I'm just n old stoner47
Active Member
after I have put the baby in separate containers,, cause they were getting tall,, should
I start with 1st Grow week nutrients ???
I start with 1st Grow week nutrients ???
grow solution
- Thread starter I'm just n old stoner47
- Start date
budsfordayz
Well-Known Member
What kinda medium is that? What are you planning on feeding it? What kind of light are they under? All factors to consider to andwer your question.
But regardless id give then plain water until those leaves get abit bigger and the 3 finger serrated leafs appear. Ud be suprised how long they can live healthy just water.
These babies are developing strong roots right now then they will grow up top. Dont rush the feedings it wont speed things up yet.
But regardless id give then plain water until those leaves get abit bigger and the 3 finger serrated leafs appear. Ud be suprised how long they can live healthy just water.
These babies are developing strong roots right now then they will grow up top. Dont rush the feedings it wont speed things up yet.
I'm just n old stoner47
Active Member
ok,, I apprecate it,, i'm using Black Gold soil for now when they get bigger for the 1st wk of Grow,, when I do start the grow,, I will b usen Fox farm n right now . I have a T5 grow light 2 ft 24 w ,, which I have used in the past thru the Grow cycle,,, n i'm tryn to figure out if i'm going to use LED or T5's for flowering,, I don't have enough money to use HID setup 
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
If using FF do not use nutes for at least 2-3 weeks. Closer to 3 than 2.ok,, I apprecate it,, i'm using Black Gold soil for now when they get bigger for the 1st wk of Grow,, when I do start the grow,, I will b usen Fox farm n right now . I have a T5 grow light 2 ft 24 w ,, which I have used in the past thru the Grow cycle,,, n i'm tryn to figure out if i'm going to use LED or T5's for flowering,, I don't have enough money to use HID setup
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
Haunt sales pages wherever you are. Search for grow lights. Also check for used high bay shop lights. They’re usually 400 watt HPS. The orange lights in parking garages and airplane hangars. Being replaced everywhere with LED. They’re usually cheap and come with a working bulb.ok,, I apprecate it,, i'm using Black Gold soil for now when they get bigger for the 1st wk of Grow,, when I do start the grow,, I will b usen Fox farm n right now . I have a T5 grow light 2 ft 24 w ,, which I have used in the past thru the Grow cycle,,, n i'm tryn to figure out if i'm going to use LED or T5's for flowering,, I don't have enough money to use HID setup
The ballast is attached like the 315CMH or the DE HPS. Heavier than hell. Separate it from the reflector. Then using 12/3 or 10/3 copper cable connect them. The ballast gets hot so you can put enough cable to keep the ballast totally away from your grow. Offer $50 at most.
mustbetribbin
Well-Known Member
@I'm just n old stoner47
Hi Friend, I was just wondering which color temp/kelvin did you go with on the fluorescent light bulbs that you are using?
I find that 6500k bulbs emit too much blue, which can lead to stretching in seedlings, I would choose something around 4000k-5000k for vegging w/ flouros, but also I wouldn't use fluorescent entirely by itself for seedlings, I use anywhere from 7-40 watt incandescent bulbs to supplement extra light into my seedling/clone cabinet, really helps them grow a stronger stem and the added Red light really can help balance the leaf nodes and produce a tighter stacking seedling/seedlings and enhance their chances of survival, I've noticed enhanced growth from using a mixture of fluorescent bulbs 2700-5000k bulbs and added a 60watt incandescent, I noticed faster growth on intermediate sized plants also, better than the growth I saw using fluorescent by itself.
I fancy the 4100k bulbs personally for younger plants and seedlings, not to warm, not too cool, kind of inbetween and the plants can be kept closer proximity to the light because of lessened blue light and added green found in the 4100k, blue light can bombard your plants and interfere with achieving a balanced spectrum, blue light traveling at higher frequency can overwhelm
the photorecepters within the plants leaves, causing elongation and smaller leaves and fragility to the plant.
Red light is what you need add to the spectrum of mostly blue and green light, both red and far red are necessary for optimal seed germination, seeds still germinate without it, but it is not optimized to have low light conditions around lifeforms who's over 90-95% of their energy is accumulated through the abundance of light they are given, they don't survive without light, so why on earth would allowing their source of light to be disrupted at a seedlings earliest stage, be ideal? It isn't and never will be.
Mostly just wanted to reach out and help you understand why your seedling growth is not ideal or close to it so far, and the reason I am seeing impaired growth is because just too much blue, not enough red, 2700k fluorescent can help balance the spectrum some, but I've found that incandescent having 100% cri produces better results than using nothing but fluorescent does, over abundance of nothing but fluorescent light can cause over saturation of UV light also and cause stunted growth in young plants also, so it's better to have a mixture of light instead of one sole technology that is supposedly more advanced than the other age old technology's, a seedlings need for delicate/gentle balanced lighting is not going away, it is imperative that we understand the roles that each end of the color spectrum play during the lifespan of a plant to reach further towards an ideal growing environment that we all hope to achieve in order to produce adequate and potent medicine that most of us home growers strive for.
Here is a link that might be helpful.
www.frontiersin.org
Cheers.
Hi Friend, I was just wondering which color temp/kelvin did you go with on the fluorescent light bulbs that you are using?
I find that 6500k bulbs emit too much blue, which can lead to stretching in seedlings, I would choose something around 4000k-5000k for vegging w/ flouros, but also I wouldn't use fluorescent entirely by itself for seedlings, I use anywhere from 7-40 watt incandescent bulbs to supplement extra light into my seedling/clone cabinet, really helps them grow a stronger stem and the added Red light really can help balance the leaf nodes and produce a tighter stacking seedling/seedlings and enhance their chances of survival, I've noticed enhanced growth from using a mixture of fluorescent bulbs 2700-5000k bulbs and added a 60watt incandescent, I noticed faster growth on intermediate sized plants also, better than the growth I saw using fluorescent by itself.
I fancy the 4100k bulbs personally for younger plants and seedlings, not to warm, not too cool, kind of inbetween and the plants can be kept closer proximity to the light because of lessened blue light and added green found in the 4100k, blue light can bombard your plants and interfere with achieving a balanced spectrum, blue light traveling at higher frequency can overwhelm
the photorecepters within the plants leaves, causing elongation and smaller leaves and fragility to the plant.
Red light is what you need add to the spectrum of mostly blue and green light, both red and far red are necessary for optimal seed germination, seeds still germinate without it, but it is not optimized to have low light conditions around lifeforms who's over 90-95% of their energy is accumulated through the abundance of light they are given, they don't survive without light, so why on earth would allowing their source of light to be disrupted at a seedlings earliest stage, be ideal? It isn't and never will be.
Mostly just wanted to reach out and help you understand why your seedling growth is not ideal or close to it so far, and the reason I am seeing impaired growth is because just too much blue, not enough red, 2700k fluorescent can help balance the spectrum some, but I've found that incandescent having 100% cri produces better results than using nothing but fluorescent does, over abundance of nothing but fluorescent light can cause over saturation of UV light also and cause stunted growth in young plants also, so it's better to have a mixture of light instead of one sole technology that is supposedly more advanced than the other age old technology's, a seedlings need for delicate/gentle balanced lighting is not going away, it is imperative that we understand the roles that each end of the color spectrum play during the lifespan of a plant to reach further towards an ideal growing environment that we all hope to achieve in order to produce adequate and potent medicine that most of us home growers strive for.
Here is a link that might be helpful.
Frontiers | Phytochrome A Mediates Blue-Light Enhancement of Second-Positive Phototropism in Arabidopsis
Hypocotyl phototropism of etiolated Arabidopsis seedlings is primarily mediated by the blue-light receptor kinase phototropin 1 (phot1). Phot1-mediated curva...
www.frontiersin.org
Cheers.
I'm just n old stoner47
Active Member
using 24 watt 2ft T5-$ bulbs,, Black Gold for the soil for now,, n just keeping them ,, moist by just spraying n feeding just water for right now
mustbetribbin
Well-Known Member
Yes Sir/Madam, that sounds good as far as soil and watering goes, I'm a fan of using a spray bottle or water dropper from a tincture to water young seedlings, just a few drops too much can kill them, and watering this way give you control over that, so I agree with experiencing less issues with controlled slow forms of watering, such as indirect watering and so forth also.
However, the second question I was trying to help you figure out was the Kelvin listing on the bulbs you are using, I doubt you still have the packing for the T5's but you should still be able to check the bulbs somewhere on the outside usually right next to one of the electrodes it has the bulb information and specs listed for the user to read, each bulb manufacturer is required to list such specifications as far as watts, color cri & and color temperature in Kelvin units, usually rounded off to 100 for easy measurement, although I've seen such bulbs listed such as 2850k and such in the past. But yeah anyhow you might have to wait til the lights are off to check to see what color spectrum/Kelvin bulbs you have, that UV light can be bad for the ole eyesight and I don't recommend checking them while they are on, ha ha.
So yeah man/mam let me know when you find out which bulbs you are running and we can gather a more accurate understanding of what might be going on with your plants, and how to achieve better results with increased understanding of Kelvin temp/energy measurement and so forth.
However, the second question I was trying to help you figure out was the Kelvin listing on the bulbs you are using, I doubt you still have the packing for the T5's but you should still be able to check the bulbs somewhere on the outside usually right next to one of the electrodes it has the bulb information and specs listed for the user to read, each bulb manufacturer is required to list such specifications as far as watts, color cri & and color temperature in Kelvin units, usually rounded off to 100 for easy measurement, although I've seen such bulbs listed such as 2850k and such in the past. But yeah anyhow you might have to wait til the lights are off to check to see what color spectrum/Kelvin bulbs you have, that UV light can be bad for the ole eyesight and I don't recommend checking them while they are on, ha ha.
So yeah man/mam let me know when you find out which bulbs you are running and we can gather a more accurate understanding of what might be going on with your plants, and how to achieve better results with increased understanding of Kelvin temp/energy measurement and so forth.