growing marijuana know and also vastly more than someone with 37 years of experience in growing marijuana knows.

Since that is what you need to believe than by all means cling to your delusion but it would be kind of you if you were to not attempt to mislead others and try to get them to follow in your footsteps.

Sites like this have a purpose and that is to share factual knowledge and to advance others base of knowledge and spreading falsehoods and incorrect information that will bring about disastrous results impedes the furtherance of factual knowledge and harms others.
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
dude u sure got alot to say even tho u dont know what the hell ur talking about..and i write like this cuz its faster and im not tryin to make it perfect..anyways im telling u what i do and i dont get any mold on my shit.. i dont give a damn what u think i came on here saying what i do i coulda just as easily took ur route and posted some shit from a website but i wanted people to understand that i dry less and cure more and it works for me if u dont like what i say then dont even try it i dont care dude im telling u what i do not telling u to do it
 

dankmango

Well-Known Member
it works with little baby nugs maybe, but not a jar full if you get good harvest's bro. keep growin n you'll learn homegrown. buds contain 75% water n other vapor stuff it in and if you dont dry it all the way out you dont have real chronic. prolly taste like schwag
 

jimisimmortal

Well-Known Member
bricktop you showing how truly small time you are,you claim to be experienced but you store your weed in jars?lol, you must grow pissy little plants,or very few plants if you store the shit in jars,i mean how many jars you got? personally i measure experience in plants not years,i started when i was 14 and have been growing for 14 years,a mate in his sixties taught me everything,and he too had been growing since he was 14,that first year me and him alone harvested more than 2 thousand plants and yeilded around 900 pound,how many jars is that!!! man i spent every waking hour diggin holes and burying buckets,if you ask me experience and jars dont go together very well, if you grew 25 plants for every one of your 37 years thats still only 925 plants,i had you beat in my first year,25 plants seems like the absolute max for putting in jars,i say it again how many jars you got lol
 

HomeGrown420baby

Well-Known Member
it works with little baby nugs maybe, but not a jar full if you get good harvest's bro. keep growin n you'll learn homegrown. buds contain 75% water n other vapor stuff it in and if you dont dry it all the way out you dont have real chronic. prolly taste like schwag
what the hell r u talking about? im telling u foo's what i do..i aint tryin to have a debate just dry as needed like i do when the buds dry on the outside it gets cured and dankmango stranger who dont know shit my buds tastes fruity and fresh all the time not schwagy rookie
 

jimisimmortal

Well-Known Member
you tell em homegrown! dont even bother listening to these punks,theres more than 1 way to skin a cat,what the hell do they know if they aint tryed it?i bet if you look at some of these guys other posts all you find is a bunch of procrastinators who love to blow there own trumpets.personaly i dont cure in jars or any other sort of container,i only put em in something when they ready to store,and mine still smells and smokes great 18 months later(it would last i lot longer buts always been smoked by then.)
 

jimisimmortal

Well-Known Member
ya just know that when bricktop says "experts" he means the so called experts that supply the seed banks, with that genetically challenged crap that everybody on these forums is so fond of, we laugh at all that ak47,northern lights,durban poisonblahblahblah here in new zealand,we use their strains but not till its been crossed backwards and fowards a few times with our own,why?,because no stable strain should herm from a storm,or rot and die before the seasons done.
 

Boneman

Well-Known Member
J dog....read up on harvesting and curing but heres a quick lesson.

Hang dry in a cool dark place for about a week or until the stem snaps (not breaks). Then put the buds into mason jars and burp them periodically. After about a month you will have good looking, smelling and tasting weed.
 

outranked

Active Member
my first grow i made the mistake of drying for 4 day and curing for a month after and guess what???? bud rot!!... never made that mistake again so i dry for 6-10 days and cure for 3-6 weeks and i never have any probs
I dry 10-12 days.. cure 60-70. mason jars in closet. I open each jar 10 mins a day @ 2 times per day.. Never harsh.. always smells great.

Also , Brick top is 110% correct. I got this method from a friend in nor-cal where I live. He does a 90 day cure. swears by it.. 70 days works for me.. I keep saying im going to let one go for 90... but hey :) any ways 50 mason jars is alot.. keep em in the dark. give em a lil turn. Use the hydrometer , temp meter and use a fan , humidifier if needed... dont spen all that time just to rush the end.
 
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