H.A.F. growing stink-flowers in dirt with QB's

Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
H.A.F. said:
Yes! And I agree! I had to do a spreadsheet to keep it all straight. One uses it's own cal-mag, one is feed feed water, and I make RO water for it all LOL
I had a shelf full of different nutes, and I am trying to settle on one. I am not even looking for the "best, fattest, etc." if it costs a lot. I think the plant genetics plays more of a role than nutes for that. I'm looking for easy, reliable, and one that doesn't burn the hell out of the plants by the end.

No. I started with Fox Farms (like pretty much everyone), then I got their8-pack of additives like Microbe-Brew, Wholly Mackerel...
I got their Gringo Rasta 3-pack to try something different, and it was good. I got the Gen-Hydro dry nutes (Maxi-gro, Maxi-bloom...) on a recommendation and I like their ease fo use. Last, since it was a Dyna-gro contest I dropped $30 on their sample pack of nutes.

So I have
FF original Trio plus everything else on their soil feed chart,
FF Gringo-Rasta Trio (also used the FF crystals like Open Sesame and Beastie Blooms)
General Hydroponics dry nutes, and
Dyna-gro

Whatever looks best at the end wins, and the rest goes to feeding tomatoes ;)
Click to expand...
That's one hell of an experiment, I'm subbed so I'll be watching.
I use FFOF too with their trio but I've been thinking about trying other stuff. I have yet to manage start to finish without major deficiencies :roll:
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
That's one hell of an experiment, I'm subbed so I'll be watching.
I use FFOF too with their trio but I've been thinking about trying other stuff. I have yet to manage start to finish without major deficiencies :roll:
Click to expand...
My first is almost ready for harvest. All the previous have either had burnt leaves, or hermied so I had to harvest early. It is using the Gen Hydro nutes, but it's a clone, so I'm not taking that as empirical evidence. I think that the FF Trio just has too much sediment, and all the flushing in the world doesn't force that through the fabric pots. All 3 of the others I am using mix up clear with no sediment.
 
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H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Free weed!
I have foxtails starting on about half of the tops, and the other half must be all foxtail because they are still even looking but getting fatter.
IMG_8847.JPGHere's a closeup of what I mean. New calyxes are stacking in little mini-flowers on the buds. IMG_8834.JPG
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Here's a better "density" pic. I was counting on an ounce or two LOL.
I might get a 1/4-1/2oz off each of the 15 stems. I think the verdict is that vegging might in fact be overrated. I was skeptical, but this should easily meet my "ounce per pot gallon" standard.
I'm just starting to see a few amber trichomes, which amazes me since the first pistils have been brown for weeks.
It has been 46 days from flip, and 17 since the 1st brown pistil. Looking really close to the "hippie-harvest" rule of thumb about 21 days from the 1st brown.
IMG_8864.JPG
 
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H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Because of the success of the quick-flip on the clone, I am itching to flip this one, but it will probably keep crawling along until I chop the last clone in a few weeks. Since I probably have a month before it flips I am considering playing with this one.
IMG_8868.JPG
I have one limb that is slower than the rest, so I will just keep pruning it up until I flip. I also want to top one (biggest) soon and see what that does compared to the others, and on the remaining two I will keep one lower shoot (green) then keep pruning shoots above that until I flip. This shoot is facing the middle, and will be easy to lightly train to get light.
IMG_8872.JPG
I'm bored, so I may start today...
When I say "pruning" from here on out, I'll wait until the shoots I am snipping have about a 1/2 inch stem before I cut them.​
 
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H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
I actually did what I planned on doing, and here's the result.
IMG_8892.JPG
The one I topped is obvious, I just picked the one with the best (most even) 2 sprouts to top. the slow one is top left, and the red arrows are the 2 shoots I'll keep. I'll keep pruning shoots above those two until I flip.
IMG_8894.JPG
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
I was looking through close-up bud-porn to see trichome color, and I think I found a nanner starting. Hard to tell because it's just the tip, but not taking chances since I have so many plants going. I also get to put my room back to normal and stuff too...

Figured it was a matter of time, so I am putting coffee on and we'll see how close that 1-2oz pre-flip estimate was.
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
So far I have noticed extra density with QB's. Regardless of what else I do, even the little nugs are too dense to get chopped up in the bowl trimmer.
IMG_8905.JPG From chop to manicured I lost 114g, but most of that was trim, the stems were very skinny.
IMG_8907.JPG I could have taken a few more lower nugs off a few of those, and probably will when they dry. But this was all the "larf" ;)
IMG_8910.JPG See the tiny nugs? There were zero bud pieces in the bowl.
IMG_8911.JPG The nugs,
IMG_8912.JPG and the whole lot
IMG_8914.JPG Based on past similar harvests, it'll keep closer to 25% of it's weight. Tentatively that would be 78.5g, 2.8oz
IMG_8917.JPG
3 gallon pot,
93 days
(13 weeks)​
from snip
48 days (7 weeks) in flower,
3oz+ cured when you add the bubble hash.
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
All the buds were similar, but some were tighter than others so I left the lower nugs on.
But 3 oz divided by 15 tops is a 5g per top average. Not bad for a small plant.IMG_8921.JPG
For context I harvested 12oz and each bud averaged over 3/4 oz wet.
 
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H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
I've been busy. I up-potted about a dozen tomatoes this morning, harvested a plant in the evening, then cleaned and upgraded my veg-room
IMG_8922.JPG I have the lights at about half strength, and I'll gradually raise it over a day or two to 100%, then I'll start lowering it to about 18-20".
Mutt & Jeff (for you old-timers) are at exactly the same stage leaf wise, but the B.Banner is going to be a monster.
IMG_8924.JPG
And @morugawelder was wondering when I transplanted. This one is tomorrow. I don't like to let it get rootbound. There's a lot less transplant shock, because they just keep growing, but they will keep growing slow until the roots hit bottom. Once they do, there's no looking back.
IMG_8927.JPG
And for watering the seedlings, aside from the occasional misting on the leaves I just give a couple of sprays of water into the cracks on the side. When I pull the cup out to check roots, if there is no humidity on the sides of the cup it gets sprayed.
 
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H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
The Skywalker is showing roots too, but they are all hitting the sides of the cup up higher before heading south. I think that may be part of the growth difference between a sativa and indica - because it's usually taken longer for my indica roots to hit bottom. Definitely going to have to manifold that one just to keep it under control. But I'll probably do both, because :weed:
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
It's still gonna be a few days for the Skywalker, but the Hulk is transplanted. I pointed the seed leaves at the corners so each of the 4 tops will have more room to grow. Here's how I dealt with the long stem.
IMG_8930.JPG
I didn't water it but as I was adding the soil to the pot I sprayed it every few inches, and when I opened up each side of the cup it got a couple of sprays to help hold the soil together,
IMG_8933.JPG
So here's the new set-up.
IMG_8934.JPG
 
Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
Is that the 260watt dimmable you are using? I just bought a 135 watt kit, was wondering how high you keep the lights on seedlings
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
Is that the 260watt dimmable you are using? I just bought a 135 watt kit, was wondering how high you keep the lights on seedlings
Click to expand...
Yes, it has one dimmer screw. I dial it down when I first put them in, but I raise it fairly quick. I use light height more than dimming though. They were already under the HLG65w which is actually very bright and a higher "veg" spectrum, so it's not as drastic as switching from CFL's or something. I start with the light high, get the wattage up over a few days, then start lowering it. 18"-24 in veg.
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
Is that the 260watt dimmable you are using? I just bought a 135 watt kit, was wondering how high you keep the lights on seedlings
Click to expand...
Here's a better idea of the setup. I just went in to up the lights and they are already at 100%. Just moved them yesterday. But I have the light almost 3' above the plants for now.
IMG_8937.JPG
 
Tiflis

Tiflis

Well-Known Member
H.A.F. said:
Yes, it has one dimmer screw. I dial it down when I first put them in, but I raise it fairly quick. I use light height more than dimming though. They were already under the HLG65w which is actually very bright and a higher "veg" spectrum, so it's not as drastic as switching from CFL's or something. I start with the light high, get the wattage up over a few days, then start lowering it. 18"-24 in veg.
Click to expand...
I see, I shall play it on the safe side. 3 autos just hit the dirt, I'll keep the light 24-36"away . Thank you
 
H.A.F.

H.A.F.

Well-Known Member
Tiflis said:
I see, I shall play it on the safe side. 3 autos just hit the dirt, I'll keep the light 24-36"away . Thank you
Click to expand...
For starters yes, but auto's are way different and you only have "X" amount of time before they are done. I would lean towards more light sooner, and getting it to your preferred height soon. What light schedule are you running?
 
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