Growing Sativa Under Cfls

mugan

Well-Known Member
i drenched the roots in water with lime before i transplanted (not dust lol) , i just attached the pics (too medicated to do imageshack again lol)
 

growone

Well-Known Member
i see the pics now, proxy i use sometimes doesn't show all the pics
nice transplant log! you detailed that well - some transplant shock is not unusual
the plant in the middle looks real good
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
now al wait al try to take them out side as much as i can, besides i think i need more light for the plant to need that 5 gall
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
BAD news i lost the other two, after transplanting they looked fine but today morning i woke up and one was crispy i d k what happened the other i is stiff fine but the leaves are droopy, i checked them for mites and water log i d k whats up i think its because i broke the root ball, one is still fine in fact its doing great, its out side as i clean the grow room just in case it is pests. I need your help keeping this last one alive for 6 weeks or so, all is not lost i have 4 new seedlings and the clone from this lady al do it correctly this time no transplanting while flowering ( al make another thread for those soon) mean while HELP!!! :( :( :(
 

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growone

Well-Known Member
thi sis very disappointing - not sure what did these plants in
my guess it was the transplant, probably the soil - or something in the soil
you mentioned wood ash, which can be good, but can burn easily if used too freely - a little goes a long ways
but it tough to tell for sure, did the leaves curl and brown? if so, that often means too much nutrient of some kind
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
e dead leaves tomorrow there curled alright ( i know this is newb que but i thought wood ash only gives trace minerals and changes the ph ?)
 

growone

Well-Known Member
e dead leaves tomorrow there curled alright ( i know this is newb que but i thought wood ash only gives trace minerals and changes the ph ?)
that's kind of true, good source of trace minerals
mostly, wood ash is potassium carbonate, and is a very concentrated source of potassium
and it will raise PH sharply, if you use enough - it's all about how much used
i've used it from time to time, dissolve 1 tbsp in 1/2 gallon of water - which raised my water's PH from 6.2 to 6.5 or so
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
ouch i put about 1 part to 10 parts in my soil :( , but how come the big lady is not complaining
 

growone

Well-Known Member
ouch i put about 1 part to 10 parts in my soil :( , but how come the big lady is not complaining
the plant we love has its mysteries, some plants very touchy, others not so much
1 part in 10 sounds 'hot', but i don't know what proportion of soil/ash is recommended
and it could have been a other factors at work, working out your soil mix is a fine art
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
a little hard here i have to de every thing from raw matts, it like i need a phd in botany biology and micro biology lolz. next round al try and use the mix for making garden loam
 

growone

Well-Known Member
a little hard here i have to de every thing from raw matts, it like i need a phd in botany biology and micro biology lolz. next round al try and use the mix for making garden loam
many have this experience with soil, doing it from the basic ingredients gives you the power to make all kind of growing mediums
it is a harder way to get started with growing, but i bet your 2nd batch of soil will be better than your first
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
:cry::cry::cry: hopefully i hate being dry, and i like growing my own so i kno its not full other shit ( weed here they put leaves :( like wtf mate )
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
well it all looks good now the second plant looks better ( good enough to save the top bud but it will be flowering much longer than expected i bet) the other one is doing great the buds have really picked up and i guess its the home stretch, i had a lil mite problem but some neem extract daily and home made organic insecticide ( pepper, onions, garlic, organic soap) did the trick i see no more eggs and no brown specs on the new leaves, ( the buds are of the larger plant and the other pic is the other surviving plant ( looks small but its actually close to 3ft)
 

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growone

Well-Known Member
if Kenyan mites are anything like mites in the USA, do not count on them being all gone
you may have gotten rid of them, but they can spring back(from the eggs)
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
ohh well am not gonna stop al just keep spraying it down every day, i also herd that spidy mites get immunity to what you use quick, hopefully thats not 4 weeks lolz
 

growone

Well-Known Member
ohh well am not gonna stop al just keep spraying it down every day, i also herd that spidy mites get immunity to what you use quick, hopefully thats not 4 weeks lolz
i've heard that too, they are relentless little devils
the most convincing treatment i've heard is dunking, plant is flipped(with soil held in somehow), then immersed completely in a pail of the insecticide for about a minute or so
haven't tried it, and there seems potential for disaster(dropped plant etc.), but sounds like an effective treatment
 

Dr.Nick

Active Member
I grow sativa under CFLs, the trick is to use small pots, lots of LST, and recently I've had success with topping to keep them short and growing in an "X" pattern. It's working well so far, if you have any more specific questions PM me.

Dr. Nick

*Also, for the mites try imidacloprid granules, the pesticide enters the plant and kills any bugs feeding for up to like three months. It's reported to be food-safe too.
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
I grow sativa under CFLs, the trick is to use small pots, lots of LST, and recently I've had success with topping to keep them short and growing in an "X" pattern. It's working well so far, if you have any more specific questions PM me.

Dr. Nick

*Also, for the mites try imidacloprid granules, the pesticide enters the plant and kills any bugs feeding for up to like three months. It's reported to be food-safe too.
LOlz i don't have access to name brand insecticides here ( un less in big quantities) , as for the sats under cfl ( how long do you usually veg them. am starting a new grow and i wan every thing to go perfect al lst and maybe find an optimal pot size maybe about 1.5 -2 gal
 

Dr.Nick

Active Member
The last one I vegged about eight weeks, but it took longer because the topping halted growth for a week. The first time I grew Sativa I used 1-gallon size pots, but I had more germinate than I expected so I had one that was left in the 1/2 gallon starter pot and it grew to be the same size as the others, so this last grow I left them in the starter containers (cut off milk jugs) and so far it looks like I'm going to have at least as large a yield. Also this time, I used a 50/50 mix of 2700k and 6500k cfl's for the whole grow (last time I changed from 6500k's to 2700k's when I went to 12/12) and my plants look better this time. My grow box is really short so I've got to do anything I can to keep my plants from hitting the lights, and doing it this way I've been able to keep my plants from getting more than 12 inches above the rim of the pots. If they were stretched out they'd probably be close to 3 feet, but that length is kept horizontal rather than vertical. Oh, and I've found for LST twine and clothespins work really well. I tie the the branch loosely with a surgeons knot (an overhand knot with an extra go round) and then pull it down towards the edge of the pot and clip it (the string) in place with the clothespin. This way you can adjust the strings without undoing anything.

Good luck - Dr.Nick
 

mugan

Well-Known Member
kewl beanz, well am to late for LST,, am just gonna let this one go for the next 4 weeks, out side , am starting a journal soon maybe you and growone could join to help me a long ( still potting newb) you have been a lot of help, and BTW do you folior feed?? if so do you have to take em out or you do it in the box how does that work out >???
 
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