Growth looks strong but...brown spots????

Hi everybody ,

Looks like these spots have started popping out 2 days ago... (the white powder is just lime)

can it be nutes def related to a low ph?
It s always been low (5.5) , i m putting up a struggle to get it right

250w hps , temp around 81-82° and humidity 40-50 rh light cicle ,73° and 70-80 rh dark cicle .
2 ml biogrow and bioheaven per litre of tap water plus once a week algamic 1ml as foilar spray.

To be honest i m not that worried coz they are growing fast (3 weeks old and the first 1 week spent outdoor) but it may lead to complications may not ?

thanks in advance , 1st time grower

I have been working through the same issue on 1 strain all others are fine. it kind of looks like little rust spots on mine. I calibrated my pen and the PH was a bit high. If i can see a difference in the new growth i'll let you know, It looks like we have the same problem though

looks like you should throw in some cal mag.
what does your nute shcedule look like

2 ml biogrow , 2 ml bioheaven , 1 ml algamic

Reallz said:

I have been working through the same issue on 1 strain all others are fine. it kind of looks like little rust spots on mine. I calibrated my pen and the PH was a bit high. If i can see a difference in the new growth i'll let you know, It looks like we have the same problem though

Click to expand...

every since i corrected the ph the issue seems to have gone away.

Update:
They re so growing but the brown patches are getting worse , looks like the leaves whithering and dying . Luckily there are only a couple.
Today ive switched to the flowering phase.

3ml biogrow , 3ml bioheaven, 1ml topmax , 2ml bio bloom, 1ml algamic.
Furthermore i pumped in some minerals (0,5% B, 1,5% CU, 4,0% Fe, 4,0% Mn, 0,1% Mo, 1,5% Zn)

temp around 83 and 40% rh

any ideas ?

By the way... the tips of the new leaves are yellowish can it be they were to close to the light?

Here's a handy chart that may help: http://i.imgur.com/PFIqR.jpg

HappyDragon91 said:

Update:
They re so growing but the brown patches are getting worse , looks like the leaves whithering and dying . Luckily there are only a couple.
Today ive switched to the flowering phase.

3ml biogrow , 3ml bioheaven, 1ml topmax , 2ml bio bloom, 1ml algamic.
Furthermore i pumped in some minerals (0,5% B, 1,5% CU, 4,0% Fe, 4,0% Mn, 0,1% Mo, 1,5% Zn)

temp around 83 and 40% rh

any ideas ?

By the way... the tips of the new leaves are yellowish can it be they were to close to the light?

Click to expand...

rusty spots might be because of MG deficiency. Overferting starts showing off at the leaf tips. Plant looks beautiful, do not give up. I suppose you use biobloom from biobizz? I would quit giving biobloom and stay only with biogrow. This was my mistake on my C99 and SLH grow. I've lost a lot of leaves, got P excess etc. Also P excess blocks trace element uptake, causes stretching during first 3-4 weeks of flowering. Once I started using ONLY biogrow, bought aptus camg-boost and some seaweed, deficiencies stopped but with that little foliage plant harvested very little. got 36g from C99(7week veg and 8week flower). But happy, cause the lesson learned - not to use any high P foods, try to keep foliage all the way through the grow. Also unless you are growing hydro, PH is a very rare thing to happen in soil/soiless medium.

So far it looks like your plant needs 3ml per liter of biogrow, some little quantities of trace elements, 1ml/L camg boost with every watering and that's it.
Do not over do it.

Good luck!

simisimis said:

So far it looks like your plant needs 3ml per liter of biogrow, some little quantities of trace elements, 1ml/L camg boost with every watering and that's it.
Do not over do it.

Good luck!

Click to expand...

thx man i m gonna purchase that camg product give it a go and cut down some nutes.
About the P , yh after all i ve put them in flow stage today so i guess they dont rlly need it yet, even if it was my first time i ever fed them with bio bloom so i dont expect them being on an excess of P at the moment...

I ll let you know , thx again

HappyDragon91 said:

Update:
They re so growing but the brown patches are getting worse , looks like the leaves whithering and dying . Luckily there are only a couple.
Today ive switched to the flowering phase.

3ml biogrow , 3ml bioheaven, 1ml topmax , 2ml bio bloom, 1ml algamic.
Furthermore i pumped in some minerals (0,5% B, 1,5% CU, 4,0% Fe, 4,0% Mn, 0,1% Mo, 1,5% Zn)

temp around 83 and 40% rh

any ideas ?

By the way... the tips of the new leaves are yellowish can it be they were to close to the light?

Click to expand...

Looking at the pictures I see what could be a bunch of white residue in your runoff "trays". Excess nutes may be causing this. Some of the leaves in the full plant picture seem to be losing that texture of a healthy leaf. I have had/have this problem myself at times and it seems to be attributed to overfertilizing and overwatering.

High percentages of nutes in your soil does not always come out as burnt, spots sometimes it will give you weird leaf mutations like I seen in some of your pics. That could just be the genetics of the plant, but it looked like your soil is hot for sure. I would flush with pure water and just kind of start over with the nutes brother. I think you have a good basic understanding of what you're doing now, you just need to give your plants a chance to give you what you want. out.

GandalfdaGreen said:

Looking at the pictures I see what could be a bunch of white residue in your runoff "trays". Excess nutes may be causing this. Some of the leaves in the full plant picture seem to be losing that texture of a healthy leaf.

Click to expand...

the white residue is garden lime , i had to do a hell of a correction last week coz ph was very very low , now it s fine .

mycomaster said:

High percentages of nutes in your soil does not always come out as burnt, spots sometimes it will give you weird leaf mutations like I seen in some of your pics. That could just be the genetics of the plant

Click to expand...

it s its genetic , that applejack is always been mottled since sprouting

mycomaster said:

I would flush with pure water and just kind of start over with the nutes brother

Click to expand...

what about waiting the next watering instead of flushing now? just water nothing else, but in a few days or a week time??

do you do any foliage feeding? when you water, you sure you did not splash some water with nutes on the leaves?

also have a look at this link. this is a 'must have' thing in your bookmarks, or on a paper in the nutes shelf
http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm

simisimis said:

do you do any foliage feeding? when you water, you sure you did not splash some water with nutes on the leaves?

Click to expand...

i dont , hum yh it s already happened the lowest leaves got submerged with water.... why ?

I ve got a question about flushing the soil .
Recognized the soil is hot , is it better to flush it as soon as possible or next time you water use no nutes at all ?

HappyDragon91 said:

i dont , hum yh it s already happened the lowest leaves got submerged with water.... why ?

I ve got a question about flushing the soil .
Recognized the soil is hot , is it better to flush it as soon as possible or next time you water use no nutes at all ?

Click to expand...

the reason I've been asking whether any of water splashed on leaves cause that might be the reason what burned the plants.
But also you have been trying to fix ph with lime. Lime is calcium. And excess of calcium locks out the mg. Here are description of mg def.

Magnesium (Mg) Deficiency

Magnesium deficiency is common indoors. Lower and later middle leaves develop yellow patches between darker green veins and rusty brown spots on leaf margins, tips and between veins. Leaf tips usually curl upward before dying. The entire plant could discolor in a few weeks and if severe, turn a yellow / whitish tinge before browning and dying. Minor deficiencies can escalate and cause a diminished harvest.

It is often in soil but unavailable because soil is too wet / cold or acidic / cold. And excess of K, ammonia (nitrogen) and calcium (carbonate) bind Mg in soil. Small root systems are unable to take in enough Mg to supply heavy demand. A high EC slows water evaporation and diminishes Mg availability.

•Inter-veinal yellowing, irregular rust-brown spots on older leaves
•Leaf tips turn brown and curl upwards
•Rust-brown spots multiply and inter-veinal yellowing increases
•Spots and yellowing envelop entire plant
•Leaves dry and die in extreme cases

IMO your plants are dark green, that indicates that plant has more N than it needs. I think it is not necessary to flush since flushing can cause a lot of stress and leaves are not bended or cupped showing more serious N toxicity.. try reduce nutes. in half I would say and then increase gradually as the plant will get brighter healthy green. So solve mg def you either need epsom salt or camg boost..
You should not worry that much about ph since soil has a buffer and ph problems are very rare in soil. That would be my 2 cents..