Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

mindphuk

Well-Known Member
Dude? You're the one that said 2000 ppm's? You dont even know what your EC is. Your meter must suck?

I just joined YOUR site SON, what I read is,

Superstoner on your site cut your formula in half and kills it?

Maybe you aint the grower you thought you were?

By the way, I will spread my love to you honey, when you can tell us what EC your formula is, LOL! What is YOUR 2000 ppm? LOL!!!!!


Someone tell me this kid's a troll? No one can be this dense.
 

Bonzi Lighthouse

Well-Known Member
He's a Troll.

Far be it frome me to get involved in this thread, but since I am going to put my big toe into the DWC water, it seems PPM is a more accurate measurement than EC.

Next thing you know he will be yelling at us cause we don't know/use a contractor.

viva la inch long live the foot.

220...221 what ever it takes
 

sssdad

Active Member
i am SUPERSTONER and i dont have a fucking clue what EC is or what mine would be. and as you stated " i kill it" . it doesnt look like it matters that damn much now does it you whinney little 4yo girl.
 
Bonzi, it's not about accuracy, it's about errors in calibration.

EC stands Electrical Conductivity and it is specified in only one unit. PPM expresses electrical conductivity in terms of parts per million of SOME electrolyte. Unfortunately, there are SEVERAL different PPM standards but they are ALL simply called PPM. This can be a source of SUBSTANTIAL error. When you see PPM on the typical grow forum, you are expected to ASSUME that it is the Potassium standard- the PPM concentration of potassium salts. Other gardeners, primarily commercial vegetable ones, may be using the Sodium standard, and their meters will disagree markedly with ours. When people talk about PPM, you are never told to which standard their PPM meters are calibrated. It is a very REAL source of errors, and just plain dumb to use. Europeans use only EC, there's only one standard, no possibility of mix up, it's just smart. When you buy calibrating solution for your PPM meter, make sure it's for potassium based PPMs!

In the chart below, you see THREE PPM numbers for a single Electrical Conductivity value. Just to add even more confusion, some fool made up a scale called Conductivity Factor. Hey, just use EC and there will never be misunderstandings, and European growers will know what you're talking about.
 

WeedSands

Member
Hi SB

Thanks for the great tips and DIY details.

AWESOME!

Which app did you use to draw the aeroveg illustration?

Do you know which app mr buzzcut used to draw a drafting template for his 4 x4 fence post cutting guide?

He is not around any longer.

Thank you!

Regards
WS
 

rdpostem

Member
SB, and all other contributers, thank you for putting this together. this is a great thread!

I do have one question: What is the manufacture name of the 396 gph pumps to use.

I tried the search function (no results)
I did find a pump online but the head was 1.5 meters, this seems a bit weak.

I am reading all the posts, up to page 261 so far.

rd
 
I love you no matter what you say. I love my friends and my enemies. My love is unconditional...

Here is a printable ppm to EC conversion chart:
View attachment 1318074

I want everyone to understand this very important concept. Every strain is different just like every person is different. Some strains like high numbers while some like low numbers. What you need to learn is how to dial in your strain.

So let's say you start off with 1540 PPM using the Truncheon scale (2.2EC). After the first batch you notice that your plants stay a light green color. So the next batch you up your ppm to 2030 (2.9EC) and notice that the tips of the plants are burning and starting to curl under like a bird's claw. That tells you that you should be somewhere in between those numbers. I'd try 1750 PPM (2.5EC) and see what happens. It may take awhile or you may hit it the first time.

Another thing that is important to understand is Electrical Conductivity. Not everything conducts electricity. For example copper and gold are great conductors but rubber and glass are not. Organic nutrients contain many non conductive materials that won't show up on any meter. All we read is the salts in the mix. So remember, don't get hung up on numbers. They are just a starting reference. The number could be called Joe. All you need to now is how Joe+1 or Joe-1 effects your plants.

Does this make sense?
Stinkbud



P.S. Check out the Feb 2010 High Times and see for yourself if I know how to grow or not. Coming soon!!!

Arguing with this man would not only be unwise, it would be down right foolish!


Stinkbud- you are the apple of my eye!

Joe+1, Joe-1 = best comment on this site ever!
 
Dude? You're the one that said 2000 ppm's? You dont even know what your EC is. Your meter must suck?

I just joined YOUR site SON, what I read is,

Superstoner on your site cut your formula in half and kills it?

Maybe you aint the grower you thought you were?

By the way, I will spread my love to you honey, when you can tell us what EC your formula is, LOL! What is YOUR 2000 ppm? LOL!!!!!

Fletchman Aka: rude asshole
I bet this guy wears affliction shirts to bed!!!

Keep up the good work and love Stink
 

rdpostem

Member
Was reading about the waterfall sound,
Do not know if this is mentioned later in the thread.
#2630.

Why not use something like this for the water to land on?
filter.jpg
A coarse sponge or filter media that breaths easily.
This will let the water flow through with little restriction.

rd
 

growin4myhead

Active Member
Far be it frome me to get involved in this thread, but since I am going to put my big toe into the DWC water, it seems PPM is a more accurate measurement than EC.
just a little input, PPM is no more accurate than EC since all PPM is, is multiplying the EC value by a set number either x500 for a .5 meter or x700 for a .7 meter.
2.0 EC = 1000 PPM .5
............1400 PPM .7

See how knowing EC can just simplify it all.... that way you don't have to guess if the guy giving you the PPM reading is using a .5 or a .7 meter,there is a 400 PPM variance at that level, 400 ppm makes a big difference! EC is universal.

why did i bother getting in the middle of this shit? while I'm here, Props to stinkbud for an awesome system and method!
 

supaleeb

Active Member
Bonzi, it's not about accuracy, it's about errors in calibration.

EC stands Electrical Conductivity and it is specified in only one unit. PPM expresses electrical conductivity in terms of parts per million of SOME electrolyte. Unfortunately, there are SEVERAL different PPM standards but they are ALL simply called PPM. This can be a source of SUBSTANTIAL error. When you see PPM on the typical grow forum, you are expected to ASSUME that it is the Potassium standard- the PPM concentration of potassium salts. Other gardeners, primarily commercial vegetable ones, may be using the Sodium standard, and their meters will disagree markedly with ours. When people talk about PPM, you are never told to which standard their PPM meters are calibrated. It is a very REAL source of errors, and just plain dumb to use. Europeans use only EC, there's only one standard, no possibility of mix up, it's just smart. When you buy calibrating solution for your PPM meter, make sure it's for potassium based PPMs!

In the chart below, you see THREE PPM numbers for a single Electrical Conductivity value. Just to add even more confusion, some fool made up a scale called Conductivity Factor. Hey, just use EC and there will never be misunderstandings, and European growers will know what you're talking about.
One of the greatest tidbits on EC/PPM I've read in a while. Dove seems to have covered all grounds there, but I just wanted to add that potassium-based PPM scales are also referred to as "ppm500."
 

jblwired

Active Member
A cycle timer solution for those who understand how to add heavy duty contactors and want to save a few bucks. I just wanted to make sure any new folks know about this, just in case. A few years back, I discovered that with one of these timers, running a heavy enough contactor, I could turn on anything for a moment, and off for whatever amount of time, indefinitely. I am not advertising these, they are simply the best find for me ever. Hope it helps someone. Happy growing!!!

http://www.canakit.com/60-minute-1-hour-adjustable-on-off-cyclic-timer-kit-ck191m60-uk191m60.html
 
So I read somewhere on RIU something about the Stanley Blower Fan and decided to check one out. I must say, for $50 bucks they are pretty bad ass. Oh yeah... it has 3 speeds too! 1100, 1800, and 2100 cfm i think. If you need something vented, blown, cooled or whatever and don't want to shell $200 for a "grow" fan, you might want to look at one.

Now how the heck can you use that thing in a duct ??
You can tape 6" flex duct to the end, or you can make it an 8" duct with an adapter from home depot:



A little cutting, some screwing, lots of hammering, and a little duct tape to seal up the "imperfections" and there ya go.





I mounted it for a room vent and it almost make your ears pop when it comes on.. and it super quiet too.

Got mine at the local Ace Hardware and it was on sale for 49.00. Lowe's has the same thing in black/gray made by lasco.

I think it goes without saying, wear good gloves when messing with duct stuff... or keep a needle and thread handy to sew yourself back together :shock:

Stink it up kids !
At a boy! Great idea.
 
Leave a male in your system. Watch it closely for balls. You have a long time before you have to worry.

When the balls start turning yellow that means they are just about to open. That's when you cut the plant down. Make sure you leave enough stems and leaves to keep the roots alive!!!! You may have to cut off some balls from the lower plant.

Now take your male plant and cut off some good branches and put them in a vase or glass of water. Just like flowers.

They will ripen up over a few days and start to open. Use a glass plate and tap the flowers over the plate a few times a day to collect the pollen.

Be sure and label the pollen and store it in the fridge or freezer. Now take a small watercolor brush and paint some of the pollen on the lower buds of the plants.

Before long you will have seed coming out your ass!

That's all there is to it! How about some tips...

Don't breed brothers and sisters unless you want some funky stuff.

Don't keep the new breed going unless it's as good or better than the parents.

You will get better results by mixing 2 completely different land race strains. Find a good male and try it with a bunch of different females. Too many males gets confusing.

It takes me many weeks to really judge the quality of the weed. I look for a number of different things.

The most important aspect to me is the high. I look at ceiling, feel and tolerance.

1) Ceiling - This is how high the weed can make you. With some Afghans you can only get so high. If you keep smoking more you just get sleepy. With some Sativas the more you smoke the higher you get. I want my smoke to have a high ceiling.

2) Feel - Does the weed make you feel tired and sleepy or energized and creative. I like having both strains around. Indicas are great for pain and insomnia. A mix is good for day use.

3) Tolerance - One of the most over looked aspects of weed. With some weed after a few weeks your body starts to build up a tolerance to the weed. You have to smoke more and more but it never is the same as when you first smoked it. Take a few weeks off and it's back to normal for a while.

Some people have confused tolerance with genetic drift. They keep taking clones from the same plants but they don't seem to be getting as high as they used to. They blame it on the plants and assume that the strain is getting weaker with each cutting. False.... The people have built up a tolerance to that specific type of pot.

Good bud will get you just as high after 10 years as it did the first hit. That's what makes Blueberry so good. DJ Short is one of the few breeders who understand the concept of tolerance. His strains always have lasting power.

After the high the most important thing to me is the taste and smell. I like all types of tastes and smells. Everything from fruity to spicy. This is totally a personal thing. There is no right or wrong answer. What ever you like is right!

Yield is the last thing I look at. The plant must be able to produce enough medicine to actually help people. There are a lot of good strains out there but they grow too slow and don't produce. I look for strains that will produce huge colas. They also need to finish up in a decent amount of time.

So find yourself a land race Afghan and a land race Sativa and breed yourself the next super Kush. Maybe you can name a strain after me...SB Kush?
Great read, thanks.
 
Hey Stink, hope all is well - congrats on the HT piece; good to know they are smart and have good taste as well as all the Stink-Buddies =)

After an unwanted hiatus, I am glad to be back on track - I'm sure I don't need to tell you, but tending to the girls, although work and sometimes a bit stressful, for the most part is so therapeutic and relaxing.

I had previously only built (2) units that I dubbed "Mantis" as they reminded me of a praying mantis, while I tried other methods in the same space (DWC, Ebb + Flow, Buckets - no matter which method, same strain, same nutes, same light, no plant out performed or out yielded the ones in the Mantis units! The proof is in the pudding) so now I put together my third unit which varies in a couple of ways;
* I came up with the PVC from underneath the posts using the same 2" bit used for the netpots.
* I used the window retainer clips mentioned by a couple of ppl a few pages back (Excellent idea, thank yo7u so much, works like a charm!)
* The posts are longer than the original 2, but I made less holes (6 per post) with more room - I think this will work out nicely.

Anyways, thought I'd share some pics and once again thank Stink, Dirt, and oh so many other ppl for making this one of the most informative, respectful, and powerful thread on this topic we all love dearly!

Gringo Loco =)












Nice modification.:cool:
 
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