Harvest a Pound Every Three Weeks!

do the roots grow straight down simply because they are not in water?

I am on my 1st grow right now. 5 plants (mixed kushes i started from seed in the Aerogarden) in a Bubbleponics system, 1 600W MH in a digital conversion ballast (will switch from MH to HPS 600W for flowering). As i write this it is now Day 32. I am trying to figure out how to best prune and thin my plants to increase the light at the bottom, but I am not sure if I should even thin yet, and I am not sure what leaves to cut. 2 are 10", 1 9", and 2 6". I was planning on letting them remain in veg. state for at least the rest of the month of June (21 more days) or until between 16" - 24". This will be a total of 51 days veg. and I will probably let them go to 60 days regardless of size before I switch them over to flowering. Is there anything you can suggest to make this a really good grow with lots of flowers? Should I bother to top off the plants since I can let them go all the way to 4"? Should I thin or prune at all yet? I know pruning increases node sites and branch growth but is it really necessary with what I have? Take a look at all my pics please. I await your reply and any help from others as well.

DIRTHAWKER said:

OK so i went to the flower room this morning and saw that my controller said the co2 was at 690ppm...what??? my co2 disperses from the fan that i turned up from low to medium last night. That along with the sensor that i put up higher in the canopy managed to use about 3 days worth over night!


stink how do you do your co2? I know you have the tube running above the garden...is it on just the outside perimeter below the lights? where do you put your sensor? My co2 has always been dispersed from my fan which is on 24/7.....

im gonna figure this out one way or the other.

Click to expand...

Hey Dirt - I know you and Stink are running different CO2 setup than me - but we do have the same Sentinel controller. I had a couple thoughts reading your post - though I am guessing you have already covered them:

What were your min and max CO2 levels? What is your setpoint? What is your deadband? Perhaps try "generate" rather than "fuzzy" for the CO2 setting.

The fan dispersing the CO2 is up high right? Another oscillating fan on the floor can help to stir up CO2 as it naturally falls. Be sure your exhaust is set to "link" rather than "split" to be certain you are not exhausting while gassing. Be sure a digital ballast is not interfering with your sensor.

A few things i am sort of confused about. 1st I know different strains require different methods of grow, ie: amount of light etc, does Stink's method basically apply as a "One universal" rule? 2nd question is along the lines of the first question, does the type of strain you want to grow effect the grow room / setup you want to use? I am sort of having trouble in trying to build and determine what type of grow room I need to build. "Sort of having trouble" would be a bit of an under statement... I am trying to work under a certain budget. However I do understand that having a solid and efficient grow room is the key to growing great bud. Or am I just getting ahead of myself?

LionsRoor said:

Hey Dirt - I know you and Stink are running different CO2 setup than me - but we do have the same Sentinel controller. I had a couple thoughts reading your post - though I am guessing you have already covered them:

What were your min and max CO2 levels? What is your setpoint? What is your deadband? Perhaps try "generate" rather than "fuzzy" for the CO2 setting.

The fan dispersing the CO2 is up high right? Another oscillating fan on the floor can help to stir up CO2 as it naturally falls. Be sure your exhaust is set to "link" rather than "split" to be certain you are not exhausting while gassing. Be sure a digital ballast is not interfering with your sensor.

Click to expand...

Thanks Lion , yea i double checked all the settings on my sentinel and everything is good. Last night i bought some small fans and set them underneath the racks pointing up. The sensor is hung closer to the tops and im getting a pretty steady reading now. Im going to closely watch the nutes, and change every two weeks instead of three and also buy a ph meter, ive been using the drops and i have a feeling i could be off a bit.

There is definately something going on,, my mid rack is on week 6.5 and it is getting yellow... but the buds are off the hook.


On to a new subject: heres is a paragraph i found on killing spider mites...

"The use of tanked CO2 can facilitate the killing of spider mites and other pests. In true sealed grow rooms that have no leaks, growers can kill all pests by upping CO2 levels to 10,000 parts per million (ppm) for one hour. Other CO2 augmentation methods are incapable of generating 10,000 ppm for an hour ? only the tank supply method is capable of providing that concentration of CO2. Especially when using 10,000 ppm bug-killing tactics, growers must use safety methods that minimize the health problems that CO2 can cause for humans"

I think i might have some spider mites in my veg cabinet,,and i was going to try this method before i move them to flower...any thoughts?



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I found a product at the supermarket that works great
best solution I have found

You are a father again Stink!! Thank you for all your help in getting me the meds I need cheaper! The dispensaries are killing me in prices over here. I cannot thank you enough and everyone who participated here!



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Hi Y'all -

Have not seen anyone mention this, so try this-
Use Garden Hose w. QD to Connect to Pump

With hose-clamp connect regular piece of garden hose to screw in connector included supplied with the pump. Takes a little constructive violence (kinda tight) but it fits.

Then on sprayer frame, attach conversion pieces to get 1/2" sched 40 to garden hose thread. (Lowe's, Home depot, etc.)

Get garden hose, measure to size, attach QD to other size and voila, pump exchange and cleaning is as easy as1-2-3 - simple snap and release and lift out sprayer unit.

All together requires some careful planning, a few extra pieces and some precise measuring , but well worth it in the long run.
And once you figure out all the pieces it takes, it's piece of cake!!

deeweromekoms said:

Hi Y'all -

Have not seen anyone mention this, so try this-
Use Garden Hose w. QD to Connect to Pump

With hose-clamp connect regular piece of garden hose to screw in connector included supplied with the pump. Takes a little constructive violence (kinda tight) but it fits.

Then on sprayer frame, attach conversion pieces to get 1/2" sched 40 to garden hose thread. (Lowe's, Home depot, etc.)

Get garden hose, measure to size, attach QD to other size and voila, pump exchange and cleaning is as easy as1-2-3 - simple snap and release and lift out sprayer unit.

All together requires some careful planning, a few extra pieces and some precise measuring , but well worth it in the long run.
And once you figure out all the pieces it takes, it's piece of cake!!

Click to expand...

This connection - and all sorts of variations have been discussed - but heck, if ya can find 'em!

For the veg unit, I use 1/2" PVC with 1/2" MPT - these are known as nipple risers... screw one end directly into the pump, cut the other end to height and use a PVC quick coupler to join to the spray assembly.

For my flower units, I use 1/2" MPT car-flex tubing in 18" length to connect pump to the spray manifold via PVC quick coupler. (I use triple post variation of the Stink system)

And like you said - it works like a charm. Good call, Bra!

Ok so... My girls are in flowering and i have changed to flowering nutes and last night i had the ppm at about 950, (meant to be gradually raising the TDS slowly right?) and i have 4 days until i go away and need to have a ppm for my room mate to keep the water at, i suppose i can still talk to my mate everyday on the phone but should i raise it a bit quicker until they burn then drop it back? Also how long should it take for the tips to burn in the stinkbud setup? I know everything seems to happen rather quickly in this setup compared to dirt and was hoping it would be the same for nute burn? ? ?

Oh and another pic to wet everyones whistle!

Also i had trouble buying neoprene inserts so if anyone else is having trouble or want a cheap option all i did was buy some expansion joint(which comes in a roll) and is used in between the concrete in footpaths and things like that. Then i just cut them to size and a cut in the middle... essentially doing the same thing but its home made.

nice setup

Stinkbud,

It seems to me from my own experience that the larger the size of the nutrient container, the less likely to have large swings in pH and PPMs. Now a lot of stinkbuddies have space problems, but keeping the reservoir size as large as possible can keep some problems from getting out of hand so quickly. Your insight is appreciated.

420hydro said:

Stinkbud,

It seems to me from my own experience that the larger the size of the nutrient container, the less likely to have large swings in pH and PPMs. Now a lot of stinkbuddies have space problems, but keeping the reservoir size as large as possible can keep some problems from getting out of hand so quickly. Your insight is appreciated.

Click to expand...

I found that the smaller 10 gal units were good for veging and flowering uppers when used with an 18 gal res to moderates temp, ppm and level fluctuation caused by the very distraction of our endeavor.
Am curing my product that had to be cut at barely the full 9 weeks. I made so many mistakes that it may not be killer but next time! Better Genes!

Maybetomorrow said:

Ok so I run into a old friend and he takes me to his garden and shows me what he is working with. I can get clones of anything I want and as many as I want. Here's his line up

Dutch Passion - Power Plant, Per Plex

G-13 Labs - White widow, Northern Lights x skunk

And his own breeds along with some true Humboldt county strains.

Along with some Sour Diesel and what he calls true blue, or blue star which is true blueberry x Sensi Star.

The problem is that they are dirty with mites. What can I do to still get these plants minus the mites?

I think that some of these would be great to have in the SB system!

Click to expand...

Don't do it!!! And make sure you wash your shoes and clothes good if you visit his grow room. Best to stay far away.

Mites are by far the worst thing that can happen to you. Every experienced grower can tell you horror stories about mites.

DIRTHAWKER said:

OK so i went to the flower room this morning and saw that my controller said the co2 was at 690ppm...what??? my co2 disperses from the fan that i turned up from low to medium last night. That along with the sensor that i put up higher in the canopy managed to use about 3 days worth over night!


stink how do you do your co2? I know you have the tube running above the garden...is it on just the outside perimeter below the lights? where do you put your sensor? My co2 has always been dispersed from my fan which is on 24/7.....

im gonna figure this out one way or the other.

Click to expand...

My CO2 tubing runs along the shelf in my closet. It's about the same height as my lights.

A fan works just as well though...

Few Questions

I have four shop fluorescent lights, one with a grow bulb and the other three with stock bulbs. Can I just put two over the cloner and two over the veg system and call it good? Trying to save money where I can.

Flowering-3 600W HPS or 2 1000W HPS?
This is for THREE flowering systems

I finally finished all 639 pages!

I can't believe how helpful everyone has been, especially to us first timers.

I just wanted to let SB, andy, dirt, and everyone else know how much your work is appreciated, and how grateful we all are for you all for posting all the trials and tribulations you've faced along the way.


Thank you so much everyone!

Sorry if its not thread appropriate... but I was wondering if you could breifly tell me about how long it would take a healthy, rooted clone thats veging under 1000w MH, to grow large enough to produce about 20-30 clones itself... about to get started on my next run and I've never tried growing my own mother plant... buying the clones at bud shops is getting to be an expense i'd love to do away with...

-Mitus

Mitus said:

Sorry if its not thread appropriate... but I was wondering if you could breifly tell me about how long it would take a healthy, rooted clone thats veging under 1000w MH, to grow large enough to produce about 20-30 clones itself... about to get started on my next run and I've never tried growing my own mother plant... buying the clones at bud shops is getting to be an expense i'd love to do away with...

-Mitus

Click to expand...

Im able to get about 20 cuts from the normal 3 week veg..

Chef

Jack Sprat said:

I found that the smaller 10 gal units were good for veging and flowering uppers when used with an 18 gal res to moderates temp, ppm and level fluctuation caused by the very distraction of our endeavor.
Am curing my product that had to be cut at barely the full 9 weeks. I made so many mistakes that it may not be killer but next time! Better Genes!

Click to expand...

The bigger the better. If you have the space use the 18 gal containers. By the 9th week the plants use 2-3 gallons of water a day.

That much water use in a 10 gal res would shift the PPM and PH a lot. You would have to refill and check it twice a day.