GROwMans 8 plant closet/ attic grow

growman3666

Well-Known Member
thank you all
pictures tommorow



Went out today to repot some smaller ones
most seedlings unfortunately baked for 2 weeks without water,
id say about 13 of 25


my 3 week olders are doing wonderful and one i can see a pistil i dont know if these would be preflowers from maturity or entering the flowering stage early?
have about 6 or 7 of them




Big females trichs are clear and straight up
id say about 2 or three more weeks left of growing,
shes gonna be beeeeffyyy
pistils turning all different colors
smells very skunky
its almost like straight dank
cant explian it but its different
 

peacemane420

Well-Known Member
wow they are growing so fast man!! lookin beautiful!!!
good luck! i hope they all turn out amazing

these are all bagseed right?
 

stillhigh

Well-Known Member
damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn!!!!! lol shit lookin good gman im jealous lol.... i got a question why everytime i grow(bagseed) my plants flower everywhere and when i look on this site like yours for example its grows to 1 clump. bud all the way down, instead of budding all over the plant. i cant seem to figure that out i love when it grows like yours is growing. mutherfucka look like a shrub lol. good shit tho i give you rep after i rep some other ppl u know the rep process it sucks lol
 

growman3666

Well-Known Member
damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn!!!!! lol shit lookin good gman im jealous lol.... i got a question why everytime i grow(bagseed) my plants flower everywhere and when i look on this site like yours for example its grows to 1 clump. bud all the way down, instead of budding all over the plant. i cant seem to figure that out i love when it grows like yours is growing. mutherfucka look like a shrub lol. good shit tho i give you rep after i rep some other ppl u know the rep process it sucks lol


hahah thanks brotha,

to answer your question,
its all about light penetration and nutrients,
i tied these babies down for the first 4 weeks in flowering allowing the sun to hit the lower buds directly on
in the next two weeks i expect them to almost double,
indoors this is way harder to do because nothing is like the sun
 

stillhigh

Well-Known Member
Duhh im a dumbass i remember you telling me a while back to try tying down my plants... But when do i tie them down and......well whats the process? Lol
 

stillhigh

Well-Known Member
I use fox farm bloom and plant juice is that all for nutes. I got like 5 lights goin on in my closet shit lookin like a ufo when i open the door lol bright as fuck. When can i start flowering im setting up shop for 10 white widow. And dont wanna fuck it up im asking you cause all your shit looks correct and your buds are amazing lol
 

growman3666

Well-Known Member
A complete guide to topping, training and pruning






Topping


Topping the plant means that you remove the main shoot located on the stem. By doing so you will encourage the plant to grow into a bush with a lot of shoots, instead of one big main shoot that you get on the untopped “christmas tree”.

The reason why the plant behaves this way is because the center of growth control, the auxin transport system, is located in the main shoot apex. Sensory pigments in the leafs inform the plant of various things like how much light a leaf at a certain location gets and so on, which then enables the plant to transport energy and growth hormones to various areas.

The mechanism behind the auxin transport system is quite complex, involving various messenger molecules, growth hormones and specific proteins that trigger everything from vegetative growth to flowering in the plant. Some aspects of this mechanism are still unknown and under scientific research. What is known however is that the centre of control for this mechanism is located in the main shoot apex and that it also relies on information from the sensory pigments located in the leafs.

By removing the main shoot, the communication between the leafs and main shoot ends and the result is that the plant assigns the next shoots in line to the job. This means that the smaller shoots on the node beneath the cut starts growing faster and gain height. These shoots usually grow very slowly when the plant is left untopped.





Most of the time this transition is quite fast but some plants that respond poorly to topping might have stunted growth for a while. It is possible to top a plant many times, each time the number of main shoots will double. Give your plants some time to grow before you top them, if they are topped to early they might get stunted for a while. I do top them quite early sometimes as you can probably tell from the pictures that I have included. Go by your feeling, once the plants look strong enough you can start topping and training them.




This is a good way of training the plant if one wants to make the most out of the space available. Topping is also a good way of slowing down plants that tend to stretch a lot, as each time the plant is topped it will redirect energy to a greater number of shoots. The new shoots will never grow as large as the untopped main shoot will but they will most likely produce a larger crop.





(Credit to the original creator of this picture)​

There is also a technique called FIM (Fuck I Missed) topping. By leaving a small portion of the growth on the main shoot intact, the plant will for some reason assume that four shoots, instead of two, are the main shoots and they will grow evenly in height. The success of this method is usually up to the luck of the draw but you should make the cut circular so that the remaining tissue forms a “cup”. The same result can however be achieved by topping the plant twice.





Here are some plants in various stages of training.​



Training


Topping the plant is only the first step in the process of training a plant for a super sized crop. After the plant has been topped many times over and starts to gain size, it is time to start training it.

It is not necessary to top the plant in order to start the training. Some people prefer to leave the plant untopped and tie down the main shoot at ground level instead. This will have the same effect as topping it because once again, the auxin transport system located in the main shoot will dictate how the plant grows. When the main shoot is tied down, all shoots above it will grow more rapidly as the plant now assumes that these are the main shoots.



Training the plant is this way is called Low Stress Training or LST. As long as the main shoot is kept lower than the surrounding branches, they will grow rapidly in height.

These diagrams, originally posted by big_buddha, give a good picture of what I am talking about. These are excellent diagrams so many thanks to the creator.






It is possible to keep tying down each new branch as it grows, which will result in a plant that grows into a dense bush. LST training combined with topping can be a very effective way of creating a plant that makes use of all the available space. The trick here is to top the plant at each new node and to keep the internodes as short as possible. Training the plant in this manner takes some time and there is no way to reach good results by being in a hurry. As you can see, the plant in this picture has been both topped and trained. If you look closely you can see where the branches have been tied to the pot.




There are many ways to train a plant, each plant requires a slightly different treatment. The goal is however to get a plant that looks like the one in the picture above. Once that plant goes into flowering it will have many branches with many nodes, you can probably see what I mean. Once the bush gains size and starts to stretch, you will have to start pruning it carefully and wisely.

Just to demonstrate how differently plants can be trained, here are some pictures of plants in early training. All of them were topped first. By training a plant you can also slow down the stretch, especially in tropical sativas.




This Oldtimer’s Haze was stretching a lot and had quite long internodes so I topped it and trained it to grow around itself and eventually it grew into a sphere.





This Kali Mist plant did not like to be topped so I tried to slow it down by tying down the branches vertically. In the end this plant preferred a few main colas so I stopped the training shortly after. Some plants will resist any attempts of training and respond poorly when you try. These plants will probably yield more when left untopped.




Here is an example of a Ingemar’s Punch plant that went through some serious LST training. This plant resembles a creeper vine more than a bush. Here the goal was to keep the plant as low as possible but usually the plant is allowed to grow in size and height so that it produces a larger crop. This example however illustrates the possibilities when it comes to training. Remember that even if your grow room is limited in height, you are not restricted to growing solely lowryders or other strains that stay low, as any plant can be trained to grow in any manner or form. This opens up possibilities for stealthy cab and pc grows. All you have to to is reserve some time for the training during veg and perhaps you will have to continue the training during flowering as well, like in the example above. Anything is possible.




Scrogging





Scrogging, or Screen of Green means that you suspend a net over the plants and allow them to grow through it. This makes it easier to separate the growing branches so that they cover the entire area of the grow room. The scrog net also provides support as the buds can often become so heavy that that the branches cannot support them any more and break under the weight. Thereby the scrog net also removes the need for noisy fans, used to make the stems stronger through the waving effect. Personally never use fans due to limited space.

I usually train the plants for up to three months before flipping the switch, which means that they are thick stemmed and quite large in size. Although plants can be kept very low with training, my aim is to grow large and busy plants that produce the maximum amount of buds. Due to the long vegetative period, the plants are strong and healthy with an abundance of bud sites.

I try to keep the canopy even by topping the plants that stretch more but sometimes it is impossible, especially when growing both indicas and sativas at the same time. One has to adjust according to the plants and direct longer branches to the corners of the grow room, sometimes the only option is to tie the branches horizontally so that they are resting on the scrog net. This can be a strange sight as the buds keep growing vertically out of the side of the flower.

The basic idea is that the training should be complete by the time the plants start flowering and grow through the net. Sometimes a second scrog net is necessary higher up if the plants need further support.

There are also different methods when it comes to scrogging, some people tilt the net so that one side is higher than the other, as this provides a greater surface area for the buds.

Some of the LST and other techniques mentioned here can also be applied to the "Sea of Green" or SOG method of growing, where many small plants are grown instead of a few larger ones for a quick and bountiful harvest. This method is a good alternative for smaller growrooms. Plants should not be topped when using the SOG method as the idea here is to harvest the main cola from a whole bunch of smaller plants and topping them will only slow them down. Although the smaller plants can be trained using these methods, it is probably better to just grow more plants instead for a maximized crop.



Pruning





When the plant is left to grow as it chooses, it usually has more branches than it has the energy to support. This means that a lot of energy is wasted on smaller branches, especially the lower ones. The energy need is so spread out that in extreme cases flowering takes a very long time as the plant tries to supply energy evenly to every location. By removing some of the less important and weaker branches, you can ensure that the larger branches produce a greater amount of high quality bud. The bud on the lower branches that receive less light usually end up as single “pop corn” buds that never truly mature, so it is best to remove them at an early stage. You become the “investment planner” for you plants. Observe the growth and remove any branch that has long internodes (the space between the nodes) and any branch that stays significantly lower than the main shoots. These branches will get very little light and they will also have a hard time to find they way up to the well lit area. Most of the time I end up removing almost all the growth underneath the scrog net, I only leave the fan leafs intact until the plant drops them by itself after the energy has been recovered.

When it comes to removing leaf material opinions vary, some remove leafs and others, like myself, chose not to. I have tried both methods and can honestly say that there is no positive effect really from removing leafs. Keep in mind that fan leafs are the primary location for photosynthesis and that the plant also stores surplus energy in them. By removing the leafs you do double harm, you handicap the plants ability to produce vital energy and you also remove the energy that has already been stored for future use. Furthermore, although it cannot be observed with the naked eye, light actually passes through the leafs and that is why some of the lower leafs stay green throughout the entire grow. It is better to tuck or tie the leafs under the canopy so that light reaches more bud sites, or alternatively cut the leafs in half. Since most of the photosynthetic activity takes place in the fan leafs, the buds themselves do not need light, in other words, bud sites are activated by light when it hits the node but the energy is produced and transported to the buds from the leafs. This is where a scrog net also comes in handy, you can tie down the leafs without removing them and thereby allow more light to reach the buds while no energy is lost.

Topping and training is also a good way to keep mother plants from growing too large. There are several good threads on how to keep bonsai moms on this forum so I will not venture further into that topic.

The combination of all the techniques described here always gives me the best result. I have tried growing plants in every possible manner, and topping, training and pruning produces the largest crops by far. All grow rooms are different and so are each strain of cannabis, in fact, every plant is different, so you will have to try out what works best for you but I hope that this guide at least gave you an idea of what my method is.
 

growman3666

Well-Known Member
Update.


Lsted a lot of the plants and topped all
gave biggest some grow big yesterday


Some little guys



2 days after LST



Plot 1









I found a good spot


Big Female



 

red420neck

Well-Known Member
aw man! there doin real good! i just had four plants stolen. but my big female is still alive and doing good. hows it goin?
 

blazedklown

Well-Known Member
damn red your the second person that has had their plants stolen. thats fucked up ppl r greedy sond of bitches
 

peacemane420

Well-Known Member
nice information!!! that was pretty useful... i emailed it to my mom cuz shes growin now too! but shes lucky! she lives in the woods in the middle of nowhere so she has ten plants growin right now. im so jealous.

i love bagseed! they always are so fun. ive gotten some bombass bud from them.... =)
they all are lookin healthy! that big momma is doin divine!
 

growman3666

Well-Known Member
aw man! there doin real good! i just had four plants stolen. but my big female is still alive and doing good. hows it goin?

thanks bro,
damn thats some bullshit
buy a goose and stick it by your plants, they will never come back
haha


nice information!!! that was pretty useful... i emailed it to my mom cuz shes growin now too! but shes lucky! she lives in the woods in the middle of nowhere so she has ten plants growin right now. im so jealous.

i love bagseed! they always are so fun. ive gotten some bombass bud from them.... =)
they all are lookin healthy! that big momma is doin divine!
lol yea its good info
you should gorrila grow in the woods
big mamas boomin
all others are responding to lst very well
 

growman3666

Well-Known Member
a goose? haha i was thinkin a bobcat on a long chain. how was that bud you clipped? dried yet?

which bud bro?
the one from two weeks ago?
if so it was my 420 nug lol it was premature but got me a soaring high
hahah a bobcat would be scared and a goose would attack a motherfucker
specially if its got eggs
 

blazedklown

Well-Known Member
hell yea i seen that on jorge's video they'll deff fuck someone up lmao couls always get croc by crocky talk with steve irwins wife
 

stillhigh

Well-Known Member
i say set a bear trap and wait till you hear a scream go outside shootem and feed them to wolves lol
 

red420neck

Well-Known Member
haha. i know where some are in my hood. butttt im not bout to steal a bird and get attacked. ill go with the bear trap and gun :]
 
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